HOW TO: SILICONE HOSE INSTALLATION

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I want you to know that on the Av 5.3L the installation is not very difficult provided you use the tools in my tool list. ?Trust me you will need all the tools listed. ?There is plenty of room under the hood to access most fittings and hoses and I found the hardest part to be draining the coolant without making a mess all over the place. ?The intent of this install is to ?destroy? the existing hoses and clamps; there are several plastic fittings on the Av that need to be protected at all costs. ?If you try to save the integrity of the old hoses you risk the integrity of the plastic fittings. ?Destroying the existing hoses and clamps is far safer and cheaper than damaging these fittings and after you are done you won?t want those OEM hoses anyway!A word about safety and cautions you need to be aware of. ?When you start this modification, you will not be able to start or drive the Av until you are done; so pick a suitable location to park without having to move your Av. ?This is important because you do not want ?junk? getting into your engine through the throttle body which will be exposed until you are done. ?Also starting the engine with the air intake tube removed may cause the Check Engine Lamp to come on and/or set a ?MIL? code because the Mass Air Flow Sensor will NOT be sensing air flow. ?The engine will run rough and surge badly; rpm?s will rise and fall rapidly which could cause loss of control if the vehicle is put in gear. LET THE ENGINE COOL COMPLETELY PRIOR TO STARTING THIS WORK. ?Hot coolant can cause serious burns. When the cooling system is hot, it is under a lot of pressure. ?This pressure can cause coolant to spray with force! ?Coolant is a hazardous material and you should read all safety warnings concerning exposure prior to coming in contact with it. ?WEAR SAFETY GLASSES especially when operating a high RPM tool like the Dremel to avoid getting metal filings or clamp bits in your eyes. ?I want you to be able to visually admire your work when your done! ?If you are unsure as to your mechanical skills you should not attempt this work yourself; instead seek out a qualified technician to do it for you. ?Please read and reread, referring to the pictures as you go, this entire installation method so you are familiar with the steps before you start.

 

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Now lets look at the tool list for this project (tools photos #1 & #2). Utility knife with new blade, end cutters, small pocket type blade screwdriver (not pictured), 8 inch common pliers, ? inch drive ratchet with 3 inch extension and a 2 inch extension (2 inch extension is helpful but not required), ? inch drive sockets in sizes 7mm & 8mm, open ended hacksaw with metal cutting blade (approximately 14 teeth per inch), ?dremel? type tool with cutting disc, a coolant catcher, an old soft blanket to use as a fender cover to protect your paint (not pictured) and 3 gallons of Dexcool coolant (not pictured). I cannot stress enough how important the ?dremel? type tool is to have. There are several plastic fittings on the Av that could break or be damaged if excessive twisting force is applied to the clamps. Beg, borrow, rent or buy a powered small cutoff tool like the ?dremel?.

 

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Using the ratchet with 3 inch extension and 8mm socket attached, remove the plastic top engine cover (photo #1 part A).

 

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When the bolt is loose, lift the cover up from the front (photo #2).

 

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Pull the cover gently from the two locator grips (photo #3 parts A & B) at the back of the engine by the firewall.

 

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Now using the same tool assembly remove the air intake chamber by loosening the large hose clamp at the throttle body (photo #4 part A). Do not remove the clamp.

 

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Next with the same tool assembly loosen the large hose clamp where the air intake meets the Mass Air Flow Sensor (photo 5 part A). ?Do not remove the clamp.

 

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Do not remove the clamps from the intake, simply loosen to the point that the ducts will slide off the throttle body and air filter housing. ?Next, you will need to release the upper radiator hose and a small coolant hose from their clamps (photo #6). ?Carefully push down on the small hose (photo #6 part A) until it pops free of its holder and just let it hang below the holder. ?Now look carefully at the large plastic clamp that secures the upper radiator hose and you will see a wedge that secures the two halves of this clamp (photo 6 part B).

 

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Take a small blade pocket screwdriver and insert the blade on top of the wedge (photo 7 part A). ?Push down on the wedge with the blade of the screwdriver at the same time as you pull on the right side of the clamp and the clamp will open. ?When you have opened the clamp, release the upper hose from the inside of the clamp.

