First, the requisite discliamer: All of the following information is obtained by reading the factory service manual. It is correct to the best of my knowledge, but I have not indiependantly verified any of this information, and I have not tried this modification myself. Anytime you go cutting and splicing wires, you run the risk of causing electrical damage to your truck, especially when dealing with inputs to a costly and sensitive item like the Body Control Module (BCM) which is in essance a specialized control computer. Using this information, and performing modifications to your truck, is entirely at your own risk. I will help as much as I can from the far end of a computer keyboard, but if you melt wires or burn up a BCM, I'm not responsible, and I'm not paying for repairs!
OK. with that out of the way, I did a little research. According to the wiring diagrams, the ambient light sensor is a photodiode. It has two wires, both of which run directly to two pins on the BCM, using the purple connector C3:
Pin A4 (highlighted in red) is a 5 volt reference output, and is a grey wire.
Pin A6 (highlighted in green) is the ambient light sensor signal, and is a white wire.
The ambient light sensor signal voltage varies according to the amount of light on the sensor. It is considered to be light if the voltage is between 2.2 and 4.7 volts, and dark if between 0.2 and 1.3 volts. (There is a dead band between the two ranges to prevent the lights from constantly swtiching on and off at twilight.)
There are a variety of diagnostic scan codes that get logged if the reference voltage is out of range, and probably also if the sensor voltage is out of range. In the documentation for the scan codes, it states that the DRLs will be inoperative if the scan codes are set. As I wouldn't think this is important enough to light the service engine warning, this may be how they alert the driver to a problem. (Owner to service manager: "Hey, somethings wrong, my DRLs don't work!")
Simply unplugging the sensor will result in 0 volts on the input, so the BCM should not only think it is dark, it will probably log a scan code and disable the DRLs.
Jumping the 5 volt reference directly to the ambient light sensor input should make the BCM think that it's light, but will also probably log a scan code and disable the DRLs. But then again, it's so simple, maybe it's worth a try. Don't cut the wires, just use a ScotchLock crimp on splice connector to short them together? I don't know, it might or might not work.
Probably the best bet is to clip the reference and sensor wires near the BCM, and connect a resistor across them. The value of the resistor would need to be determined by experimentation. Connect a volt meter between the sensor input and ground, and then try various resistor values (or use a variable resistor) until the sensor input voltage is around 3 to 4 volts. Then make sure everything is secure and insulated.
Doing this, the BCM would always think that it's daylight, and should never go into auto mode.
To take this one step further, a switch could be added that would switch the BCM input between the sensor and the resistor. Throw the switch one way, and the sensor is connected and the resistor is open, and you have auto mode. Throw it the other way, the resistor is connected, the sensor is open, and you are in manual bypass mode.
The service manual indicates a couple of warnings about working with the BCM. Always disconnect the negative terminal of the battery first. Also, if you are going to unplug any of the BCM connectors, always unplug the brown connector first. When reconnecting things, always plug in the brown connector last.
One last detail. To get to the BCM, remove the plastic knee bolster panel below the steering wheel. Behind it you will find the BCM, which is a box with a row of three large connectors: brown, lght blue. and purple.
I hope this helps. If you decide to try this, let us know how it turns out, and especially what resistor value you used.
Good luck, Mr Phelps...
-- SS