GMT800 to GMT900 Brake Upgrade w/pictures

[Jabamasax]

Z66mod what application did you use for you brakes? Did you do the 07-08 tahoe for the ebc rotors?

 

[Z66Modder]

Parts Ordered
2007 Cadillac Escalade Brake Rotor Set Brake Price: $222.44 Core: $0.00 Qty: 1 Part #: GD7372

This was listed on the order form from PartsGeek.com

Current price is $232.59 and free shipping!

http://www.partsgeek.com/ss/?i=1&ssq=GD7372&x=24&y=9

 

[PuddleStompin]

Gotta jump in here and say THANKS.  Just book marked it for next months buy. 

 

[BigDaddyBruin]

You guys are an awesome community. Both front brakes on my '02 1500 Z71 are squealing, so I am going to this mod. Here is what I just ordered:

Calipers (RockAuto)
Centric 14166044 & 14166043 - $33.79 each with $45 core charge each + $15.84 Ground shipping
* chose against the A-1 Cardone on some quick research that Cardones are hit & miss in terms of success rate out of the box. Also read on the success of Centrics, and cost/core value vs. Wagner & Raybestos.

Rotors & Pads (eBay)
Eline Cross Drilled Performance + Ceramic Pads R118096 - $177.64 for the pair + $14.06 CA sunshine tax with Free Shipping
* decided NOT to go slotted or slotted & drilled, since I want the life of the pads to last a little longer. Was reading how slotted looks good, removes the "glaze" on brake pads under extreme use, and helps expel brake dust. But this article -> http://reviews.ebay.com/Drilled-vs-slotted-rotors-what-is-better?ugid=10000000005243690 convinced me for my driving pattern, and desire not to change pads more often - drilled is the way to go.
** Also chose Eline over others for two reasons - (1) they are located here in Southern California where I am, and (2) they guaranteed that the "vane count" of the rotors would match O.E.M. specs.

So once the cores are returned, including the $20 it will cost me to ship them back to RockAuto, and a quart of brake fluid, and 2-3 hours of my time, this total mod should cost me about $300. Feeling pretty good about that since Firestone quoted me over $800 for the same job - with plain rotors and semi-metallic pads.

I will post pictures once it's done. Can't wait to finally get better stopping power.

 

[JDKendall]

I absorbed ALL of the recommendations and visited my local Napa w/ a special 50% off coupon good in the month of April. Took me (3) visits but got the Adaptive 1 pads for $40 and the calipers for less than $30 each. The reactive/raybestos rotors weren't in stock so no discount. All for $300....  That's a deal!

 

[BigDaddyBruin]

Here are photos from the GMT900 mod with the parts I purchased (listed below)... but I have 1 little problem, and 1 BIG problem that I have been   on, and I could use some advice from the community. Here are the photos, including the assistance from my 10 year old with the rotor installation  :

http://i1282.photobucket.com/albums/a529/ccojulun/IMAG0388_zpsc761f399.jpg?

[img width=800 height=450]http://i1282.photobucket.com/albums/a529/ccojulun/IMAG0389_zps8193a8ec.jpg?t=1369787281

Note: on the image below of the OLD GMT800 calipers, the caliper on the right was purchased at Napa Auto Parts only 6 months ago, and the entire exterior of it was completely rust covered - and I live in Southern California where it NEVER rains. Not a good sign, right?

So here is little problem #1 from the photo below... the new GMT900 Centric Calipers from RockAuto are already rusting on the exterior - only 3 days after I installed them. Should I be seeking replacements from RockAuto?

BIG problem  ... after flushing the entire brake fluid, replacing with DOT 4, and bleeding the brakes with the engine off, the brake pedal is very firm just like it is supposed to be. Once I turn the car on, and apply the brakes... the pedal goes to the floor and provides only minimal stopping power. Chevy Dealer suggested "bad washers" on the calipers (nonsense). Big Brand Tire and Service is pointing to the Brake Master Cylinder. My guess is that the Vacuum Booster on the Master Cylinder somehow was damaged when I was bleeding my brakes because the pressure on the brake pedal was normal with my old calipers. Oh, and the brakes are soft regarding of slow braking or sudden braking - ruling out the ABS Sensor.

Any other suggestions?

You guys are an awesome community. Both front brakes on my '02 1500 Z71 are squealing, so I am going to this mod. Here is what I just ordered:

Calipers (RockAuto)
Centric 14166044 & 14166043 - $33.79 each with $45 core charge each + $15.84 Ground shipping
* chose against the A-1 Cardone on some quick research that Cardones are hit & miss in terms of success rate out of the box. Also read on the success of Centrics, and cost/core value vs. Wagner & Raybestos.

