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How To Relocate Trailer Plug Into Bumper

I couldn't find a more current thread.  I relocated my trailer plug this weekend, and thank all the previous posters for giving me the confidence.

I had an open faced 7 Blade plug, attached to lower bumper area.

I purchased the Pollak PK12-724 from E-Trailer, and thought I could just plug it into the existing, and not have to do any wiring, but the male end adapter was 7 pin (my error).  I called E-Trailer, and they didn't have a 7 blade to 7 Blade Plug adapter.

I ended up cutting the old plug off, and cutting the adapter end of the new plug.  The wire colors on the new plug didn't match the existing wiring on the truck, but I figured it out using the old removed plug.
All the lights tested out okay after installation.

Was nervous about drilling the hole, I made a jig, to help me hold it in place, but then removed it after I got it going.  I used a medium sized battery operated drill, and got thru the bumper pretty quick.

To removed the old plug holder, I used a 3 lbs hammer, and a crow bar, and got it off reasonably clean.

I like the way it looks, and once again, I thank the previous posters.
 

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This is something that should of been done at factory.  I just picked up a 2012 LT and the plug down low not only isnt clean looking, but also subjected to more road debris and of course getting knocked off by accident from whatever.

I know other trucks like Ford and Dodge do the in bumper plug, so dont know why Chevy didnt do it. 

May or may not do this mod, antyhing with drilling scares me, so may have to take it somewhere.
 
Finally found my round tuit and did this hopkin 40955 and a 2 inch hole saw did the trick.

2012-11-06_14-17-47_63_zps5b51569b.jpg



2012-11-06_15-56-02_248_zpscff73380.jpg
 
I just read through this thread and this will be the next thing done to my girl. I have a new hitch ordered so this is kinda a "have to". I appreciate the pictures, they give me a little more confidence in cutting up my truck.
 
I just did this mod for a friend at a modding party... Make sure you buy a good quality Bi-Metal 2" hole saw, we chewed thru 3 cheap hole saws before we spent $10..99 on the proper one. The Bi Metal 2" went thru the bumper no problem, just remember to keep the hole saw cool and lubed with WD-40 or cutting fluid as you go.

Also twist and remove the old plug and take it to the auto parts store. Make sure you spend the 5-6 extra bucks and get the plug that comes with a harness (you will not use the new pigtail harness, but you will be able to insert the factory harness right into the new plug) This will save you from having to cut the GM harness and splice and solder all the connections.  (y)

51FSNi0B65L._SY300_.jpg


 
Finished my "pollak" plug mod. The part is Hopkins now though. I also wired in my trailer backup cam through the plug.   You can see my clever install. It's Hooked up to the nav screen through my lockpick 550. Works pretty good! Now I just need to complete the trailer portion.

And yes I mounted it sideways intentionally. Otherwise I have to put my head between my legs to plug it in.






 
LOL
I did get this done last summer but never got around to posting pics.
Great idea to add the backup camera plug there although I think you'll need to find a good plastic cover to keep it from rusting in the elements if you don't have one already.
 
Dluvr22 said:
LOL
I did get this done last summer but never got around to posting pics.
Great idea to add the backup camera plug there although I think you'll need to find a good plastic cover to keep it from rusting in the elements if you don't have one already.
I don't have anything... but I'm keeping my eyes open.

When I hooked it up through my lockpick, it didn't work properly.  The lockpick is combining the standard backup camera with the new backup camera when I put the truck into reverse.  So I have to sort out why that is happening. 
 
I wired my trailer cam up to my Lockpick by using an RCA extension to go from the Lockpick to the side of the center console.

I simply unplug the RCA video line coming from the tailgate bezel camera and plug in the video line from the camera mounted on the trailer.

I used a cheap ($15) camera and adjusted it so that the last line on the guide is right where the end of the ramp door drops. Works great!!

CAM2.jpg




 
@Douglas
Did you truck have a factory camera?  If so, where is the RCA line you speak of?

I assume you must not because my assumption is that the factory camera feed is coming in through a giant bundled connection. 

I think if I use an alternate input on the lockpick it might fix my issue.  Otherwise I was thinking of a switch in the factory camera line.  Of course, then why the hell did I bother with the lockpick?

I put a call in to good old Carlos at Lockpick (coastaltech).  He might be getting sick of hearing from me.
 
J Mo:

Using another input on the LockPick won't work... the reverse cam will ALWAYS override the other inputs (I tried)

There is a way to pull the video signal from the stock cam and put an RCA end on it, (Gray/Dark Blue = Video +  Gray/Orange = Video -)
Coastal may be able to help... I don't know if there is an adapter to do so...
(you should be able to grab these colors from the module under the driver seat...
cut and splice an RCA cord to go to the Rear Cam input on the Lockpick)

I found this diagram for the GMT 900, you will want to confirm wire colours BEFORE cutting!!


