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Does a z71 avalanche have different cv axles than other avalanches?

Shylok's

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Hi, this mechanic put a used cv axle on my 02' Avalanche 1500 Z71 on the driver's side and ever since my truck knocks and eating my tire and now my steering is sounding awful. He pulled one from a junk yard but I don't think it fits. It doesn't match and there wasn't any axles left for an avalanche there so I'm not sure what he used. It doesn't fit right and charged me $90. for one used axle labor not included 🤬
I need to know if a z71 since it's special off road does it have a different type of axle than other 4x4 avalanche axles? I'm trying to purchase a couple and do them myself but I want to make sure I'm buying the correct axles. Can anime help me? Even though I'm a girl I try ti do my own work and I'm sick of these mechanics where I moved at from ruining my truck and ripping me off. Gave $3 grand so far and it's way worse than it ever was for my tranny plus all these suspension problems and they stole the air compressor leveling part for my shocks too so it drives like sh!t now 😭
 

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The 2002 Avalanches, especially the Z-71 4WD trucks, did not come from the factory with air shocks, so I'm not sure what that is all about.

Rock Auto lists several NEW cv-axles that are less than the USED cv-axle you were sold.

2002 Avalanche cv-axles on Rock Auto.
 

Shylok's

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The 2002 Avalanches, especially the Z-71 4WD trucks, did not come from the factory with air shocks, so I'm not sure what that is all about.

Rock Auto lists several NEW cv-axles that are less than the USED cv-axle you were sold.

2002 Avalanche cv-axles on Rock Auto.
Oh ok well maybe it's called a gas level control. They can fill with air manually or the level control but the gone now. Whoever bought the car new got it fully loaded with everything. I did read somewhere that the z71 package came with air or gas level control shocks in the back. My shocks have rubber on them. Ever since this gerk worked on my truck when I pull out of somewhere the back tire squeels and the front end is going to sh!t and now I here the knocking in the back. When I got it back if I hit a bump the truck would dip sideways left to right like a rocking very deep and scary to where we almost wrecked. The CV joint doesn't match up by looking at it or like the other one does. I'm wondering with the z71 package they came with some different cv axles. I want to make sure I buy the right ones. Do you know what ratio the 02' 1500 z71 had for the front? Could it be possible he put a higher ratio axle on the front driver's side and that's what's causing all the problems and eating my tire insane? Sorry took awhile to answer my wifi keeps shutting off my location is bad.
 

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2002 Z71 did not come with any load leveling shock.
FYI: 2002 2wd z66 had SELF LOAd LEVELING SHocks, Expensive Nivomat type.

I am guessing you bought used so who knows what previous owners did.

Z71 came with special "TUNED" shocks which means different PN normal shocks.

Post pics of what you have. - Put them in your media album and include link to the album.

Front end axles are the same nothing special for Z71 package.
Z71 package was larger wheels and tires, tuned shocks & springs, SKid plates Locking rear differential and stickers


Front axle ratio needs to be the same as rear axle ratio.... check glove sticker for wat it came from factory but who knows now if yo ubought it used... you would need to count driveshaft turns versus tire turns to get ratio and
Pretty sure 2002 had 3.73 & 4:10 available

Changing an axle shaft does not effect RATIO: only ring and pinion does.

Tires get worn silly because they are not aligned which has nothing to do with axle and all to do with Ball joints, alignment, a-arm bushings, suspension, etc etc etc
 
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Raekal

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Oh ok well maybe it's called a gas level control. They can fill with air manually or the level control but the gone now. Whoever bought the car new got it fully loaded with everything. I did read somewhere that the z71 package came with air or gas level control shocks in the back. My shocks have rubber on them. Ever since this gerk worked on my truck when I pull out of somewhere the back tire squeels and the front end is going to sh!t and now I here the knocking in the back. When I got it back if I hit a bump the truck would dip sideways left to right like a rocking very deep and scary to where we almost wrecked. The CV joint doesn't match up by looking at it or like the other one does. I'm wondering with the z71 package they came with some different cv axles. I want to make sure I buy the right ones. Do you know what ratio the 02' 1500 z71 had for the front? Could it be possible he put a higher ratio axle on the front driver's side and that's what's causing all the problems and eating my tire insane? Sorry took awhile to answer my wifi keeps shutting off my location is bad.

That's a link to tread wear examples so you know what's causing what. At the very least, you'll need an alignment. It should get checked out before just going to do one, because bad parts can be the root cause.

In general, it sounds like you need to have the suspension looked at. Excessive rocking is usually the struts going bad and no longer dampening the coils.

