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Lighted Sail Panel Screws

Marine4Life

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I was thinking the same thing on using the bolts opposed to the LED/holders, but does the thread size matter on the LED bolts?  Or is there a type of expander that the original sail screws screw into?
 

spetch

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Marine4Life said:
I was thinking the same thing on using the bolts opposed to the LED/holders, but does the thread size matter on the LED bolts?  Or is there a type of expander that the original sail screws screw into?
Yes, size matters.  The bolts are license plate bolts, which are the perfect size to shove right into the holes and stay relatively tight.
 

Marine4Life

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(y)  Thanks for the help!  I just remembered I was going to gatorback my sail panels and everything else, so I suppose this mod will have to wait  :E:
 

Marine4Life

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If thats the caes then I would prefer using Oznium because it looks like using Oznium would be more of a flush mount look opposed to a bolt sticking out.
 

avalanchenewbie

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I'm going to be installing mine this weekend.

There was a post around page 2 or 3, asking if it was possible to make the lights "sequential".  The answer is YES.  It can be done.

I have found online instructions on how to build a circuit that will do this.  The only issue is that the instructions and parts are for a 10-LED system (for each side), as opposed to only 4 LED's.

And it only lights in sequence while there is power, so if you are using turn signals, it will only sequence for a second before it shuts off and starts over again.

Then, which direction to sequence the lights?  Top to bottom, or bottom to top?  And are they "legal" to do either direction?

I may go to The Shack before hand and buy the parts needed, and run it off a second circuit, with some diodes to prevent back-feed.    I have to get diodes and resistors for the regular install anyway....

Will post instructions and pics when I'm done...
 

chavey

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Troublemaker said:
. . . .
There was a post around page 2 or 3, asking if it was possible to make the lights "sequential".  The answer is YES.  It can be done.

I have found online instructions on how to build a circuit that will do this.  The only issue is that the instructions and parts are for a 10-LED system (for each side), as opposed to only 4 LED's.

And it only lights in sequence while there is power, so if you are using turn signals, it will only sequence for a second before it shuts off and starts over again.
. . .

Let us know how that goes.  I was looking for the same thing while back.  Found a circuit design and even a kit too.  But the problem was that the timer chip just took a bit to initialize, at which point the electric from the turn signal would be gone and not fast enough to get thru the sequence.  But if you get it to work, let us know.

Oh, and I was actually going to put another LED on each side, to the outside of the big 3rd brake light.  Then run it from inside to outside, thus giving a left or right "turn" look to it.
 

BooomerX

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This may be stupid question but could you tap the hot side of the signal flasher from the switch to the flasher and use that to power the sequencer and led's from the signal light switch keeping them independent of the signal light flasher?
 

MS03 2500

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BooomerX you really don't want to tap into electrical system of the AV too much, use the connections at the trailer plug.
 

red_johnny

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MS03 2500 said:
BooomerX you really don't want to tap into electrical system of the AV too much, use the connections at the trailer plug.
What is your reasoning behind that?  I have tapped right behind the tail lights which is the same as tapping into the trailer harness.  Same power from the same source.  Its hard for me to understand why everyone wants to tap into the trailer harness, its further away and in a exposed area than right beind the tail light.  I could agree that you dont want to hack up the system and splice in difficult locations but you should be able to tap into almost any power source in the vehicle (aside from ignition and other obvious circuits) and not screw anything up.
 

MS03 2500

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Sometimes it will cause issues, the AV main lights are monitored so if the BCM sees a different resistance you will get things like fast blinking on turn signals, cruise control will not set. the Trailer plug is not monitored.
 

MS03 2500

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Member didit showed me how to do this. Use the trailer plug for the turns(they are also the stoplights) splice the running light into the circuit from the AV tail lights (use a diode so the current does not get back into the main wiring)

You will have running lights and flashing turns and brake lights. HTH
 

HenryJ

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red_johnny said:
... Its hard for me to understand why everyone wants to tap into the trailer harness...
It is the easiest way to have one connection that gives you one wire for both stop and turn. Your only choice at the tail lamp assembly is either stop , or turn not both.
That is the reason to go to the trailer harness.
 

MS03 2500

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HenryJ said:
It is the easiest way to have one connection that gives you one wire for both stop and turn. Your only choice at the tail lamp assembly is either stop , or turn not both.
That is the reason to go to the trailer harness.

HELLO  :laugh:
 

HenryJ

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You are correct about having running lamps, but in addition to the diodes needed a resistor to reduce the voltage and dim the LEDs to look like running lamps. That gives the appearance of getting brighter for the turn and brake lights.
That was a bit more complicated than I wanted to get with mine.
 

MS03 2500

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I did not use a transistor or maybe you meant a resistor. Not needed
 

spetch

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BooomerX said:
This may be stupid question but could you tap the hot side of the signal flasher from the switch to the flasher and use that to power the sequencer and led's from the signal light switch keeping them independent of the signal light flasher?
If you trace the flasher wires backward, they come to a module under the driver side dash.  The inputs to the dash module go back to the BCM, and it looks like the BCM toggles the voltage for the flashers/brakes (they are the same wires).  You would have to intercept the turn signal switch wires before they get to the BCM.  That could be a PITA.
 

red_johnny

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HenryJ said:
It is the easiest way to have one connection that gives you one wire for both stop and turn. Your only choice at the tail lamp assembly is either stop , or turn not both.
That is the reason to go to the trailer harness.
HUH? You can still wire both there, just use the diodes.  Maybe its easier for most.
 

red_johnny

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MS03 2500 said:
Sometimes it will cause issues, the AV main lights are monitored so if the BCM sees a different resistance you will get things like fast blinking on turn signals, cruise control will not set. the Trailer plug is not monitored.
Now that makes sence why most choose there.
 

HenryJ

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MS03 2500 said:
I did not use a transistor or maybe you meant a resistor. Not needed
My slip, You are right I did mean resistor.
Here is one method for running / stop / turn using one LED for all: Diagram.png
You need to add a diode and a resistor to dim them down so they can be distinguished from the brake lights and turn signals...The trailer harness supplies both the turn signal and brake light from the colored wire.
Running a diode in the connections to both the tail and brake wiring at the lamp assembly can work too.
I will grant you that there are numerous ways that it can be done with resistors, diodes, and even other more complicated methods.
The KISS answer is a connection at the trailer wiring.
 

MS03 2500

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TM if you use the trailer plug you do not need the resistor.
 
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