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CHECK THOSE  NUT's !!!

dmacker

SM 2003
Full Member
Joined
Aug 4, 2002
Messages
1,692
Location
Youngstown, Ohio
While installing the moulded mud guards it was necessary to remove the rear tires. I attempted to remove the lug nuts with the AV lug nut wrench. I only succeded in rounding off one of the lugs. Next I tried to loosen them with a 3/4 inch ratchet and socket. No luck.

I ended up with a breaker bar and finally was able to loosen the lugs. The recommended torque is 110 lbs for the lug nuts. These were nearly welded on and the vehicle only has 500 miles on it.

On the road with a flat tire or worse off the road, is no place to learn that your lug bolts were factory torqued at 200 lbs.

Anybody else had this problem?
 
YES!!! I almost gave up trying to take the back tires off when I did the mudflaps too. I finally just got pissed off and put everything I had into it. They were TIGHT!!!

I feel sorry for someone who hasn't changed a tire before, trying to change the AV on the side of the road.

I also dont like the whole fake lug nut thing we have going on.
 
i really didn't have any problem... then again i am a big guy and was pretty pissed of at the whole waking up to a flat tire situation.
 
I too removed the rear tires when mounting the rear mud flaps.

Although I used an air impact wrench, I do not remember having to adjust the wrench to a higher setting to remove the lug nuts.

Just a guess, but I'm trying to rememeber if there was any powder residue or color on the studs. If so, it could have had some sort of thread lock applied at the factory.

Malcolm
 
I had no problems with removing my lug nuts.....

As always whenever I get the tires mounted or new car or where ever someone else touches the lug nuts I always go back and check them with the stock tire iron for the reason I do not wanna find out about it in the dark while it is raining on the side of the road.
 
what ygmn said. If you have ever changed a wheel previously mounted by someone wielding an air wrench (factory or shop) you almost certainly have already encountered this phenomenon.

Having personally dismounted my stockers on all four corners and mounted my current wheels, I can attest to this being the case with my Av too. (As it was with my 1976 Plymouth Arrow, as it was with my 1978 Toyota Celica, as it was with my 1980 Chevy LUV, as it was with my 1993 Nissan Pathfinder they are all guilty of "factory-super-torque")
 
Lug nuts should be torqued from the factory to 140lbs. per the owners manual. When I put my new wheels and tires on I used my torque wrench to check torque on the stockers. They were all right around 140 lbs.
 
I thought you were referring to the fake plastic nuts. Some of those were rattling around when I got my 2003 2500. :rolleyes:
 
Steelheadchaser said:
Lug nuts should be torqued from the factory to 140lbs. per the owners manual. When I put my new wheels and tires on I used my torque wrench to check torque on the stockers. They were all right around 140 lbs.

But it sure feels more like 150 lbs ;)
 
I'll be rotating tires this weekend . . but I did have a flat a while back, and don't remember overly torqued lugs on that one.

But you're right - many service stations overtorque (which is bad) and some undertorque or miss a nut or two (which is worse!).

After several such experiences, my philosophy is that no-one but me torques my nuts! I'll pull wheels and haul them in for new tires, flat fixes, etc. . . . unfortunately, lots of service folks just don't care.
 
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