It is rather unlikely that someone bothered with the front ratio. The only reason to do so would be if the rear was also changed for towing capacity and they wanted to match it. If someone is going to be lazy, they'll just replace the rear.

The front diff isnt engaged unless it is in 4 hi/lo or if auto detects a slip and engages. So regardless, it is a non-factor.
 

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It's probably going to be best if a member that is more familiar with the 2002 Z-71 4WD trucks, comes and speaks to any possible special shocks that may or may not be possible on your truck. (See post above this one.)

There is no "ratio" for the cv-axles.

The cv-axles simply provide a straight connection between the front differential and both front wheels.

The ratio of the gearing in the front and rear differentials is, however important, but generally only when the truck has it's 4WD system engaged.

For normal driving, especially on dry pavement, you should be driving only in 2WD mode.

Even a fully functional 4WD truck, when driving with the 4WD system engaged, will drive very badly if all of the wheels can not slip independently of each other on a hard, dry surface.

When the 4WD system is engaged, the front wheels are locked in sync and since one side can not spin faster or slower than the other side, the truck's tires will scrub and skip across the dry pavement, especially while turning, either forwards or backwards.

Normally, in 2WD mode, both front tires move independently of each other and one wheel is allowed to move faster than the other when driving around corners.

If, for some reason, the gear ratio in the front and rear differentials are not identical, when the 4WD system is engaged, with the front and rear differentials locked in, the front and rear tires can not turn at the same rate and bad things can happen.

Those ratios could be different for several reasons.

One might be one of the differentials may have failed at some point and a previous owner may have swapped in a used front or rear differential as a repair, not knowing or caring to keep the same gear ratio with the other end of the truck.

Sometimes, an owner might lift their truck and put much larger than stock wheels and tires on the vehicle.

Doing that can sometimes cause the performance and fuel mileage to suffer greatly and one fix is to change out the differential gearing to something more suitable.

Normally, if this is done, both the front and rear would be changed at the same time to match the new gear ratio.

If someone only changed the rear gear ratio and opted to skip the front differential, then anytime the 4WD system is engaged, bad things will happen.

I wonder if the first thing you need to verify is if whether or not you are attempting to drive around with the 4WD system engaged.

You should only drive in 4WD when driving on loose surfaces like snow/ice and loose dirt.

Use 2WD at all other times.

I would suggest not using the Auto 4WD either, just 2WD.

Using the Auto 4WD setting, the 4WD system will engage and lock and release the four wheels as the system deems necessary.

You can expect worse possible fuel mileage using Auto 4WD since a portion of the 4WD is always engaged.

Once again, it is generally best to use 2WD unless there is an actual need to use 4WD.

It could also be possible that your 4WD system is not disengaging when it is supposed to be.

If you can get the truck up on a lift with all four tires hanging free, with the engine off and the transmission in neutral, walk to each wheel and turn by hand.

In 2WD mode, turning either front tire should not cause any other tire to rotate.

Turning one of the rear tires should only cause the opposite rear tire to turn in the opposite direction and the front tires should not move.

While in 4WD mode, turning any one wheel should cause the other three to rotate.

As I go back and read your posts, I don't understand why the mechanic installed a cv-axle in the first place.

Was he just installing a cv-axle because there was not one already installed?

Maybe a previous owner removed the driver's side cv-axle because there was a problem with the 4WD system not disengaging as it should and they were seeing the issues you are now seeing when the cv-axles are both installed.
 
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Shylok's

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2002 Z71 did not come with any load leveling shock.
FYI: 2002 2wd z66 had SELF LOAd LEVELING SHocks, Expensive Nivomat type.

I am guessing you bought used so who knows what previous owners did.

Z71 came with special "TUNED" shocks which means different PN normal shocks.

Post pics of what you have. - Put them in your media album and include link to the album.

Front end axles are the same nothing special for Z71 package.
Z71 package was larger wheels and tires, tuned shocks & springs, SKid plates Locking rear differential and stickers


Front axle ratio needs to be the same as rear axle ratio.... check glove sticker for wat it came from factory but who knows now if yo ubought it used... you would need to count driveshaft turns versus tire turns to get ratio and
Pretty sure 2002 had 3.73 & 4:10 available

Changing an axle shaft does not effect RATIO: only ring and pinion does.

Tires get worn silly because they are not aligned which has nothing to do with axle and all to do with Ball joints, alignment, a-arm bushings, suspension, etc etc etc
He said I needed new ball joints when I had them done less than a yr ago and he did the idler arm and pitman arm on the right side. After I got it back my tires would peel out on small turns going 10 mph and pull hard to the right then my tire did that. But for the 02' 1500 z71 comes with the gas
It's probably going to be best if a member that is more familiar with the 2002 Z-71 4WD trucks, comes and speaks to any possible special shocks that may or may not be possible on your truck. (See post above this one.)

