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Alpine Speakers Type R Vs Type X?

Wvusquatch

SM 2003
Full Member
Joined
Sep 23, 2002
Messages
1,455
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Atlanta, Georgia (Alpharetta)
Well I have gotten in the past couple of days, a little closer to getting the POS ripped out of my Avalanche! I just recently got the Alpine 7998 Head unit, and got a matching alpine amp 60x4 + 120! The question that I now have is what speakers to go with the Alpine type R Compent set or the Type X set? I was of course going to put these in my front doors, have not decided one what to put in the rear doors! Any input would be great! I have never decked out a stero system in a vehiilce, so I want o make this one jam! Still looking fo the best Sub woofer solution! Leaning to a behind the rear seat config!

Wvusquatch
 
The X series is much higher quality. You can independently amplify each component.
 
Johnny said:
The X series is much higher quality. You can independently amplify each component.

Well I am really not looking ot place an amp on every speaker as there is no space for amps! I not looking to go out on the pro circuit or anything, I just want a great sounding system, that will make my head unit! Has anyone installed either of these two types?
 
My advice is for you to go to a dealer and listen to the X's vs the R's. The Type X sets are much more expensive than the R's. Just because they cost more, and are viewed as "better", does not mean that they will sound better to your ears. Would the extra expense be justified without knowing what you passed up to get them? I've always been amused when people at a show or contest who are listening to demo cars and competitors cars say to the owner, "Damn! You're car sounds incredible! What kind of speakers are they??" When the owner replies with an answer that is "lower end" than their own car's system, they get mad and wonder why their car doesn't sound that good or better. These are the ones who buy blindly without ever listening for themselves. I'd also add that the Type R's that I've heard sound great, and if you have no plans to compete, they should certainly make you smile when you listen to them.

As far as what type of speaker to get, that depends upon the desired mounting locations. If you plan to put them in the stock spots up front, a component set vs a coax will yield equal results. The coax will save you some cash as well.
 
DS said:
My advice is for you to go to a dealer and listen to the X's vs the R's. The Type X sets are much more expensive than the R's. Just because they cost more, and are viewed as "better", does not mean that they will sound better to your ears. Would the extra expense be justified without knowing what you passed up to get them? I've always been amused when people at a show or contest who are listening to demo cars and competitors cars say to the owner, "Damn! You're car sounds incredible! What kind of speakers are they??" When the owner replies with an answer that is "lower end" than their own car's system, they get mad and wonder why their car doesn't sound that good or better. These are the ones who buy blindly without ever listening for themselves. I'd also add that the Type R's that I've heard sound great, and if you have no plans to compete, they should certainly make you smile when you listen to them.

As far as what type of speaker to get, that depends upon the desired mounting locations. If you plan to put them in the stock spots up front, a component set vs a coax will yield equal results. The coax will save you some cash as well.



I am thinking about going with the componet set in the front and Coax in the rear doors! The problem that I have is I have yet to find a stereo store that has the type x's in! Again I think that it is a cost factor thing that they do not stock the higher end stuff! So that is why I was asking if anyone had either of these speakers, to see what they thought, before I spend a lot more time on the road to find someone with the Type X's!
 
DS said:
If you plan to put them in the stock spots up front, a component set vs a coax will yield equal results.

I have to disagree with you there. Granted the doors are not optimal placement, but saying coax will yeild the same results as components is just wrong in my opinion.
 
I'm with DS.
While I would agree that many coaxials are not great sounding, there are some that are exceptional.
I've installed a ton of systems, and I would say my Pioneer Rev coaxs with 100RMS each, sound as good as any components. The North East Ohio group can vouch on how clear & crisp my system is.

The reason the Revs are so good is because of the extennsive crossover & tweeter is not part of the midrange driver.

While these Alpines are great speakers, personally, I would not spend the extra money on them.
 
Put that way I would agree they are close. The eclipse point source are the same way. I assumed he meant a standard coax.
 
If money is not object, then go with the x-speakers. Why not get the best?

However, for most of us I think we let our budget decide. I happen to have Alpine X component speakers in my front doors, but only because the shop had them left over and sold them to me for the same price as the Infinity speakers I originally considered (which I personally liked more that some MB Quart's in the demo room that cost twice as much).

The only way to truly compare them is to listen to them installed in your rig. I'm sure you can tell the difference then. But that would be a lot of trouble and even then is the extra $$$ worth that difference you might hear?
 
I have posted on a thread about this topic in the past here regarding coax vs component speakers. I can prove to you without a doubt that a properly installed coax using the same drivers as its component set brother can easily outperform it in the vehicle.

Coaxes are usually looked down upon as being a lesser performing version of a component set, thanks to creative marketing and buyer and salespeoples misconceptions regarding sound reproduction and transducer engineering and design.

 
I know you don't mean it that way but it still sounds misleading. You are just using the word coax, a coax with a built in crossover is a different animal. I don't think most people will know that you mean something other than a simple coax.
 
