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Help for the unexperienced...Full Time DRLs.

chad2fw

Full Member
Joined
Jun 14, 2003
Messages
2,761
Location
Fleming Island, FL
I've checked all the 20 mile long amber and full time drl threads, directions plus the pictures and graphs and I still can't figure it out. Where do I go to get to the DRL module? Errr. :E: I know I'm not this stupid, but what is left out everytime with all these directions is where to start. I refuse to do the under knee bolster soldering mod.

-Where do I start ... and then what to do...

Maybe the mods need to shorten up those other threads. They're too long to get any info off of. Both the Full Time DRL and Amber DRL threads consist of worthless headlight and fog questions.....is my frusteration evident yet :8: :E: :7:
 
Don't follow me, I'm lost too. All I know is you have to flip the breraker box over, paddle its bottom, yank the purple box out, move the orange wires up 1, no no, it was the green box and plaid wires..........................
 
I found this pic at XRover's website

DRLMod.JPG


but where is this? How do I get there?
 
OK under the dash right under the steering column is the BCM (the lower dash panel must be removed for access)- there are 2 harness plugs into the BCM - the one on the left side (drivers side) has a green and black wire (Far left corner of the harness) which can be spliced into with a scotch lock (do not cut the wire into just piggyback the auxillary ground to it) and then an auxilary ground wire run over to a stud (good metal ground surface) just up and to the left of the BCM. This will supply a constant trigger to the DRL relay for DRLS to remain on when the key is in the on position. I have done this and so has Edward K - if you are unclear after this post send him a PM he has pictures he can send.
This only works on the 02 models - but I see thats what you have!
 
chad2fw said:
I found this pic at XRover's website

DRLMod.JPG


but where is this? How do I get there?

That is one way for sure - that box is under the hood - the other way I listed above is easier - well easier to me anyway!
 
TexAVfan said:
That is one way for sure - that box is under the hood - the other way I listed above is easier - well easier to me anyway!
What about '03. Congrats on 2500 BTW. Alittle early I know but I wanted to be first.
 
Dazed Dave said:
What about '03. Congrats on 2500 BTW. Alittle early I know but I wanted to be first.
Well I aint there yet - BUT this is one closer.
As far as 03 goes you cannot do it this way - not sure how to do it on 03 - you will need to hear from a 03 owner who has accomplished this!

Thanks BTW for the congrats - wont be long now!
 
I tried the under the hood mod as well, pulled the cover off the power dist center and removed the fender bracket.....could not see this green and other color box that the wires hook into :E: I gave up and only run amber during the day :6:
 
chad2fw said:
How do I do the under the hood mod. I'm not touching the steering column or anything around it!

There is no soldering needed and you dont have to do anything to the steering column or steering wheel. This is one of the easiest mods I know - you dont have to over think it! There is nothing to be scared of. Send a PM to Edward K and he can send you pics of what to do and where!
 
To access the underside of the hood fuse panel, remove the fender bracket...
Remove the cover lid for the hood fuse panel
remove the outer cover of the hood fuse panel. I found 2 little catches on engine side of the hood fuse panel, pull those open fuse than the rest of the cover will come out easily...
Once all the covers are off, you need to flip the hood fuse panel up and this is accomplished by pushing the release clip which is on the fender side of the hood fuse panel, once released just flip it up towards the engine. Then you see all the wires and connectors...
Just follow XROVERs direction from this point....

*************************************************************
03 Owners.... IGNORE BELOW!!!!!!!!! Please use the post further down from WesTexAvy
*************************************************************
Now for the 03 I would recommend installing a diode from C1 to B2 on this same connector.. O3 the blue wires are at B2 and on the 02 they are on B1... Please make sure that the diode is rated for the DRL lamps... suggest you use at least a 5amp rating.... 28 Watts x 2= 56 Watts / 12 volts = 4.8 amps..... diode symbol should point from C1 to B2 ( on green connector block, which is Connector 4 )... This connection will supply power to the DRL when the park lamps are turned on, which is when the BCM turns off the DRLs....
The 10 amp fuse for FRT Park should be able to support the extra 2 lamps.. but just.. ( this is UNTESTED... so verify before making permanent installation ).......
**************************************************************
 
chad2fw said:
How do I do the under the hood mod. I'm not touching the steering column or anything around it!
Chad2fw, here are some pics from post #118 in the Full Time DRLs Thread that may help illustrate how you get to it:

This shows a 2003, but it applies to the 2002 as well..

