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hub/cv axle recommendations

06Z71guy

SM 2023
SM 2022
Full Member
Joined
Jan 29, 2022
Messages
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I'm going to replace both front hubs and cv axels. Im a pretty good mechanic and have replaced them before on other trucks. My question ...is there a prefered manufacturer, or, a manufacturer to stay away from? So many choices on line...I dont want/need to be cheap about it (but want to be practical about it). Looking for personal experience with either a recommendadtion or warning regarding a vendor. 2006 Z71, 176K miles.
 
Well you're right not to cheap out as "You get whatcha pay for".
I just replaced mine in April on my '04 z71. I had one bad hub and leaky axle seals. I prefer to replace both sides when it comes to these kinds of repairs.
I found it best to stay away from Amazon and ebay because I live in Canada and shipping or returns can be a hassle. Anyway I went thru a Canadian site partsavatar.ca and they really only had a couple of choices. You'd probably have alot more choices than I.
I went with Worldparts axles $130 ea. Kugel Hubs $90 ea. and SKF seals $15 ea.
Did it in the driveway on jackstands. Was a good time😜
Late posting but I finished replacing my hubs, axles and seals on the front end.
If you recall I had a little accident on the first attempt, smashing my hand with a hammer and getting stitches. All healed up now.
Anyway with a little more care I got it done on jackstands in the driveway.
Old and new
View attachment 234328 View attachment 234329

The drivers side was pretty easy and I did that first.
Passenger side was more difficult. To replace the seal. I pulled the drive axle but it would not go back in all the way. A washer falls of the end of that axle inside the differential. I had to pull the axle housing and put it together properly, and reseal the housing to the Diff.
View attachment 234330
It is much easier if you just do this in the first place, pull the housing with the drive axle together. Pound out the axle and replace the seal, and bearing if needed. Put the axle back in with gear assembly. Remember how it came apart. Oil resistant gasket maker and remount. Not too bad.
Also take off both sway bar links until the job is done. The passenger side required the shock off to remove the cv axle.
I cleaned up the brake calipers and replaced gear oil and transfer case AutoTec 2
and cranked up the torsion bars till the bolts had about 1/2 inch left.
What I didn't do yet- axle bearings , they seem ok and I couldn't get a proper slide hammer atm.
Also didn't replace the new Tranfer case motor I bought for $300. It started to work the last couple months everytime I tried 4wd. So I'll keep the new one as a spare. Thats another big job anyway and might as well replace u-joints while I'm there.
 
For the hubs, ACDelco GM OEM or the Gold (probably the same). Rockauto with the 5% discount posted in another thread. Not sure what brand for CV axle is good, haven't done...yet.
 
I'll probably regret this...but Ive ordered from a brand called TRQ. Certainly not the cheapest, but in the comfortable range, for the $$$.
Mixed reviews from independent sources, like most aftermarket tems. I'll be sure to share my expeuience her to add to the conversation.
 
I'll probably regret this...but Ive ordered from a brand called TRQ. Certainly not the cheapest, but in the comfortable range, for the $$$.
Mixed reviews from independent sources, like most aftermarket tems. I'll be sure to share my expeuience her to add to the conversation.

Let us know. The biggest reason I go with the ACDelco hub is the if look at the inbound side, you'll see that the assembly has a rolled end over the bearing that holds the assembly together real well, especially when the bearings go (that "feature" was important to me as I unknowingly rode my original hub on bad bearings for at least 9 months and the wheel stayed on the truck, when I finally checked the wheel play is was loose beyond imagination, basically no bearings!). On most (the ones I checked at the time) aftermarket's, there is no rolled end, just pressed together. Not sure if the TRQ is rolled?

Also forgot to mention Detroit Axle, I have used their hub assemblies in the past but again, theirs did not have a rolled end on the Avalanche replacement so I went with ACDelco.

1654558498507.png
 
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Let us know. The biggest reason I go with the ACDelco hub is the if look at the inbound side, you'll see that the assembly has a rolled end over the bearing that holds the assembly together real well, especially when the bearings go (that "feature" was important to me as I unknowingly rode my original hub on bad bearings for at least 9 months and the wheel stayed on the truck, when I finally checked the wheel play is was loose beyond imagination, basically no bearings!). On most (the ones I checked at the time) aftermarket's, there is no rolled end, just pressed together. Not sure if the TRQ is rolled?