I haven't seen a coax without a built in crossover, unless you are talking about those little "whizzer" cone speakers. I tried to make it clear that I meant an apples to apples comparison, sorry for any confusion.

On the coax vs separate topic, look at it from a positioning point of view alone and you'll see my point. Completely factor out any passive crossovers and assume the speakers are naturally rolling off out of their frequency ranges for a moment.

The term coaxial, broken down being "co", as in together, and "axial", as in an axis, refers to in our case two drivers whose output are on an identical axis. Obviously, the dispersion patterns of frequencies and drivers vary, due to wavelength, cone shape, the presence of "phase plugs" and so on, but the speakers are on top of each other and radiate energy along the same imaginary line. Therefore their output is almost identical in regards to its origination point in time, and the output of both drivers is identical in its physical location. This all equates to less phase problems, since the farther the distance from drivers, the higher probability that phase problems will arise to harm the systems imaging, and better point-source imaging, since adjacent output bands (as in mid and high freqs) are eminating from the same location.

Take a separate set now. Salespeople like to make various claims about them constantly "hitting harder since there ain't no tweeter in the woofers way", "imaging better since the tweeter can get stuck higher in the door or dash" and so on. As far as the louder midbass and midrange go, is that logical to think that the tiny tweeter is going to block that much of the larger drivers output? Not at all! When imaging heigth comes up, ask the salesman why humans have ears on the sides of their heads rather than the top and bottom. He'll have no idea what the hell you mean, but humans can easily localize the origin of left versus right, but not up versus down, thus shooting the "higher tweeter, higher stage" theory down totally. We know to look up when we hear a jet engine out of habit, since we associate that sound from our childhood with a flying machine, but not because we can tell the sound is above us, especially when you factor in reflected waves. Moving the drivers farther apart will also be likely to cause the abovementioned phase problems, which will smear your image across the soundstage. Why buy excellent speakers just to have them perform less than adequately? The install would be more on the components as well, which is yet another reason dealers love them.

Yes, separates in the hands of an installer who knows what to do with them can sound incredible. No, not every separated mid/tweeter has phase problems, and if they do the owner or installer may possibly understand this, have equipment to measure it, and compensate for it with processing. Ever noticed that the vast majority of winning competition cars put a mid and tweeter in the kick panels? This is to attempt to make the left and right side more equidistant to the driver's ears to aid in imaging. Notice how closely the mid and tweeter are in these cars? They are either as close as possible, or sometimes the tweeter is suspended above the mid, simulating a coaxial mount.

If you really absolutely have to have the Type X's, there are some on Ebay for insanely cheap prices: Type X auction

I honestly would tell you, if I were your installer, to spend your extra cash saved by buying the Type R's instead of the Type X's on having the doors made a more suitable enclosure for the mids. Using a damping material, like the well known Dynamat to help seal the doors will truly make a daylight and dark difference in the midbass area, especially. Check out a thread started by Sreidvt on this forum regarding the topic. He photo'd his work and put on up on his site, and I'll say that he did a job that any really good installer would be jealous of, so it is a good DIY project you may want to tackle before the install takes place.

A good 1/3 octave EQ. It would make more difference in the system than the speakers could ever accomplish. The X 6.5" set is $450.00, the R 6.5" set is $280 and coax is $200. That is a $170 to $250 savings depending on whether you went with the comps or coax, nearly offsetting the price of the EQ. A shop with at least an RTA (real time analyzer), can "see" the sonic dips and peaks and tune them out, or at least help the problems, and get a smooth, ear-friendly response from the system.
 
DS said:
I haven't seen a coax without a built in crossover, unless you are talking about those little "whizzer" cone speakers. I tried to make it clear that I meant an apples to apples comparison, sorry for any confusion.

On the coax vs separate topic, look at it from a positioning point of view alone and you'll see my point. Completely factor out any passive crossovers and assume the speakers are naturally rolling off out of their frequency ranges for a moment.

The term coaxial, broken down being "co", as in together, and "axial", as in an axis, refers to in our case two drivers whose output are on an identical axis. Obviously, the dispersion patterns of frequencies and drivers vary, due to wavelength, cone shape, the presence of "phase plugs" and so on, but the speakers are on top of each other and radiate energy along the same imaginary line. Therefore their output is almost identical in regards to its origination point in time, and the output of both drivers is identical in its physical location. This all equates to less phase problems, since the farther the distance from drivers, the higher probability that phase problems will arise to harm the systems imaging, and better point-source imaging, since adjacent output bands (as in mid and high freqs) are eminating from the same location.