The video positive is yellow on the camera harness side, and grey/dk blue on the chassis harness side.

The video negative is brown on the camera harness side, and grey/orange on the chassis harness side.

The reverse wire feed is grey on the camera harness side, and light green on the chassis harness side.

The Ignition positive feed is red on the camera side, and pink on the chassis harness side.

The ground wire is black on both sides.

The shield wire is white on both sides.

11_Silverado_camera3.gif
 
If you really wanna get fancy and don't want to manually unplug the RCA video inputs, you can try this, substituting "FRONT INPUT" for "TRAILER CAM INPUT"
When I get some free time to spend on Ava this is how I will wire up my Cams.

Tundra_front_rear_camera_relays1.jpg
 
Did those diagrams come from coastaltech? If so, I guess I can't expect an Ideal solution. It seems odd that the lockpick can't interrupt the factory backup cam. It seems to be able to interrupt everything else.

One could likely also put a switch in the 'truck is in reverse' wire so the radio never gets the signal to switch it on the cam.

I have to ponder. I'll see what Carlos has to say. Thanks for the very helpful intel.
 
Okay, it took me 10 minutes to let all that sink in and see what you are doing there.  I see how the circuitry would work.  I think I still have an electronic engineering degree hanging on the wall somewhere.  :wave:

It seems a shame that the lockpick doesn't handle this.  That is what I bought it for.  Well this and the stupid address entry limitation.... (why I oughta!)  My preferred solution would obviously be for the truck to auto-detect the trailer connection and then give me the boat cam.  I'm not sure if the truck is smart enough to know when a trailer is connected.  It probably would be.  Then I would need still need to splice in, but I could avoid the lockpick all together.  The only nice thing about the lockpick is that it would allow me to view the camera at any time.  That would be handy for things like driving down the highway and you can't see if there is anyone tailgating you.

Ol' Carlos still hasn't gotten back to me.  I'll see what he has to say before proceeding.  I'm afraid splicing wires lies in my future.

Once all this is done, I need to start tearing in to the Boatmate trailer too!
 
JohnnieMo...

I used a video switch, it has a back up cam input and if you have an aux input on your HU you can switch camera inputs.

I use it for my back up cam, trailer cam and front view cam. I'm going to add one more camera up by the third brake light..



http://www.clarion.com/us/en/products/2006/multimedia/accessories/MSS430/us-en-product-pf_1132912143027.html
 
@ DouglasOak.
I've been looking for a diagram like this for ages.
Thanks so much.

I would modify it a bit to work for the situation I have in mind.
What I want to do is connect the two cameras I have in my side mirrors so that they come on when either turn signal is engaged.
Looking at the diagram I figure that I can modify it so that I can connect both turn signal output to pin 85 of a relays with diodes inline.
I'll have to get power from the turn signal circuit before the flasher ( probably at the stalk in the steering wheel) to accomplish this and get a steady +12v signal. This way the appropriate relay will energize and send power to the appropriate camera to turn on in the dash. Since my screen already has an input for rear camera built in that will override any input on the screen when it receives video from that input  it should work like a charm.
I think I can also expand it to include a 3rd relay so that my rear-view camera also works in the same circuit.

Also I think if I connect it at the stalk it will probably bypass the hazards when I put them on so I am not getting 2 active sources simultaneously

:woohoo: :woohoo: :woohoo:

That would be perfect for these

imageage.jpg


imageuwie.jpg

 
I've been staring at these diagrams for half an hour.  I also downloaded the entire wiring schematic from www.gmupfitter.com

I think in my case, getting it to auto-detect which camera to use may be possible, but would be a terrific amount of work.  All I really need to do is convince the factory camera not to turn on when I want the boat camera.  That could be done by interrupting either the reverse wire feed (brown) or the power for the camera itself.  A simple switch could disable either signal which would then allow the lockpick to insert the new video feed in its place.  It would still be multiplexing two sources, but the factory source should be zero.  (1+0 still = 1)

This solution is still less polished than I would like, but it would only require a single switch of a simple on/off 12V line.  It doesn't mess with video signals, which are bat poop crazy when you mess with them.

I might try to ponder this some more, but I'm running out of project time when it is clearly boating season.  

Oh and my boy Carlos isn't returning my calls.  So much for their customer support. :E:
 
I managed to track down Carlos today and only got bad news.

