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How to do alignment on lifted Av ?

DarkSky

Full Member
Joined
Oct 25, 2012
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239
2.5" front, 1.5" rear.  275/70R18 tires.

I needed an alignment done, and while I was in there the tech came into the waiting room to tell me that because it was lifted, he could align the tires so they're POINTING straight, but the lift was making the tire camber (the way they're tilted) which will lead to uneven tread wear.

camber:  http://www.popularmechanics.com/cm/popularmechanics/images/camber-tire-de.jpg

Does anyone know of an easy fix so this can be properly corrected during alignment?
 
How was the lift done, we need a few details in order to help. Maybe take it to a good four wheel shop
 
msdinsp said:
How was the lift done, we need a few details in order to help. Maybe take it to a good four wheel shop

Oops sorry - 2.5" spacers on top of front struts, 1.5" spacer on rears.
 
Camber is adjustable on Chev trucks, you loosen the upper control arm nuts off, then rotate the bolt. The bolt is attached to cam plates that have a slot in them, and that slot goes over a nub on the frame. When you rotate it the cam plates force the bolt to move inboard and outboard, changing camber (and caster, since both bolts have the cam plates). The factory plates have plastic in them that prevents them from rotating, but it can be melted out with a torch. If they don't allow enough movement you can get aftermarket caster/camber plates with a wider range of movement, but with your relatively modest lift the factory ones should work fine

Here's a pic of what they look like. These are aftermarket ones, but the factory ones are similar:

86375.jpg


By the way, if the alignment "tech" didn't know this, he shouldn't be doing alignments...
 
Just4Kixx said:
Camber is adjustable on Chev trucks, you loosen the upper control arm nuts off, then rotate the bolt. The bolt is attached to cam plates that have a slot in them, and that slot goes over a nub on the frame. When you rotate it the cam plates force the bolt to move inboard and outboard, changing camber (and caster, since both bolts have the cam plates). The factory plates have plastic in them that prevents them from rotating, but it can be melted out with a torch. If they don't allow enough movement you can get aftermarket caster/camber plates with a wider range of movement, but with your relatively modest lift the factory ones should work fine

Thanks for this GREAT info!  Now, the parts I highlighted above in bold... so, can my factory setup have the camber adjusted, or no?
 
Yes, you should still be able to adjust them. You might need to heat them a little bit to melt the plastic so you can rotate them, or you can remove them completely and knock the plastic out. I'd recommend the heat. It won't take a lot of heat, you can probably get it with a propane torch. You only need aftermarket plates if there is not enough range of adjustment in your factory ones (in other words, if you crank them all the way and still can't get camber within spec)
 
Just4Kixx said:
Yes, you should still be able to adjust them. You might need to heat them a little bit to melt the plastic so you can rotate them, or you can remove them completely and knock the plastic out. I'd recommend the heat. It won't take a lot of heat, you can probably get it with a propane torch. You only need aftermarket plates if there is not enough range of adjustment in your factory ones (in other words, if you crank them all the way and still can't get camber within spec)

Thanks again!  And, what are those parts called in the pic you posted above?  In case I wanted to order them...
 
i have the ready lift kit on my 08 avy, 2.25 front 1.5 inch rear. no extra parts were needed for an alignment.... maybe you should take it to a different shop
 
I am going to have my AV aligned this week or next, been riding without it aligned for a couple weeks now because the tech said it wasnt off barely at all, I just made sure to not drive too fast. Will be going to a alignment shop that is used to lifted trucks. My old man has several friends that refuse to drive a truck that isnt lifted over 6 inches and they always go there so thats where I am going. Will let you guys know how it turned out. My current setup is a 3.5 in front and 1.5 in back lift from supreme suspension. A spacer on the top and bottom of front struts where they bolt on and a coil spacer out back. On top of that I also have 2 inch wheel spacers on all four corners so I am hoping they can get it right
 
Naw man I really like it, it looks really good level. I still dont like the way the front comes more to a point with that hood and I really want to find a hood that is bumper up and high in the front and then is level all the way back to the windshield. I just dont like the whole pointed nose thing. I am going to be higher once I get my lift kit next summer. Going with a 7.5" rough country lift. 7.5 in front and 5 in the back. Will put that on with the HD tie rod sleeves, kicker bars, new yukon gears and bearings in the rear axle, 18 inch xd cranks and 35 inch mud tires
 
DarkSky said:
Thanks again!  And, what are those parts called in the pic you posted above?  In case I wanted to order them...

I'd call them a "caster/camber kit", or you might just call them "Upper control arm bolts". I know you can get them aftermarket, from places like NAPA, but like I said, your factory ones should offer enough range to get the job done
 
Old thread, but hoping I can get a response. When adjusting those bolts, which way is negative and which is positive? Replaced my upper arms and ended up with +2 on driver side and +1.75 on passenger side.
 
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