Rotors & Pads (eBay)
Eline Cross Drilled Performance + Ceramic Pads R118096 - $177.64 for the pair + $14.06 CA sunshine tax with Free Shipping
* decided NOT to go slotted or slotted & drilled, since I want the life of the pads to last a little longer. Was reading how slotted looks good, removes the "glaze" on brake pads under extreme use, and helps expel brake dust. But this article -> http://reviews.ebay.com/Drilled-vs-slotted-rotors-what-is-better?ugid=10000000005243690 convinced me for my driving pattern, and desire not to change pads more often - drilled is the way to go.
** Also chose Eline over others for two reasons - (1) they are located here in Southern California where I am, and (2) they guaranteed that the "vane count" of the rotors would match O.E.M. specs.

So once the cores are returned, including the $20 it will cost me to ship them back to RockAuto, and a quart of brake fluid, and 2-3 hours of my time, this total mod should cost me about $300. Feeling pretty good about that since Firestone quoted me over $800 for the same job - with plain rotors and semi-metallic pads.

I will post pictures once it's done. Can't wait to finally get better stopping power.

 

[brianelton]

I had brake problems too - when I decided to do stainless lines. I ordered speed bleeders - I got 4 matching speed bleeders. Wrong! The front and rear calipers have different thread patterns for the bleed screws! I thought they were just hard to screw in due to the thread sealer. Needless to say, after not being able to get the brakes to stiffen up I realized the rears were stripped and I got new calipers on rear and never had a problem since.
I never really like how hard I had to tighten down the speed bleeders on the front to get them to seal either. I'll never use them again.
I have since bought a 2500 with hydroboost and the brakes feel so much better than the 1500. My new Powerstop drilled and slotted rotors and pads just came in today!

 

[Z66Modder]

Here are photos from the GMT900 mod with the parts I purchased (listed below)... but I have 1 little problem, and 1 BIG problem that I have been  on, and I could use some advice from the community. Here are the photos, including the assistance from my 10 year old with the rotor installation  :

Note: on the image below of the OLD GMT800 calipers, the caliper on the right was purchased at Napa Auto Parts only 6 months ago, and the entire exterior of it was completely rust covered - and I live in Southern California where it NEVER rains. Not a good sign, right?


So here is little problem #1 from the photo below... the new GMT900 Centric Calipers from RockAuto are already rusting on the exterior - only 3 days after I installed them. Should I be seeking replacements from RockAuto?


BIG problem  ... after flushing the entire brake fluid, replacing with DOT 4, and bleeding the brakes with the engine off, the brake pedal is very firm just like it is supposed to be. Once I turn the car on, and apply the brakes... the pedal goes to the floor and provides only minimal stopping power. Chevy Dealer suggested "bad washers" on the calipers (nonsense). Big Brand Tire and Service is pointing to the Brake Master Cylinder. My guess is that the Vacuum Booster on the Master Cylinder somehow was damaged when I was bleeding my brakes because the pressure on the brake pedal was normal with my old calipers. Oh, and the brakes are soft regarding of slow braking or sudden braking - ruling out the ABS Sensor.

Any other suggestions?

The calipers came unpainted I'm sure, so get some caliper paint and that will take care of the rust.

What order did you bleed the brakes?

 

[BigDaddyBruin]

I had brake problems too - when I decided to do stainless lines. I ordered speed bleeders - I got 4 matching speed bleeders. Wrong! The front and rear calipers have different thread patterns for the bleed screws! I thought they were just hard to screw in due to the thread sealer. Needless to say, after not being able to get the brakes to stiffen up I realized the rears were stripped and I got new calipers on rear and never had a problem since.
I never really like how hard I had to tighten down the speed bleeders on the front to get them to seal either. I'll never use them again.
I have since bought a 2500 with hydroboost and the brakes feel so much better than the 1500. My new Powerstop drilled and slotted rotors and pads just came in today!

Thanks, brianelton. No SpeedBleeders here, and I had the "soft pedal" phenomenon appear only after installing the new FRONT rotors and calipers - never touched the rear. When I had the brake fluid flushed and filled at a shop (hoping that would solve my issue), the technician told me he had to loosen the bleeder screws with a channel lock pliers because the rear bleeders screws were so rounded. Wondering if he was unable to tighten them all the way down. And yes, I am leaning towards getting a new Master Cylinder with the HydroBoost. I think my '02 1500 Z71 is a VacuumBoost OEM.

The calipers came unpainted I'm sure, so get some caliper paint and that will take care of the rust.

What order did you bleed the brakes?

Z66Modder - When I ORIGINALLY did the bleed right after installing the new calipers, I did the Passenger Front, then Driver Front only. I did not bleed the rears. Soft pedal - which did not exist with the old calipers.

