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Front End Suspension Rebuild

D

diditmyself

Full Member
Joined
Feb 23, 2022
Messages
24
Hey Avy enthusiasts!

I have a 2005 Avy with 180k+ miles on it. Recently I've just discovered the front CV axle boots have split and slung grease all over. Fun times right?

Anyway, upon further inspection I've noticed pretty much all the rubber bushings are cracking or split and dry. The tie rods are also covered in grease.

I'm going to get a quote from my shop for a rebuild with ACDelco parts, but I am wondering if it's a good choice financially. Does anyone have experience with full kits from MOOG or TRQ? I'm just having difficulty justifying the price difference for a truck that won't likely be around for more than 10 years realistically. I feel like if I got two rebuild kits at $700~ each it'd still be cheaper than factory parts and last a long time.

Any suggestions or past experiences would be helpful!
 
moog is fine if not better then oem
 
Old string but I just had my 2002 2500 front end diagnosed by shop because of low speed clunk while turning. Typically when pulling in/out of parking spot. Shop told me upper control rods were bad including the rubbers $1050 P&L. I purchased a pair of MOOG CK620053 $95 each shipped which have 2degree more adj than CK620054 $80 ea and it took me 1/2 day to replace them. The old CA's were horrible and front feels tighter now. Truck still has front end clunk but I dont know what it is now? Perhaps change lowers? I went to Firestone to check on alignment but mechanic told me his EXT and a customer who had his Avalanche entire front end rebuilt both still have this problem. He suggested steering box issue. Any experience appreciated.
 
nokaoiken said:
Old string but I just had my 2002 2500 front end diagnosed by shop because of low speed clunk while turning. Typically when pulling in/out of parking spot. Shop told me upper control rods were bad including the rubbers $1050 P&L. I purchased a pair of MOOG CK620053 $95 each shipped which have 2degree more adj than CK620054 $80 ea and it took me 1/2 day to replace them. The old CA's were horrible and front feels tighter now. Truck still has front end clunk but I dont know what it is now? Perhaps change lowers? I went to Firestone to check on alignment but mechanic told me his EXT and a customer who had his Avalanche entire front end rebuilt both still have this problem. He suggested steering box issue. Any experience appreciated.
Click to expand...

I have the 1500 Avy but my clunk appeared after I replaced upper and lower CA's.
After getting advise here at the club, the clunk turned out to be the
Intermediate steering shaft. You can feel it clunk right up into the steering wheel.
I believe it had more movement after the new CA's were installed and wheel alignment completed.
Fairly easy DIY if you have patience, which I don't anymore lol

This YT video helped me
 
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nokaoiken said:
My 2500 Avy has 210K and I believe it to last at least 10 more years so I dont mind putting some money into her
Click to expand...

What's the budget, there are a bunch of mods you can do to help.
2500 were made to pull stuff, not necessary to handle very well.
Over the years I have I've thrown some coin at it
 
I replaced my 04 Ram 2500/cummins/6sp with 8.1 for continued pulling ability but as stated my problem is NOT HANDLING it is a low speed CLUNK. I dont need great handling while parking. The repair shop mentioned problem is troublesome actually said scary, but it is still there after following their advice is reason I asked. I am not broke but dont like fixing what doesn't need fixing.
 
Take a look at this video it may give you an idea of what happens to the front end of these old girls.


GM made a kit for the Steering shaft at one point, me I drilled a hole in it and inserrted a zerk fitting to add lube.

Intermediate Steering Shaft Removal/Lube Kit Installation

I'll use this thread to document the process of removing the Intermediate Steering Shaft (old version) and using the GM Lubrication Kit, for those looking for it. For starters, here is the kit with contents, and the instructions page:
www.chevyavalanchefanclub.com www.chevyavalanchefanclub.com

Now me I added a cognito ss175 idler arm and idler/pitman support kit.
cognitomotorsports.com

Cognito Forged Pitman Idler Arm Support Kit for 01-10 Silverado/Sierra 2500/3500 2WD/4WD

Benefits include:Greatly improves handlingImproves fuel mileageIncreases steering component and tire lifeReduces lane wandering and driver fatigueProduct features:Utility patentUses F.K. Rod EndsForged steel and CNC machined support bracketsBlack durable finish
cognitomotorsports.com cognitomotorsports.com

Now I'm not there so I can't say that is your problem Hope that helps maybe discuss with your mechanic.
 
nokaoiken said:
Old string but I just had my 2002 2500 front end diagnosed by shop because of low speed clunk while turning. Typically when pulling in/out of parking spot. Shop told me upper control rods were bad including the rubbers $1050 P&L. I purchased a pair of MOOG CK620053 $95 each shipped which have 2degree more adj than CK620054 $80 ea and it took me 1/2 day to replace them. The old CA's were horrible and front feels tighter now. Truck still has front end clunk but I dont know what it is now? Perhaps change lowers? I went to Firestone to check on alignment but mechanic told me his EXT and a customer who had his Avalanche entire front end rebuilt both still have this problem. He suggested steering box issue. Any experience appreciated.
Click to expand...
My daughter and Hubby just replaced the swaybar & tie rods in her '05 Avy. They found a loose connection between the steering & gear box. I know an outer tie rod w/ends assembled is just change under $50.00 @ NAPA. I don't know about the inner.

