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Console sub box

Midwestmk2

Full Member
Joined
Nov 2, 2020
Messages
32
Location
Stl
Started a new winter project. Have a 10" sub under the rear seats but i don't like the loss of the storage space and access to the midgate. So i decided to make my own console sub box. Right now in the mock up phase. I'm going to be wrapping the whole inner structure and fiberglassing it up but still be able to use the outer shell to cover it up so it looks completely stock for the most part. The storage under the arm rest i don't use and the rear lower cup holders are just redundant to me. So no big loss for real except The rear a/c vents. By my measurements it should net me around 1.2-1.5 cubes of space after i removed the factory sub,amp,wiring,vents and etc. Going to be using my Alpine sub first then upgrade later. It will have a 3" aero port facing the firewall and tuned to around 35hz. Ill get some pics up as soon as i find a image hosting site that works since my google photo site won't upload here.
 
Started a new winter project. Have a 10" sub under the rear seats but i don't like the loss of the storage space and access to the midgate. So i decided to make my own console sub box. Right now in the mock up phase. I'm going to be wrapping the whole inner structure and fiberglassing it up but still be able to use the outer shell to cover it up so it looks completely stock for the most part. The storage under the arm rest i don't use and the rear lower cup holders are just redundant to me. So no big loss for real except The rear a/c vents. By my measurements it should net me around 1.2-1.5 cubes of space after i removed the factory sub,amp,wiring,vents and etc. Going to be using my Alpine sub first then upgrade later. It will have a 3" aero port facing the firewall and tuned to around 35hz. Ill get some pics up as soon as i find a image hosting site that works since my google photo site won't upload here.
Just to forewarn you, you'd better allot a good chunk of time just to remove the console and get at the factory amp. Hours it took me, (and I dont even want to say how many) and I'm no slouch when it comes to removing factory audio components in vehicles, I've done it to every vehicle I've ever owned since I was 17, Im 41 now and Im usually the final owner of a vehicle to give you an idea of how many that is. Also look into removing those AC vents before you actually remove them. If memory serves me correct there may be an issue doing so but cant recall what. Good luck!
 
I understand where your coming from sounds like we have alot in common lol. I spent a good couple of hours removing the console from a Avy in the salvage yard with an untouched interior. Removing the seats and 2 bolts behind the storage pockets where my head unit lives. One harness plug and it comes right out. The entire harness in the console is all mostly the amplifier and a 12v power. I've already bypassed the entire amp harness by using the non bose harness plug attached to the inside the dash behind the climate control unit. Had time to get a look at the a/c vents and can easily epoxy a piece of plexi in the hole they connect to. The 12v power source is already a constant power for my head unit. The stock radio has been replace with a custom flat block off plate. There is now a small 600 watt amp living inside the dash in it's place. All Alpine in the doors. 6.5" components up font and 3 way 6x9s in the rear. Sorry for the long winded response 🤐
 
Going to put mesh wrapped in acoustically transparent fabric in the rear radio control spot and the larger hole in the bottom. Will be retaining the stock front cup holders and complete stock appearance from the outside. The glove box cut out Will have a plexi window to the magnet under the arm rest.
 
Well 4 yards of heavy fleece,8 yards of fiberglass mat,2 gallons of resin and a can of spray foam and it's finally complete. Since I'm currently running an Alpine type E and love it just not the power handling. I decided to buy a new Alpine type R for this build. From the outside it is completely stock which is what my main goal was.
 
New type R ready to go in.
Flared port firing towards the dash. Tuned for around 32hz
Spray foam filling the void between the inner structure and the outside trim panels to cut down on vibration.
Fully assembled ready for install.
 
Got it installed and sounds great. Wish i knew what to do with the stock head unit location. I'm not big on tv's in a vehicle or anything extra that may distract from the road. One of the reasons i moved the head unit down to the console.
Any ideas?
Didn't get around to the plexi window but I'm happy with just the cloth covered tray i got.
I have about 3 inches of space between the port and the hvac unit.
 
Pretty darn slick. I am currently mocking up a behind the seat sub box for my 2007. I wanted to do the console build but I'm having trouble finding another console locally to use.
 
From what I've seen there is a pretty good size space under your model console where the factory sub is. JL makes a stealth box that fits a 10 In there. I've seen a couple of builds where some guys built there own. The 07 and up models have a much more forgiving space to fill. If you could handle not having it in the truck for a few days you could pull it out and make one that fits without damaging the original console. Your biggest issue will be if you have the vents in the console or not.
 
Well 4 yards of heavy fleece,8 yards of fiberglass mat,2 gallons of resin and a can of spray foam and it's finally complete. Since I'm currently running an Alpine type E and love it just not the power handling. I decided to buy a new Alpine type R for this build. From the outside it is completely stock which is what my main goal was.
Wow you sound like you know what your doing! Can you come do this to my truck pretty please 🙏☺️
 
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