Avalanche 1500 transmission pan removal

[jimf44]

Any advice on dealing with the bracket that holds the lines in place that run along side the transmission pan. The mechanics manual says to remove the two bols/screws that hold the bracket in place. Does anyone know the type and size of the bolt? It appears to be a 8mm. This process
is difficult due to location and rusted in bolts. Can the bracket be safely bent away from the pan (about 1/2 inch or so) to allow the pan to clear the bracket and line?

 

[big_green]

Well this is scary jimf44 has only made one post and no one has responded, and I thought I was a post killer.

Are there any hidden secrets to changing transmission filter and fluid? I remember on my 95? Sportside I had to remove a cross member.

Any help would be appreciated before I start the screaming from under the AV.

Greg

 

[timfarn]

I did mine last summer with a TOC.  I believe the bolts were 10mm, like the pan.  There are two different styles of filter kits - shallow pan and deep pan, at least on the '02s.  The deep pan can be identified by a stepped bottom.

 

[disneydaddy]

The bracket can be carefully persuaded out of position in order to drop the pan. Whoever designed the fasteners for that bracket should be flogged. They are steel button head socket cap screws that thread into an aluminum housing. Anyone who has lived in the rust belt and is familiar with disimilar metals knows how corroded this setup becomes. I doubt that the screws would even come out without dropping the trans for acces, and even then it would take a liberal dousing of PB blaster over a couple of days to free them.

 

[sperry]

Here's the GM Instructions: 4L60 (Escalade/EXT:4L65e) Bear with the image placement, They're ok in the text but the new board may not yet position them properly.

Document ID# 825141​

 
Automatic Transmission Fluid/Filter Replacement

Removal Procedure

Caution: When the transmission is at operating temperatures, take necessary precautions when removing the drain plug, to avoid being burned by draining fluid.

  1. Raise and suitably support the vehicle. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle in General Information.
  2. Place a drain pan under the transmission oil pan.
  3. Remove the oil pan drain plug, if equipped.
  4. If necessary, remove the bolts and position aside the range selector cable bracket for clearance while lowering the pan. It is not necessary to remove the cable from the lever or bracket.
  5. Remove the oil pan bolts from the front and sides of the pan only.
  6. Loosen the rear oil pan bolts approximately 4 turns.
  7. Lightly tap the oil pan with a rubber mallet in order to loosen the pan to allow the fluid to drain.

  8. Remove the remaining oil pan bolts.

 

[sperry]

Pic 3 13955

  9. Remove the oil pan and the gasket.

  10. Grasp firmly while pulling down with a twisting motion in order to remove the filter.

  11. Remove and discard the filter seal. The filter seal may be stuck in the pump; if necessary, carefully use pliers or another suitable tool to remove the seal.
  12. Inspect the fluid color.
  13. Inspect the filter. Pry the metal crimping away from the top of the filter and pull apart. The filter may contain the following evidence for root cause diagnosis:
        ? Clutch material
        ? Bronze slivers indicating bushing wear
        ? Steel particles
  14. Clean the transmission case and the oil pan gasket surfaces with solvent, and air dry. You must remove all traces of the old gasket material.

 

[sperry]

Installation Procedure

  1. Coat the NEW filter seal with automatic transmission fluid.
  2. Install the NEW filter seal into the transmission case. Tap the seal into place using a suitable size socket.
  3. Install the NEW filter.

  4. Install the oil pan and NEW gasket.

    Notice: Use the correct fastener in the correct location. Replacement fasteners must be the correct part number for that application. Fasteners requiring replacement or fasteners requiring the use of thread locking compound or sealant are identified in the service procedure. Do not use paints, lubricants, or corrosion inhibitors on fasteners or fastener joint surfaces unless specified. These coatings affect fastener torque and joint clamping force and may damage the fastener. Use the correct tightening sequence and specifications when installing fasteners in order to avoid damage to parts and systems.

  5. Install the oil pan bolts.

Tighten
      Tighten the bolts alternately and evenly to 11 N?m (97 lb in).
  6. If previously removed, install the range selector cable bracket and bolts.

Tighten
      Tighten the bolts to 25 N?m (18 lb ft).
  7. Apply a small amount of sealant GM P/N 12346004 (Canadian P/N 10953480), or equivalent to the threads of the oil pan drain plug, if equipped.
  8. Install the oil pan drain plug, if equipped.

Tighten
      Tighten the plug to 18 N?m (13 lb ft).
  9. Lower the vehicle.
  10. Fill the transmission to the proper level with DEXRON? III transmission fluid. Refer to Transmission Fluid Checking Procedure and Fluid Capacity Specifications .
  11. Check the COLD fluid level reading for initial fill only.
  12. Inspect the oil pan gasket for leaks.

Document ID# 825141​

Edit: metastring errors.

 

[Snoball]

Thanks Sperry! That is why I love this forum so much. Since there are no Chilton manuals for these things yet, it is nice to have someone that has access to the GM manuals to help us out!

 

[sperry]

If I have the time and resources! No prob!

