• If you currently own, previously owned or want to own an Avalanche, we welcome you to become a member today. Membership is FREE, register now!

driveshaft

Vulcan

Full Member
Joined
Sep 24, 2003
Messages
82
Location
oakland
hey guys, have a major concern, my driveshaft is rusted or corroded not sure which it is, maybe both? anyhow its orange all orange im worried that it will snap, friend of mine says if that happens its deadly since it might spread metal parts all over the road and motorists behine you might get hurt and the remainder of the shaft might flip the car forward if going high speed. is there ANYTHING i can do? i get hard shifting as well, its a 5.3 liter avy. but i think its cause of the K&N filter, since gm says it will cause hard shifting b/c of them. also will the dealer cover this under warranty? coworker said that they might spray something to help it stop rusty or stop corrosion or what not. ANY advise will help :C:
 
I bet you have a 4 wheel drive, right? I know because all of them that I have seen look that way! THe 2 wheel drives have a aluminum driveshaft. I would not worry about it, its just a little surface rust.


Butch
 
Yea...what he said...unless you have been parking in 3 feet of water for long periods...no big deal...you won't find a steel driveshaft that doesn't have surface rust/orange on it...
 
Vulcan said:
hey guys, have a major concern, my driveshaft is rusted or corroded not sure which it is, maybe both? anyhow its orange all orange im worried that it will snap, friend of mine says if that happens its deadly since it might spread metal parts all over the road and motorists behine you might get hurt and the remainder of the shaft might flip the car forward if going high speed. is there ANYTHING i can do? i get hard shifting as well, its a 5.3 liter avy. but i think its cause of the K&N filter, since gm says it will cause hard shifting b/c of them. also will the dealer cover this under warranty? coworker said that they might spray something to help it stop rusty or stop corrosion or what not. ANY advise will help :C:

Surface rust. Not a big deal. When driveshafts break they don't go shooting out from under the truck to wipe out the school bus full of nuns in the next lane. If you see a car flip as a result of the drivehaft breaking, I'll eat said driveshaft. I'd say your friend is full-o'-crap on all counts. In fact, you might want to get better friends.

K&N air filter causes hard shifting? Might be time to find another dealer too.

Co-worker sounds like the most competant of the bunch. A little POR-15 or equal (even WD-40 or PB Blaster would help some) might make it look better by getting rid of the orange surface rust. Just don't apply so much of anything that your driveshaft goes out of balance or you ain't gonna be happy.

Joe
 
Hey Joe...I'm not flaming on you...I think you are one of the funniest guys I have ever "read"...
but...

Their is a TSB out by the General that can deny warraty tranny repairs based on K&N filters...too much oil contaminates the MAF...so the General claims and has put to print...

also...in the 50's, 60's...early 70's...rear wheel drive cars (esp. light ones)...if the front u-joint spit... the shaft would fall and jack the back of the vehicle UP and in a FEW cases OVER...rare...but has happened...

 
I CHNGE said:
Hey Joe...I'm not flaming on you...I think you are one of the funniest guys I have ever "read"...
but...

Their is a TSB out by the General that can deny warraty tranny repairs based on K&N filters...too much oil contaminates the MAF...so the General claims and has put to print...

also...in the 50's, 60's...early 70's...rear wheel drive cars (esp. light ones)...if the front u-joint spit... the shaft would fall and jack the back of the vehicle UP and in a FEW cases OVER...rare...but has happened...

First of all, I would never take that as flaming. if I'm wrong, I'm man enough to admit it, so no sweat. ;)

The TSB connection with a K&N makes sense and I hadn't looked at it from that angle. I thought the insinuation was that the K&N makes so much neck snapping torque and horsepower that all of those ponies somehow manifested themselves into a 750HP chevy with a big ole' 8 on the side and a HANS device on each seat. If you're not a NASCAR fan, you have no idea what the heck I'm talking about soooo......

As far as cars flipping because the driveshaft breaking.....hmmmmm, having a hard time following that one. I'm from a Jeep background and I have broken more than my share of driveshafts. Everytime I did, the universal truth was that all hell would break loose underneath as that thing played 5500 RPM ping-pong off my muffler, heatshields, frame, etc. but never actually hit the ground since the pinion points up enough to keep it from going that far south.

Again, maybe I'm wrong but I think somebody filled Vulcan's head with some paranoid delusions. In fact, I'll compromise and recant my previous post and say that if a drveshaft breaks and flips a 6,000 lb Avalanche, then I'll eat that driveshaft.

And stop flaming me. ;)

Joe
 
Again...ROFLMAO....

and it is the FRONT NOT THE PINION side that has to "spit"...

and if it happens on an AV...I'LL BE THERE WITH FORK AND KNIFE RIGHT NEXT TO YA... (y) (y) >:D

edit: reread your post..." the pinion kept the shaft up..."
on a jeep yea...not on a "car"...
 
There will be no reason for you to have concern over the surface rust on the driveshaft. GM hasn't coated shafts for MANY years. Rust-through isn't an issue ;) If it was, you'd see problems all over the road.

You should find a better friend to have automotive discussions with. Driveshaft failures do not result in explosive damages sending shrapnel around. Rarely (except in cases of high HP machines) does the actual shaft TUBE fail, instead the failure is at the yoke. When the front yoke fails, you do have the POTENTIAL for the shaft to drop down, impale the road and lift the vehicle. Safety loops are required on drag racers for that reason. Rear yoke failure simply drops the shaft harmelssly at the back, and leaves one with no motivational forces to move.

Resist the temptation to get under there with a wire brush and can of spray paint. Rarely will you achieve a proper even coat, and instead you'll create an imbalance on the shaft, thus leading to a vibration at some speeds while driving, thus more frustration, thus a reason to ask your friend about it, thus his explanation that your muffler dampening fluid has reached a combustible state and will soon cause an explosion in the blinker fluid dispenser.

K&N won't cause HARD shifting. As mentioned, it has been questioned by GM in regards to confusing shift signals by oiling the MAF wires. If you haven't maintainted the K&N yourself yet, this isn't an issue. It becomes an issue when people attempt to maintain the K&N filter and have no clue how to do so. "If a little oil is good, a LOT must be much better!" - doesn't work! People also tend to over-maintain the filter. A layer of dust is DESIRED on there, not to be immediately removed. The dust creates increased filter surface area. Proper cleaning should be infrequent, and when done the re-oiling should be very minimal and be let to dry to the element before use.
 
corrected link


Check this out

http://www.chevyavalanchefanclub.com/cafcna/index.php?board=14;action=display;threadid=3574
 
Z66 BUTCH said:
I bet you have a 4 wheel drive, right? I know because all of them that I have seen look that way! THe 2 wheel drives have a aluminum driveshaft. I would not worry about it, its just a little surface rust.


Butch


exactly what i was thinking when i read the post. i own a Z-71. i also had a Z-66. the 2wd had a beautiful aluminum driveshaft. the 4wd has a steel driveshaft that is not as cool looking as the other. it does have surface rust on it. nothing to worry about though.
 
Here's how I paint the drive shafts. Put the vehicle on jack stands or on a lift rack. Start it up and put it in low gear. with the drive shaft turning you will ba able to sand and paint it evenly.
CAUTION: BE VERY CAREFUL NOT TO GET ANY LOOSE CLOTHING ENTANGLED IN THE DRIVE SHAFT. ALSO, WEAR EYE PROTECTION AND A RESPIRATOR.
 
Back
Top