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Got some goodies in the mail today

If you're using a regular OBDii reader, it may not read chassis codes. So make sure yours does.

Your issue could be the front diff actuator if the t-case motor works like it should.
OK. So, since the rear diff does drop into the 4Lo ratio, would you think (suspect) the transfer motor/encoder is in fact working?
 
OK. So, since the rear diff does drop into the 4Lo ratio, would you think (suspect) the transfer motor/encoder is in fact working?
Yes I would. If your transfer case actually goes into low gear every time you select 4LO, and also back into 2WD, then I would suspect the encoder is working as it should.

I can easily hear my front diff actuator engaging and disengaging. And if you lift the front of the truck and spin the front prop shaft, the front wheels will turn if the front diff actuator is engaged.
 
Got my plugs and wires installed today. Not too bad of a job assuming you dont run into any issues. Maybe a 2/10 difficulty. 2 of the wires broke off so glad I had some new ones. The old plugs were just some copper Autolite 5245. Haven't driven it yet but will soon.

Looks like my thermostat and hinge pins were returned to RockAuto for some reason. Tracking says damaged in transit.. Hmmm..

Also ordered some new wheels, 20x11.5 to replace the 20x9 that are on there :cool:
Merry Christmas to me. Stay tuned

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So with some encouragement from Edgar, I got my seat bottom replaced. (see his restoration project in this thread below) https://www.chevyavalanchefanclub.c...04-avalanche-1500-z71-diy-restoration.156865/

What a PITA! I prefer mechanics rather than seats, door panels, headliners, etc.. Anyway, the cover is awesome, looks great, perfect match to OEM, seems to be high quality leather, definitely recommend it. I bought my cover from ebay seller u.s.autoseatcover. Mine is leather, dark charcoal, code 692. The original seat wasn't that bad but needed to be replaced.

A couple of tips, take the seat out, don't even attempt to change the cover with the seat bolted in. Takes an E14 and E20 socket to remove. And once the seat is out, take the two 13mm nuts off to remove the seat bottom from the seat (remove from underneath). It has 2 plastic clips toward the rear, and 2 nuts towards the front. Gives much more room to work. The only negative on this cover, the electrical switch area is not pre-cut. My plastic trim was already broken so it was hard to tell exactly where to cut.

Either way, do it, don't wait, and I definitely recommend the seller on ebay.
Now is a good time to clean under the seat. Mine was nasty!

Now I need to find a replacement seat switch trim piece to replace my broken one.

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So with some encouragement from Edgar, I got my seat bottom replaced. (see his restoration project in this thread below) https://www.chevyavalanchefanclub.c...04-avalanche-1500-z71-diy-restoration.156865/

What a PITA! I prefer mechanics rather than seats, door panels, headliners, etc.. Anyway, the cover is awesome, looks great, perfect match to OEM, seems to be high quality leather, definitely recommend it. I bought my cover from ebay seller u.s.autoseatcover. Mine is leather, dark charcoal, code 692. The original seat wasn't that bad but needed to be replaced.

A couple of tips, take the seat out, don't even attempt to change the cover with the seat bolted in. Takes an E14 and E20 socket to remove. And once the seat is out, take the two 13mm nuts off to remove the seat bottom from the seat (remove from underneath). It has 2 plastic clips toward the rear, and 2 nuts towards the front. Gives much more room to work. The only negative on this cover, the electrical switch area is not pre-cut. My plastic trim was already broken so it was hard to tell exactly where to cut.

Either way, do it, don't wait, and I definitely recommend the seller on ebay.
Now is a good time to clean under the seat. Mine was nasty!

Now I need to find a replacement seat switch trim piece to replace my broken one.

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Great job, looks real nice. Now you need that $36 filler stuff for the top panels and the arm rest...
 
I did try to mount my new wheels last night but they're too wide and I can't set the bead. So I have to wait til my bead blaster gets here. Gonna try using an inner tube to seat it also. I'm too chicken to use the starter fluid and fire method..

