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Dyno Results:Cam,cut-outs,UPD And 4"ram Air

R

RedHawk

GUEST
Finally dynoed the truck with several different mods.First lets get to the Cam. Not real happy with the results with my street racing test or dynos.. I picked up about 6 RWHP but lost power in the low to mid range, about 4 to 7 RWHP to bwe exact. The Cam was free so I will do some more research and change it out.. Probably go a little bigger.. Peak power is around 5600 RPM, which is about 200 rpm higher than the stock cam. I did gain about 20 rwhp from 5400 to 5600 rpm but thats not much help.. Final results are gained power but in all the wrong places.. I may go back and degree the cam before removing it though..


Duel Cut-outs showed a solid 20 RWHP gain all the way through the power range.... I was expecting about 15 but got a bonus..:)I guess exhaust work can be worth it , if you like the extra noise..Be carefull on how much you spend to get the RWHP gains..

UPD showed a 20 to 23 RWHP gain and it is all the way through the power range.. This was a huge bonus for me.. I was expecting 12 to 15 RWHP ,which was fine too.. I then dynoed the UPD with 4" ram air tube and with stock fender hole opening..This was to see if my big 6 litre needed more air than the lower box could supply..Well, I actually lost 3.1 RWHP with the added 4" tube..I was told that the 4" hole caused air turbulence from the fender openings and moded 4" opening..Bottom line ,,,I blocked off the 4" hole opening and just left the UPD and stock air inlets..My ATAP test at 100 to 110 MPH showed me that I was most likely not seeing results from this extra hole..No intake air inlet temp. drop between the two and no increase in MAF flow rate per minute..

Last I had installed a 4" ram air mod and wanted to dyno test the extra air flow.. Adding a 4" cold air tube to the stock lower box is not really ram air unless you block off the factory fender holes..You need air pressure to create TRUE Ram Air..I just added the 4" tube and left the factory holes ,, as most people have done..Lets just call this a cold air mod..Also, it takes 100 plus MPH speeds to get any kind of ram air gains and I mean small gains..I don`t think there is much cold air difference between the fender air and front moded air inlet but maybe some..Cold air is the key, since its hard to get boost from ram air on trucks that run under 100 mph in the 1/4 mile. If you do cut and extra hole,, I would be sure and block off the factory air inlets..


Let me explain the dyno chart some..Dyno 5 is stock air intake and cut outs closed. Dyn 7 is UPD with 4" ram air mod , cut outs closed. You can see the 20 RWHP gain all the way up. Dyno 8 is UPD intake with 4" ram air blocked off. Notice the 3.1 RWHP gain.No extra air is needed on this motor. Last is the second dyno page,,, dyno 9.This is with UPD, 4" ram air blocked off and cut outs open.Also notice that all these dynos were done within 6 to 10 minutes of each other..No long cool downs, just flat out operating temp. runs..

Dyno results


Brooke
 
Brooke, nice work, lots to think about there. ;D

Particularily like the work on the "ram" air testing.

Duel Cut-outs showed a solid 20 RWHP gain all the way through the power range.... I was expecting about 15 but got a bonus..I guess exhaust work can be worth it , if you like the extra noise..Be carefull on how much you spend to get the RWHP gains..
Click to expand...

Are you running stock exhaust?

Jack
 
Yea, thanks for the info. Guess I won't waste my time fabricating a ram air setup. Still haven't found an available dyno around my area :6:
I want to do a few UPD vs K+N runs.
 
RedHawk.., after You Degree it.., and find if its Striaght Up. or not.., You could try a 2 or 4 Degree Bushing, and Advance it that much., it will tend to lower the Peak Power band of the Cam.... I dont know the Lift, Duration, or Center Line of the Cam You have.., but if its not Extreme..., You shouldn't have any problem with Valve to Piston clearance Advancing it that much, but its always worth checking to be sure........... Ive done a lot of Dyno testing with Cams on My Race Engines, and have found that to much Lift..., never helps.., but that Duration, and Center Line Split can have a Big effect on the HP, and Torque curve of an engine......
 
Sorry RedHawk..., I meant to say ADVANCE the cam 2 to 4 Degree's, not Retard it..., tryed to correct My post.., hope it worked......
 