WTA_NRL1b.jpg

 

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dichris said:
.....Now for the 03 I would recommend installing a diode from C1 to B2 on this same connector.. O3 the blue wires are at B2 and on the 02 they are on B1... Please make sure that the diode is rated for the DRL lamps... suggest you use at least a 5amp rating.... 28 Watts x 2= 56 Watts / 12 volts = 4.8 amps..... diode symbol should point from C1 to B2 ( on green connector block, which is Connector 4 )... This connection will supply power to the DRL when the park lamps are turned on, which is when the BCM turns off the DRLs....
The 10 amp fuse for FRT Park should be able to support the extra 2 lamps.. but just.. ( this is UNTESTED... so verify before making permanent installation ).......
For the 03 I would suggest the following connection that is low power (fraction of an amp) and lets the original circuits handle their respective loads safetly. This lets the relays/wiring/fuses handle their designed load and the BCM now will power the DRL relay full time with minimum additional power requirements.
The following quote is also from the Full Time DRLs Thread post #227.

WesTexAVY said:
TN AV03 said:
"There is an updated Full Time DRL mod for the '03 coming that retains the use of the headlight switch for turning them off and also makes the work with the key fob for night time keyless entry.
WesTexAvy And Sovereinmgmt have it done, I'm doing it tomorrow for testing purposes. After we know it's ok, I'm sure Chris will post it for everyone."

Still waiting for the post on this for my '03 :0: WesTexAvy and Sovereinmgmt, any updates ???

Sorry for the delay with this 2003 Better Method DRL/NRL mod. These instructions are for the 2003 Avalanche ONLY! so here we go................

Shopping for parts:
At Radio-Shack you will need to take $3.00 with you for some 50 volt/1 amp diodes and a pack of ScotchLok Tap connectors.
Diodes : RS part #276-1101 (1N4001 Industry #). This is a pkg. of 2 for 59 cents. I believe all Radio-Shacks have gone to the big metal drawer/bin cabinets for these items.......if so these diodes are in drawer #B-1

Red Squeeze Tap Connectors: RS part #64-3053. This is a pkg. of 7 for $1.99. These are in drawer #B-13. (These are actually 3M brand Scotchloks).

**Edit: See post #239 below for issues resolved when using these tap connectors**

Modification Theory and Results:
2003 DRL/NRL mod using a diode keeps (or takes the DRL back to) it's original circuit relay and fuse with modified control. The DRL works as factory except at night it takes a relay trigger from the Park lamp relay so this does 2 things: 1. DRL lights on at night and , 2. using the Headlight defeat (manual off) position of headlight switch turns everything off.

Tools Needed:
13mm Socket and pliers. (7mm nut-driver only if you need to REVERSE the prior DRL/NRL mod of moving the blue wires)

I don't want to make this post longer than necessary...so I will just link to prior information already posted. Sorry for bouncing around for info :cautious:.

Gaining access to it post. DISREGARD PICS IN POST #119 IF YOUR HAVE NOT DONE THE "MOVE THE DRL WIRE MOD"

If you DID do the "2003 Move 1 wire DRL/NRL mod", you must REVERSE it now. Refer to the
Move 1 wire post for pin location.

The Better Method DRL/NRL mod:

1. Connect the Cathode side (white stripe) of the diode to pin #F11 White wire on the C1 white (light grey) block with a red tap-in connector.
2. Connect the other end of the diode to pin #E3 Lt Green w/ Black stripe on the same block with another tap-in connector.
WTA_NRL03diode.jpg


:0: :0:If you would like to do the "All 4 Headlights on High" mod, you might do it now since you already have the parts and you are in the same wiring location (y) Follow this
2003 Diode for All4onHigh post for instructions.

**For the 2002 Avalanche, I was not able to achieve this mod at the under-hood fuse block...I did achieve this mod at the under dash BCM location. Now I am not a fan of any wiring mods in this location for various reasons....so I don't think I will post this info until I come up with a better location for the mod :-X :cautious:.

Did I mention that this is for the 2003 model and not the 2002 model??? I am sure this violates vehicle codes in various states, and may result in a traffic violation or vehicle inspection failure (you bunch of OUTLAWS >:D ). I would like to stress my favorite XRover WARNING below also applies to this post:
XRover said:
This mod I am sure will void the warranty but unless someone is actually looking underneath the electrical box, they will never see it. Please do not attempt this unless you are VERY competant and knowledgeable in electrical systems and using a multimeter.
............I am in no way telling anyone to attempt this. If you understand what I have done and it makes sense to you then you can do whatever you want.

