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Episodes of a rust belt (hack) mechanic

Same. Every now and then I look around to see if I can find one similar to mine. It was my first new vehicle. Despite the body rot, you couldn't kill this thing. That 4.3 was indestructible. I had it probably three feet in the air jumping motorcycle moguls while off roading. I sold it around ~215,000 and, despite all that, it still had the original engine and transmission. These are pictures I took when I listed it for sale. I still miss those seats. They were so much more comfortable than what I have in the Avy.

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oh man!! i love that. it reminds me of my first car when i turned 16, a 1992 s-10. it had the little 2.8 v6.

its funny to me to think about the fact that when i was turning 16, i got an 11 year old truck and i felt like it was old!! yet now i drive an 18 year old truck, and it feels brand new to me.

just a fun thought on how our perspectives change as we (and our vehicles) age.
 
I think we all had blazers before a AV here's my 1988 s10 K5 on the day I brought home the Avy. The 2.8 ran like crap because I glutted the cats ended up donating it to the VOA. Way back in the garage was my bonneville.

bigav littleblaz.jpg
 
Nice work Frito, proud of your efforts! (y)

My first Avalanche (2003) had succumb to rust (I live in New England). My 2003 was mechanically perfect, but lost it to rust under the cladding by the C-pillars, wheel wells and rocker panels; failed inspection for rockers. In 2018, I bought a used, but mint 2013 from the south with zero rust. I now treat it with corrsion free every year. We will see how this works out. The Avalanche is by FAR, my favorite vehicle.
 
Nice work Frito, proud of your efforts! (y)

My first Avalanche (2003) had succumb to rust (I live in New England). My 2003 was mechanically perfect, but lost it to rust under the cladding by the C-pillars, wheel wells and rocker panels; failed inspection for rockers. In 2018, I bought a used, but mint 2013 from the south with zero rust. I now treat it with corrsion free every year. We will see how this works out. The Avalanche is by FAR, my favorite vehicle.
So how do you like the Corrosion Free? That is what I'm leaning towards on this and all our vehicles that see winter driving. Any tricks or tips you'd recommend?
 
Been using CF since 2018, so too early to tell. But reports/reseach shows it is superior to other products (fluid film, oiling the frame). I suspect you have read the Canadian Military Amphibious vehicles study that compared a bunch of treatments. It is on the Fluid Film website.
 
Here is the report on Corrosion Free:


And per their site (Caveat Emptor):

Formula 3000 with CSC850 is clean, clear, drip-free, solvent-free, odor-free, non-toxic, a super lubricating metal conditioner with creeping and penetrating benefits – all in one formula. It is not a sealant that traps moisture, or an oil spray that rots rubber, damages plastic and tend to be messy and drippy. It contains active moisture displacers that last up to 18 months. Because it is clean and transparent you can actually see it preserving the original “factory new” appearance. It does not dry out, chip or peel off and its lubricating benefits continue indefinitely.
 
Personally, I'm thinking about going with crc 6026. Project farm tested it along with other undercoat choices such as fluid film, flex seal, motor oil, ect. From what his examples show, the crc should be a longer lasting alternative even though it's more expensive. (~$35 for 4 cans)

It's designed for marine applications, so it should hold up to salt water and it seems to be pretty resistant to pressure washing. Which is my personal issue with fluid film and wool wax. They work great, but they can get washed away. Generally speaking you shouldn't have to reapply crc nearly as frequently or worry as much about it washing away with a car wash or general road spray. Plus, it dries less tacky than alternatives so you don't hasve as much grime to try and rinse off in the first place.


I plan to brush off the loose rust, toss on some rust converter, let it cure then apply the crc, and then pipe fluid film or similar product inside the panels. Hopefully that can help catch me up a bit with the structural frame. I've got some patching to do with the rockers and passenger side wheel wells.
 
Bolt buster for the win. After working 12 - 16 hours for way too long I finally started on the rear driver's side baking plate. I opted to forego any penetrating oil since it would simply be more cleanup before hitting it Rust Reformer so I broke out the Bolt Buster. I've said it before but this thing is my new favorite tool. Bolts came off easily. It gets them glowing within a minute. Just for fun I want to see if I can melt a bolt with it. when I have some time to just play around.

 
Almost makes we want to have some rust on my truck so I can use this tool.

NOT!

:ROFLMAO:
 
Today I was replacing my rear shocks with Rancho 9000's. The passenger side went as it should. It took me longer to gather my tools than it did to replace the shock. Of course, this being a rust belt hack job, the driver side could not go as easy. The top bolt came out easily. The bottom bolt not so much. I got the nut off with no issue but the bolt itself was welded to the shock. I hit it with the impact and it was a no go so I broke out the bolt buster. That managed to heat the bushing enough so the metal sleeve spun in the bushing but the bolt would not slide out. I hit with a sledge hammer to no avail. I heated it at least half a dozens times.

