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Dashskin or Coverlay? For the cracked dash issue.

Annona

Full Member
Joined
Sep 19, 2019
Messages
113
Does anyone know what the differences between them are? They both get glued onto the OEM cracked dash.
Thanks,
 
I guess you have looked at each company's website?

https://dashskin.com/

https://coverlaymfg.com/

I would contact their customer service reps to see what thickness and material each is made of to get an idea how durable they may be. I would also check the sections on install and see if one is any easier to install.

Just my .02 but I think that type of "repair" is just delaying the inevitable eventual dash replacement. It may be quick and cheap in the moment and look good at first but I would like to hear from long term owners as to if maybe 5 years down the road they creak and groan or eventually crack too since it's sort of like fixing a broken bridge by just repaving the cracked pavement. The underlying support is still weak and broken. I also hope the covers don't hamper the deployment of airbags or become added shrapnel if the bags do get deployed.
 
Yes, I have watched a few videos about both, but have not contacted either company yet. I tend to agree with you that this is like covering up the issue, not really fixing it. But, I don't know of any permanent fix. Ordering an OEM replacement dash is like "doing the same thing over and over, and expecting a different result". The OEM material is just weak, brittle, and prone to cracks. I've seen cracks in 2013 AVs, only 6 years old. I have much older vehicles in my household, foreign and domestic, and none have cracks like GM's trucks.

From what I've read, removing the entire dash is quite labor intensive. So I may just go for this "fix" of an overlay.

Thanks,
 
I covered the dash on my 2004 Z71 Avalanche with the Dark Pewter product from DashSkin. This seemed like the only practical and economical fix for the cracking dash issue. My dash was in really bad shape from years of exposure to the FL sun.

The skin which arrived via FedEx in a large box seems to be durable, fits like a glove over the existing dash and comes with good instructions and a tube of silicone.

My Installation Notes:

Note: Dry fit your new skin before installing and repair any large cracks or uneven areas as needed. See photos that show use of QuickGrip clamps, rag between door and skin and light sensor.

1. Remove two vents on passenger side (pry out win small screwdriver or equivalent).

2. Remove the grab handle by accessing release tabs from inside vents (instructions provided with kit).

3. Remove the instrument cluster bezel before installing skin (it will be reattached immediately after the skin is installed). This allows adjustment of the skin to ensure that the bezel covers any seams when reinstalled.

4. My ambient light sensor was broken away from original dash and floating. I ended up siliconing it to the DashSkin after trying other solutions. If needed, disconnect sensor from harness by pushing on tab to release mating connector. Attach sensor to skin from underside using silicone. Allow to dry. You will reattach the connector and wiring as you are installing skin. When attaching the sensor to the skin, note that the two diagonal tabs visible inside the sensor lens should be oriented towards the windshield.

The hole in the DashSkin was undersized to accommodate attaching the sensor. I contacted DashSkin Customer Service and they quickly sent a replacement skin with a slightly larger hole, however it was still undersized to allow the sensor lens to completely project through the skin. I carefully enlarged the hole with a Dremel tool which worked well.

NOTE: This may not be an issue if your sensor is still attached to the original dash, as it seems that the DashSkin design is for the hole to fit over the sensor lens with minimal clearance and aesthetics with the expectation that the sensor is still attached to the original dash.

If you have the floating sensor issue, when ordering, you may want to discuss that with DashSkin for a possible solution (my sensor lens was ~5/8? in diameter). Or just modify the dash or enlarge the hole for your situation like I did.

5. Remove any broken pieces of dash that may cause squeaking (I used JB Weld and 100% silicone to repair some cracks, allowing it to dry). DashSkin recommends using Gorilla tape.

6. Clean dash and skin in all areas where skin will be attached with a general purpose degreaser, rubbing alcohol or equivalent non-harsh cleaner.

7. Apply a silicone bead to the skin edges per instructions. Don?t get the silicone too close to the edges to minimize squeeze-out and cleanup after skin is attached.

8. Carefully position skin into place, reconnecting light sensor as needed.

9. Secure skin with weights, clamps and rags or foam (between doors and sides of dash) to put pressure on sides of skin. I used soft scuba weights.

10. Install instrument cluster bezel, making sure it covers any seams from the new skin in the bezel area (adjust skin as needed in all areas - I had to apply pressure and weigh down the top corner on driver?s side so the seam was hidden by bezel).

11. Install grab handle and vents.

12. Allow to dry overnight.

13. Clean up any excess silicone.

14. Good luck!

Other Notes:

I recommend DashSkin. The product is high quality and Customer Service was very helpful. I don?t think that you will be disappointed with their product.

Color match was good and the skin has slight texturing to match other interior pieces.

Kit comes with instructions and a tube of silicone.

Use some small QuickGrip clamps to secure face of skin around vents.

Use rags to put pressure between doors and sides of skin to secure the sides the while drying.

I used this as opportunity to ?unsnag? the right side cable harness to the radio so that it can now be pulled out for service. Was able to do this since I had had hole in dash on top of the radio head.

You could also consider replacing the light sensor as a preventative measure because it would probably be difficult to replace after skin is attached if needed. I did not replace my sensor.
 

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Thrasher:

THANK YOU for taking the time to type all that info.
Much appreciated!
 
