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How To Relocate Trailer Plug Into Bumper

Walked into Advance Auto, say the Hoppy/Hopkins 40955 for $24.99 and couldn't resist  Took all of 20 mins to install.  Ten minutes of that was removing the old bracket.  I took a hammer and whacked it front and back 2-3x's until I could grab it with my hand and rock/bend a crease and it tore off.  I didn't want to put a grinder or torch that close to my painted bumper.  I will try the dremel trick to clean the residual metal off.  I will post pics later.
 
nice....dremel is the way to go....but a file may be quicker and easier (cordless too).
 
I went the Hoppy route today  :love:
 

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djhype7 said:
*WARNING*  Keep the spring at the top of the hinge well lubed...  it will rust quickly in wet or wintry weather!

Thanks for the tip  :love:
 
I used the stock one. I removed the back plastic that keeps it in place and used some stainless bolts on the top and bottom under the cover to keep it in place. Also had the bumper sprayed with armorthane bed liner inside & out  (y)

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Heres a bigger pic also
 
Awesome! I'm so doing this next! I've been wanting to do this for some time because every time i go off road my harness gets slammed.  I've had to push it back down so many times the bracket is starting to come off and the cover and most of the rest of the plastic is gone.  Its just barely holding on.  So needless to say I'm going to be getting the Hoppy one, no reusing the stocker.  This looks like a great little mod!  Whoever thought of it, Thanks!
 
Found a great deal on the Hopkins plug, part number 40955, that everyone is using.  At true value its only $11.64. http://www.idealtruevalue.com/servlet/the-71074/Detail On the other site thats listed here its over $30.  I'm ordering it today but I won't be able to install for a few weeks.  The good news is that when I do install it, I'll be installing the cup holders too!

Pimp my bumper!  :woohoo:
 
djhype7 said:
*WARNING*  Keep the spring at the top of the hinge well lubed...  it will rust quickly in wet or wintry weather!

The spring never got rusty but I cracked the cover lifting it to high the other day  :E:

I already replaced it  :love:
 
cadboy1 said:
The spring never got rusty but I cracked the cover lifting it to high the other day  :E:

I already replaced it  :love:

Mine seemed to deteriorate, first one hinge, then the other kind of broke into little bits.

Did you replace the whole plug, or just the door?
 
djhype7 said:
Mine seemed to deteriorate, first one hinge, then the other kind of broke into little bits.

Did you replace the whole plug, or just the door?


I replaced the whole plug. I don't think you can replace just the door. I will just be more carefull when I lift it :D
 
Here is mine!
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While I was at it I trimmed the cladding on the passenger side of the trailer hitch to make it more symmetrical. Great mod!
 
I know this thread is very old; but couldn't find a more recent one!  Has anybody done this mod on a 2010?  Same plug still apply?  Wanting to do mod on my 2010 Z71.
 
if you have an existing plug and you just wish to relocate, look for a flat area with clearance behind it. go for it!! someone has to be first!!  (y)
 
Going to do it next week.  AV  going to body shop for replacement of left tubular (nerf) bar & rear bumper cladding; so having them do it then.
 
Are/were there pics with this post?
I'm considering doing this mod, now that I have a boat.

I'm confused. Now, they appear. Wait, some are there. But, I don't see any in the original post.  :E:

EJ
 
Wow. Talk about your easy, and cheap mods.  :eek:
If this plug gets wet at the boat dock,  :E:
Gotta change that back-up light though.
 

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I did like the 4 way pin connector addition on the Hopkins kit but the whole thing looked cheap and the shinny plastic I did not like. Wish is was all under one cover.

Since the flap on my stock connector has been gone for awhile and the metal connectors are nice and rusty I went with a Pollak 11-893. Pollak does make a stock twist one 11-916 but since I just relocated mine to the bumper the square 11-893 works better with its 4 mounting screws. Also think it looks better on the bumper being square instead of the odd twist/factory one. $12.14 on Amazon with free 2 day shipping through Amazon Prime.

 

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Removed the old plug bracket. And, I liked the cleaner look so much, I removed that back-up light I put in a while back. And, trimmed the cladding.
I may put in the back-up lights in the bumper step mod.
However, while I was working on the bracket, I noticed the hitch was awfully rusty. Plan on removing cleaning and repainting the hitch tomorrow.

EJ

Edited: Look here for repainted hitch.
 

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Installed my new Curt hitch today which necessitated relocating the wiring plug.  I used the Pollak 11893 since it has four holes for mounting and uses the factory electrical connector. 

Went to Home Depot and bought a 2" bi-metal hole saw and four 10-32 x 1" stainless bolts with stainless cut washers and stainless nylock nuts.

Very quick mod.  The hole saw cut through the bumper with ease, then I fitted the new plug and marked for the four bolt holes.  Drilled those holes, refitted the new plug and secured with new stainless bolts/nuts.  Disconnected the factory electrical connector from the old plug and snapped onto the new plug.  Prolly took about 15 minutes total and looks awesome.  Also much easier to install/remove the locking hitch pin without the plug in the way.

When removing the old factory hitch and plug, I noticed the factory plug is made by Pollak.  Prolly why the new one looks so similar to the old one, and looks like a factory install.

I also trimmed off the cladding on the passenger side of the hitch tube with a utility knife.  Looks very clean.  Everyone should do this quick, easy mod.
 
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