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Latest TSB for the AV - Snap/Popping Noise in Front End - FEB. 14, 2006

JSal69

JSal69

SM 2004
Full Member
Joined
Mar 31, 2004
Messages
3,766
Location
Long Island, NY
I was browsing the GM site for TSB's relative to my AV and came across this.
It was just released last week.
I know many here have experienced this problem and  would love a solution.
I'm hoping this takes care of it for us.

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Snap/Popping Type Noise Coming from Front of Vehicle (Remove Bolt-In Front Crossmember and Add Washers) #03-08-61-002G - (Feb 14, 2006)
Snap/Popping Type Noise Coming from Front of Vehicle (Remove Bolt-In Front Crossmember and Add Washers)

2003-2006 Cadillac Escalade

2003-2006 Chevrolet Avalanche, Suburban, Tahoe

2004-2006 Chevrolet Silverado

2003-2006 GMC Yukon, Yukon XL

2004-2006 GMC Sierra

1500 Series (? Ton) and 2500 Series (? Ton) with Two-Wheel Drive

This bulletin only applies to 1500 and 2500 series 2WD vehicles with recirculating ball type steering.

This bulletin is being revised to add the 2006 model year, update the correction information and change the quantity of parts needed. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 03-08-61-002F (Section 08 -- Body and Accessories).

Condition

Some customers may comment on a snap or popping-type noise coming from the front of the vehicle. This condition is most apparent during hard left or right turns at low speeds. Going over bumps while turning may also aid in producing this noise.

Correction

Remove the bolt-in front crossmember and add washers using the procedure listed below.

Important: DO NOT slot the mounting holes on the crossmember as stated in previous bulletins. Slotting the holes has been found to be less effective and, in some cases, causes the noise condition to be more prevalent.

1. Raise and support the vehicle. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle in the General Information sub-section of the Service Manual.

2. Remove the mounting nuts, bolts and the front crossmember from the vehicle.

3. Clean all the undercoating off the crossmember in the area of the mounting holes.

4. Reinstall the crossmember with the bolts and nuts. On the driver and passenger side, add washer P/N 11509592, or equivalent hardened washer (see dimensions below), at each bolt head and nut location.

Tighten

Tighten the bolts to 120 N?m (89 lb ft).

5. Apply an even coat of Anti-Corrosion Coating, P/N 12346501, or equivalent, to the crossmember where removed. Overlap the original coating in order to provide an effective corrosion protection.



Inside Diameter? ? ? ?Outside Diameter ? ? ? ?Thickness

14 mm (0.551 in)? ? ? 35 mm (1.38 in)? ? ? ? 3 mm (0.118 in)


Parts Information? ? ?

Part Number? ? ? Description? ? ? ? ?Qty

11509592? ? ? ? ? Washer? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? 8


Warranty Information

For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:

Labor Operation ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ?Description ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? Labor Time

E1730? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ?Crossmember, Front Suspension - Replace? ? ? ? ? Use published labor time

 
Hey John, can I copy & paste this into the tech center?
 
HERE

Actually, it's a reference only place, within the forums. (read-only for the general membership).

Yes, for all intent and purposes.. It'll remain here unless some admin disagrees! :rolleyes:
 
sperry said:
It'll remain here unless some admin disagrees! :rolleyes:
Click to expand...
hehehe...funny....

I made it for you sperry..heck I wanted to name after you....but you shot me down...

It will be here forever as I use it often...as well as other members I am sure....
 
WoW  :eek:

A whole other World I never new existed !!!

I will post future TSB's in both places from now on.

Unless Steve prefers to organize the Tech section himself.
 
JSal69 said:
WoW :eek:

A whole other World I never new existed !!!

I will post future TSB's in both places from now on.

Unless Steve prefers to organize the Tech section himself.
Click to expand...
Send to sperry ...as only mods can put stuff inthere...and we elected Sperry to as the keeper of the tech seciton...hehehe
 
ygmn said:
Send to sperry ...as only mods can put stuff inthere...and we elected Sperry to as the keeper of the tech seciton...hehehe
Click to expand...


