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BlueDevil's Vortech SuperCharger Installation Complete

Congrats Mick!  (y)  I knew that you could do it.


I know what you mean about being tight getting a drill to the oil pan.  I forgot to tell you that I borrowed a air powered angle drill to do mine.

 
KY_BOB said:
Congrats Mick!? (y)? I knew that you could do it.


I know what you mean about being tight getting a drill to the oil pan.? I forgot to tell you that I borrowed a air powered angle drill to do mine.

I have an Angle driver for my cordless, very handy tool to have around... Have used it twice on my AV in the past 2 weeks... >:D
 
im having too much fun with this thing that i forgot to post this.

after i tuned with the predator, "check engine" light came on. i looked up the code and it is p0135 (02 sensor).

i dont think i hit it or damaged it while working under the av. i tried to deleted but it came back on.

any ideas?
 
I am getting the same thing.
But in my case it is from the Long tube headers.
It has something to do with the Temp of the Exhaust Change between the Upper and lower O2 sensor.

There are O2 Sims that you can getAnd with a PC based Programmer you can Actually turn off the lower sensor (no more error code) So I am told?
 
SRFNSNO said:
I am getting the same thing.
But in my case it is from the Long tube headers.
It has something to do with the Temp of the Exhaust Change between the Upper and lower O2 sensor.

There are O2 Sims that you can getAnd with a PC based Programmer you can Actually turn off the lower sensor (no more error code) So I am told?
I saw where the manufacturer of the O2 sims was getting fined and having to do a mandatory recall on them because it was allowing folks to run cat free and pass emissions (unless it was probed).... or something like that.  If you want them, better hurry.
 
I  know with HP Tuners you can turn off the rear O2's Error Codes and tell the PCM not to save the error codes in history either. You don't need O2 Sims to that...

Thats what is done to mine...
 
Hold on guys. ?That code is for Bank one sensor 1. ?It has to have the front ones to run.


If it were a problem with one of the rear sensors I would just say turn it off. ?Also, there is no reason to ever buy a O2 sim if you have HPT. ?It's a 2 minute job to disable the code for them.

 
KY_BOB said:
Congrats Mick!? (y)? I knew that you could do it.


I know what you mean about being tight getting a drill to the oil pan.? I forgot to tell you that I borrowed a air powered angle drill to do mine.

Oh thanx Bob. Dont hold any secrets now. Anything else i should now?  :laugh:


...and the P0135 code.... im going to save the predator tune in HPT,change back to stock,put away the predator,load the predator tune using HPT and change the parameters if needed and try to log the event and also try to erase the code with HPT.  \\

Does this make sense?    :rolleyes:  ...... i didnt have the "check engine" ON before the S/C install.  It came on after.  I wonder if Predator is being in the safe side.  Too lean Too rich who knows ???

 
To be more specific, it's the heater circuit.

Switch it with another O2 to see if the code follows it.  If so, replace sensor.  Also check the wiring leading to this sensor.
 
BD, I have been re-reading this thread. Lot of good pics and installation help in there. I am still dreaming of my day. I hope by the spring I can start picking up pieces that I need. I think I might buy HPT before hand and learn some tuning stuff, first. I am also debating doing a header swap then, too. I know you are enjoying the heck out of that thing. And of course you got some good tech help from the guys here (y)
 
DougD said:
To be more specific, it's the heater circuit.

Switch it with another O2 to see if the code follows it.? If so, replace sensor.? Also check the wiring leading to this sensor.

Yea, that's the code.  I should have given a more complete answer yesterday but it I was pretty busy with work at the time.

Our O2 sensors have heaters built into them to get them up to operating temperature more quickly than the exhaust would alone.

That code indicates that it is taking longer to come online (start oscillating) than it should.  I don't see any connection to the supercharger other than it could have been damaged or had it's plug damaged during the install.

It is for the bank one/ sensor one O2 which it the one in front of the cat on the driver side.  This also happens to be the side that you had to drill and tap the pan on.  That may be a coincidence but I think I would check the plug.

 
Or, like DougD indicated, switch the front O2 sensors from driver to passenger and vice-versa. If the code travels with the sensor, you know it's bad.

Like Bob said, make sure the connection is good (I don't know if you had to unhook the sensor while you were under there). I had to replace a rear O2 sensor when I replaced the y-pipe recently due to a bad driver's side cat. The shop that did the exhaust work to hook up to my TOG headers forgot to hook the connector up. It took about 20 miles of driving before the SES light came on. I plugged it in, reset the SES light, and have been fine since.
 