There is no way to disrupt the factory backup camera.  It is plumbed in directly.  I could splice the video wire, but that would be prone to interference and I don't want to get in to that  As I suspected, the best approach will be to disable the power to the backup camera through a switch.  The down side is that it can only be done inside the tailgate itself as the camera gets turned on with the back-up lights, right inside the tailgate.  He tells me it is the light blue wire.

My other approach was disabling the signal telling the radio the truck is backing up.  However Carlos says this is through the CANBUS system and is not a simple wire.

So my plan will be to add a switch on my backup camera.  This will allow me to override the back-up feed to give me my boat cam.  I'll have to run a wire from the tailgate all the way to the cab, but I just finished doing that for my composite video cable, so I know the route.

I'll post my results when I get them, but it will likely be several weeks.  Apparently I have a fence to build, and a roof to shingle, and another fence to build, and a sidewalk to lay.....  and maybe I might actually use the boat too. 
 
JohnnieMo said:
I managed to track down Carlos today and only got bad news.

There is no way to disrupt the factory backup camera.  It is plumbed in directly.  I could splice the video wire, but that would be prone to interference and I don't want to get in to that  As I suspected, the best approach will be to disable the power to the backup camera through a switch.  The down side is that it can only be done inside the tailgate itself as the camera gets turned on with the back-up lights, right inside the tailgate.  He tells me it is the light blue wire. 

1. You will need to locate the reverse camera module underneath the
passenger seat (Fig A).
2. The reverse camera wire is the blue wire in pin 1 of the 12 pin plug (Fig- B).
3. Connect the (RED/BLK) camera turn on wire from the GMX 550 to the blue wire
using a diode (Fig C). The diode is needed to prevent the reverse lights from
coming on when the reverse camera is activated.
4. Verify that the reverse lights do not come on when the reverse camera
unlock feature is being used.

See page 1 of the following PDF document for more pictures.
http://www.pac-audio.com/PACProductData/NU-GM29/1_Instructions/nu-gm29_instructions_092309.pdf

You will still need to install the switch as Carlos said between the Red/Blk Lockpick wire and the blue OEM wire for when you want to view the trailer cam, but going under the seat is WAY easier than going back to the tailgate cam!!
 
This directly contradicts what Carlos said.... however you seem to have more data to back it up than he did.  And you've never led me astray before!

Carlos said that the backup camera takes its power directly from the reverse lights at the back of the truck.  He indicated there was no power turn-on wire coming from the front of the vehicle in any way.

That would make this far easier.  I still don't think I'll need a diode though, just a switch.  The diode is needed to ensure you don't turn on the module with outside power.  I'm just looking to break the connection, and a switch will do that.
 
Johnnie... cutting this wire (regardless of whether you use a switch or diode) will disable the reverse lights from operating.

This is OK when you want to use it to view the rear tailgate cam full time (while driving forward) but may not be desired when you re backing up with your trailer. (I really wouldn't care when the trailer is attached as the lights will be of no help in backing up) but they will notify others around you that you are indeed backing up.

As I said before your other option is to grab the video signal of the stock (tailgate) cam and switch that signal on/off.

If you are worried about interference I don't think it should be an issue, as it is such a low res pic. (with little or no high current 12v lines near it)
I have my (trailer) cam RCA wire split and soldered to over 18 ft of (18 ga) speaker wire running from the rear of the trailer along side my factory lighting wires to the rear of the truck (where I spliced into an old RCA line that is ran up to the front and into the truck) I have no issues with interference or lines in my display.
 
Okay, this is starting to come together now. So you're both right. The line under the seat is actually the reverse light turn-on. The camera also uses it downstream, within the tailgate.

I won't be disabling the reverse light. In a twist of irony, I need those lights to power my camera too! Also I don't want broken reverse lights.

So when you say you are switching your video, that means you are running video +/- through a switch? What kind of switch?   I hope it's not the $250 version posted above. (edit: I reread that you do a manual connection).

My video feed is already 40 feet long and looks pretty suspect. However that could also be the $40 camera. I may buy a nicer one if this all works out.

I'm still torn on how to proceed. Breaking the power feed in the tailgate is still relatively easy. Your video switch would work too if I had the right switch. Your other trick with the diode would seem to get a different result. That would allow me to turn on the stock camera whenever I wanted to. That's not what I'm after.
 
You can pick up the $250 version switch for $20-$50 on ebay... By the way...
 
I think what I'm going to do is connect the reverse cam power lead on the lockpick to a 5 pin relay.  When I activate the lockpick camera, it will send a signal to the relay.  The relay will then break the power line to the tailgate camera.  Unless there is interference there, I will just see the trailer cam.  It's an unusual way to use a 5 pin relay, but it should work.

If anyone sees a flaw in my logic, please let me know.  It will likely be a while before I get to this project, although the relay was $5 and is sitting in my glove box.
 
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