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Damn that P0300 & "Stabilitrack Off" - SOLUTION FOUND!

wrd1972

Full Member
Joined
Jul 19, 2013
Messages
97
Cant fix P0300 misfire. The facts:
  • Appears at highway speed (usually 70MPH) and ONLY going downhill - even very slight descents when engine power is greatly reduced. NEVER on flat road or up-hill.
  • Revving the motor to 3K RPM with the tranny in park or neutral. This is very repeatable.
  • Absolutely no seat-of-the-pants power loss feeling. Runs perfect when the CEL comes on.
  • Sometimes the CEL will flash and then go completely out like nothing ever happened. I thought a flashing CEL would make the light stay lit constantly, after that. Nope.
Cant fix "Stabilitrack Off"
  • This can pop up at any random time, and then the light goes out like nothing ever happened.
  • Sometimes appears alone, or in unison with the P0300 CEL.
Engine runs very strong - all the time even when these issues arise. AFM is TOTALLY deleted. Brake switch recently replaced.

2007 LTZ, LC9, 240K miles.

Thanks guys.
 
You have to understand how misfire detection is done to understand false misfire reporting by the PCM.

There is a very precisely timed electronic waveform coming from the crankshaft sensor that has been learned by the PCM. This is "learned" during a special mode that is triggered using a capable scanner during a specific full throttle procedure from idle through about 4000-5000 rpm. Every time a cylinder fires, the rotation of the crankshaft briefly accelerates. The PCM is able to compare these rotational pulses to the "calibration" stored in memory. Discrepancies in timing of the pulses are interpreted as a misfire on an individual cylinder, or if random it is recorded as a P0300. So if everything is within some factory specification, then no misfires are recorded and everyone is happy. This was implemented because true misfires will quickly damage catalytic converters and render them inoperable. The system is set up so that a true misfire is ALWAYS definitely detected.

However, other things can cause the original crank sensor calibration to no longer work correctly for this purpose and give you false misfires when they are not truly present.

  • Changing or even disturbing the crankshaft sensor - very common
  • Balance problems with harmonic balancer slipped, cracked flex plate, or faulty torque converter - not so common
  • Pulses in the serpentine belt system caused by belt driven accessories - not so common
  • Internal engine problems such as worn rod/main bearings causing strange waveforms - I had this very thing on the V6 in my 65,000 mile 2001 Blazer when I first bought it 6 years ago.
The 4.3's apparently had a problem with intake gaskets leaking coolant into the crankcase and ruining the bearings. Not bad enough to hammer initially when oil was not up to max temp, but a bad enough front main and thrust bearing to cause a lifter to collapse at idle after driving home 100 miles. However I soon found out that this problem kept the SES light on all of the time. Someone had removed the wire from the IC and placed a piece of tape over it. I was so thrilled after fixing the SES light. Talked to a lawyer and the main problem was to prove who actually did the disconnection - dealer or previous owner. I never pursued it. I figure it was the previous owner. This was a new car dealership that took it in on trade for a new vehicle and thought it was such a nice low-mile creampuff that they decided to not wholesale a 14 year old vehicle and to sell it themselves. They even put brand new tires on it. But I digress....

So let me ask you..... With 240K miles, what is your oil pressure at idle when completely warmed up for 1/2 hour. Any ticking or knocks? Have you been jacking with the crank sensor? Can you get the same repeatable CEL flashing at 3000 rpm with the drive belt removed. I'm betting bearings - but maybe not. I would certainly try to do a crank sensor relearn before tearing into the engine. The least expensive scanner I know of that will do the crank sensor relearn is the Vident I-link 400 at $150. I have one of these and it does all things pretty much on my 2004 Avy. Should do the same on 2007 too, but that is a different OBD2 communication protocol so might possibly be different. I have not verified it on the CAN protocol GM systems other than my 2006 Pontiac G6. Other than getting your own capable scanner, shops typically get $100+ to do a crank sensor relearn.

Good luck and best wishes for a successful repair.
 
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Many thanks for the reply.

Oil PSI at warm idle is easily 15-20 going by the numbers on the dial. It then jumps to 40-50 as the revs come up. So the oil pressure seems pretty good for that kind of mileage. Do you agree?

There is some minor ticking at start-up especially if its very cold. The ticking will go away once warm. Piston slap maybe?

Bad bearing - praying its not!

How do you do the crank re-learn procedure?
 
First you need the proper equipment to trigger the relearn. The Vident is on Amazon. Make sure you get the one for GM and then update the software using their web site.

Fully warmed engine. A/C off. Turn KeyOnEngineOff. depress parking brake just enough to turn the brake light on. Hook up scanner and clear any codes (same key cycle - important). Turn key to start engine. Initiate crank sensor relearn on the scanner and follow instructions. It will tell you to depress accelerator fully to raise RPMs. Don't forget to also depress the normal brake pedal with your left foot before triggering the relearn. PCM will cut off fuel when relearn has taken place and you should quickly let off the accelerator at that point. It only takes about a second of revving. If you do not hit the fuel cutoff by 5000, the relearn procedure did not start for some reason. Don't over-rev.

Oil pressure seems quite normal. Cold ticking would not be bearings. Piston slap will not set the P0300. I would pull the belt off to see if still sets at 3000. If it still does, I would try a crank sensor relearn.
 
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Finally found what was causing the phantom P0300 Random cylinder misfires, and when I tell you what it was, it will blow your freaking mind.

It was the fanbelt. No poop! Yes the fanbelt.

Recently I ran across a thread somewhere on the net where someone wrote that if the belt is worn, and it causes the tensioner pully arm to dance a bit, then it will cause the crank position sensor and/or the knock sensor to detect false misfires. When I looked at my tensioner pulley arm, it was clearly dancing from a worn belt.

I installed the new belt and now have 200 miles on it without a single P0300 misfire. Before it would do it non-stop. But I really feel good that the issue is fixed.

Just had to pass this one along. Thanks again to all that chimed in.
 
POst 2 in this thread
slickside says serpentine belt an accessories can cause issues.
he also lists everthing else and gives great explanation on what trips the P0300 code.

glad yours is fixed
 
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