Well...  You certainly couldn't have made a better choice than my man Steve-o-rino
 
I believe I have found the elusive popping noise in my front end. It isn't the cross-member or the break calipers or anything suggested so far. It is just a theory so far. I will have to do more looking into it but here is what I have found;

It has been a year since my popping has started in my 05 Z71 Avy. It used to be happening when it was cold and diminished as it warmed up outside.... Within the last few months I have noticed that the front divers side was sagging. I got under Avalina and notice that my tortion screw on the drivers side was significantly longer(unscrewed) than the passenger. I jacked Avy up and put her on stands then replaced my sway end links and sway bushings on the front because I needed to anyway. I then lubed up my tortion screws for easier movement and tightened them down all the way with one full revolution back out. After all this had been done I lowered Avy back down and measured the frame to the ground, just behind the front wheel well, as well as the fenders to the tires on all four tires. They are pretty damn close to the same now. No more factory rake, which I thought was stupid anyway. Just MHO.  Before I lowered Avy down though I noticed something.... The torsion bars, where they fir into the front lower a-arms looked odd.... They almost look like there was a pretty good gap as if you were putting a SAE socket on a MM Bolt head.... After driving it around for a while I noticed that the popping was happening more often. Actually almost all of the time. Almost every turn or every time I put on the breaks. Using your imaginary distance feeling of sound and feel you can tell it is coming from somewhere around that a-arm/torsion location. Only way I can describe the sense of knowing a location, and some of you know what I am talking about, other that aren't in tune with their surroundings or vehicle, won't really get it I don't think....

Note: After adjusting my torsion screws, Avy still drives fine and in a straight line and a visual line down the sides of Avy doesn't show any issues with camber or anything else.

My question is; are the torsion ends supposed to fit well into the a-arms or are they supposed to look like a socket that's to big on a nut?


 
There is a gap... and they should be under tension all the time so as not to really move and make noise.
IS is SHINY inside... Shiny metal notes metal to metal moving contact.
 
Well I think I may have found my issue... I just happened to come across a video on youtube about havin a lil play in your steering wheel and that adjusting the steering box gear nut on the top, would alleviate the play in the steering wheel as long as you don't tighten it to much. 1/4 at a time, and no more than 1/2 total is recommended. I ended up having to do the full 1/2 turn so my gears must be a lil worn out. It should last me until I replace the steering box at some point. Took it for a drive and no more popping noise while turning either direction or over bumps and so on. Truck had been setting for 5 hours before I adjusted anything so it could cool down and relax. Noise had been happening all the time the majority of this year. Been really bad in the mornings since it has been droppin down in the 50's and lower. My real test will be tomorrow on my way to work and on the way home. I know all the turns that it pops on, so we shall see.

Not to mention with the wind this past couple of weeks I have been driftin back and forth on the highway because of the play in the steering wheel.

I'll update this tomorrow when I get home from work. After the test drive I took earlier though, I'm thinking very positively about it since I did some good wheel turnin.

 
So far no popping at all. To and from work and no popping or clunking on any of the turns or bumps that normally cause it. Specially into and out of my parking space.
 
I only tightened my steering box because I had a lot of play in the steering wheel. Once I tightened it I had no more popping noise. Only tighted the steering box if you have play in you steering wheel. I literally had 2-3 inches of movement in the steering wheel. Meaning I could turn the wheel a little before the tires would move.

Here is the link to the video. there are others on youtube as well. Our avalanches have the nut & allen on top of the steering box like this Yukon.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kR25oICpkmc

Still have no popping noise. Remember do not over tighten your steering box. Total of 1/2 turn at most. 1/4 or a turn or less for each adjustment until you get it as good as you can without going over 1/2 total turn.
 
Popping noise is now back. But, only every once in a while. Maybe my steering box is going bad... This summer I plan on replacing the upper and lower arms on both sides. Might as well replace the steering, idler, and steering box while I am at it. Then my new front suspension will be complete! lol
 
Have you ever replaced the intermediate steering shaft.  Those things have been causing noises for years.
 
No, I have read plenty of instances that the popping comes back a few thousand miles later after changing those. After I tightened my steering box it went away. It is now back after a little bit of time, but only every once in a while. When i tightened the steering box, I did notice some leakage from the top and bottom. Bottom being the pitman arm seal. I'm going to replace the box anyway. Going to wait until this spring/summer to do so, so that it's warmer outside lol.
 
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