There is no "ratio" for the cv-axles.

The cv-axles simply provide a straight connection between the front differential and both front wheels.

The ratio of the gearing in the front and rear differentials is, however important, but generally only when the truck has it's 4WD system engaged.

For normal driving, especially on dry pavement, you should be driving only in 2WD mode.

Even a fully functional 4WD truck, when driving with the 4WD system engaged, will drive very badly if all of the wheels can not slip independently of each other on a hard, dry surface.

When the 4WD system is engaged, the front wheels are locked in sync and since one side can not spin faster or slower than the other side, the truck's tires will scrub and skip across the dry pavement, especially while turning, either forwards or backwards.

Normally, in 2WD mode, both front tires move independently of each other and one wheel is allowed to move faster than the other when driving around corners.

If, for some reason, the gear ratio in the front and rear differentials are not identical, when the 4WD system is engaged, with the front and rear differentials locked in, the front and rear tires can not turn at the same rate and bad things can happen.

Those ratios could be different for several reasons.

One might be one of the differentials may have failed at some point and a previous owner may have swapped in a used front or rear differential as a repair, not knowing or caring to keep the same gear ratio with the other end of the truck.

Sometimes, an owner might lift their truck and put much larger than stock wheels and tires on the vehicle.

Doing that can sometimes cause the performance and fuel mileage to suffer greatly and one fix is to change out the differential gearing to something more suitable.

Normally, if this is done, both the front and rear would be changed at the same time to match the new gear ratio.

If someone only changed the rear gear ratio and opted to skip the front differential, then anytime the 4WD system is engaged, bad things will happen.

I wonder if the first thing you need to verify is if whether or not you are attempting to drive around with the 4WD system engaged.

You should only drive in 4WD when driving on loose surfaces like snow/ice and loose dirt.

Use 2WD at all other times.

I would suggest not using the Auto 4WD either, just 2WD.

Using the Auto 4WD setting, the 4WD system will engage and lock and release the four wheels as the system deems necessary.

You can expect worse possible fuel mileage using Auto 4WD since a portion of the 4WD is always engaged.

Once again, it is generally best to use 2WD unless there is an actual need to use 4WD.

It could also be possible that your 4WD system is not disengaging when it is supposed to be.

If you can get the truck up on a lift with all four tires hanging free, with the engine off and the transmission in neutral, walk to each wheel and turn by hand.

In 2WD mode, turning either front tire should not cause any other tire to rotate.

Turning one of the rear tires should only cause the opposite rear tire to turn in the opposite direction and the front tires should not move.

While in 4WD mode, turning any one wheel should cause the other three to rotate.

As I go back and read your posts, I don't understand why the mechanic installed a cv-axle in the first place.

Was he just installing a cv-axle because there was not one already installed?

Maybe a previous owner removed the driver's side cv-axle because there was a problem with the 4WD system not disengaging as it should and they were seeing the issues you are now seeing when the cv-axles are both installed.
Well what happened was it was kinda slipping going into 3rd gear and needed ball joints. I took it in and the guy swapped my transfer case what I was told didn't do my ball joints right and when I got it back the CV boot on the driver's side was torn wide open and freeze was everywhere. He said he didn't do that yet he had my truck for months and gave it to me that way. So I took it to another guy who said like e different motors that run the transfer case, put a used transfer case in and a used cv axle. When I got it back it was ingaging way to long into 1st gear and then knocking in the front driver side area. So I took he back he said need ball joints a gain and a pitman and idler arm. I get it back hardly ingages in 1st& 2nd gear now and won't even go into 3rd gear. Before I took it to the 1st guy the suspension was smooth riding other than my speakers were blown, mirrors and seats and door locks didn't work anymore and the 4wd buttons were stuck and wouldn't go into 4wd but when I got it back from the second guy the suspension was poop. It used to ride like a dream and now feels like a farm ford pick up on an off Rd. And dangerous to drive. My truck came with an air ride system and gas charged monotube shocks. The tubes that were connected to the shocks the ends of them were missing and so was the compressor that was behind the right back tire. He acted dumb. Wouldn't answer my texts or calls so I went there and his wife started being rude and it's basically an inbred scamming pos ppl here in this hell hole of a town I hate it.
 

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From the sound of it, you unfortunately have done business with one or more people that should not be working on any vehicles, at all.