The problem she has now is Tires spin on top of surface if going faster than 5 mph, VERY loose steering, and overall SCARRY to drive. We're hoping an alignment will fix those problems, if not, we're at a loss and can REALLY use some help.
 
HELP PLEASE:
After replacing the both inner and outer tie rods on the outsides, upper control rods( which came with ball joints) on both sides, idler arm, both pitman arms, and center link, my daughter's '05 Avy 1500 AWD now when the steering wheel turns right, the tires will turn a sharp right, but when turning the wheel left the left tire barely turns while the right tire turns only 1/2 way. Both Tires SLIDE over any surface.
 
Yikes!!
How does the wheels look for alignment , looking from the front?
Toe-in? positive or negative camber?
Line up one tire straight, the other should have a slight turn in for toe-in.
for Camber, you needed to set the keys on the control arm mount. possibly the bolt is loose?

If its wayyy out of whack, I might suspect one or more wrong parts
 
2SmokinBarrels said:
Yikes!!
How does the wheels look for alignment , looking from the front?
Toe-in? positive or negative camber?
Line up one tire straight, the other should have a slight turn in for toe-in.
for Camber, you needed to set the keys on the control arm mount. possibly the bolt is loose?

If its wayyy out of whack, I might suspect one or more wrong parts
Click to expand...

Thank you, 2SmokinBarrels for your help.
Right now, we're trying to figure out how to get Yeti to the alignment center short of a tow truck. The parts and time took a lot out of her. But, Yeti is my daughter's Avy and she decides what happens next.
 
A wheel alignment at a good garage or tire shop is a Must especially after major work is done. Give them a list of what is new

Before you take it in , check your torsion bars, the adjustment bolts at the rear of the bars. Turning the bolts in cranks the torsion bar and will actually lift the front end, but gives a positive camber to the wheel. Try to adjust these bolts at about medium load and both bolts look even. The tire camber should look straight up and down. If not, This is when I would adjust the keys on the control arms for camber.
This should get you to a shop. Good luck
 
We found an off road center that, normally doesn't work on truck older than 10 yrs, but made an exception in our case.It's a GREAT place. They alighned Yeti when everywhere else said it couldn't be done.
 
when I bought Eeva, (her name from the Wall-E movie because I found moss growing in the box:LOL:
The shady used car dealer had replaced a bunch of stuff on the front end. The mechanic seemed proud of the negative camber he left it with.
Straight away I took it to an actual BCAA Service Shop. They had a super nice alignment system. Straightened everything out and gave me a computer printout of before and after. I did notice later the torsion bar bolts were not set equal, so the shop probably hadn't even looked at them. If I adjusted these at this point it would throw off the camber.
Since then I have DIY replaced all the shocks, both front axles and hubs, all upper and lower control arms. Took it in for a wheel alignment and the printout showed minimal adjustments.
 
Thank you for all of your help 2SmokinBarrels. It gives us areas to look at. Yeti was supossed have had the our off road center redo her front end, but Yeti had a different plans.
They printer those off for Yeti's last Alignment. It's interesting. They left the rt. side slightly heavier to accommodate the slight slant of the road surface for liquids to drain off the road.
If you're familiar with Moab, that's in my state. The off road center has been in business for 40+ yrs and customs for off roading.
BTW check out my introduction message and you'll find out why my Avy's name is Snowball. Quite the story.
 
nokaoiken, please let me know if it fixes the "clunk" noise mentioned frequently.
 
2SmokinBarrels said:
when I bought Eeva, (her name from the Wall-E movie because I found moss growing in the box:LOL:
Click to expand...
Check out my pic album to see Snowball. She REALLY needs a paint job. Until then I did a cheet I heard of... nail polish in white.
I have primer spray paint & white spray paint. But that doesn't feel like a good idea. I just need to find a Auto Paint center that's trustworthy.
I plan on asking my off road shop on Monday.
 
DH K8 I posted a video on march 3 on this thread about the "clunk" and fix.
As far as Snowballs paint, she looks just fine to me, not bad for 20 years old. Don't worry about the whole body paint job. She's a 4x4 truck and a few scratches here and there is going to happen. just touch ups and rust management is all you want to be spending money on.
 
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