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AOEM-GM24

L

Lancheman

Full Member
Joined
Mar 3, 2004
Messages
33
Location
Dallas Tx.
Has anyone put in a AOEM-GM24 to give you RCA connectors for aftermarket Amplifier's? If you did were there any quirks or tips to make a good install easy?
Let me know if you remember anything that came up.
 
I put one in for my amp. It was fairly straight forward although I had a heck of a time getting the connector out of the back of the head unit. Some people pulled the AC controls out and the head unit drops down and you can get access to it that way. My harness was snagged on something so I couldn't pull the HU out far enough to get access to the connector. I ended up going in through the air duct opening to the right of the HU to get the connector off. Once it came off I could move the wire harness around to get more slack. So it will pull out far enough if it isn't hung up on something. I spent allot of time tearing out stuff I didn't have to if it wasn't for that stupid harness.

When putting the adapter in, I would recommend wrapping it in some foam so it doesn't rattle against anything. I only used one of the RCA leads, but I ran the other one over toward the steering column for easier access when I add another amp.

I don't like the way they have you wire up the 12v turn on lead. It supplies 12v to the amp anytime the truck has any power at all. When I lock the doors the amp turns on for a few seconds then turns back off. If the dome lights come on so does the amp. It would be nice if it only supplied power when the HU is on. Other than that it works great.

Search on buy.com, I found it for $30.
Good luck
 
EddieTheHead said:
Some people pulled the AC controls out and the head unit drops down and you can get access to it that way.

I don't like the way they have you wire up the 12v turn on lead. It supplies 12v to the amp anytime the truck has any power at all. When I lock the doors the amp turns on for a few seconds then turns back off. If the dome lights come on so does the amp. It would be nice if it only supplied power when the HU is on. Other than that it works great.
Click to expand...

Taking out the AC controls worked for me..Still tight, but got to it. I also found it unusual that the amp powers up when doors are opened and glad its common to all and not a defect in mine.

Mike
 
looks like all 3 of us that posted about our PAC interface got negative Karma in the last 5 minutes. What moron would do that and why? I thought we were all a big AV family? What a bunch of crap, Im shutting mine off.
 
Cadboy, what do you mean receiving negative karma. But I do appreciate the the help. Maybe I'll call Logjam or PAC and ask if there is a way to not have the amp turning on all the time. Maybe connecting the blue wire to another switched source would help.
 
Hey Ya, whats up with the negative Karma. I had none before that post.

I thought about trying to put a volt meter on some of the other wires and see if I could get a better one but I'm sure PAC has us connecting to the best one already. I figured I would just live with it.
 
EddieTheHead said:
Hey Ya, whats up with the negative Karma. I had none before that post.

I thought about trying to put a volt meter on some of the other wires and see if I could get a better one but I'm sure PAC has us connecting to the best one already. I figured I would just live with it.
Click to expand...

Yeah people give out negative Karma for no reason. I got sick of it so went to "edit profile" to shut it off.

Yeah I decided to live with it to. It seems to shut down within a minute of locking the truck so no big deal. It might power up when door is opened but I am probably going to turn it on anyway so no harm done.

Mike
 
No i had the aoem-gm24, and had some issues with it, on the hooking up the 12v connection.

What wire did you guys use? I have an 03 so i had to get one and used the large brown acc wire in the steering column. But the GM24 box didn't like it at all, and i let the magic out (sorry old electrical class explination for making it smoke). My plans have been put on hold till i resolve the issue, so was wondering what wire you guys hooked up to for the power.

Thanks, matt.
 
03NHAVY said:
No i had the aoem-gm24, and had some issues with it, on the hooking up the 12v connection.

What wire did you guys use? I have an 03 so i had to get one and used the large brown acc wire in the steering column. But the GM24 box didn't like it at all, and i let the magic out (sorry old electrical class explination for making it smoke). My plans have been put on hold till i resolve the issue, so was wondering what wire you guys hooked up to for the power.

Thanks, matt.
Click to expand...

It was Pin 3, Don't remember if it was A or B but I believe it was the Pink wire.

One thing I just noticed today and need to investigate more. I have the rear entertainment console and someone accidentally turned it on today and my sub woofers started getting so much feedback I thought they were going to blow. I had the volume on the radio almost off and it was still so loud that it scared the crap out of me and every one in the AV. I have the sub amp connected to the rear set of RCAs so I thought if the rear console was turned on it should cut out the rear speakers. The adapter is obviously doing something strange. I may have to disconnect the rear console or the kids may blow up my subs.
 