One or more of them appear to have done some incorrect work on your truck and have caused more problems than they have solved.

Swapping in used parts from other vehicles can be an iffy proposition at best if not done correctly.

Since I do not know what options you have nearby, it is hard to recommend your next course of action.

For me at this point, I would consider breaking down and getting the truck to a dealer service department and just planning on paying the price.

If the cost is getting too much to bear, perhaps it's time to cut your losses and find something else to drive.

Normally, I have a couple of regular service shops I trust in my area and I do not go to a dealer service department unless there is a factory recall to be performed.

I wish you the best of luck with the your repairs.
 

Vaeagleav

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Sorry for all your troubles Shylock's, maybe if you give us the general area you live in one of our members could recommend a reputable and fair place for your repairs.
 

Shylok's

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From the sound of it, you unfortunately have done business with one or more people that should not be working on any vehicles, at all.

One or more of them appear to have done some incorrect work on your truck and have caused more problems than they have solved.

Swapping in used parts from other vehicles can be an iffy proposition at best if not done correctly.

Since I do not know what options you have nearby, it is hard to recommend your next course of action.

For me at this point, I would consider breaking down and getting the truck to a dealer service department and just planning on paying the price.

If the cost is getting too much to bear, perhaps it's time to cut your losses and find something else to drive.

Normally, I have a couple of regular service shops I trust in my area and I do not go to a dealer service department unless there is a factory recall to be performed.

I wish you the best of luck with the your repairs.
Thank you. My truck ran beautiful untill the last two mechanics. I gave them all my money. I wish I would've went to a dealer instead in the beginning. I have no money now maybe just enough to buy the parts and try to learn to do it myself. I just moved here in a not even a town really just a drive threw town in the state of Maine.after 2 years I don't know anyone and I've been ripped off by all kinds of contractors and mechanics. I went through six mechanics trying to charge me triple cuz they thought I did t know or say something needed to be fixed when it didn't. We have been treated horrible since we moved here because we are from California. Well I'm just trying to buy a hub assembly brakes and new axles before my steering goes out. Going to put me tie rod and all that too plus the right idler arms. I already have all the stuff except the brakes hubs and axles. Figured I'd get it all done at once. It's upsetting because there was nothing wrong with any of that. I never had suck a nice vehicle in my life or a newer one even though it's an 02' so I really don't want to let it go. I'm just really sad about the whole thing. Plus all the cars out here are rotted out with rust that's a main reason so much if my parts were taken. Everyone thinks I'm rich since I'm from Cali and that is so far from the truth it's not even funny. Ppl around here just don't care as long as they cut corners do poop work and scam u for all they can they're happy, seriously. One person says oh take it to so and so he's awesome, I do and horrible stuff happened. I just honestly if I had the money to take it to a dealer it probably wouldn't even make it there it's an hour drive. Ppl here sell they're cars and trucks for incredibly high ridiculous prices and way way usually over 200,000 miles on them, covered in rust underneath and on the sides the rust eats the car up. Can I ask you a question? When I change out the new axles do I have to drain anything from the differential or can I just take them of and put them on with no draining or refilling the front differential? Thank you so much.
 

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You do not have to drain anything to remove and replace the cv-axles.

There is the one big axle nut that is on the outside of the wheel bearing hub and then 6 smaller bolts that attach the cv-axle to the front differential flange.

Since your truck is up North, both the axle nut and the flange bolts are likely to give you a tough time getting the old ones off.

You may have to remove the swaybar link to have enough room to slide the cv-axle out and back in.

There are some Youtube videos that can show you how to do this repair.

This video might give you a good idea of what to expect.

 

Shylok's

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It's probably going to be best if a member that is more familiar with the 2002 Z-71 4WD trucks, comes and speaks to any possible special shocks that may or may not be possible on your truck. (See post above this one.)

There is no "ratio" for the cv-axles.

The cv-axles simply provide a straight connection between the front differential and both front wheels.

The ratio of the gearing in the front and rear differentials is, however important, but generally only when the truck has it's 4WD system engaged.

For normal driving, especially on dry pavement, you should be driving only in 2WD mode.

Even a fully functional 4WD truck, when driving with the 4WD system engaged, will drive very badly if all of the wheels can not slip independently of each other on a hard, dry surface.

When the 4WD system is engaged, the front wheels are locked in sync and since one side can not spin faster or slower than the other side, the truck's tires will scrub and skip across the dry pavement, especially while turning, either forwards or backwards.

Normally, in 2WD mode, both front tires move independently of each other and one wheel is allowed to move faster than the other when driving around corners.