I will check the plugs this weekend when i get home.  Weird....i can almost say i didnt damaged it while under the AV.  My guess is.....what if while replacing the injectors.  Isnt those sensor wires going up that way?  NOt sure until Saturday morning.
 
Anybody still on this thread? I recently bought a V1 charger for my truck and am going to piece together the kit for my truck so I have a few questions. Pulley size, belt size, ect. Any help is greatly appreciated
 
KY_Bob sold his truck and Vortech SC to me.  I've put it on a different AV so I'm a bit knowledgeable about install, etc.  I can try to answer your questions.  MyBigToy is active although he's running a Maggie...
 
Well I was just wondering what size pulley is being run on these kits and how much boost its making on that pulley. Also wondered if I could get a belt part number. And anybody know what size injectors ill need??
 
I'm currently running the "standard" pulley that vortech used in the truck kits, I believe it is 3.33".  I've also got a smaller one that if I remember correctly is marked as 3.18".  I need to double-check those.  I'm seeing up to about 11 pounds of boost with the one I'm running now but that is up at around 6600 rpm or more.  Truck made 377 rwhp a couple of months ago at around 6000 rpm with very little drop off all the way to over 6700 - should be around 470 at the crank.  Running a 212/228 at 0.050 cam with 116 LSA and LS7 lifters, both of which help make the engine rev happy, even though it's got over 280,000 miles.

I'm running marine 8.1 injectors rated I believe at 40#.  Also running the smaller Vortech booster pump as well as water-methanol injection.  Even with the booster pump and water-meth it is still fueling limited - I'm seeing the fuel pressure start to drop off before hitting 6000 rpm but have the MAF calibration set to adjust for that but still maxxing out the fuel injectors.  Seeing AFR get up to about 13.1 when shifting at WOT.  I need to either get a bigger fuel booster pump or a pump voltage booster.  An intercooler is also on the need to do list but that will come after getting more fuel into the engine.  Smaller pulley is also on hold pending fueling upgrade.

I'll see if I can spot a part number on my belt this evening.  However you can get some ideas quicker by downloading the install manual at:
http://www.vortechsuperchargers.com/page.php?id=33198

 
Cool deal!. Thanks for the help. Your fuel system returnless? And man im a fully cert gm mechanic but im new to the bolt on supercharger world. I know some basic things but not a lot for sure. That said this may be a dumb question. Does a BOV take the place of a by-pass valve if you choose to? Another question that may be dumb lol...im going to run a meth inj also.  I understand how it all works and can be boost referenced and stuff but which side of the charger do you install that on? Thanks again
 
You're very welcome and welcome to the forum.  We can always use more certified mechanics around here to give pointers to those of us that are weekend wrenchers such as myself.

First, I checked my pulley this morning before leaving for work, it is the 3.25" one, not the 3.33" that I mentioned previously.

As far as the Blow off Valve (BOV) versus the bypass valve in my mind the main difference in application is mainly going to be in situations where you have some engine braking - in 4th gear and in the other gears when other than D is selected.  (Overrun clutch is only applied in 4th when in D but is applied in other gears when a lower range is selected.)  In this situation you've got at least a fair amount of rpms but very little air going through the throttle body.  If you have a BOV it is going to be blowing the extra air from the sc into the atmosphere whereas the bypass valve is blowing it back to the intake side of the sc but downstream from the MAF.  The MAF is the critical item here as with the BOV it is reading the air going into the engine plus what is blowing into the atmosphere, with the bypass valve it is reading what is going into the engine, (although there will be some transient error which will be pretty well accounted for by the short term fuel trims).  With the BOV the MAF is going to be reading high and the long term fuel trims for the mid and high rpm but low manifold pressure fuel trim cell are going to be driven to large negative values.  I'm not sure though if that is a problem - I've never tried to tune an non-bypass valve engine.  Thanks to the segmentation of the fuel trim cells it may be a non-issue for the most part.

As far as the meth, it is usually best to run it between the sc and throttle body.  The meth can be a bit unfriendly to some parts so no need to get it into the sc, and it is at least as effective in cooling the intake charge when sprayed downstream as well.
 
Oh - forget to address your first question - no, I have a return line from the fuel regulator sitting on the driver's side fuel rail.
 
Thanks.  Am I going to have a problem with my system being returnless? Mines an 04 and dont have return system. I was planning on running the electronic boost a pump. Whats the thoughts on that?
 
I would think with a boost a pump you are going to need a return line from a standalone pressure regulator.  In that case you are most likely going to need to drop the tank, and in that case you may want to replace the in-tank pump instead of adding the boost a pump.
 
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