• If you currently own, previously owned or want to own an Avalanche, we welcome you to become a member today. Membership is FREE, register now!

EVRYTHING 12v Power at Trailer plug maxi fuse fuses

LOL OK, just wanting to be sure I got the best deal I could. I was very pleased with RJays, they were very helpful & prompt. I should get my controller sometime today according to UPS tracking.
Next job, instal & correct fuses. Then hopefully a chance to do some towing & camping soon.
Traz
 
OK, where did you hide the picture? Didn't see it attached.
My Prodigy & harness came from Rjays today. Wow, I kept looking to see what I forgot, the install was too easy! Nothing is ever that easy. I didn't actually try it with the trailer yet, but have power to the brake controller. Right now we have another car stored in front of the trailer & I have to get it moved so I can pull the trailer forward & actually try hooking it up to AV. Hopefully this week. We have a 32.5 ft Jayco, that is why we went with the 2500.
I would have loved to head to Florida for a trip this year, but we are heading north to NY in July/August. My middle son is playing baseball in Cooperstown. We will fit in some weekend trips in Ohio or surrounding states before then. Maybe next year we will have to put Florida on our calendar. After I get things cleaned & hooked up I will post a picture.
Traz
 
Col_Chester said:
Traz,
Hooked up and towed to the weight station today. I found the Prodigy Contollor worked best at a setting of 6.9 for braking. This was in city with plenty of traffic. Moved the setting up to 10 and found out it jerked to much when braking at a light. Towing a 25 foot Rockwood travel trailer with lift bars and a Reese hitch. Trailer came in at 4,020 pounds loaded.
Here is a picture of my 2003 1500 2WD, WBH. 3.73 rear end. It had plenty of power for this size trailer and handled great.
If you head down to FLA, e mail me and I will recommend some good sites from Ocala South. :B:
Click to expand...
 

Attachments

  • FirstDay_007.jpg
    FirstDay_007.jpg
    31.6 KB · Views: 1,448
I just wired up my brake control today, After finishing I took it for a test ride with trailer hooked up to set up the control after setting the control settings I came back home and then realized I forgot to put the fuse in.
I opened the fuse box under the hood and no fuse was installed, I installed the fuse and it made no difference.
How can this be? It works fine with or without the fuse.
This does not sound right to me.
(I own a 2002 Z71 with towing package)
TIA Mike
 
If things are wired up correctly, power for trailer electric brakes comes in on the large red wire of the trailer brake harness (Z82 "Glove box jumper") This red wire is fed from a 40 amp max-fuse in the "Stud 2" location of the under hood fuse box.

It sounds like you are saying that you did not have the "Stud 2" fuse installed, and yet the trailer brakes were being applied correctly?

If this is true, the brake controller may not be wired correctly. It may be taking the power for the brakes from another line, (which would be overloaded) and this may cause problems down the road.

Are you using the Z-82 jumper? Double check the connections and make sure they are right.
  • Red - Battery power from the 40 amp fuse to the controller.
  • Dark Blue - Braking signal output from the controller to the trailer.
  • Light Blue - Brake pdeal signal into the controller to tell it when the brakes are pressed.
  • Black - Ground
  • Brown - Power that turns on with parking lights, for control panel illumination.
From the sound of it, maybe you are taking the power for the brakes not from the red wire, but maybe from the light blue or brown wires? If so, you are probably overloading that circuit and heading for trouble.

-- SS
 
I just came back in from checking my wiring and it seems to be alright.
I am useing the Z-82 jumper.
I unpluged the conector from the box and checked the pin where the red wire would go (left side second from the top if I recall right)
The pin had 12 volts on it, pulled the fuse out from under the hood and it still had 12 volts.
How can this be?
THANKS for the quick response. Mike
 
The fuse in stud 1 is a feed for charging the RV onboard battery. The fuse in stud 2 provides power for the trailer brake controller which in turn powers the trailer brakes.

Hope this answers your question. :)
 
Thanks AVid that was it. Seems to be making alot more sense to me now.
Do I still need to have the fuse in stud 1 if I'm just pulling a car trailer with lights and electric brakes?
Is there a wire on the trailer plug I could use to run a electric winch? (I will be adding some time in the near future)
THANKS again Mike
 
Glad I could help. It won't hurt to leave the fuse in stud one. Mine is in all the time with no problems.

