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Aftermarket stereo in a stock BOSE system

chris77

Full Member
Joined
Jul 20, 2011
Messages
48
Location
Prairie du Sac, WI
Hi, I have been planning to upgrade my stock BOSE 6-Disc CD Changer to an aftermarket head unit, And I was wondering what all adapters I need to retain the following:
a) BOSE amp/Sub
b) steering wheel control
c) rear seat entertainment Controls
d) chimes
e) OnStar ( although not used, it's analog, but thought I read it needs to be connected anyway)

The things in general I think I need are:
a) RP5- GM11 ( BOSE, steering wheel control, Onstar)
b) SNI-1 (noise filters)(2)
c) BKGMK422 (dash kit)
d) SGGM1 (antenna adapter)

and there was something about a micro bypass for being able to use menus while driving, in a video I was watching- not sure what that was about.

Also, do I still need a general wiring harness or does the RP5-GM11 replace that?

The head unit has inputs for steering wheel controls.
anything I'm missing?
2003 Avalanche with factory BOSE (6-disc changer), O- nstar, rear seat entertainment, No xm.
Thank you.

BTW, the head unit im installing is the Car Dual XDVD276BT

Also, what is the difference between the RP5-GM11 and the RP5-GM31?
 
Are you sure you don't have XM Radio? If you have Onstar and two Antennae on the roof you likely have XMRadio.

The Antennae on the left side is for the Onstar and the one on the right would be for your XM Radio.

Do you have Rear Seat Entertainment (IE overhead screen) or Rear Seat Audio (Ie a controller at the back of the middle console)?

The Onstar function is totally worthless for you. Your just going to want to have support for the BOSE amplifier and the Steering Wheel controls. They should have the CHIME function regardless if they have the others. No point in spending extra for an option you can't use. (You originally could upgrade to the Digital version but I don't know of anyone doing that for years so I don't know if it is even an option. And Onstar is pretty useless in our older trucks.)

You may have to bypass the RSA in your system if your still using the BOSE amplifier. This can be done at the RSA plug. Basically just connecting the wires of the same colors. There will be a set of 4 twisted pair wires going into the RSA connector. You need to jumper the ones that are colored the same. The RSA module will cut off the rear channels and use them for its self or allow it to pass. Default mode is to cut them off. Basically when a rear seat passenger plugs in a set of headphones the rear channels are no longer played to the rear speakers and they can control what source they are using.

 
I'm pretty sure I don't have XM, only 1 antenna and nothing about XM on the deck. Yeah, even if onstar worked, I probably wouldn't use it, but I thought it had to be connected for every thing else to work. Maybe not. RSA isn't a must have, but if there was an option, I would have used it for my daughter. Thank you for the reply.
 
Since Onstar changed your truck hasn't been connected to Onstar so not connecting it shouldn't be an issue. The kits to add Onstar are only if you want to keep the capacity.

I haven't heard of trucks not having XM but having Onstar but doesn't mean it doesn't happen. Especially since you say you only have one Antennae.

You will lose the RSA. I have only heard of a couple people getting it to work and it has to be supported by the radio since it essentially is a second receiver.

Rodney
 
I just did my radio this weekend and used a PAC RP5-GM11 GM Class II radio interface with the a Sony XAV-AX5000 Digital Multimedia Receiver.

Came out really well and I like how the PAC is an all in one module and retains the steering wheel controls. Just be sure to read the updated online install instructions. I couldn't get the steering controls working right till I looked it up online. The PAC also retains the RSA controls but only if your new stereo supports dual zones.
 
Hey, those of you that were successful, did you have to use the "noise isolator/suppressor" in your install? I'm having a ton of noise with engine off, and on. Sub hums away, clicks and high pitched static with engine off, alternator whine (ground loop) while running. I'm wondering if my PAC RP4-GM11 is bad. Steering wheel controls don't work either.
 
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