Since that time, a service shop flushed and filled the brake system with new Dot4, and should have bled all 4, starting with the Passenger side REAR then Driver REAR then Driver Front and Passenger Front calipers. But I am beginning to wonder if new bleeder screws for the Rear Calipers might be a solve if they could not have tightened them a fully as needed.

 

[BigDaddyBruin]

UPDATE: While I am more than a little embarrassed to admit this, my stupidity/experience might help someone else with this Mod in the future...

I think the cause of my "super soft brake pedal" as a result of my GMT900 Mod is due to inadvertently switching the right and left calipers and installing each on the wrong side!

Why do I think this... because the bleeder screws are at the BOTTOM of the calipers - not the top where they are supposed to be.  So no wonder I am getting no air bubbles on my bleed... because the air is "trapped" at the top of the caliper and the fluid is denser so it exits the caliper from the bottom not allowing the trapped air to escape.

Hoping to get to this in the afternoon, and hoping this does the trick... stay tuned!

 

[jlupien502]

That will do it every time.

 

[Z66Modder]

I remember one costs more than the other as they are not the same.

 

[SupaDave]

Does the 03-04 rear police calipers off the Tahoe fit the 03 Avalanche rear bracket and rotor?

 

[jlupien502]

Does the 03-04 rear police calipers off the Tahoe fit the 03 Avalanche rear bracket and rotor?

I hope so because thats what I have on my shelf waiting to be installed. Lol.
I'll let you know for sure in  couple weeks.

 

[JVZL1]

http://i1282.photobucket.com/albums/a529/ccojulun/IMAG0388_zpsc761f399.jpg?

[img width=800 height=450]http://i1282.photobucket.com/albums/a529/ccojulun/IMAG0389_zps8193a8ec.jpg?t=1369787281

Note: on the image below of the OLD GMT800 calipers, the caliper on the right was purchased at Napa Auto Parts only 6 months ago, and the entire exterior of it was completely rust covered - and I live in Southern California where it NEVER rains. Not a good sign, right?

[/quote]
Please tell me you have jack stands under you vehicle.
There is a family tragedy from not using SAFTY STANDS, his thought he would only be under his for a moment.
Just a story of mine, if the jack is not in my way I will lower to the stands and leave the jack up. I walked over to my tool box heard a pop and under my jack was a puddle of oil. The jack pump popped its seal. This was no overseas special I paid over three hundred for it.
You have a very special helper there keep him safe.[/color][/shadow]

 

[fireforeffect]

Need to ask a question here since it hasn't been answered thru-out this post. I'm not new to mechanix, been turning wrenches for almost 25yrs and getting ready to rebuild the brakes on my '03 Z66.

Are the rear rotors for the '02-'06 swappable for the '07-newer rotors? Looking thru specs and the stock diameter for my '03 Z66 is 13.2", but advertised diameter for replacement rear rotors on any '07-newer Chev truck/SUV is anywhere from 13.2-13.5". Can I buy an inclusive kit for an '07-newer Av or do I need to buy front rotors for an '07-newer and rear rotors for '02-'06? Will the extra 1/4" on the newer rear rotors cause any clearance issues w/ the stock rear caliper/hanger?

Trying to keep this as simple as possible, thx.

 

[Luke M]

I bought myself a brand new set of GMT900 rotors off a tahoe owner on craigslist anticipating on doing this mod when my front brakes need replaced.  I've already done my rears.  I don't think anything is to be gained in the rear.  I believe the diameter of the rears has not changed between generations so any small changes to the rotor spec are probably specific to GMT900.  Since there's no cheap upgrade for the rears, I would use the 02-06 application for the rears and the 07+ for the front.

 

[fireforeffect]

I don't think anything is to be gained in the rear.  I believe the diameter of the rears has not changed between generations so any small changes to the rotor spec are probably specific to GMT900.  

No, they're slightly different... which is why I'm asking. Stock for the '02-06 is 13.2" (according to the factory), but most aftermarket sellers market their rotors as 12.9-13". Most aftermarket for rear rotors for '07-13 are between 13.2-13.6" (if they list the diameter or the rotor). That's why I'm asking... has anyone purchased a complete front/rear kit for the newer model in doing this brake mod and had problems fitting the rears? After researching, I want to buy the Power Stop ceramic/drilled/slotted kit w/ rotors and pads, but can't find where they only sell a kit for the front. Kits I can find are ONLY all front AND rear inclusive.

 

[BigDaddyBruin]

Please tell me you have jack stands under you vehicle.
There is a family tragedy from not using SAFTY STANDS, his thought he would only be under his for a moment.
Just a story of mine, if the jack is not in my way I will lower to the stands and leave the jack up. I walked over to my tool box heard a pop and under my jack was a puddle of oil. The jack pump popped its seal. This was no overseas special I paid over three hundred for it.
You have a very special helper there keep him safe.[/color][/shadow]
[/quote]

Jack stands, in addition to cinder blocks behind the back tires, were all in place. 