Jack, Glad I caught your name finally..:) Typing a four letter name is way nicer than 10!.. Yes, I have stock exhaust , with duel 3.5" cut outs. I tried aftermarket mufflers and stuff but just couldn`t stand the noise and I am only 39 years old..:D

Some of the problems I had with the 4" ram air, is that I had to cut up my box (not good for warranty). The noise level wernt way up in the cab and I did not like that. Finally, I saw a loss in ?HP and proved that my truck needed no extra air.. The factory lower box inlets still allows for about three the air flow as the throtle body will flow.. I made a lot of ATAP test runs, before dynoing and ATAP was telling me that I probably wasn`t seeing any gains from this extra 4" ram air hole . I am happy with my bolt on mods now and will move on to larger mods: Like , cam, converter, LS1 edit and tune for a larger nitrous shot. I am going to stick with the good HP mods and not cut, hack or ruin the noise level or drivability of my truck.. Hell, 15.27 N/A in a 6200 lb 4x4 is not bad so far..Just need the right cam now.

Butch, Thanks .. Thats exactly what I was going to try.. It seems that this cam is just not running in its sweet spot and needs to be degreed.. It was suposed to have 4deg advance cut into it but I still need to double check.. I am still a little leary of big gains from degreeing this cam.. I put four cams in my last 99 LS1 motor and 2 to 4 deg. either way made very little differrence but I will still try.. It just moved the peak power about 100 rpm per 2 deg change but no big power/torque differences like I have seen on other motors..

My specs are a crane Cam .210 int/.216 exh .530 int. .550 exh on a .113 LSA.. Stock was .478 int /.488 exh. .197 int./.208 exh. on a 115.5 lsa.. There is some torque management problems effecting this cam but the stock cam had the same curve without big 5500 to 5800 peak hump..
 
RedHawk said:
Jack, Glad I caught your name finally..:) ?Typing a four letter name is way nicer than 10!.. Yes, I have stock exhaust , with duel 3.5" cut outs. I tried aftermarket mufflers and stuff but just couldn`t stand the noise and I am only 39 years old..:D

Some of the problems I had with the 4" ram air, is that I had to cut up my box (not good for warranty). The noise level wernt way up in the cab and I did not like that. Finally, I saw a loss in ?HP and proved that my truck needed no extra air.. The factory lower box inlets still allows for about three the air flow as the throtle body will flow.. I made a lot of ATAP test runs, before dynoing and ATAP was telling me that I probably wasn`t seeing any gains from this extra 4" ram air hole . I am happy with my bolt on mods now and will move on to larger mods: Like , cam, converter, LS1 edit and tune for a larger nitrous shot. ?I am going to stick with the good HP mods and not cut, hack or ruin the noise level or drivability of my truck.. Hell, 15.27 N/A in a 6200 lb 4x4 is not bad so far..Just need the right cam now.
Click to expand...

Brooke, LMAO, your worried about warranty with a TNT Nitrous unit ;D

I also am tired of the noise, trying to come up with practical alternatives that won't kill the HP - concerned about not choking the Whipple, but cutting the noise.

On the airbox, I am totally disgusted with all of them - about ready to make my own - the intake configuration of the Whipple makes it very difficult to do much of anything.

Hope to catch you at the track sometime.

Jack
 
???Am i reading this right, looks like the most gains were from the upd install. Is that right?
I just put the tbs on and like it, suprised at the difference, then i installed the factory replacement K and N filter and seems like i lost a little bit. I may have to look at this UPD a little harder.
Great work and thanks for the info.
 
Yeah.., Red Hawk.., these Ls1's are interesting., as to what they seem to respond to...., one thing You might want to try.., would be more Lobe separation. In working with a pair of 434 cu. in. stroked small blocks, for an Off Shore Race Boat we ran a few years back..., We found that unless we used a cam with at least 117 degree's of separation.... We could not get Good Torque numbers in the midrange.., that being 4500 to 5500 r.p.m. And the Boats need Torque.., more than Horse Power, because of the contsant load of the propellers on the engine.... Like a Heavy Truck needs to get it moving.., could be something to look into.....
 
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