If, for some reason, the gear ratio in the front and rear differentials are not identical, when the 4WD system is engaged, with the front and rear differentials locked in, the front and rear tires can not turn at the same rate and bad things can happen.

Those ratios could be different for several reasons.

One might be one of the differentials may have failed at some point and a previous owner may have swapped in a used front or rear differential as a repair, not knowing or caring to keep the same gear ratio with the other end of the truck.

Sometimes, an owner might lift their truck and put much larger than stock wheels and tires on the vehicle.

Doing that can sometimes cause the performance and fuel mileage to suffer greatly and one fix is to change out the differential gearing to something more suitable.

Normally, if this is done, both the front and rear would be changed at the same time to match the new gear ratio.

If someone only changed the rear gear ratio and opted to skip the front differential, then anytime the 4WD system is engaged, bad things will happen.

I wonder if the first thing you need to verify is if whether or not you are attempting to drive around with the 4WD system engaged.

You should only drive in 4WD when driving on loose surfaces like snow/ice and loose dirt.

Use 2WD at all other times.

I would suggest not using the Auto 4WD either, just 2WD.

Using the Auto 4WD setting, the 4WD system will engage and lock and release the four wheels as the system deems necessary.

You can expect worse possible fuel mileage using Auto 4WD since a portion of the 4WD is always engaged.

Once again, it is generally best to use 2WD unless there is an actual need to use 4WD.

It could also be possible that your 4WD system is not disengaging when it is supposed to be.

If you can get the truck up on a lift with all four tires hanging free, with the engine off and the transmission in neutral, walk to each wheel and turn by hand.

In 2WD mode, turning either front tire should not cause any other tire to rotate.

Turning one of the rear tires should only cause the opposite rear tire to turn in the opposite direction and the front tires should not move.

While in 4WD mode, turning any one wheel should cause the other three to rotate.

As I go back and read your posts, I don't understand why the mechanic installed a cv-axle in the first place.

Was he just installing a cv-axle because there was not one already installed?

Maybe a previous owner removed the driver's side cv-axle because there was a problem with the 4WD system not disengaging as it should and they were seeing the issues you are now seeing when the cv-axles are both installed.
So the first mechanic I took it in for upper and lower ball joints and transmission. He broke all kinds of electrical things didn't fix the tranny and swapped my transfer case that was fine with a crappy one and probably used mine for his truck. I went to drive it home and heard an awful bad screeching noise when I turned in the front. He said ok and supposedly fixed it. I get it home 3 min away and my right side CV boot is torn bout two inches and greese is everywhere. I took it back and showed him and he gets down there and acts like he tore it way more saying it's rotted probably happened on the drive home. It absolutely not even close to even old at all. He had taken a knife got under there and cut the boot closest to the tire making the whole boot exsposed and way open. There was no way anyone could stick they're finger in the cut it had and torn that rubber with his finger. He acted rude and it and a fight almost broke out it was just myself and daughter and he had e men and e women. I was strapped so I wasn't worried. So I left and figured I'd sue him. I take my truck to another mechanic and instead of putting a new boot on he pulled a whole used axle off a junk yard truck and put it on and since that day it's been knocking and now my steering sounds so bad. He also did a bunch more. In less than a month my idler arm and the 4 ball joints I had put on were toast along with the pitman arm so I had all that replaced and he said it was the u joint but I knew it was plus my tranny's is poop now cuz of him too that's another story. So I go over there and his dog wife got rude and I'm like wow these ppl don't know how to do anything then get defensive and I'm not looking to go to jail rn. They know jack here. So I'm gonna do everything myself I just wish I had a garage. I've been looking for axles and some say good for 4wd but not lifted. I just need to know the right ones preferably also matching hubs please. If I'm gonna do it I wanna do it right with as less complications as possible. Thank you.
 