Eddie -

I had a similar problem with my AOEM-GM24 (I don't have rear entertainment controls tho). It describes in the schematic/directions that the rear RCAs will output rear entertainment audio when it is turned on. That's where the surprise came from. Also, there are 4 little set screws that correspond to each RCA-out channel on the edge of the "black box." Those control the level of the output. I noticed the first time I hooked mine up that the spkrs and sub were ridiculously loud. I just turned down those level adjusters (pretty much all the way) and that brought the volume back to normal. Hopefully that would work for you, too. Best o' luck.
 
Eddie,
I was planing on adding this AOEM adapter to add a sub, but I was going to put a EQ in to control the levels (when wife is in truck, turn bass down, just me = more bass). I have a 03 with rear audio, and I am now concerned (even though its never used I like things fully functioning) about this feedback. Did you resolve that feedback loop? Do you think adding the EQ to control the amp / sub will help reduce that problem?

Thanks, and I am new the whole aftermarket audio area. BTW I am keeping my GM HU as I like it (6CD, XM, onstar, works for me :))

Thanks.
 
Amp turn on: Pink wire on Head Unit C1 Row B, #3

Confirm it with a voltmeter!
 
03Lanche said:
Eddie,
I was planing on adding this AOEM adapter to add a sub, but I was going to put a EQ in to control the levels (when wife is in truck, turn bass down, just me = more bass). I have a 03 with rear audio, and I am now concerned (even though its never used I like things fully functioning) about this feedback. Did you resolve that feedback loop? Do you think adding the EQ to control the amp / sub will help reduce that problem?

Thanks, and I am new the whole aftermarket audio area. BTW I am keeping my GM HU as I like it (6CD, XM, onstar, works for me :))

Thanks.
Click to expand...

I haven't fixed the problem with the feedback yet. I don't think the EQ would help it at all. I can have the front and rear volume turned all the way down and as soon as you hit the power on the rear controls the subs sound like they will blow. I never use the rear controls so I was just going to disconnect them. I'm eventually going to put a Pioneer AVIC-N1 head unit in anyway which will disable it.

Instead of an EQ why not put a remote bass control knob in the dash. The JL 500.1 can have a remote to turn the bass boost up if you want more. I mounted mine next to the traction control button.

 

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EddieTheHead said:
I haven't fixed the problem with the feedback yet. I don't think the EQ would help it at all. I can have the front and rear volume turned all the way down and as soon as you hit the power on the rear controls the subs sound like they will blow. I never use the rear controls so I was just going to disconnect them. I'm eventually going to put a Pioneer AVIC-N1 head unit in anyway which will disable it.

Instead of an EQ why not put a remote bass control knob in the dash. The JL 500.1 can have a remote to turn the bass boost up if you want more. I mounted mine next to the traction control button.
Click to expand...

Bummer on not fixing that yet.. hopefully someone will come up with something as I do use it sometimes... not a big deal though.

As for the bass control knob, I love that idea. I had no idea that was around, I just remember a friends system that had a EQ with sub control so thats why I was thinking that. Thanks for pointing that out, and nice place to put it. I dont have T/C as I have a Z71, but I could find a location.

Holy monkey, the JL amp is a little out my price range... I have a cap of $500 for this whole mod (sub /box /amp /wires), and ebay on this amp is looking to be $300. Can this control know be done on other amps? I have a friend with a few amps from his old system he might sell me cheap, all Soundstream Reference models (1000, 700, 604, littlewonder). I was thinking the 700, even thought its 2 channel I think and I am thinking about a Blau Overdrive 1000 (10" sub with 2.2" depth). The same friend has all 1 gauge wire in his Caddy from the same old system he might let go off, little large for my load level but if its cheap...
 
I have seen the remote on Rockford Fosgate amps, Check out the Punch 3001. There are probably a few others that have them.
 
Eddie,
I think I know why you are getting all the feeback. I found this quote on PAC site:
Note: Just like factory stereo system, the warning chimes will play through front left RCA output of interface. Turning on rear entertainment controls will make rear outputs of interface play second audio source.
Click to expand...
http://www.pac-audio.com/oem1kits/aoemresults.cfm?aoemSearch=GM&Submit=Search+for+AOEM

I think you might have plugged into the rear outputs, maybe? Maybe I should read the whole thing. Plug into the front left audio to get ONLY audio signal. Front right does door chime, and both rear gives the rear audio controller.

I am ordering mine soon and I think I have my solution mapped out, tomorrow a friend and I are messuring to make the boxes. :)
 
So i tried hookin up my AOEM-GM24 using the pink wire, thought the one you guys were talking about, and i got nothing, i did check it with a voltmeter. I have to order a new one because when we tried hooking it up to the acc we smoked it. Not so fun.

Oh is everyone have an 03, WBH, don't know if there would be a difference, but asking.

Matt
 
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