If it is a bit confusing, please don't attempt this because you can fry your electrical system if you tap into the wrong wire.......

If you think I am just plain crazy,
Get in line... :cool:
 
WesTexAvy

Thanks for updating the requirements for full time DRLs on the 03... The method you show in great detail is the MUCH preferred method.....
Also you mentioned,

Modification Theory and Results:
2003 DRL/NRL mod using a diode keeps (or takes the DRL back to) it's original circuit relay and fuse with modified control. The DRL works as factory except at night it takes a relay trigger from the Park lamp relay so this does 2 things: 1. DRL lights on at night and , 2. using the Headlight defeat (manual off) position of headlight switch turns everything off.


This is only true in the USA... Canadian AV's do not have the defeat (manual off) position....

As for this FTDRL mod.. I chose not to use it as I am using the Night Low Powered DRL's... with turn signal feature for night time driving....

dichris
 
Ok well thanks for all the replys. I finally got it...Looks fantastic. My friends said that I look like I have the whole lighting section of Home Depot on the froint of my truck (I drive with Fogs/DRLs on). Eventually I want to post the information I gained through the PMs and the posts here so it will be easier for people to figure out. Maybe somebody can do the same for the 2003. I used a combination of XRover's instructions on the other post..his website's picture..the instructions he gave me through a PM...and the fuse box cover removal pics on this thread...and some determination.

Modding is not for the weak at heart!
 
OK under the dash right under the steering column is the BCM (the lower dash panel must be removed for access)- there are 2 harness plugs into the BCM - the one on the left side (drivers side) has a green and black wire (Far left corner of the harness) which can be spliced into with a scotch lock (do not cut the wire into just piggyback the auxillary ground to it) and then an auxilary ground wire run over to a stud (good metal ground surface) just up and to the left of the BCM. This will supply a constant trigger to the DRL relay for DRLS to remain on when the key is in the on position.


Ok sucked it in... worked up my courage. :rolleyes: :rolleyes:
popped the lower panel, found the wire, scotch clipped it to the metal framing right there,... :0:
walah.... piece of cake... under 10 minutes... (y) (y)

Ok what's next?! ;D ;D :cool:
 
danlwil said:
Ok what's next?! ;D ;D :cool:

Wig-Wag em with the turn signals >:D >:D
(Did the mine last week and her 03 today :cool: )
 
allright. I thought I did it correctly however my '03 WBH has the low beam turn signal light on instead of the brighter DRL :-[ ???. I'll open her back up in the morning but I was awfully careful and am shure i tapped the correct wires. I hope the wires aren't different between clad and non clad :6:.
 
brewcoll said:
allright. I thought I did it correctly however my '03 WBH has the low beam turn signal light on instead of the brighter DRL :-[ ???. I'll open her back up in the morning but I was awfully careful and am shure i tapped the correct wires. I hope the wires aren't different between clad and non clad :6:.
Sorry it didn't go right the first time brewcoll :6:.
Best guess:
If during the daytime you have DRLs and Park lamps on,
and at night you have a normal lighting appearance......
then the diode is in backwards. The side with the white band should connect to the white wire (White to White).
HTH
Let me know if you need help (y)
 
I figured out the problem. One of the friggen' wire tap connectors did't work :8: When I opened her up to make sure I wired it correctly (which I had) and fiddled with the wires with the lights turned on, it started flashing on and off as I wigled it. Figured out whitch connector it was, took it off, and soldered the friggen thing. Works like a champ now :cool:. I just hope one of the other taps doesn't decide to do the same.
Thanks for the help though!
 
brewcoll said:
I figured out the problem. One of the friggen' wire tap connectors did't work :8: When I opened her up to make sure I wired it correctly (which I had) and fiddled with the wires with the lights turned on, it started flashing on and off as I wigled it. Figured out whitch connector it was, took it off, and soldered the friggen thing. Works like a champ now :cool:. I just hope one of the other taps doesn't decide to do the same.
Thanks for the help though!
Brewcoll, which brand/ where did you buy your tap connectors??
This is a pic illustrating the problem and simple fix for the 3M brand tap connectors (which RadioShack sells).
WTA_TapCons.jpg


This is post #239 from the Full Time DRL thread.
This may help future DRL/NRL modders (y)
 
Yes i remember when I was doing it that the sides would work better if they were both small. They came from RS but it was bin B14 ;)
 
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