 

[redheadedrod]

I need to do this upgrade but I am a bit hesitant...

I have been putting replacing my front brakes off for a little while until I was sure what parts I needed. I have a sticking slide pin on one of my fronts and it caused a really weird wear pattern on the inside of the rotor. I haven't noticed a pulling or anything but I have had a constant whine/vibration from that wheel that I believe is the rotor uneven wearing. (The wheel bearing assembly was replaced with no real change in noise/vibration. And wheel was rebalanced.)

Anyhow no need to beat a dead horse. I need new brakes on the front and I need new rotors, pads and atleast one caliper so I might as well do this upgrade. When I checked at Napa I told them I wanted the brakes for a 2007 Tahoe 4x4 1500. I asked to see the bracket and to look at a bracket for my 2003 avalanche to make sure the bracket bolts matched up...  The Tahoe was WAY bigger with the mounting holes being no where near each other and I wonder if she didn't pull up a 2500 truck maybe?

I am assuming the mounting brackets should match up to one another where they hook onto the spindle.

My truck is a 2003 Avalanche 1500 4x4. I wonder if I should just tell them I have a 2007 Avalanche 1500 4x4. Would that work?

I will likely be getting the parts to do this in the next 2 weeks. Without pulling off the tire and looking I believe I lost the pad on the portion that the caliper slide pin is sticking a couple days ago and the caliper might not be releasing well. I am not going on any long trips until I have this issue resolved. I don't notice any reduction in braking power and the truck doesn't pull when breaking or make any grinding noises. But its past time to change them regardless.

Looking online it looks like the lady at Napa got the right numbers but I am curious if someone can verify for me that these will work.

Loaded Calipers with Ceramic pads:
LE5470
LE5469

I will likely go the cheap route with the rotors and get:
48880279

I show these as being for a 2008 tahoe so I am hoping they work.
I am also hoping the person at napa grabbed the wrong bracket since she pulled just the brackets for comparison sake.

Thanks!

 

[DarkGreyNorthFace]

First off, thank you for all the great info.  I already know I am going with Tahoe 08 front brakes for my 03 North Face.  I have a couple questions that maybe you guys can answer though. 

1.  From what I have read, the GMT900 rear brakes are a single piston caliper and a rotor of the same diameter as the GMT800.  So I read a few posts saying we would get less heat dissapation and less and less stopping power if we converted to the GMT900 in the rear.  My question is, woulld the conversionresult in higher ammounts of force being applied to the front?  If less volume and surface area of pressure is being applied to the rear, would that result in more effective work being applied in the front sine when I press the pedal the master cylinder will make the same amount of hydraulic pressure?

2.  Has anyone done the front, drove it for a while and then done the rear to see if there is an improvement or not?

3.  What are the spreaders?  Do i need the with or without spreaders option?  I will have the parts store show me both parts, but I am sure you fine experts on here can save me the trouble. 

4.  Should I get the police model calipers?  The silicon seals sound like a no brainer, but I figured I would ask anyway. 

5.  A decent slotted and cross drilled rotor with a decent ceramic pad better than the police combo?  I would like to minimize the dust, since I have better things to do in life than clean my wheels.

Thanks again,

Ron

 

[MrZ71]

Thanks allot for the idea! This was a great upgrade! I already had 1 year old calipers with Hawk rotors and pads all the way around but the Upgrade opened up a New world!
I live in Norway so driving Down from the mountins on a road trip I did have a problem With brake fade even With dropping Down into first gear. Exited about trying again tomorrow With this Upgrade.

My GM dealer (My step dad) did not get a hit on the parts numbers in the original post.
I ended up using 19285500 and 19285501 for the calipers.
EBC rotors USR 7372.
EBC pads DP 61830.

 

[jrdeleon0430]

All,

I'm new to Avalanches and would really like to do this upgrade. However, I wanted to clarify that you needed a 17" wheel or higher to do it? Also, what did the 2002 Base Avalanche come with? 16"?

Thanks!

 

[Z66Modder]

All,

I'm new to Avalanches and would really like to do this upgrade. However, I wanted to clarify that you needed a 17" wheel or higher to do it? Also, what did the 2002 Base Avalanche come with? 16"?

Thanks!

You are correct sir, it will not work with 16" wheels. My 02 had 17" wheels and I did this mod.

 

[jrdeleon0430]

Z66modder, I appreciate the clarification. This bums me out, but I'll do the upgrade when I can warrant the cost of the parts and 17" wheels.