Electrical Power In the Bed

[Durwin]

Hello,
I've searched through the forums to find out if anyone routed power from the engine compartment to one of the side panels in the bed of the Avalanche. Since I have a 2002, I'd like to know did any of the later years have this as an option. A lot of trucks have it now.

What I would like to do is to run an ARB refrigerator back there.

 

[ygmn]

Not an option for 2002 nor 2003-2006.
I do not think an option for 2007-2013.

Yes you can add it.

Go to back of trailer harness connector and big red wire which is direct to battery.
Need to install the fuse under hood have power there and protected.

7 pin connector has this power to charge trailer batteries while driving.

 

[avbermudablue]

I routed 60 amps back to the bed when I installed the auxiliary battery. I added a power block and fuse box in the saddle box with LED lighting. In the bed I power a 400 watt inverter, LED bed lights, and a cigarette lighter socket. There was just enough room above the A/C accumulator for a power block and 60 amp fuse. I originally used the trailer harness for a while but wanted to get as much as I could onto the aux battery. I added the DeeZee tailgate assist cylinders to both side and installed a magnetic switch so when I open the tailgate the bed lights come on. I have on override button to turn them off if I want to. I'm thinking of upgrading the inverter to 700 watts. Would like to build something in the opposite side with maybe a 1500 watt inverter to mimic the new Ford pickup truck power station, but I'm not sure how to keep it cool.

 

[Durwin]

Thank you very much. This is the first one that I've seen like this.

 

[MS03 2500]

All I can say is Damun makes my inverter and painless fuse block look like a toy. Nice job avbermudablue

 

[avbermudablue]

All I can say is Damun makes my inverter and painless fuse block look like a toy. Nice job avbermudablueView attachment 232291

Thanks. I wanted to get as close to the current truck technology accessories that I can considering it's over 15 years old.

 

[MS03 2500]

Thanks. I wanted to get as close to the current truck technology accessories that I can considering it's over 15 years old.

I'm still looking into the digital gauges , I can't believe it's that difficult to make.

 

[05 Black Beauty]

Had you tried speaking to someone at Digital Dakota about digital gauges for our Avalanches? I'm curious if anyone has digital gauges installed.

 

[Durwin]

Here's a link: https://www.chevyavalanchefanclub.c.../digital-instrumentation.155226/#post-2179305

 

[avbermudablue]

I'm still looking into the digital gauges , I can't believe it's that difficult to make.

I strongly agree. Dakota Digital makes some but they are all separate. Looks like nobody refurbishes factory intsrument clusters with digital readouts. Some old S-10's had them years ago albeit crude.

 

[MS03 2500]

I thought maybe a corvette of the same age cluster would be digital but nope.

 

[Crumblynut]

Avbermudablue, I really like the 12V outlet and DC posts you installed in the truck bed. Where did you run the cabling to get it set up there? And is that a switch above them?
I just picked up a second battery kit and plan on setting up DC power and an inverter. I'm just trying to figure out where to mount them.

 

[avbermudablue]

Avbermudablue, I really like the 12V outlet and DC posts you installed in the truck bed. Where did you run the cabling to get it set up there? And is that a switch above them?
I just picked up a second battery kit and plan on setting up DC power and an inverter. I'm just trying to figure out where to mount them.

The cable runs from the auxiliary battery on the passenger side along the frame rail to the rear cross bumper support to the driver side saddle bag. I used the back drivers side rear water relief in the bed to bring the cable up so I didn't have to drill the body. I did have to widen the drip hole in the bottom of the saddle bag for the cabling though. The run of cable was covered in the plastic split wire loom I got on Amazon. Yes that's a pushbutton switch because the bed lights come on automatically with the magnetic switch on the tailgate. I figured I might want to switch them off if I had the bed top off during the day. I got it on Amazon. It's an APIELE 22mm Latching Push Button Switch 12V Angel Eye Ring Light LED Waterproof Stainless Steel Round Metal Self-Locking 7/8'' 1NO 1NC (Blue). All holes were drilled into the saddlebag using hole saws. I terminated the cables onto a fuse block inside the saddlebag. I'm thinking of replacing the power terminals for the inverted with a quick connector which would be more flexible for power accessories in the bed.

 

[avbermudablue]

An update to Electrical Power In the Bed; I'm looking to get a cable from the saddle bag straight into the back of the cabin but it seems the compartment ends somewhere near the sail. But it sure looks like there should be space between the inside bed wall and the interior fender well near the back door pillar. I just haven't been able to determine what's there. Anyone ever do this or know of a body diagram showing what's behind the bed wall close to the mid-gate?

 

[Durwin]

How about from behind the saddle bag, up forward, and into the cabin through the side plastic? I'm working on my Avalanche this weekend, so I'll send a picture of the area I'm talking about.

I'm starting to buy a few parts for my electrical in the bed project. I'm starting with the ARB electrical outlet.

https://www.4wheelparts.com/p/arb-12-24v-dc-wiring-kit-for-portable-fridge-black-10900027/_/R-BHWQ-10900027

 

[ygmn]

Remember if you add the MAXI fuse underhood the main power wire in the 7 pin trailer connector is powered up and can be tapped to do all sorts of things.

 

[avbermudablue]

How about from behind the saddle bag, up forward, and into the cabin through the side plastic? I'm working on my Avalanche this weekend, so I'll send a picture of the area I'm talking about.

