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Hard Start when warm

Thanks for tip to post 15....

That pressure after 20 mins seems low...
I would double check injectors...
Maybe even install old ones if they still have them.

 
I wish they still had the original injectors! His argument that it's not the injectors is that they were just replaced and if they were leaking they should throw a misfire code. I may just end up taking it to the dealership to have them do a diagnostic test on the fuel system.
 
I know it's been awhile sense any posts here but i'm having the same issue with my 07 no codes the dealer told me that I need to replace the rest of my injectors one was replaced 3 weeks ago because it had a post nasal drip. :cry: real bad. only hard to start after sitting for about 10 min. after driving.

just checking to see if fixes were found here.

George
 
here are the findings of testing the engine hot, I tried to pinch off the fuel supply line but could not get it to close off, from what I understand I can get a valve to go in the fuel line at the fuel rail to close the line off to do a leak test on the injectors. am going to try to find one and see what I can find out.
925am engine running 60 psi
926am engine off 55 psi
931am engine off 48 psi

George
 

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I am having the exact same issue with my Avy after changing all injectors.. now i have changed all plugs,wires,O2s and fuel pump assembly. Still starts hard when hot and sometimes puff of smoke when it fires up warm.
 
I am having the exact same issue with my Avy after changing all injectors.. now i have changed all plugs,wires,O2s and fuel pump assembly. Still starts hard when hot and sometimes puff of smoke when it fires up warm.

Hey y'all,

Long time reader, first time posting a question though. I'm getting SUPER frustrated with an issue with my 2008 LTZ with 337,000km. Several months ago, I had an initial code thrown where it was indicating that my rear O2 sensors were failing (don't remember the code off-hand). So I took it to my mechanic, who has been really good to date. They check it out and tell me they're bad and that my cats are also running way hotter than they should. He also suggests replacing the front O2 sensors as well, since they don't appear to have been replaced before (at least not since I owned the truck). So we replace the four O2 sensors, spark plugs all around (they were due to be replaced) and the two catalytic converters...a few days later, check engine light comes back but this time it's throwing a P1133 and P1153 for the front O2 sensors. They do a leak test on the exhaust and nothing found, checked the intake and no leaks, Mass Airflow sensor tests okay. Clear the codes and lets me drive it for a few days to see what happens. I drove it for a few weeks and the code comes and goes, with no rhyme or reason. I look at my cheapy scan tool and it keeps getting triggered by what it lists as TID$80 and $81 Switches Units; the min is 76 and it's going down to 65 at times, throwing the code. So I give my mechanic the info and they scan it on their tool and they can see that as well, but when they check it, it's over the minimum. Take it back home and drive it with the CEL coming on and off every few days. Then a month later, my oil pressure sensor went out and take it to my mechanic. While doing the sensor, they're going to do the intake manifold gasket and are optimistic that will fix it as they had another GM that had the same codes and replaced the intake manifold gasket and fixed it. No such luck in my case as the code is back after it went through a relearn process (their words). Back to the garage and they went through everything again, they changed the spark plugs again, saying that they seemed to be fuel fouled, but that didn't change anything.

Now here's where things get even more frustrating...they check the fuel injectors and they tell me that all the injectors are streaming out fuel instead of it being a mist and they're certain that's going to fix the two O2 codes coming up. So I tell them to change the injectors and now not only do the codes not go away, it now takes several seconds for the truck to start...but not first thing in the morning. It starts without issue first thing but if I shut it off and start it 10-15 minutes later, it cranks for several seconds before it start up and sometimes, I'll have to try it a second time before it starts. Since they did that, I ended up replacing the Mass Airflow sensor and that seems to have made the P1133 code disappear. Yesterday, they sent my truck to have the PCM reprogrammed as they found a TSB for that problem. So far, I don't have the P1153 code come up but the hard starting issue continues. I know he's going to say that the fuel pump needs to be replaced next, but it NEVER started like that until they changed the injectors and I tend to think that there's a faulty injector that's dumping fuel when it shuts down. Any suggestions would be GREATLY appreciated before going a fuel pump route.

I should mention that with my scan tool, the fuel pressure with the key on shows around 58-60psi and then when started it stays there for a bit before dropping to 43psi on average.
Hey y'all,

Long time reader, first time posting a question though. I'm getting SUPER frustrated with an issue with my 2008 LTZ with 337,000km. Several months ago, I had an initial code thrown where it was indicating that my rear O2 sensors were failing (don't remember the code off-hand). So I took it to my mechanic, who has been really good to date. They check it out and tell me they're bad and that my cats are also running way hotter than they should. He also suggests replacing the front O2 sensors as well, since they don't appear to have been replaced before (at least not since I owned the truck). So we replace the four O2 sensors, spark plugs all around (they were due to be replaced) and the two catalytic converters...a few days later, check engine light comes back but this time it's throwing a P1133 and P1153 for the front O2 sensors. They do a leak test on the exhaust and nothing found, checked the intake and no leaks, Mass Airflow sensor tests okay. Clear the codes and lets me drive it for a few days to see what happens. I drove it for a few weeks and the code comes and goes, with no rhyme or reason. I look at my cheapy scan tool and it keeps getting triggered by what it lists as TID$80 and $81 Switches Units; the min is 76 and it's going down to 65 at times, throwing the code. So I give my mechanic the info and they scan it on their tool and they can see that as well, but when they check it, it's over the minimum. Take it back home and drive it with the CEL coming on and off every few days. Then a month later, my oil pressure sensor went out and take it to my mechanic. While doing the sensor, they're going to do the intake manifold gasket and are optimistic that will fix it as they had another GM that had the same codes and replaced the intake manifold gasket and fixed it. No such luck in my case as the code is back after it went through a relearn process (their words). Back to the garage and they went through everything again, they changed the spark plugs again, saying that they seemed to be fuel fouled, but that didn't change anything.

Now here's where things get even more frustrating...they check the fuel injectors and they tell me that all the injectors are streaming out fuel instead of it being a mist and they're certain that's going to fix the two O2 codes coming up. So I tell them to change the injectors and now not only do the codes not go away, it now takes several seconds for the truck to start...but not first thing in the morning. It starts without issue first thing but if I shut it off and start it 10-15 minutes later, it cranks for several seconds before it start up and sometimes, I'll have to try it a second time before it starts. Since they did that, I ended up replacing the Mass Airflow sensor and that seems to have made the P1133 code disappear. Yesterday, they sent my truck to have the PCM reprogrammed as they found a TSB for that problem. So far, I don't have the P1153 code come up but the hard starting issue continues. I know he's going to say that the fuel pump needs to be replaced next, but it NEVER started like that until they changed the injectors and I tend to think that there's a faulty injector that's dumping fuel when it shuts down. Any suggestions would be GREATLY appreciated before going a fuel pump route.

I should mention that with my scan tool, the fuel pressure with the key on shows around 58-60psi and then when started it stays there for a bit before dropping to 43psi on average.
Not sure if your issue was ever fixed but I had a similar issue. Hard start, weird idle, especially hard to start after fueling, … I replaced the purge valve solenoid and that took care of most of the issues. Here’s a link that could help you out. Good luck!
 
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