 

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Now the intake chamber can be removed from the engine area to give full access to the cooling system hoses. ? Be careful of the wire harness that plugs into the M.A.F. sensor (photo #5 part B) so as not to damage it. ?Slide the duct off the throttle body, then slide the duct off the air filter housing. ?Grasp the intake chamber with two hands (photo #8 parts A & B)

 

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Tilt the intake in your right hand up to a 45 degree angle (photo #9 and #10) and pull out the intake chamber using care for the small coolant hose that travels from the top of the radiator to the coolant recovery bottle (photo #9 part A).

 

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AND...

 

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It is now time to drain the coolant. Slide your coolant catcher under the front of the Av so it is dead center under the front edge of the oil pan. This location will allow the coolant to fall into the catcher and not all over the ground. As the coolant drains it will find several paths to exit and drip from, so a large catcher is highly recommended. I was not able to find or confirm the existence of a ?petcock? (drain) on the radiator to facilitate draining, so removing the lower radiator hose at the engine block is the best way to drain off the coolant. This is the 1st of 4 times the ?dremel? tool is required (photo #11 part A). Using a large pair of pliers (as depicted) to remove this hose clamp would be a lesson in futility. The spring pressure is so great that you will unlikely remove this clamp with pliers. Even if you do it successfully at this location, imagine trying to do the same thing where the lower hose meets the radiator. Clearance in this area is much tighter. Since the lower radiator flange is plastic, you run the risk of breaking this flange and having to replace your radiator, since few if any shops can repair plastic flanges. Use the dremel tool to cut the spring clamp securing the lower hose at the engine block (photo #11 part A). Use the 8 inch pliers to grab the cut clamp pieces and remove from the hose. Use your utility knife and carefully cut along the length of the hose until you get just beyond the bulge on the flange that the hose connects to. Don?t cut too deep or you?ll score the aluminum flange with the blade edge. Now tear back and rotate the hose with your hand and it will pop loose of the flange and coolant will start flowing freely from the system. Point the hose downward through the gap to assist coolant flow and direction of flow. Remove the cap from the coolant recovery bottle to allow air into the system which will assist in draining the coolant. Squeeze the upper hose several times with your hand to force more coolant from the system. Allow the coolant to drain for a couple of minutes until the dripping subsides.

 

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Now using the ?dremel? tool again cut the clamp from the lower radiator hose where it joins the radiator (photo #13). ?Remove the clamp pieces and hose the same way; use great care, this flange is plastic not aluminum and will not withstand brute force. ?The hardest part is now behind you!

 

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The next hose to remove is one of the two heater hoses (photo #11 part C). ?I used the 8 inch pliers and squeezed the clamp open and slid it back onto the hose, again clearing the bulge on the flange. ?Use the utility knife and carefully slit the hose, twist and remove. ?Do the same where the hose goes into the firewall being very careful when you slit the hose as the fitting underneath is once again plastic. ?You may use the ?dremel? tool here, but I found it unnecessary. ?These clamps have much less spring tension than the large ones and can be comfortably handled with the 8 inch pliers. ?The next hose set (photo #11 part B) needs to be removed as an assembly for reasons that will become apparent later. ?Do not do anything at this time with the hoses or clamps where they join the plastic ?Y? (photo #11 part D). First remove the clamp and hose (photo #11 part B) using the pliers and utility knife. ?Then follow the hose (photo #11 part E) to the bottom of the coolant recovery tank (photo #12 part A) and using the pliers and utility knife remove this hose, again be very careful, the flange under this hose is plastic.