 

[atikovi]

I just did it today so here are some observations. The shifter bracket bolts are T40 torx but I gave up on trying to remove them because there is no way to keep the torx bit straight in the bolt when trying to unscrew it with a socket wrench, you may end up striping the head of the bolt. I just bent the bracket out of the way with a 4 inch C clamp, one end on the bracket, the screw end against the front driveshaft, bending until the bracket touches the driveshaft.  Next, remove the right converter heat shield held on by 2 bolts. Then after you drain the pan, remove the pan bolts and break free the pan from the transmission it will look like the bracket is still in the way of removing the pan (not to mention the exhaust crossover pipe). That?s why you remove the heat shield. You can now twist the pan in the direction of where the heat shield was and it will clear the bracket. After that it?s straight forward except for the filter seal. I couldn?t find any way of removing it without a special GM tool. There is no way to pry it out (at least not without risk of damaging the soft aluminum surrounding it) so I just left the old one in there. Since these trucks are 2 to 3 years old max, I don?t think this seal would be deteriorated enough to cause a problem if it wasn?t replaced. I bet most independent repair shops don?t replace them either if they don?t have the correct tool.

 

[Mdz66]

The 2wd models are much easier, no front driveshaft to get in the way.  I did my Av in less than an hour and my buddy's Silverado took almost two hours.  Drain plugs in both were very tight.  I put a little anti-sieze on the two torx-head bolts for the next time.  Pans on both were very clean magnet pads had a little crap on them.  My Av had 36k and the Silverado had 50k.

 

[bobinmo]

What a great site. A friend showed it to me a couple of weeks ago and I sure have been learning a lot. Thanks to all of you for sharing your knowledge and experience.

I'm coming up on 50K miles and was wondering if there is a way to flush the transmission out yourself. I thought I read somewhere that someone had used the transmission lines running to the radiator. Is that possible? What do you guys think?

 

[DarkGreyNorthFace]

Hey Guys, funny thing i saw this thread today.  I was on the driveway cold, and bathed in dexron III and dried mudd until 11pm last night.  Things I learned should be of great assistance dealing with above problems, and questions.  If I had to do it all over again, it would take an hour tops with a second set of hands, now that I got it all figured out. 

Remove the heat shield on passenger side, held on by two bolts
Drain as much as possible using drain bolt
Next remove the shifter linkage from the bracket that is in everyones way (no need to remove that impossible bracket with rusted torx screws) - this removes by pulling metal clip out, prying off the ball joint thing in the front(pivot point) and then sliding the part in the bracket back as you pinch it together where the clip was.
As posted obove the C-clamp to the driveshaft will pull the bracket out of your way, I noticed he didnt mention removing the linkage, i had to myself.  I didnt use a c-clamp, just a second set of hand with a large pair of channel locks.  No worrys, whis did not permenently bend the beacket at all.
Now you should be able to wiggle the pan out, I however still had not enough room so :
Unbolt the back of the transmission from the crossmember and you can use a jack & wood block to lift it up a little bit more to get the clearence from the exhaust pipe, and finally get the pan out.
Also I bought my filter set a Napa, comes with a VERY nice rubber gasket.
I used contact spray on the rubber gasket to stick it to the transmission seating surface to ensure easy alignment on replacing pan

And to the last poster about flushing it ourselves, I would say to buy a couple gallons of cheap transmission fluid and just drain the 2 or so quarts at a time from the drain bolt and replace it, then drive around 10 minutes and do again and again until clean.  Then replace filter as described abouve and use your good fluid

Also i strongly recommend prolong, great for wear.

 

[ebby69k]

I did mine last summer with a TOC.? I believe the bolts were 10mm, like the pan.? There are two different styles of filter kits - shallow pan and deep pan, at least on the '02s.? The deep pan can be identified by a stepped bottom.

I am getting ready to do mine. Went to get a kit and of course deep or shallow. So the shallow pan is flat on the bottom and the deep has a step? Mine is a 02 also.

 

[frule]

Decided to do the drain fluid through drain plug(2002 with only 30,000).Drain,measure,replace same amount.Repeat 3-4 times.
The drain plug took a 15mm (6 point to avoid stripping it) socket.I finally had to use an impact wrench to loosen the drainplug(also had to use impact on lug nuts after last tire rotation.....geez).

 

[ebby69k]

How much drained from just the plug? Is yours a short or tall pan?

 

[frule]

Mine is an '02 with the drainplug(stepped pan-so I guess it's the deeper one).About 3 qts. drained through the plug(once it was loosened with the impact wrench).I measured the amount in the bucket and put the same amount back in.Repeat,Repeat,Repeat,until I did it enough for a case of 12 qts of new fluid.I figure this got me 70% new fluid for $16.00 for the Havoline ATF.

 

[rcornwell1]

I read through this but didn't see a part number for the Transmission filter.  I have an 1500, 02' with a flat pan.  Lots of good info here now I need to buy a filter and get on with it.  Thanks

Bob

 

[hkopp]

On my 02 2wd I pulled the pan and let it drain for an hour or so while I fought with the stuck drain plug.  It took 7 qts after driving it.  I also didnt have to remove the bracket bolts, I just losenned them half way and the bracket moved off to the side enough.  No removing cable or the heat panel.

To remove my stuck plug I heated it with a rosebud torch (once the pan was off) and was able to turn it out with channel locks.  Here are the part numbers you need if you want to buy a replacement prior to draining all of your oil out of your ride to the store.    Chevy #24233099, list price is $6.46.  Or a Dorman plug from your local hw store: Dorman # 65212.  Bolt is 12mm x 1.75 course thread. Hope this helps someone in the future.