Hey guys I have big leaks come in from the cargo panels. I checked all the channels are clear. No torn seals. Are the position of the cargo panels adjustable?
Thanks I did pull the seals & clean everything thoroughly but maybe I didnt used enough gasket sealer or permatex.Mine leaked like a waterfall, this is what I did two years ago and they have not leaked since:
Pull the seals, clean out all the old adhesive sealer (looks like dried up off-white caulking, clean seal channels and cover thoroughly with mineral spirits. Fill seal channel with black permatex RTV sealant (I used (1.5) 11 oz tubes - caulk gun type) - you should put a lot in each channel to fill to "line", you'll see when removed what I mean, then press on the covers and let dry a day.
Also, wipe all seals (entire truck including bed cover panels, the bed rails that panels sit on, rear window, all windows, door jambs, etc.) with Dielectric (Silicone) Grease - this is what I used and have 1/2 or more left for next time. No leaks anywhere and it conditions the seals real nice!
And yes, the positions are adjustable but I don't recommend that, it's probably not the issue and would open a can of worms that you don't want to eat.
For my panels 4 of the screws snapped off in the same way you described. I used 2 part Epoxy with serious heavy duty clamps and have not had an issue since.I currently own a 2009 Avalanche. Prior to this I owned a 2002 Avalanche. Until 3 years ago I didn't have leaks but yes, pulled the seals off and delicately removed the best I could all the prior caulking compound. Replaced caulk and seals and still had problems. Notably is that the rear 2 panel locking latches corroded to the point of factory paint peeling off not just the latches but the catches bolted to the underside of the side walls to catch the latches on.
Ok....fast forward to today (10/11/2021) and attempted a few days ago prior to a trip to remove the latches on covers #2 and #3 (outboard panel) only to have (1) #27 torx screw snap off inside the panel. Fortunately it wasn't stainless so I was able to drill it out. With zero GM parts on hand it appeared to NOT be metric...but are they? I found a #10-32 unf tap (I think) and did the left/right side and cleaned up the 3 good screws and using anti-seize reinstalled. The 4th missing screw is now a phillips head screw for what I had on hand. Unsure but 11519588 may be the replacement screw by GM. Local hardware will probably give me a hardened Allen head screw w taller head, granted but there is no interference not to use that for cheaper.
The "main" issue with the latch (this all relates to leaking panels of course) is the pivot screw that I believe is a #40 torx washer head shoulder screw and trying to find that. I've seen latches for sale on Ebay that show a phillips head vs the Torx.
Has anyone replaced the center screw in order to salvage their latches? If so, what has been suggested? Thx