I was thinking the same thing on using the bolts opposed to the LED/holders, but does the thread size matter on the LED bolts? Or is there a type of expander that the original sail screws screw into?
Yes, size matters. The bolts are license plate bolts, which are the perfect size to shove right into the holes and stay relatively tight.Marine4Life said:I was thinking the same thing on using the bolts opposed to the LED/holders, but does the thread size matter on the LED bolts? Or is there a type of expander that the original sail screws screw into?
Troublemaker said:. . . .
There was a post around page 2 or 3, asking if it was possible to make the lights "sequential". The answer is YES. It can be done.
I have found online instructions on how to build a circuit that will do this. The only issue is that the instructions and parts are for a 10-LED system (for each side), as opposed to only 4 LED's.
And it only lights in sequence while there is power, so if you are using turn signals, it will only sequence for a second before it shuts off and starts over again.
. . .
What is your reasoning behind that? I have tapped right behind the tail lights which is the same as tapping into the trailer harness. Same power from the same source. Its hard for me to understand why everyone wants to tap into the trailer harness, its further away and in a exposed area than right beind the tail light. I could agree that you dont want to hack up the system and splice in difficult locations but you should be able to tap into almost any power source in the vehicle (aside from ignition and other obvious circuits) and not screw anything up.MS03 2500 said:BooomerX you really don't want to tap into electrical system of the AV too much, use the connections at the trailer plug.
It is the easiest way to have one connection that gives you one wire for both stop and turn. Your only choice at the tail lamp assembly is either stop , or turn not both.red_johnny said:... Its hard for me to understand why everyone wants to tap into the trailer harness...
HenryJ said:It is the easiest way to have one connection that gives you one wire for both stop and turn. Your only choice at the tail lamp assembly is either stop , or turn not both.
That is the reason to go to the trailer harness.
If you trace the flasher wires backward, they come to a module under the driver side dash. The inputs to the dash module go back to the BCM, and it looks like the BCM toggles the voltage for the flashers/brakes (they are the same wires). You would have to intercept the turn signal switch wires before they get to the BCM. That could be a PITA.BooomerX said:This may be stupid question but could you tap the hot side of the signal flasher from the switch to the flasher and use that to power the sequencer and led's from the signal light switch keeping them independent of the signal light flasher?
HUH? You can still wire both there, just use the diodes. Maybe its easier for most.HenryJ said:It is the easiest way to have one connection that gives you one wire for both stop and turn. Your only choice at the tail lamp assembly is either stop , or turn not both.
That is the reason to go to the trailer harness.
Now that makes sence why most choose there.MS03 2500 said:Sometimes it will cause issues, the AV main lights are monitored so if the BCM sees a different resistance you will get things like fast blinking on turn signals, cruise control will not set. the Trailer plug is not monitored.
My slip, You are right I did mean resistor.MS03 2500 said:I did not use a transistor or maybe you meant a resistor. Not needed
Running a diode in the connections to both the tail and brake wiring at the lamp assembly can work too.You need to add a diode and a resistor to dim them down so they can be distinguished from the brake lights and turn signals...The trailer harness supplies both the turn signal and brake light from the colored wire.