As for the winch...I will leave that for those who know about such things. The closest I ever came to off roading was when the guy in front of me stopped short and I had no where else to go but out to the field. ;D
 
AVid said:
The fuse in stud 1 is a feed for charging the RV onboard battery. The fuse in stud 2 provides power for the trailer brake controller which in turn powers the trailer brakes.
Click to expand...
I just double checked this in the shop manual, and you are absolutely correct.

I have often been confused on these fuses, so I made sure to look it up before I posted. Unfortunately, I didn't look in the shop manual, but instead read the tag on the Z82 trailer harness which just happened to be handy.

(Someone else posted it, I don't know who, I will just reference their picture)

Z82.jpg

​
Now I know where my confusion has come from.

This states to install the supplied 40 amp fuse in stud 1. Silly me assumed that it was for the trailer brakes. :rolleyes:

The shop manual wiring diagrams clearly state that Stud 1 (40 amp) feeds the battery supply to the trailer plug on pin E, while Stud 2 (30 amp) feeds the trailer brakes.

So, why would the fuse for the trailer brakes always be installed, but the fuse that does not go with the brakes is not installed, but included with the brake harness and referenced in the brake wiring instructions? Seems like they are trying to confuse people. :cautious:

I'm sorry if I led you astray in my previous post, I have updated it to prevent future confusion.

Thanks for straightening it out, Avid. (y)

-- SS
 
I installed an electronic brake controller on my 03 but my brakes on trailer do not work. Also clearence lights and inside trailer lights do not work. I traded in my Silverado 2000 everything worked fine with it. Any answers?


OK I got it fixed had to buy wiring harness from dealer, 03's are different from previous models. Installed 40 amp fuse in Stud # 1. Had a blown fuse in trailer park light is why cearence lights did not work
 
did you install the fuse underhood?

Please search the threads as someone else is asking about the same thing.....

ANd WELCOME to the club
 
Is the plug coming from the trailer a 6 or 7 pin. There is a note in the 03 owners manual about it. I remember it specifcally mentioning the brakes and lights.
 
fifthstring said:
I installed an electronic brake controller on my 03 but my brakes on trailer do not work. Also clearence lights and inside trailer lights do not work. I traded in my Silverado 2000 everything worked fine with it. Any answers?
Click to expand...
Check the Stud1 and Stud2 fuses under the hood. One or the other may not be installed or may be a fake fuse. Also, the pinouts for the trailer brake controller harness has changed from 2002 to 2003: if you used a jumper cable from a 2002 it will not work properly without moving a couple of wires.

Look here for more information:
  • http://www.chevyavalanchefanclub.com/cafcna/index.php?board=19;action=display;threadid=13703
  • http://www.chevyavalanchefanclub.com/cafcna/index.php?board=15;action=display;threadid=14724
  • http://www.chevyavalanchefanclub.com/cafcna/index.php?board=19;action=display;threadid=14084
  • http://www.chevyavalanchefanclub.com/cafcna/index.php?board=19;action=display;threadid=8731
  • http://www.chevyavalanchefanclub.com/cafcna/index.php?board=15;action=display;threadid=4514
  • http://www.chevyavalanchefanclub.com/cafcna/index.php?board=19;action=display;threadid=8735
  • http://www.chevyavalanchefanclub.com/cafcna/index.php?board=19;action=display;threadid=8739
  • http://www.chevyavalanchefanclub.com/cafcna/index.php?board=19;action=display;threadid=8771
  • http://www.chevyavalanchefanclub.com/cafcna/index.php?board=19;action=display;threadid=8802
  • http://www.chevyavalanchefanclub.com/cafcna/index.php?board=19;action=display;threadid=8798
  • http://www.chevyavalanchefanclub.com/cafcna/index.php?board=19;action=display;threadid=8808
  • http://www.chevyavalanchefanclub.com/cafcna/index.php?board=19;action=display;threadid=8849
Topics are listed in no particular order.