Shylok's

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So the first mechanic I took it in for upper and lower ball joints and transmission. He broke all kinds of electrical things didn't fix the tranny and swapped my transfer case that was fine with a crappy one and probably used mine for his truck. I went to drive it home and heard an awful bad screeching noise when I turned in the front. He said ok and supposedly fixed it. I get it home 3 min away and my right side CV boot is torn bout two inches and greese is everywhere. I took it back and showed him and he gets down there and acts like he tore it way more saying it's rotted probably happened on the drive home. It absolutely not even close to even old at all. He had taken a knife got under there and cut the boot closest to the tire making the whole boot exsposed and way open. There was no way anyone could stick they're finger in the cut it had and torn that rubber with his finger. He acted rude and it and a fight almost broke out it was just myself and daughter and he had e men and e women. I was strapped so I wasn't worried. So I left and figured I'd sue him. I take my truck to another mechanic and instead of putting a new boot on he pulled a whole used axle off a junk yard truck and put it on and since that day it's been knocking and now my steering sounds so bad. He also did a bunch more. In less than a month my idler arm and the 4 ball joints I had put on were toast along with the pitman arm so I had all that replaced and he said it was the u joint but I knew it was plus my tranny's is poop now cuz of him too that's another story. So I go over there and his dog wife got rude and I'm like wow these ppl don't know how to do anything then get defensive and I'm not looking to go to jail rn. They know jack here. So I'm gonna do everything myself I just wish I had a garage. I've been looking for axles and some say good for 4wd but not lifted. I just need to know the right ones preferably also matching hubs please. If I'm gonna do it I wanna do it right with as less complications as possible. Thank you.
Also I'm broke and bearly enough just to buy the parts or I'd take it to a dealer. These freaks have destroyed my truck. 😭
 

Shylok's

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Sorry for all your troubles Shylock's, maybe if you give us the general area you live in one of our members could recommend a reputable and fair place for your repairs.
Thank you, I'm sure there's probably nobody in the hell hole of a place but I'm in Pistaquis/Penobscot county. And I have noomey so I'm just going to do it myself. I usually work on my own car but it was the middle of winter here full of snow and negative degrees and I have no garage. I've never really don't much work and suspension stuff and only taken out a tranny on some old classics. These computer cars are a nightmare sometimes.
 

Shylok's

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You do not have to drain anything to remove and replace the cv-axles.

There is the one big axle nut that is on the outside of the wheel bearing hub and then 6 smaller bolts that attach the cv-axle to the front differential flange.

Since your truck is up North, both the axle nut and the flange bolts are likely to give you a tough time getting the old ones off.

You may have to remove the swaybar link to have enough room to slide the cv-axle out and back in.

There are some Youtube videos that can show you how to do this repair.

This video might give you a good idea of what to expect.

Thank you. I sure hope not to remove the sway bar link too, lol. Yes my truck has basically I didn't drive it cuz the 3rd gear was slipping and after months a d months in shops with nothing but clowns working on and around it I've bearly driven it in a year and a half. It's on thing after another since they touched it.
 

Shylok's

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You do not have to drain anything to remove and replace the cv-axles.

There is the one big axle nut that is on the outside of the wheel bearing hub and then 6 smaller bolts that attach the cv-axle to the front differential flange.

Since your truck is up North, both the axle nut and the flange bolts are likely to give you a tough time getting the old ones off.

You may have to remove the swaybar link to have enough room to slide the cv-axle out and back in.

There are some Youtube videos that can show you how to do this repair.

This video might give you a good idea of what to expect.

Ya the nut is 36mm I didn't have that so I ordered it already and I have a torque wrench but it only goes to 150 I need it to go to 180 also I have torque drill to help me it's not very strong but hopefully will help. Can I use wd40 if stuff is rusted tight to get them off? It all looks like a simple job hopping nothing goes wrong like it usually does for me. That's great news I don't have to drain the differential. I didn't think so.
 

Shylok's

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You do not have to drain anything to remove and replace the cv-axles.

There is the one big axle nut that is on the outside of the wheel bearing hub and then 6 smaller bolts that attach the cv-axle to the front differential flange.

Since your truck is up North, both the axle nut and the flange bolts are likely to give you a tough time getting the old ones off.

You may have to remove the swaybar link to have enough room to slide the cv-axle out and back in.

There are some Youtube videos that can show you how to do this repair.

This video might give you a good idea of what to expect.

Hi again sorry, also some axles said for a 4x4 without a z71 package, or they say for a 4x4 but not for lifted trucks so I'm confused. I just want some that are just for a z71 with matching hubs so there's less problems installing them. Everyone keeps saying my truck didn't come with an air ride system but it did I had it and now it's gone I can only add air to the shocks manually. And I've called the dealership and they gave me the list of all the extras and upgrades my truck has and the ppl who bought got it fully loaded and extras. It has a lift so not sure what to buy. But definitely doing it myself this time.
 

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Removing the sway bar links is probably one of the easiest things for you to do on your list.

Were you able to watch the video I posted?

He changed out the sway bar links as part of that repair.

No big deal.

Only if the old sway bar links are rusted junk, then new ones will need to be installed and they are probably one of the cheapest parts you can buy for the problems you list.

Now that you say the truck is lifted, it may be possible that depending on the size of the lift, you MAY need different than stock cv-axles.

I can see where a cv-axle for a lifted truck might have to be longer than stock and possibly need to be able to function at a more severe angle.

