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Hardwiring issues - Ignition Switched 12v

J

jhawk19

New Member
Joined
Feb 5, 2018
Messages
4
Location
South Carolina
Hello...I've had my Avalanche for about 3 weeks now and I am installing a Dash Camera, so I've come here for help. 

I'd like to hardwire to an ignition switch inside the cab.  My options are the mirror, the driver side fuse panel and possibly the passenger side panel or the distribution box under the dash.

I'm reading that everything in the interior fuse box is "always on". I'm also reading that right by the driver kick panel down below is a distribution box, which has acc/constant and ground outlet, so I guess the micro fuse tap I bought is worthless to me now.

I came across this 10 year old thread and the photos are missing now (old links).

http://www.chevyavalanchefanclub.com/cafcna/index.php/topic,74956.0.html

I've read that I can tap the mirror plug wires, but which one(s)?
I've read that on the passenger side of the dash, I can pop off the cover panel and tap into a switched source there...but which one(s)?

Can anyone point me in the right direction?
 
A test light would come in handy, there are several under the dash in the distribution box , i think its labeled "upfitters" or something like that.  BTW welcome to the forum and enjoy the wealth of information you will find here!

Didit
 
WHat year avy do you have?
 
Didit said:
A test light would come in handy, there are several under the dash in the distribution box , i think its labeled "upfitters" or something like that.
Click to expand...

I have a multimeter, but I was hoping for a quick answer and/or photo here...also, how am I connecting to it?  Soldering directly to a wire?  Tapping the wire?  If there's an empty slot in the "upfitters", how do I connect a wire to an empty plug?

ygmz, I have a 2007 LTZ
 
I recently read this post:

http://www.chevyavalanchefanclub.com/cafcna/index.php?topic=149906.msg2157809#msg2157809

Maybe it will help?  :dunno:
 
If you have a digital meter always use that. NEVER use a test light when testing circuits you are unsure of. Fuse box is likely "OK" but it is a bad practice to get into. The difference is that a digital meter will pull VERY little current and a test light has to light a bulb. An analog meter uses a small amount of electricity to move the needle and also should not be used. They DO have test lights that are deemed "Digital circuit safe" which uses LED's instead of bulbs and in some cases have batteries so they don't pull any current. if you ever do use a test light insure it it one of these digital circuit safe. Your $5 test light at the local auto parts store is not likely to be one of these. Harbor Freight has a digital meter that they give away free with tools and when not one of their give always is under $10. I have like 4 of them around here.

The issue with test lights is they are intended to test lighting fixtures and normally pull a current. Was a irreplaceable tool before electronics became a part of every system in your car and they didn't damage other circuits since no electronics were involved. If you use a test light and touch it to the wrong line in more modern vehicles, such as a BCM control line that is only to control a relay, you can blow that module requiring an expensive replacement.

 
jhawk19 said:
YEP!  Got it!!  (y)
Click to expand...

I didn't take a photo or remember the color of the wire I tapped up there. It seemed like it came off the main harness and it was with a couple of wires that went towards the front of the roof console. All I am powering is a dash cam and it doesn't pull much amps.
 
Calicak89 said:
:E:
Click to expand...

So you don't agree with the don't use a test light? With a standard test light which is realistically just a ground wire with a 12 or 24 volt light bulb in it and the positive lead running to whatever your testing the bulb takes current to light. If you happen to tap a 5 volt data line and try to light the bulb you will likely damage the module it is hooked to. This can also be an issue with relay drivers as well. There are other circuits you can damage if you connect a test light to it that are not intended to supply the amperage required to power a bulb. 

This was driven home many times in installer school when I was there. I only use a test light to test light sockets. Fuse panels are a little different but I still cringe if someone suggests using one...
 
KEEP PERSONAL ATTACKS OFF THIS SITE.

 
redheadedrod said:
So you don't agree with the don't use a test light? With a standard test light which is realistically just a ground wire with a 12 or 24 volt light bulb in it and the positive lead running to whatever your testing the bulb takes current to light. If you happen to tap a 5 volt data line and try to light the bulb you will likely damage the module it is hooked to. This can also be an issue with relay drivers as well. There are other circuits you can damage if you connect a test light to it that are not intended to supply the amperage required to power a bulb. 

This was driven home many times in installer school when I was there. I only use a test light to test light sockets. Fuse panels are a little different but I still cringe if someone suggests using one...
Click to expand...
I do agree with not using a test light.
What I also agree with is all posters, not just yourself, reading the thread prior to replying and staying on topic.
 
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