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Front DRL not working

cal1tech

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Jun 21, 2018
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This weekend I started the Spyder headlight swap on my 2012 LTZ with low beam 35w HID(which will be returned because only one side worked). I replaced all the stock bulb with LEDs. The LED DRL lights worked for a while until I got the housing mated up. I started the truck and put it drive with foot on brakes and no lights. I checked both of the fuses and they were good( i may replace them for S&G.). I put the old bulbs back in and no lights. I pulled the housing off and inspected. I notice on the back side of the connector was not flat but kind of bubbly like it got hot and shorted but the fuses were good, is this a normal condition? I did put a meter to check for voltage and none was present. Whats my problem?
 

MyBigToy

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It was common on gen1 Avalanches for the DRL sockets to get hot and discolor, then stop working. Mine never did it so I guess I was one of the lucky ones. I never looked at a gen2 so I don't know if they are the same socket or if GM changed them.
 

Hug_R_Av

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Have seen the issue in both with the discoloration and eventually not working.
If you have verified the fuses (checking with a coninuatity checker or meter) are ok it?s time to swap the socket.
 

old skool

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I had the expensive drl led's from Vleds. They lasted quite a while before one of them burned out and smoked up the inside of the lens in my headlight. The socket melted a little, but I was still able to replace the led's with the stock bulbs with no problems.

8BA6D97E-1627-4DF4-9766-AE62575C4398_zpswbbgaovi.jpg
 

ygmn

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Check for voltage at the wires a few inches or so before connector...
This tells you everything is OK but the connector....
 

cal1tech

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Thanks for the info, however I have to admit I was stupid when I was testing them it was twilight and the headlight sensor with the hood open must have detected night because the next morning I went out to the truck started it up, put it in gear and they were on. The LED I chose were bright.
 

EXT4ME

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cal1tech said:
Thanks for the info, however I have to admit I was stupid when I was testing them it was twilight and the headlight sensor with the hood open must have detected night because the next morning I went out to the truck started it up, put it in gear and they were on. The LED I chose were bright.

I toss a lit flashlight up on the dash pointed at the light sensor if I have to trick the truck into thinking it is daylight to work on DRLs and such.

(y)
 

JVZL1

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EXT4ME said:
I toss a lit flashlight up on the dash pointed at the light sensor if I have to trick the truck into thinking it is daylight to work on DRLs and such.

(y)

    I spent yesterday replacing the sockets on my 04. It's been said you have to have the Avy in drive to see the DRLs.
Yes but it dose not have to be running. So I had the front of the Avy in the garage did the flashlight. Did not realize
there was suck a delay. So added more light drop cord  :cool: waiting, waiting.  :E: Thinking do I need to bring out the big guns.
Poof the headlights out DRLs came on.    :laugh:
 

EXT4ME

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SilverFoxDan

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Testing DRL's is not that difficult, at least on the 2009 LT's. 

Check the lighting schematic on your year before you try this but, on the '09, both the DRL bulbs are grounded on one side then, the hot or +12v side goes through a 15 amp fuse (31, under hood box) and to the normally open contact of the DRL relay.  That means, the fuse and the DRL bulbs are totally isolated from their control circuit when the truck is off.  Sooo you can safely put +12 volts on the DRL fuse and it will light up the bulbs.  Naturally, you have already checked the fuse and, if blown, change it and test using the trucks normal control circuit.  If the fuse blows again, you have a short and DO NOT use the method I have suggested.

If the bulbs don't light, check them first, if they are good then the wiring or the sockets to the bulbs.  If they do light using this test method then the problem is the DRL relay or the BCM or something that feeds the BCM.

I had two bad bulbs... replaced them with LED's.  Significant heat syncs on the ones in the picture below... hope they last awhile.  Make sure when you plug them in that you test them first before you re-install your headlights to make sure they light up nice and bright.  These maybe polarity (which way you plug them in) sensitive on some trucks. 

A note on the 2009 LT's...  You do not have to remove the forward wheel well covers to access any bracket-bolt arrangement like some other years.  Just remove the two top bolts (obvious where they are) and gently pull the headlight forward.  The headlights are secured with standard push-in friction pins even at the bottom outer edge.

09-AV-DRL-LED-1-Bulbs.jpg
 
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