Good luck! (y)

-- SS
 
When I left for our trip this weekend our battery on the TT was fully charged as a result of being pluged into AC. We managed to use up the charge in about 18hrs. Not having a generator or hookups available I plugged the TT into our TV and nothing happened. The lights didn't work and the battery didn't recharge. Same is true for the return trip (about 4hrs) the battery never recharged while we drove.

My Chevy dealer tells me that the 12v connection at the rear of my 2003 AV should be connected and working fine but I suspect otherwise. Do I need to install a fuse or make a connection somewhere?
 
Do a search in the TRAILER SECTION and you will find a FUSE is required.....it may be there but sounds like it is not.....

 
On my 2002, the 40A fuse was taped to the trailer brake harness that also came with the Av. It plugs into the fuse block under the hood - information in the owner's manual. Not sure if this changed for 2003. Of course, you also have to be sure that your trailer electrical cable is wired to take advantage of this. The final check is to plug it all in, disconnect the + terminal at the battery in the trailer, and verify that you have power getting to that point from the truck. Good luck.
 
ygmn said:
Do a search in the TRAILER SECTION and you will find a FUSE is required.....it may be there but sounds like it is not.....
Click to expand...
Hint: search for topics on the Stud1 and Stud2 fuses. ;)

You may have one of these fuses missing, or as some have reported, you may have a dummy fuse in one of these spots. The dummy looks like a real fuse, but it isn't.

-- SS

 
ShapeShifter said:
The dummy looks like a real but it isn't.
Click to expand...
I resemble that remark hehehehehe

Dummy hehehe

SS is the king of searches.......so follow his advice.,.....

PEACE
 
I have a 2003 & had the same problem. Stopped at a dealer & got NO HELP. Told them I would just go home & check with the AV group. Yes, found my answer. :love:
I had the fuse to the electric brake, but a blank in the other stud. Installed a fuse I picked up from local auto parts store & was set to go. Great group! ;D You will need a "female maxi fuse", I believe I installed a 30amp.
Traz
 
Does the truck have to be running for there to be power back there? My 03 came with the fuse already installed. As I recall, there is a 12V line coming out of the trailer plug, but I don't know if it is on all the time. Our horse trailer doesn't have a complex electrical system so all I've seen is the brakes and lights, and the lights only come on when the truck's lights are on.

Since the trailer harness would be a good place to tap 12V for accessory jacks in the rear it would be interesting to know whether the truck would have to be on to use them.

-Brian n8wrl
 
On a similar note, the battery on my trailer gets drained when it is hooked up to the AV. I leave the house with a full battery, then I get to the campground and it is 50% or less sometimes. After just a 1.5 hour drive. All the lights and blinkers work fine. Any ideas?
 
n8wrl said:
Does the truck have to be running for there to be power back there?
Click to expand...
No, it should be powered all the time.

avking said:
On a similar note, the battery on my trailer gets drained when it is hooked up to the AV. I leave the house with a full battery, then I get to the campground and it is 50% or less sometimes. After just a 1.5 hour drive. All the lights and blinkers work fine. Any ideas?
Click to expand...
Yeah, I would suppose that the trailer could back-feed the truck and drain the battery.

I would think that some kind of heavy duty rectifier should be on the trailer where the wire attaches to the battery so that it will allow power to flow into the trailer on that wire, but not back out. I would think that this would be a common problem, and such a part would be easy to find. Isn't there some sort of battery charger controller on the trailer? I would think that one of its functions would be to prevent that from happening.

Another think to check is for dirt/corrosion on the trailer battery, or somewhere in the wiring that could be causing a current leak to ground. Also check for any parasitic current draws in the trailer (accessories that are left on and always drawing power.)

Finally, it could just be that the battery is failing, so that it just can't take much of a charge or hold it for very long.

-- SS
 
tafirehawk309 said:
New Av owner.. Do I need a 40 amp fuse that for trailer wiring connection?
Click to expand...
You need the Stud 1 (40 amp) fuse if you trailer needs 12V battery charging power to the trailer plug on pin E

The Stud 2 (30 amp) fuse is needed if you have electric trailer brakes.

If you don't need one or the other of these functions, you may not need the corresponding fuse.

-- SS
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top