 

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Now a tricky but easy to remove hose. ?First, look at the plastic clamps on the three hoses that attach to the ?Y? (photo #11 parts 1, 2, 3). ?For whatever reason Chevy uses this style clamp, there are 4 of them and they must be cut off to release the hoses. ?Oddly enough Chevy only uses one of this style clamp on the heater hoses where they join at the firewall, the other as you already know is the spring clamp type. ?The plastic is soft and cuts easily, the hard part is the location at the firewall. ?Follow the heater hose (photo #11 part F) up to the firewall and you will see this style clamp. ?Again the flange under the hose is plastic and you want to take great care not to damage it. ?Use the open ended hacksaw and cut through the clamp, this will only take a dozen or so strokes and you will have good control using the open ended hacksaw blade. ?Now grab the hose with your hand and rotate it on the flange 180 degrees (notice how easily it rotates). ?Again using the open ended hacksaw cut through the clamp 180 degrees opposite your first cut. ?Now take your pocket screwdriver and pry the two clamp halves off the hose. ?That was easy huh? ?Just a bad location and the open ended hacksaw is just the ticket for reaching this weird clamp. ?Now carefully (again the flange under the hose is plastic) take your utility knife and slit the hose and remove. ?You now should have a ?three legged octopus? in your hand. ?Save this assembly (photo #14) on your work surface, we?ll come back to it later.

 

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Now using the pliers and utility knife as before, remove the hose that travels from the top of the coolant recovery tank to the top of the radiator using great care for the plastic flanges under each end of the hose (photo #12 part B, photo #16 part A). ?Remove and save the mesh that is in the middle of this hose, it slides right off and you?ll reuse this on the replacement hose. ?Remove the coolant temperature (photo #16 part B) hose from the radiator using the pliers and utility knife using great care as the flange under the hose is plastic.

 

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Unclip this hose from the half clamp on top of the radiator shroud (photo #19 part B). ?

 

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Unclip the hose from the half clamp on the upper radiator hose (photo #17 parts B & C).

 

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Let this hose hang there while we take off the upper hose for better access. Open, remove and save the alligator clamp (photo #18 part C).

 

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Using the ?dremel? tool cut the spring clamp on the upper hose at the radiator and remove hose from flange as per previous notes using great care when cutting the hose, the flange under the hose is plastic.

 

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Using the same technique, remove the other end of the upper hose using care not to score the metal flange with your blade. ?Now with the 8 inch pliers remove the small clamp on the coolant temperature hose and remove this hose (photo #18 part B). ?You are done with removal. ?Going back together is much easier!

When installing the new hoses a little lubrication on the inside end of the hose will aid in the hoses slipping right onto their flanges. ?I recommend a little saliva as the most mundane of lubricants; it is harmless and will evaporate unlike oils and jellies which I do not recommend. ?Orientation of hose clamps is very important for ease of tightening and a sanitary appearance. ?Please refer to the photos for hose clamp orientation and slide the clamps onto the hoses prior to sliding the hoses onto the flanges. ?All clamps should be tightened after the orientation of the clamp is correct and with approximately ? of an inch of hose exposed between the clamp and the end of the hose. ?Tighten all clamps with a ? inch ratchet, 7mm socket and extensions as needed. ?A ? drive ratchet is used so as not to over torque the clamps, tighten the clamp just until the hose starts to bulge on either side of the clamp. ?DO NOT OVERTORQUE CLAMPS. ?Remember, most of the flanges are plastic and can be damaged if you over torque. ?Use the visual aid of the hose starting to bulge on either side of the clamp as your guide of when to stop tightening.
Time to get your ?3 legged octopus? out and make a new one (photo #14). ?Orient the assembly as per the photo so that when you install the new hoses the new curved hose goes on the same way. Take your end cutters and snip the ?weird? plastic hose clamps. ?Make your snips on each side of each of the 2 holes (photo #14 part B) on each of the 3 clamps. ?Now pop off the cut clamps with the small pocket screwdriver ?leaving just the hoses remaining on the ?Y? (photo #15). ?Using the utility knife carefully cut the hoses free, remembering the flanges are plastic under the hoses.

 

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Assemble the ?Y? (photos #24 & #25), taking extra care to look at the heater hoses (there are 2 different heater hose sizes) THE FAT HEATER HOSE GOES ON THE ?Y?. Once again set the ?Y? aside.

 

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and...

 

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?Install ?the skinny heater hose to the engine block first (photo #21)