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Broken tailgate handle part

im gonna try it but i would like to look for a replacement if possible,i dont think the pb blaster will resolve it from the way it looks.
 
Well my handle broke today or something , it has been acting funny for quite awhile. It feels like the key doesn't turn all the way to unlock as the tailgate as it is closed and was locked.

:(
 
When I replaced my tailgate handle assembly, I noticed the moving parts on the old one were significantly rusted, which was making it difficult to both lock and unlock when turning the key.  When I installed the new handle assembly, I liberally greased all the moving parts.  No problem since.

Quick fix: remove the plastic bezel, spray the moving parts with PB Blaster, then wipe the rust off and wipe dry.  Follow up with greasing the moving parts.  White or lithium grease will work just fine.

Prior to installing the bezel, to ensure the key latch (or tang) and lock mechanism are both in the same position (both in lock or in unlock).

Regard, Joe

 
Dads04Z71 said:
When I replaced my tailgate handle assembly, I noticed the moving parts on the old one were significantly rusted, which was making it difficult to both lock and unlock when turning the key.  When I installed the new handle assembly, I liberally greased all the moving parts.  No problem since.

Quick fix: remove the plastic bezel, spray the moving parts with PB Blaster, then wipe the rust off and wipe dry.  Follow up with greasing the moving parts.  White or lithium grease will work just fine.

Prior to installing the bezel, to ensure the key latch (or tang) and lock mechanism are both in the same position (both in lock or in unlock).

Regard, Joe

do you one with keyhole?or you dont lock it at all now that you replaced it?
 
My replaced tailgate assembly works like the factory original.  It can be locked and unlocked with the key.

I ordered a new handle assembly from Rockauto.  For the Avalanche it is the type that locks or unlocks when the key is turned.  Fairly straight forward removal and installation.  Read this thread from the 1st post for lots of tips on removing and installing it.  Also be signed in so you can see the photos. 

The easiest way and perhaps the only way to fix a broken tailgate handle is to replace the entire tailgate handle assembly. 

If the handle is not broken, but the key is difficult or hard to turn, remove the bezel as I described earlier and lubricate the moving parts of the lock assembly.  It is not the cylinder where the key is inserted that is giving you the problem.

Regards, Joe
 
is this the right part?  http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=1322843

It sure looks like the right one.  So long as you entered the correct year of your A/V you should be all set.
 
A BIT OF ADVICE....SLATHER THAT NEW ONE WITH GREASE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!...I just did mine,,,and the only reason I can see that it broke was becasue of weather and rust.  So I put water proof grease (Blue Grease) on all the moving parts and hinge points...I bet I will never have this issue again.


Ed
 
my handle broke and i replaced it, but it still isn't working correctly. im able to use the handle to open the tailgate but i cant do it without holding down the big C to the right of the handle where the key goes. and it wont snap back into place every time i use it.
 
Hard to say, but you could have the pull rods adjusted wrong...maybe try to reposition them.  I made sure the pull mechanism was at the begining of the throw then snapped them on...if you get too aggressive I could see you having a closing problem...  If its a new unit it should work,,,by the way...again...grease, grease, grease...!!! lol
 
me and my bro-inlaw did it this afternoon..we had to take off the plastic part on top of the tailgate..now its working great!!! i spent 19bux for the part and 15bux on 3m tape!thanks guys!
 
I ordered a Dorman replacement handle for around $50.  There were some cheaper options available but was afraid quality might not be that good.  Does anyone have experience with Dorman and is it good quality?  Thanks in advance.  Posts here are extremely helpful. 
 
mine was  the  cheapo one but it looks like the dorman brand ..mine was heavy i thought its gonna be made of a  cheap plastic..since the dorman is more $$ it  prolly  last longer.
 
Having replaced mine a couple years ago I recently had a problem with the cheap plastic snap type nuts coming apart.  It just would not stay closed and although the threaded bar was not coming loose it was only time until that happened.  I had snapped it shut a couple of times, making sure that the tab was catching and SUPPOSED to be keeping it closed.  After a few months I am now confident that my repair is working perfect and I am not suspecting any more problems related to the cheap plastic snap type nuts.  I mixed up some JB Weld (first time ever using the stuff) placed a small amount on both halves of the snap things, placed a little along the threaded rod, reassembled them, and snapped the things back together.  I then used a small screwdriver to work in a layer of JB Weld over the snap things and getting just enough onto the threaded rod to convince me it would not pull apart.  It has been a few months, including 110+ summer days, rain, and regular use, and I have had no problems with them coming apart.

Just thought I would share.  I am definitely not fond of those snap things and I needed something permanent to ensure we could get a stroller or groceries out when needed.
 
Dads04Z71 said:
I had hoped the removal and installation of the tailgate handle assembly would be easy, based on many of the posts I read on this forum.  It was not to be.

After I removed the 3 screws holding the handle assembly in place and releasing the two cables, no amount of maneuvering, fiddling, tugging or pulling would allow the assembly to come out of its "nest".  I came upstairs and reread some of the posts and one suggested removing the inner tailgate skin, another said to remove the tailgate top trim (spoiler) which is held on by 3M two way tape.

Neither sounded appealing so my solution, for those of you who run into the same problem, was to cut out a small piece of the plastic directly in front of the latch assembly.  I used a Dremel (rotary) tool with a small cutting disk and sliced off about 3/4" of plastic.  Only took a few seconds and then the old assembly came out easily and the new one went right in.  Photo below taken after the cut and old latch removed.  Arrows show where the cut was made.  The missing plastic is way up behind the handle and is not visible in any way.

I had to do this same cut...I believe there must be several differant design tailgates or more people would run into this same problem. There was NO WAY it was going to come out without cutting off an inch of this flap of fiberglass. (Or prying off the plastic tailgate lip) Once cut, mine also went on easy and cannot be seen. Also, I found my complete replacement latch that looks IDENTICAL to Chevy's for $24 delivered on Ebay!
 
Since I slathered my new one with grease I have had no problems...even in the 15 degree cold snap we had here, she opens effortlessly.  I don't think they put a lick of grease on the mechanism from the factory.
 

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Sorry about the pic the first one I found. Can?t remember what I paid for this, was one of my first mods. Tried searching could not find price for this model the prices for Grippin Billet is all over the place. I purchased mine at.
http://www.avalancheandaccessories.com/cart/
You might contact them Larry helped me a lot with getting this handle. Had problems with Grippin getting the order right as you can see it all worked out.  

http://www.grippinbillet.com/
 
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