I'm starting to buy a few parts for my electrical in the bed project. I'm starting with the ARB electrical outlet.

https://www.4wheelparts.com/p/arb-12-24v-dc-wiring-kit-for-portable-fridge-black-10900027/_/R-BHWQ-10900027

I'm going to do more measurements in the back of the cabin since the body plastic around the midgate is about 4" wide between the door lip and the bed seal. Might get through there. I did find a YouTube video on removing the rear quarter panel skin. It shows a lot of space between the outside skin and the inner bed steel. Get to see where GM screwed up making water catches around the wheel arch to promote rusting.

I ran 60 amps from my aux battery to the driver side saddle bag and installed a 12 volt socket and power to an inverter. Still would like a bigger inverter from the starter battery using the 145 amp alternator as main power like the F-150. Maybe not enough to build a log cabin with my dog (joke).

Edit: I found a hole behind the passenger rear pillar, but it seems I hit a steel wall which is probably the rear bulkhead at the midgate. The saddle bag stops about foot from that. So I decided it's going to be easier just going down through the floor at the jack and run all wiring underneath the floor to the battery and the rear saddle bag coming up from the bottom. Then install two 120v sockets in the passenger side bed. The inverter would be inside under the passenger side rear seat out of the way from the elements. Remote control can be run up to the console.

 

[Durwin]

Hello,
Are you talking about this area which is a solid wall?

So you're drilling through the plastic bed panel, going down to the frame, following the frame to the front of the vehicle? Is that right?

If I have this wrong, can you be more detailed? It's the morning and I haven't had much coffee yet.

 

[avbermudablue]

Hello,
Are you talking about this area which is a solid wall?

So you're drilling through the plastic bed panel, going down to the frame, following the frame to the front of the vehicle? Is that right?

If I have this wrong, can you be more detailed? It's the morning and I haven't had much coffee yet.

Yes, but since there is a gap between the midgate wall and the end of the saddle bag it's unknown what I might run into drilling straight through so I've given up on that plan. It looks easier to drill through the floor at the jack storage and run the DC cables to the front, then run 120v cable under the bed floor and pop up into the passenger saddle bag. At least I can see where everything that way. And I have to run the DC cables under the floor anyway. The inverter would live under the passenger side rear seat. Planning on a 1500 watt pure sine wave.

 

[Durwin]

You've obviously explored the crevices of the truck more than I have.

Then going by what you're saying, I should be able to drill a hole into the plastic bed side panel, and drop down to the frame and run the wire to the engine bay?

My modification does not involve the side storage spaces. I just want electrical to run a refrigerator and a couple other items.

 

[avbermudablue]

Not sure which plastic bed side panel you mention, but if it's the rear passenger pillar cover that could work. Really getting into the actual bed from the cabin looks like it's way to complicated. I'm going through the floor near the jack for the inverter. I did install some sockets on the driver side in the rear for various other items but I ran all the wires in the door sills under the carpet to the front where I penetrated the fire wall under the heater for all my aux battery power supplies. That battery is on an isolator. I took the ignition signal from the GM Upfitter connector on the fuse box below the dash behind the parking brake lever. When drilling the fire wall I measured 6 times to be sure and drilled a small pilot hole to see if I was in the right place, then used a holesaw for the larger hole. Near the jack you can see the bolt fastener for the seat under the floor so that can give you some idea where you could drill.

 

[EXT4ME]

Just spit balling here.

Knowing that the flaps on most of the drains in the floor of the beds on both of my trucks are either completely missing or so beat up they are practically useless for their original intent, couldn't someone just run a cable under the truck and up through one of those water drains?

I know with the bed mat out, I can look straight through down to the ground in several locations.

 

[avbermudablue]

Just spit balling here.

Knowing that the flaps on most of the drains in the floor of the beds on both of my trucks are either completely missing or so beat up they are practically useless for their original intent, couldn't someone just run a cable under the truck and up through one of those water drains?

I know with the bed mat out, I can look straight through down to the ground in several locations.

Absolutely. I did this originally tapping off the trailer plug before I ran new cable from my aux battery. It's tricky getting into the saddle bag as the bottom of the plastic bed wall is close to the bed floor and it can be sharp. Be careful pulling wires through there so they don't get skinned. I drilled straight through the bottom of the drain rather than using the flap. In fact I don't like the flap so I've cut and placed a bit of soft foam in the drain so water can still run out but dust can't come up.
When I ran my new cables I came up behind the rear light and went through the wall into the saddle bag. I think it provides more flexibility.

 

[Durwin]

Thanks for the information.

So, what I'm thinking of is installing a Blue Sea electrical panel in the passenger side bed, towards the rear. Is there at least 3 inches of free space behind the plastic side panel? I'm thinking of running the cabling from behind the plastic panel, into the frame rail where it will be protected and then up into the engine compartment.

 

[avbermudablue]

Thanks for the information.

So, what I'm thinking of is installing a Blue Sea electrical panel in the passenger side bed, towards the rear. Is there at least 3 inches of free space behind the plastic side panel? I'm thinking of running the cabling from behind the plastic panel, into the frame rail where it will be protected and then up into the engine compartment.

Depending where you want to place it there is space behind which goes into the saddle compartment. You would just have to measure the location between the bed and the saddle compartment. I have found this takes time to be sure. But I've never cut a rectangle like this in mine. It's always been just holes for wires from the saddle compartment into the bed.