That's going to make just looking up the correct part a little more difficult than just using most online parts suppliers.

Some parts for lifted trucks are going to be more specialized just for that application.

I can see where the angles on a lifted truck may also play hell with the cv-axle boots, especially boots on old, used cv-axles.

I do not have a lifted truck, but others here do and may be able to shed some light on that subject.

I do not have a Z-71 truck, either.

But I do not recall the actual cv-axles as being part of the Z-71 package that makes it different from a standard 4WD.

There is a list of different parts that come with the Z-71 package as opposed to the regular 4WD, but a lot of the parts are the same.

Once again, someone with direct knowledge of the Z-71 package can speak to the actual differences.

Does anyone here know if, as a short term test, he can remove both cv-axles and/or front drive shaft and drive the truck a short distance to see if there is a problem with the front diff/transfer case?

Just spit balling to give him something to try.

I know this is not possible with an AWD system since removing any of those parts will not allow the truck to move under power, but I don't know about a 4WD system.

Lots of different problems going on with this truck and I'm not quite sure where I would even start.

Best of luck with your repairs.
 

Raekal

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-

Does anyone here know if, as a short term test, he can remove both cv-axles and/or front drive shaft and drive the truck a short distance to see if there is a problem with the front diff/transfer case?

Just spit balling to give him something to try.

I know this is not possible with an AWD system since removing any of those parts will not allow the truck to move under power, but I don't know about a 4WD system.

-

Yep! This works fine, my truck was missing both. I made for darn sure to throw it in gear and roll forward/ back before daring to reinstall them. You just need to be careful, turn the wheel out so someone can watch the front diff mount on that side and when you roll, they will turn.

The front diff can seize when neglected and it was weird that she shafts were both missing. Ongoing theory is still that the rear diff might have been swapped out. Im avoiding the use of it obviously until i can get it on a lift.

Similarly, if you ever break your rear diff, you can limp her along in 4wd, essentially having a low speed fwd truck at that point.
I think @redheadedrod is running z71 as a 2wd at the moment. I don't recall if he removed the cv axles or the front driveshaft though.
Removing the cv joins is really the only true way to do it. Doing so would get rid of the friction caused by the front wheels needing to spin the shafts and can increase gas mileage. However, just removing them will leave the back of the wheel hubs open to debris and the mount face on the diff open to rust (mine had to be polished and re-tapped). I think the front bearings needs to be swapped to 2wd variants as a preventative measure for the bearing life.

Of course, if you needed to rebuild the trans at any point you could go all the way and change the tail housing out on the trans and cut the transfer case out entirely along with the front diff and save a few hundred pounds.

Taking the forward drive shaft out alone on the other hand really doesnt do much. Both the transfer case and front diff can engage if allowed to do so, you simply would cut the power transfer between them. While i', sure there's a specific case where this would be a short term solution, it leaves too much of the system intact imo. probably could unplug the front diff too as long as you can live with a 4wd service message all the time.
 
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Shylok's

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Removing the sway bar links is probably one of the easiest things for you to do on your list.

Were you able to watch the video I posted?

He changed out the sway bar links as part of that repair.

No big deal.

Only if the old sway bar links are rusted junk, then new ones will need to be installed and they are probably one of the cheapest parts you can buy for the problems you list.

Now that you say the truck is lifted, it may be possible that depending on the size of the lift, you MAY need different than stock cv-axles.

I can see where a cv-axle for a lifted truck might have to be longer than stock and possibly need to be able to function at a more severe angle.

That's going to make just looking up the correct part a little more difficult than just using most online parts suppliers.

Some parts for lifted trucks are going to be more specialized just for that application.

I can see where the angles on a lifted truck may also play hell with the cv-axle boots, especially boots on old, used cv-axles.

I do not have a lifted truck, but others here do and may be able to shed some light on that subject.

I do not have a Z-71 truck, either.

But I do not recall the actual cv-axles as being part of the Z-71 package that makes it different from a standard 4WD.

There is a list of different parts that come with the Z-71 package as opposed to the regular 4WD, but a lot of the parts are the same.

Once again, someone with direct knowledge of the Z-71 package can speak to the actual differences.

Does anyone here know if, as a short term test, he can remove both cv-axles and/or front drive shaft and drive the truck a short distance to see if there is a problem with the front diff/transfer case?

Just spit balling to give him something to try.

I know this is not possible with an AWD system since removing any of those parts will not allow the truck to move under power, but I don't know about a 4WD system.

Lots of different problems going on with this truck and I'm not quite sure where I would even start.