The tire did fit nicely on the wheel though, I think it will sit nice and flush once aired up. Stay tuned1227212146.jpg
 
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I did try to mount my new wheels last night but they're too wide and I can't set the bead. So I have to wait til my bead blaster gets here. Gonna try using an inner tube to seat it also. I'm too chicken to use the starter fluid and fire method..

The tire did fit nicely on the wheel though, I think it will sit nice and flush once aired up. Stay tunedView attachment 233647

Have you tried using a ratcheting strap around the tire? We used to do that with MC tires that would not easily seat.

Here's a quick link I found doing it on a truck tire, don't watch the whole video as this guy takes way to long to get to the point!

 
Yeah I did try the ratchet strap method, it's worked in the past but not this time. I normally have success with a piece of rubbery foam around the bead on the back side (seat the front side first) just enough to get some pressure in the tire, but after an hour of struggling, I figured it's time for a better method. I've mounted many tires, I have squared 295s on a 20x11 on my BMW X5, and squared 255/35R18 on a 9.5 inch wheel on my M3, no big issue mounting either, but these mud tires just weren't playing along. I cant imagine trying to seat a 12.50 tire bead on a 14" wide wheel!
 
New tires came in today :D
35x13.50R20 Atturo Trail Blade MTS
I figured I can sell my old set.
Stay tuned for the mount and install when I get time. The cheetah bead seater came in today too, haven't opened it yet.

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Scientific comparrison between new and old. Measurement method was recommended by lord Faucci so you know it can be trusted. :geek:
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Also, my seat trim bezel came in. Definitely worth $16. Now I just need one of the switch covers that's missing.

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My el cheapo back up camera came in today. Not a big fan of these type but for $33 I'd like something there for now. It's wireless at least. The one that came in the truck has a broken wire, looks like where it burned on the exhaust. I also may install a double din Apline head unit that I bought a while back for my X5. Then i won't need the extra monitor. But the kenwood single din thats in there now is nice and works great, all steering wheel controls and chimes work. Looks like the PO installed the Metra Axxess adapters necessary. We'll see, maybe a later project.

Also got 2 new keys cut at Lowes today for $3 each. Truck only came with 1 key.. They do work, I tried them.

I have a new pintle style combo hitch for the 20' dovetail overdeck trailer in case I need to do some real work. :p
Better pics of it later when i get a mini ex on it or something. And the 14' dump trailer waiting to go to work too. It's a beast, 5k+ empty.

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Finally had some time this afternoon when the wife and kids weren't home so I mounted the new tires on the new wheels. :p

Truck is still in the shop getting re-geared and locker installed so I have to be patient to mount them on the truck.. Snow predicted this weekend too. But here's a sneak peak...

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The bicycle inner tube method worked very well actually! Didn't need the Cheetah. These tires were way easier to seat than the 35x12.50s though. But I think I could mount those using the tube method too. Just stretch it on, put a little air in it, start seating the tire bead, then pull the tube out while you keep a little air in the tire, a little art method to it but works well. Lube it good so it comes out easy.

Everyone has their own method mounting tires. I'm just a 1 man DIY'er so i have to get creative sometimes. I also use these bead clamp things to keep the bead in the drop down area of the wheel. Easy peasy. Stay tuned for the mount on the Avy when she comes back from the re-gear.

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Yes I would. If your transfer case actually goes into low gear every time you select 4LO, and also back into 2WD, then I would suspect the encoder is working as it should.

I can easily hear my front diff actuator engaging and disengaging. And if you lift the front of the truck and spin the front prop shaft, the front wheels will turn if the front diff actuator is engaged.
I replaced the actuator on the front diff with one from Pick & Pull, replaced all the fluids from front to back with the correct ones. Hallelujah! The 4WD works! Thank you so much for your help!
 
what is this filler stuff you speak of? im very curious

Not sure if it is this thread or some other restoration or seat cover thread that is active, someone used a filler that repairs the leather. It looked pretty good and if I remember correctly, the user was happy with the results. Not sure how durable or even how "good" it really is, I have never used.

However, based on the cost of some ebay replacement leathers (I think around $60) compared to the cost of the filler (I think around $35), I would get the replacement leather. Unless the repair is some minor cracking like the situation in OP I made ...
 
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