You?re welcome. The cracked dash has annoyed me for years - it?s 100% better after this fix.

I have a 2007 Tahoe LTZ that is next on the list.
 
Great write up for the dash with some good tips to reduce the noises too.

When I got my AV, it had the carpeted cover and without knowing about the issue with these I assumed the guy had covered it to prevent the cracking/disintegration. Was I ever wrong!

I picked up the dash skin shortly after discovering the dash but too much of the dash was done for, so I've yet to secure it into place. As a stop gap measure and to provide some support, I took some posterboard and laid it out for support and secured it with aluminum tape. It's not bad, but temporary.

I've been wondering how to restructure the dash kin and create the fascia lip for the front bezel.

So far I've come up with some ideas, but don't want to try them for fear of having to buy another skin.

Has anyone modified their skin to have the front lip that holds the bezel in place?
 
I covered the dash on my 2004 Z71 Avalanche with the Dark Pewter product from DashSkin. This seemed like the only practical and economical fix for the cracking dash issue. My dash was in really bad shape from years of exposure to the FL sun.

The skin which arrived via FedEx in a large box seems to be durable, fits like a glove over the existing dash and comes with good instructions and a tube of silicone.

My Installation Notes:

Note: Dry fit your new skin before installing and repair any large cracks or uneven areas as needed. See photos that show use of QuickGrip clamps, rag between door and skin and light sensor.

1. Remove two vents on passenger side (pry out win small screwdriver or equivalent).

2. Remove the grab handle by accessing release tabs from inside vents (instructions provided with kit).

3. Remove the instrument cluster bezel before installing skin (it will be reattached immediately after the skin is installed). This allows adjustment of the skin to ensure that the bezel covers any seams when reinstalled.

4. My ambient light sensor was broken away from original dash and floating. I ended up siliconing it to the DashSkin after trying other solutions. If needed, disconnect sensor from harness by pushing on tab to release mating connector. Attach sensor to skin from underside using silicone. Allow to dry. You will reattach the connector and wiring as you are installing skin. When attaching the sensor to the skin, note that the two diagonal tabs visible inside the sensor lens should be oriented towards the windshield.

The hole in the DashSkin was undersized to accommodate attaching the sensor. I contacted DashSkin Customer Service and they quickly sent a replacement skin with a slightly larger hole, however it was still undersized to allow the sensor lens to completely project through the skin. I carefully enlarged the hole with a Dremel tool which worked well.

NOTE: This may not be an issue if your sensor is still attached to the original dash, as it seems that the DashSkin design is for the hole to fit over the sensor lens with minimal clearance and aesthetics with the expectation that the sensor is still attached to the original dash.

If you have the floating sensor issue, when ordering, you may want to discuss that with DashSkin for a possible solution (my sensor lens was ~5/8? in diameter). Or just modify the dash or enlarge the hole for your situation like I did.

5. Remove any broken pieces of dash that may cause squeaking (I used JB Weld and 100% silicone to repair some cracks, allowing it to dry). DashSkin recommends using Gorilla tape.

6. Clean dash and skin in all areas where skin will be attached with a general purpose degreaser, rubbing alcohol or equivalent non-harsh cleaner.

7. Apply a silicone bead to the skin edges per instructions. Don?t get the silicone too close to the edges to minimize squeeze-out and cleanup after skin is attached.

8. Carefully position skin into place, reconnecting light sensor as needed.

9. Secure skin with weights, clamps and rags or foam (between doors and sides of dash) to put pressure on sides of skin. I used soft scuba weights.

10. Install instrument cluster bezel, making sure it covers any seams from the new skin in the bezel area (adjust skin as needed in all areas - I had to apply pressure and weigh down the top corner on driver?s side so the seam was hidden by bezel).

11. Install grab handle and vents.

12. Allow to dry overnight.

13. Clean up any excess silicone.

14. Good luck!

Other Notes:

I recommend DashSkin. The product is high quality and Customer Service was very helpful. I don?t think that you will be disappointed with their product.

Color match was good and the skin has slight texturing to match other interior pieces.

Kit comes with instructions and a tube of silicone.

Use some small QuickGrip clamps to secure face of skin around vents.

Use rags to put pressure between doors and sides of skin to secure the sides the while drying.

I used this as opportunity to ?unsnag? the right side cable harness to the radio so that it can now be pulled out for service. Was able to do this since I had had hole in dash on top of the radio head.

You could also consider replacing the light sensor as a preventative measure because it would probably be difficult to replace after skin is attached if needed. I did not replace my sensor.
Like the pics of the bar clamps. Now I know what to use to secure the face!
 
I'm missing.most of my front fascia clip supports as it too cracked and I have been tossing around ideas on adding it to the dash skin I have but was running into issues of how to get the measurements for the spacing and alignment of the square holes until I was talking with a buddy of mine who fabricates for an audio shop. He recommended using the rare earth magnets to secure it and the fascia plate.
This seems like a great idea and has taken me from trying to use cardboard & epoxy, fiberglass and cardboard, a thin strip of abs epoxied or welded to the skin.
I can envision L brackets bent and shaped to fit the contour of the fascia support with a magnet on the facia plate aligned to the L brackets.
Maybe that idea will work for some else besides me. Just waiting on the magnets to arrive.
 
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