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Dyno Test In!

J

jonboyNY

SM 2003
Full Member
Joined
Sep 5, 2002
Messages
379
Location
Money Making NYC
OK....

2003 z71 5.3 4.10

Engine Mods:

Corsa with 6.0L Muffler

JBA CAT4WARD Titanium Ceramic Headers

AEM Brute Force

HPP3

I finally got my truck dyno'd. I was searching for a good dyno shop, and went to the absolute best. SLP in NJ. ;D

Yes SLP who make the rocker arms etc.

All I got to say is a what a group of the most incredibly knowledgable people for GM cars & trucks.

They loved the truck.

Now for the good part, the numbers...

I never dyno'd the truck stock or piece by piece mod numbers, but this is what I did:

I dyno'd the truck with all the mods I listed above.

I got 265.6 RWHP! I was pretty surprised with all the horror stories and all. ;D

Then I dyno'd the truck with everything but the HPP3.

I got 251 RWHP! The HPP3 with the settings I used gave me 14 horsepower extra! ;D

I AM GOING TO POST PICS OF THE SHEETS! However, tonight my scanner is not working for some reason, so I have to go to Kinko's to scan them.

I had a long discussion with these guys. DO YOU GUYS KNOW!...that some 5.3L engines for 2002 and 2003 including the AV have LS6 Heads. For some reason GM put them in some trucks, this is what they told me. So for the lucky ones who are have them and don't really know till you do some engine work, extra power....

Now, I had a major discussion with these guys for this truck, guys you can do so much for this truck its sick.

The 5.7L & the 5.3L are almost alike except for some extra cubic inches like 20 something more for the 5.7L. These engines they said are phenomenal. They can make some extreme power, however, you must beef up the tranny and differential; depending on what you bump up the RWHP. You guys probably know this already, but I thought I might tell ya anyways.

They used an AUTODYNE Dyno with LS1EDIT and AUTOTAP. They also had fans circulating in the pit that were minimum 35 mph winds to max 40 mph winds when they tested my truck!

They used all types of different scenarios. The constant 264-265.6 readings were there with the last reading without the HPP3.


As soon as I get the pics done you will see them, NO BS in these numbers.


SLP will be doing some work on the engine for me soon, and I will let you know what I done and the dyno numbers to prove them.

In all honesty, even though 265.6 is not alot comparitivly these days with all the super car and super trucks on the street, it was so exciting that the money I spent thus far on my truck really was well spent, it made me very happy.

Either way guys, thanks for listening to this long book.

If you guys want tuning done, engine mods, etc these guys know what the hell they talking about. The guy doing the test today who does most of the tunes and testing is a mechanical engineer, I would imagine he knows his stuff.


Next....street drivabillity sleeper with minimum 375-400 RWHP just engine work no blower on this truck... >:D





 
jonboyNY,,,

Glad to hear that they are fans of the LS1 types... I do also think they are the strongest GM smallies to date... IMHO ... There's all kinds of room to play; you just have to balance it all under the hood of emissions if that's a priority ... LOL

Did you happen to ask them about their opinion on these new small blocks (5.7, 5.3, 4.:cool: and oil consumption? ... Here's a scary thing I have heard lately... On 3 LS1 Camaros, 2 Escalades and various 5.3's there have been up to 4 pistons with lined-up ring gaps ! ... The Camaro with the 4 pistons lined up gaps burned 4 quarts of oil every 3500 miles... GM tried to tell him it was NORMAL ! ... Get that crap... I have had 3 5.3's 1 LS1, and two LT1's ... (among other gm motors) None up til now have burned oil... I use 10W30 and use about a qt every 800-1,000 miles ... If I use 5W30, I use 1.5 qts ... I am told that this is acceptable by GM ... BULLSH*T ! ... I have seen Mopar 318's with 300,000 miles on them not burn any ! ... What gives with these stellar motors? ... I wonder if SLP knows; heck they are nearly affiliated with GM ... They pull enough motors to know I bet...

Off topic, but I just thought since they are so geeked up on these motors that they also know their "issues" ... >:D

BTW, good numbers ... I would like to see the ambient temps ... Did you get that 14HP from 92 tuning or 87 ? ... Or did you try both ?

11H
 
Great news Jonboy! Glad to hear that you got hooked up with a competent crew. What did they recommend as your next engine mod? Did they like the choices that you have made so far, or were there any items they would have done differently?
 
Ok here are the pics:

http://photos.yahoo.com/jonkalaj


11H, they didnt mention anything to me. I will definetly ask.
So far, my 5.3L has been up to par with the oil.

Steel, they said I got a good choice with all my mods, except they strongly agree with LS1EDIT over any programmer, the only thing is HPP3 is pretty consistent for general programming. Diablo they heard of, however, they know that their are still problems with it.

The only thing they wanted me to try is the Volant intake on this truck.

Also, they felt long tube headers THE LONG ONES(Full Length) are the best route for power. BUT, there will be considerable resonance in the cab, like a ticking sound of some sort.

Other then that, I got a solid truck.

Also the next mod I am doing is the head cam package with a FULL pcm tune. The only thing is we gonna have to decide on the compression because I probably will do a blower (Magnacharger) which they think is phenomenal. They also gave a thumbs up to ProCharger. These are the only two they recommend for optimal performance on GM trucks and cars.


They told me with the head and cam package, a specially tuned version for my truck that we will decide on, I will be looking at 370RWHP to 400RWHP alone ALL MOTOR. Pretty sick. It will sound and idle like stock (sleeper) but when you hit it you know its comming.

Either way, the dyno charts are there I will get one more that has the air fuel , knock, etc so that 11H can see, cause hes real techy when it comes down to it lol

Thanx guys.
 