Take a separate set now. Salespeople like to make various claims about them constantly "hitting harder since there ain't no tweeter in the woofers way", "imaging better since the tweeter can get stuck higher in the door or dash" and so on. As far as the louder midbass and midrange go, is that logical to think that the tiny tweeter is going to block that much of the larger drivers output? Not at all! When imaging heigth comes up, ask the salesman why humans have ears on the sides of their heads rather than the ?top and bottom. He'll have no idea what the hell you mean, but humans can easily localize the origin of left versus right, but not up versus down, thus shooting the "higher tweeter, higher stage" theory down totally. We know to look up when we hear a jet engine out of habit, since we associate that sound from our childhood with a flying machine, but not because we can tell the sound is above us, especially when you factor in reflected waves. Moving the drivers farther apart will also be likely to cause the abovementioned phase problems, which will smear your image across the soundstage. Why buy excellent speakers just to have them perform less than adequately? The install would be more on the components as well, which is yet another reason dealers love them.

Yes, separates in the hands of an installer who knows what to do with them can sound incredible. No, not every separated mid/tweeter has phase problems, and if they do the owner or installer may possibly understand this, have equipment to measure it, and compensate for it with processing. Ever noticed that the vast majority of winning competition cars put a mid and tweeter in the kick panels? This is to attempt to make the left and right side more equidistant to the driver's ears to aid in imaging. Notice how closely the mid and tweeter are in these cars? They are either as close as possible, or sometimes the tweeter is suspended above the mid, simulating a coaxial mount.

If you really absolutely have to have the Type X's, there are some on Ebay for insanely cheap prices: Type X auction

I honestly would tell you, if I were your installer, to spend your extra cash saved by buying the Type R's instead of the Type X's on having the doors made a more suitable enclosure for the mids. Using a damping material, like the well known Dynamat to help seal the doors will truly make a daylight and dark difference in the midbass area, especially. Check out a thread started by Sreidvt on this forum regarding the topic. He photo'd his work and put on up on his site, and I'll say that he did a job that any really good installer would be jealous of, so it is a good DIY project you may want to tackle before the install takes place.

A good 1/3 octave EQ. It would make more difference in the system than the speakers could ever accomplish. The X 6.5" set is $450.00, the R 6.5" set is $280 and coax is $200. That is a $170 to $250 savings depending on whether you went with the comps or coax, nearly offsetting the price of the EQ. ?A shop with at least an RTA (real time analyzer), can "see" the sonic dips and peaks and tune them out, or at least help the problems, and get a smooth, ear-friendly response from the system.

I have seen the type R's and Type X's on ebay at real cheap rates right now as most stores are moving there 2002 stock out! I am going to go with the Type R's Compents for the doors and coxial's for the rear door? Does this sound like a good set-up?
 
While I agree with most of your posts, I still don't think you are explaining this correctly.

DS said:
I can prove to you without a doubt that a properly installed coax using the same drivers as its component set brother can easily outperform it in the vehicle.

So could pretty much anyone, all you have then is a component set with the tweeter post mounted, which then makes it coax. The list of companies that use the same drivers and basket structure in the components sets and "coax" sets is very short. Most companies, including the one in question here use different drivers.

You haven't seen a "coax" without a crossover? C'mon...I know you aren't calling the capacitor a crossover. I also am certain that you know that in the majority of "coax" the mid bass driver is playing full range.

The only point I have been trying to make is that I am afraid some people on this board will read your posts on coax vs components and take it literally. That one of these guys is going to walk into Best Buy, buy a set of S series Alpine "coax" speakers and walk away thinking they have the equivalent of a component set. Apples to apples if fine, but the "apples" in the box on the self labeled "6.5 coaxial speaker" is not cut from the same apple.
 
Johnny,

Understand that I'm not trying to start an argument with you regarding the makeup of component sets. And yes, the little capicitor is a crossover in a coax; it is limiting the tweeters operating band. Of course the crossover section is different in a coax vs a component set, as the coax is more simple as you stated. What's wrong with that? The speakers' designers obviously created the mid driver to cover a certain frequency range with a roll off that works well with the tweeter. Remember that the most perfect and ideal situation for sound reproduction would be all frequencies coming from a single driver with no crossover networks or processing involved. Have you ever heard any of Martin Logan's speakers? They are a large electrostatic ribbon panel with a sub to help the low end out; they are just as simple in their output design as a coax or two way set. I've never seen or heard anyone gripe about them being lesser for not having multiple drivers in a 4 or 5 way tower design.

The point was to the original poster that if this is his first high performance system, and he doesn't plan to compete, that the Type R coaxes would certainly make him excessively happy ever time he hears them, would allow for a minimal install bill, and work well with his amp. If he was planning to compete, sure, I'd tell him to skip Alpine altogether and buy some Focals, Morels, Dyn's, Etons or so on, get separate amps for each range, buy some quality signal processing and so on and on and on.
 
If I appeared argumentative I'd like to apologize, that was not my intent.

You posses a lot of knowledge, that was never in question in my mind. I just didn't feel like you were explaining it fully.

You made my day with your last sentence. I had come to the conclusion that I was never going to say the word Morel again, so I wouldn't get a funny look, followed by the "they make them were again?"
 
Here's a pic of the back of the stock speakers vs the Pioneer REVs.
Notice the crossover.

I'm in no way bashing components. They are great sounding. I'm just stating that I beleive there are coaxials that are just as good.
 

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