I was ready to throw in the towel, resolving myself to buying a new saw blade for the sawzaw when I thought "Hey, I need a picture for the forum". Sooo, I got it glowing, took a couple pictures, beat the heck out of it and tried the impact driver one last time when it finally backed out. Now I need to buy a new bolt. I'll probably replace them all to play it safe. Hopefully, but doubtful, the local part store will have them. Without further adieu, here's how orange I had to get it. I could have used it to light my path.


PXL_20210425_002804546.NIGHT.jpg

PXL_20210425_002825635.NIGHT.jpg
 
When you got the bolt out finally and the shock do you clean up the mounting bracket and paint or apply some sort of rust proofing?

OR what?

I am writing myself a book why not to move North....
 
Thank you posting the pictures. I live in the rust belt too, perhaps I will invest in this tool as well.
 
When you got the bolt out finally and the shock do you clean up the mounting bracket and paint or apply some sort of rust proofing?

OR what?

I am writing myself a book why not to move North....
I already hit everything with rust reformer. I thought about touching up the little bit that was covered by the bolt but:
1. It didn't look too bad
2. I ran out of Rust Reformer and just wanted to get it done.

Better annual care on my part could have prevented some of this. I'm pretty sure the bolt was bent which makes me wonder if something happened to it during its prior ownership.

Thank you posting the pictures. I live in the rust belt too, perhaps I will invest in this tool as well.
I highly recommend it. I love this thing and don't have to worry about burning down the house.
 
I'm thinking that tool should just come with new cars up there.

Like a tire tool and jack.

:ROFLMAO:
 
I'm glad you decided to replace that bolt.
 
Keep up the fight Frito! We're cheering for you!
Speaking of rust, I was looking at my tailgate planning to repair the lock which seems to be a rusted and seized vertical rod. Looking at all the cladding covering the lower half of the tailgate , I'm afraid to imagine what rust damage may be hiding there. That's the 'con' of cladding. The 'pro' is, your fix can look like doggy doo-doo and cover it up with cladding 😝.
Yesterday I fixed (hacked) that rear ground cable. From filler hose to frame. I couldnt find a braided one long enough at the store so got a black cable to do the job. I had to drop the filler hose for better access and found the old cable is fixed to the filler neck so I just snipped it and connected beside it. If you want proper then you'll have to buy the entire filler assembly as ground cable comes with.
Btw frito, I am getting Rancho's too. 5000's front and rear. Ordering today. Going to tackle on my own too. Found one of my rear shocks wore the bushing completely gone. I thinks I'll order new bolts too, eh😎
 
I'm glad you decided to replace that bolt.
Man, I don't think I have a choice. I don't think a nut would go back on it if I wanted to. I see there is a Fastenal dealer one exit up. I think I'm going to take the bolts and nuts there to see if they have any matches. I might as well replace the bolts on the backing plates while I'm at it just to play it safe.
 
Keep up the fight Frito! We're cheering for you!
Speaking of rust, I was looking at my tailgate planning to repair the lock which seems to be a rusted and seized vertical rod. Looking at all the cladding covering the lower half of the tailgate , I'm afraid to imagine what rust damage may be hiding there. That's the 'con' of cladding. The 'pro' is, your fix can look like doggy doo-doo and cover it up with cladding 😝.
Yesterday I fixed (hacked) that rear ground cable. From filler hose to frame. I couldnt find a braided one long enough at the store so got a black cable to do the job. I had to drop the filler hose for better access and found the old cable is fixed to the filler neck so I just snipped it and connected beside it. If you want proper then you'll have to buy the entire filler assembly as ground cable comes with.
Btw frito, I am getting Rancho's too. 5000's front and rear. Ordering today. Going to tackle on my own too. Found one of my rear shocks wore the bushing completely gone. I thinks I'll order new bolts too, eh😎
Oh, that's the ground strap I destroyed with the pressure washer. Found one on Amazon. https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B000C9M...abc_F1G2X12A3HKMHSXECZBM?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

I do need to replace my filler system sooner or later as the metal lines look pretty bad. Hit those with Rust Reformer to buy some time.
 
I'm pretty sure that was a hardened bolt like a grade 8, but bottom line the bee ouch came off. (y)

Man, I don't think I have a choice. I don't think a nut would go back on it if I wanted to. I see there is a Fastenal dealer one exit up. I think I'm going to take the bolts and nuts there to see if they have any matches. I might as well replace the bolts on the backing plates while I'm at it just to play it safe.
 
Doesn't that just figure, I went to Fastenal and that location is permanently closed. 😕. Back to the drawing board as that shock bolt is destroyed.
 
You would think they would easy to find, but not so fast they are not. Try Dormans
 
You would think they would easy to find, but not so fast they are not. Try Dormans
I even called local Chevy dealer. They had two which they had special ordered ordered for somebody. I finally ended up ordering some off Amazon. Hopefully they'll be here Thursday or so. I can't understand how this would be such a hard part to find.
 
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