How much do they charge fo a full PCM treatment? When they mentioned long tube headers, did they mention any brand names, such as the TOGS?
 
and 11H sorry...the 14RWHP was with 93 octane. I only use super in this truck and with all my cars and trucks.

And Steel, the full pcm is $1300. goes as low as 300....and yes they remove torque management completely!
 
Ughh... Pics are small... Hard to reed bro!

Can I blow them up in yahoo somehow?

I like the ASM's ... But for the gain they give (per the two guys that ran the place) they are not worth the install or $$$ ... They said to take that $$$ and put it aside for the radix kit ... The oem manifolds actually floe pretty good for exhaust manifolds (and they run a lot cooler due to their composition) ... They just don't scavenge like a 3/4" tuned long tube ... Most F-Body LS1 guys run SLP's ... They rock in the cars !!! ... LOL

11H
 
11H - Have you seen the site www.pistonslap.com? This sounds like the same thing (as far as oil consumption). Luckily, I've not yet had the problem.... but I'd like to hear your take on what that site says. Might want to start a new thread, though.
 
Rewbob,,,

I've been there... I'm not quite as Rabid as some of the folks on there ... I think there is "some" substance to the topic, but not to the extremes they take it to ... :2:

11H
 
Question, how do you tell if you have the LS6 heads? Visual inspection or VIN#? Just curious. What are the benefits of LS6 vs. the other headers?

~bekind
 
Im gonna try to blow up the pics 11H LOL I thought I saved them big but I guess it didnt happen. Try right clicking on the pic and saving to your computer then open up with paint or adobe and zooming in.

NJ George-there number is 732-349-2109 ask for Artt Fadde and tell them that Jon with the Avalanche sent you, he will remember.

Bekind-other then doing engine work and opening it up and inspecting them...thats the only way I know of.
 
So what did the dyno run cost you? I'm curious how much it costs to get this really detailed info compared to people who are dropping a couple hundred dollars on in-cab devices like G-Tech.

 
Hey guys... got a question for ya. Not being a total guru I'm curious about something. Those dyno tests you did show you running in the mid 260's, but Chevy says the 1500 5.3L gets 285 HP... so I'm confused. Would someone mind explaining this difference to me?
 
jonboyNY said:
dyno costed me $250 for several pulls with detailed diagnostics.
Click to expand...


OUCH! That's awfully expensive! Out here in CA it's aroudn $100 or less for a few runs and that includes detailed printouts.
 
Woody said:
Hey guys... got a question for ya. Not being a total guru I'm curious about something. Those dyno tests you did show you running in the mid 260's, but Chevy says the 1500 5.3L gets 285 HP... so I'm confused. Would someone mind explaining this difference to me?
Click to expand...


I haven't been following this thread so I'm not sure if there's something else going on in terms of the numbers but...

Chevy is probably talking about HP at the crank and the dynos are certainly providing HP numbers at the rear wheels. Power is lost going from the engine through the drivetrain which accounts for the difference (lower numbers at the rear wheels).

Hope that helps.
 
Magic that is not expensive at all. Especially I am using SLP and the dyno they have is the best.

285 is at the crank.(flywheel) What you need to know is what is at the rear wheel. This is what makes you move.

At the flywheel I am 324 and change per the dyno result.


At SLP it is $125 for 2 runs with full diags. How can you beat that.

Remember you can go anyone who has a dyno, but the question is do they know how to use it?
Also, you want to go to pro tuners such as SLP, they design parts and dyno them on stand alone engines.

When I was there they where doing a dyno tune on a 427 cid 7.0L engine with some new cams they designed to see how the cams boosted RWHP.

This is a dyno shop.
 
Woody said:
Hey guys... got a question for ya. Not being a total guru I'm curious about something. Those dyno tests you did show you running in the mid 260's, but Chevy says the 1500 5.3L gets 285 HP... so I'm confused. Would someone mind explaining this difference to me?
Click to expand...

You typically see a loss of 20-25% in rear wheel HP vs flywheel HP through friction in the driveline.
 
Jonboy:

Could you provide the specific settings you used on your Hypertech programmer so that others can learn how you dialed in your engine/transmission management to obtain these impressive dyno results? Congratulations on the results and good luck with your upcoming engine modifications.
 
Magic Mtn Dan said:
jonboyNY said:
dyno costed me $250 for several pulls with detailed diagnostics.
Click to expand...


OUCH! That's awfully expensive! Out here in CA it's aroudn $100 or less for a few runs and that includes detailed printouts.
Click to expand...

Heh! You think that's expensive? Lingenfelter's charges in the area of $100 and more per hour, and they say to do an EFI engine generally takes an average of 5-7 hours, plus an hour for setup and teardown time. Now that would get prohibitively pricey.
 
OK, several questions here--

jonboyNY:

First, what model Avalanche are you driving?

Also, why stop at the 5.7L? The 6.0 is also the same bolt-in fit, and that's what I'd like to stick in there!


For 11H, I wanted to ask you about the driveline power loss. A little while back, you said you figured about 30-35% of the engine power gets lost through the autotrac; so, why don't the 2WD AVs get far better 0-60 times? What if you have a 4x4, but you put it in 2HI, does the autotrac still affect things?
OK, I apologize, I'm just getting wound up now, and slightly off topic, but I've always wondered about using 4WD when you're mashing it. I would think that with 4 wheels pulling, you would really get superior traction, and anytime I saw a 2WD compared to a 4WD (same truck), I just always assumed the 4WD was slower because of the extra driveline weight. However, I guess that's not the case? What if you had, say, Eaton's E-locker, so that there was no AutoTrac to lose power in the limited slip differential if you're racing someone? Of course, you couldn't turn on the pavement with it still on, but you could use it to drive straight down a drag strip, right?

Thanks for the info!
 
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