Also forgot to mention Detroit Axle, I have used their hub assemblies in the past but again, theirs did not have a rolled end on the Avalanche replacement so I went with ACDelco.

View attachment 234399
I was "this close" to ordering Detroit Axle (now a Chinese compnay that kept the name) ...but read where the quality was less than many other aftermarket parts. Interesting about the rolled lip. I'll check it out. Thanks.
 
I was "this close" to ordering Detroit Axle (now a Chinese compnay that kept the name) ...but read where the quality was less than many other aftermarket parts. Interesting about the rolled lip. I'll check it out. Thanks.

Haven't used Detroit Axle in a long time, didn't know that they are now CCP owned and that, naturally, the quality has gone down. Thanks for the heads-up!
 
OK, New front hubs and CV axels installed, both from TRQ. Exact fit, no issues. Will report back on long term performance. Unfortunatly, I replaced them thinking the noise, humm, vibrations I was getting in both 2wd and (much worse) in 4wd would go away. It didnt. I'll replce the front diff oil today and see how that does. The rear transfer case was replaced a month or so ago, and thats when the noise actually started. I am hoping its not the transfer case..its under warrently, but dont want to do that job again. Running out of options for easy fixes.
 
I wonder if the hum and vibrations are from your driveshaft (any one of them)? If someone else did the transfer case, could they have dinged the shaft making it out of balance?...
 
I wonder if the hum and vibrations are from your driveshaft (any one of them)? If someone else did the transfer case, could they have dinged the shaft making it out of balance?...
I was thinking of how I can better isolate the vibrations, which are much stronger in 4wd than 2wd. In 2wd its more of a hummm, but I suspect the noise source is the same. If I can drive the truck without the shaft input to the front diff, that may be helpful, but I am not sure if there is any damage that will be done. Its so bad in 4wd ( I feel it through the gas pedal) Im thinking its gears, in the front diff or rear ransfer case.
 
4wd on mud or dirt or what type of road?
 
The front differential on my AWD EXT is always under load, as opposed to one in a 4WD truck.

On mine, there was a low "growl" coming from the front area of the truck while in motion.

I had my front diff rebuilt at around 130K, or so.

I then replaced it with a reman unit 100K miles later for making the same noise.

I later found out this is fairly common on higher mileage trucks of both 4WD and AWD varieties.

What did you find when you changed the front diff oil?

Metal on the drain plug?

My drain plug was covered in metal both times I had it serviced.

The EXT's AWD transfer case had been noisy since I first bought the truck with 116K miles on it and slowly, but steadily got noisier as time and mileage increased.

I would call that noise a hum more than a growl and I could feel it in the floorboard under my feet, at it's worst.

I bought a brand new transfer case from the dealer at around 225K and had it installed.

Quiet as a church mouse, now.
 
I was thinking of how I can better isolate the vibrations, which are much stronger in 4wd than 2wd. In 2wd its more of a hummm, but I suspect the noise source is the same. If I can drive the truck without the shaft input to the front diff, that may be helpful, but I am not sure if there is any damage that will be done. Its so bad in 4wd ( I feel it through the gas pedal) Im thinking its gears, in the front diff or rear ransfer case.

Maybe try removing the driveshaft from transfer case to front differential and test ride? PITA but could help isolate.

Need one of the old GM mechanics here to chime in.
 
that is problem - per manual should not use 4wd on normal roads mean for offroad, mud, snow covered roads etc..

something where tires can slip a bit when taking turns.

SO your issue may be normal if turning in 4wd on pavement... the drivetrain can bind up and you get all kinds of racket.

IF you want to test 4wd then go in a grass field.
 
Driving on any paved road with the 4WD engaged is going to create more noise than when driving in 2WD and is not recommended in any case.

Soft or loose surfaces only for any 4WD mode selection.

I would expect some level of additional noise, even slightly, to be present when in normal 4WD mode.

That being said, healthy 4WD drivetrains in most trucks I have owned or ridden in have, for the most part, been very quiet while in 2WD mode on firm pavement surfaces.
 
I agree with above posters, manual says no to 4wd on dry pavement.....
 
I'm reasonably certian the 100 ft or so that its in 4WD (straight line driving) is not the cause of any noise itself, rather the cause is amplified when in 4WD. Its there in 2wd as well. Just less noticable.
 
have you tried it on the dirt? to compare and see if noise goes away?
 
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