Best of luck with your repairs.
Thank you for your help. Ya I was thinking that too about the axle being longer. Btw I'm a girl 😁 not a guy. If sway bars are cheap I'll probably those into to redo too and might as well do it all. Doing breaks and ritard also. Breaks sound weird now and the steering and I think it's doing something to the bar upfront in the middle. Also the cam shafts are different levels not sure if that would do something. But for sure the left cv axle is bad and causing major problems. If I don't have air in the shocks the truck drives so dangerously horrible scary. Thinking after the stole the air ride and for the time there was no air in the shocks Everything was put in the struts and ruined those? Idk what these inbreds did to my truck. The only way now is to just do all I can to it with what I have before winter comes. Nothing but rain here so hopefully when I get the parts it'll be sunny.
Any help from anyone else would really help. Maybe someone with a 4wd air ride control and lift maybe can tell me what CV joints they have. Thanks a bunch everyone! I'll keep looking. But have to find fast cuz that my only car and can't go nowhere till it's fixed.
 

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Girl or not, I am sure you can handle your repairs just fine once you determine what is wrong and what is the best course of action to take.

Best of luck with your repairs.
 

2SmokinBarrels

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dang thats tough luck Shylok.
Maybe Hub is bad? or
I was having problems with steering. wouldn't turn sharp especially in reverse. Had wheel alignment corrected. Mainly had too much 'negative camber'. Where the tires are tilted /---\.
Had shop with laser alignment do repair. I wasnt comfortable messing with the cams but you seem willing to get dirty so Good Luck. Do your research especially here, use the Search and you'll find a thread that may help.
Get yourself a "Bolt Buster".
 
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Shylok's

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Girl or not, I am sure you can handle your repairs just fine once you determine what is wrong and what is the best course of action to take.

Best of luck with your repairs.
Thank you I try. I usually work on my cars but didn't have a place to fix my truck during winter. Would be awesome to have a garage, especially during the winter.
 

Shylok's

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Yep! This works fine, my truck was missing both. I made for darn sure to throw it in gear and roll forward/ back before daring to reinstall them. You just need to be careful, turn the wheel out so someone can watch the front diff mount on that side and when you roll, they will turn.

The front diff can seize when neglected and it was weird that she shafts were both missing. Ongoing theory is still that the rear diff might have been swapped out. Im avoiding the use of it obviously until i can get it on a lift.

Similarly, if you ever break your rear diff, you can limp her along in 4wd, essentially having a low speed fwd truck at that point.

Removing the cv joins is really the only true way to do it. Doing so would get rid of the friction caused by the front wheels needing to spin the shafts and can increase gas mileage. However, just removing them will leave the back of the wheel hubs open to debris and the mount face on the diff open to rust (mine had to be polished and re-tapped). I think the front bearings needs to be swapped to 2wd variants as a preventative measure for the bearing life.

Of course, if you needed to rebuild the trans at any point you could go all the way and change the tail housing out on the trans and cut the transfer case out entirely along with the front diff and save a few hundred pounds.

Taking the forward drive shaft out alone on the other hand really doesnt do much. Both the transfer case and front diff can engage if allowed to do so, you simply would cut the power transfer between them. While i', sure there's a specific case where this would be a short term solution, it leaves too much of the system intact imo. probably could unplug the front diff too as long as you can live with a 4wd service message all the time.
Thanks Frito I just saw this, musta passed it. I don't think it's the differential. The s hike that was just supposed to put a new boot on my divers side axle put a used cv axle in it and i heard knocking and my ride was horrible. I told him it's the CV he put in but he just ignored me then I needed a bunch of stuff. It's already messed with the hub being broken or going out and now messing with my steering and cams. He ffd up everything. And the transfer case he put in my truck drives worse than when I took it to him. Long story short ppl here suck, pretend to be mechanics, roofers, contractors and carpenters when the know jack s. I had to fix my wiring harness under the dash, my keyless entry security, get a new rearview mirror stopped working, fix ac/heater computer climate control and but new air tubes kit for my rear shocks when I got the truck back. The last mechanic swapped out my transfer case for himself and put a busted one in tore my CV boot, broke my automatic door locks and mirror buttons don't work. These ppl are straight loser, theiving scamming dirt bags. Of ya and he blew out my speakers. Drove my car around before giving it back to me. The last mechanic idk what he did but within w weeks now the inner driver's side tire is now showing threads! So I myself had to fix all those things I mentions including speakers and now I'm going to buy new struts, CV axles, hubs, rotors and breaks and do all the work myself. F everybody else here. I've had so much stolen from me it's not even funny.
 
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