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LTZ Autoride

Sprayed down my system again with windex. My airline extensions, fittings, bags, etc are all good.

Looks like Arnott damaged the big green dryer o-ring on the rebuilt dryer they sent me. They didn't line up the o-ring before tightening it down and they pinched off a chunk of it. The windex was bubbling at that seam. I had a spare o-ring here so it's all good now.

I need to watch to see if the system leaks down over 4-5 days anymore.


I also need to troubleshoot if my chevy lean (7/8" lower drivers side) is causing my level sensors to be too far out of range from each other and turning on my 'service suspension' light.
 
7/8 seems a lot, mine is always within 1/8, and usually 1/16 or spot on.

The Bags inflate at the same rate and PSI so the stock system cant adjust side to side...
Do you know what is causing the lean? (bent frame, worn bushing ?)

blu_fuz said:
Sprayed down my system again with windex. My airline extensions, fittings, bags, etc are all good.

Looks like Arnott damaged the big green dryer o-ring on the rebuilt dryer they sent me. They didn't line up the o-ring before tightening it down and they pinched off a chunk of it. The windex was bubbling at that seam. I had a spare o-ring here so it's all good now.

I need to watch to see if the system leaks down over 4-5 days anymore.


I also need to troubleshoot if my chevy lean (7/8" lower drivers side) is causing my level sensors to be too far out of range from each other and turning on my 'service suspension' light.
 
From what I have measured, the lean has something to do with the rear springs. Is there a bushing on top/bottom of the rear springs?
 
I think so.

How does your front level out?

blu_fuz said:
From what I have measured, the lean has something to do with the rear springs. Is there a bushing on top/bottom of the rear springs?
 
Front L to R is within 3/8" with the drivers side being lower. I think because the rear is so extreme it is causing the front to lean too.

I found this lower spring bushing on rockauto: http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=1858424&cc=1440255

^ that bushing can't be more than 1/4" thick maybe.

getimage.php
 
Hi everyone. I am a newbie here. I brought a 07' Tahoe LTZ about a year ago. Wanted to share some info on the OEM Z55 Autoride front struts and rear shocks. My front and rears are done, so being proactive I searched high and low. It took awhile but by checking the parts # and breaking the code. Amazon has them both for about $180 each. ACDelco 580-451 rears are $180.29 (http://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-580-45...ywords=580-451) ACDelco 580-433 fronts $189.08 (http://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-580-43...ywords=580-433)

Hope it helps anyone who might be looking.
 
Yep, Where I got my fronts from for same price. 1 year ago they were 2X the price.

Wizery said:
Hi everyone. I am a newbie here. I brought a 07' Tahoe LTZ about a year ago. Wanted to share some info on the OEM Z55 Autoride front struts and rear shocks. My front and rears are done, so being proactive I searched high and low. It took awhile but by checking the parts # and breaking the code. Amazon has them both for about $180 each. ACDelco 580-451 rears are $180.29 (http://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-580-45...ywords=580-451) ACDelco 580-433 fronts $189.08 (http://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-580-43...ywords=580-433)

Hope it helps anyone who might be looking.
 
Truck goes in tomorrow to the stealership to get the 'service suspension' code read and see what they have to say about the extreme lean. I hope to have a solid answer from them and not a pile of hot poop handed to me and have it called pumpkin pie, if you know what I'm say'n LOL
 
^ hahahahaha



Dealer checked the code "C0696 Suspension position sensor overcurrent" .


They tested my harness extension and everything seems to be good with no short-to-ground condition and suggested I should start by having my new arnott compressor checked. The service book suggests the pressure sensor on the dryer could be to fault also. There has been an updated pressure sensor installed on the 2012 and newer autoride trucks and if I wanted to install it on my truck the new part number for the dryer/sensor comes with a harness adapter to plug in the new style pressure sensor.


I did read something about a coil wire that breaks on part of the compressor that people have repaired, but my compressor should be new and not have any issues..... I will probably check this first.

So, for $100 they ran the codes and gave me some suggestions as to what they would start with.
 
I talked to Arnott and they said the C0696 code has to do with the level sensors themselves, not the compressor.



I'm just confused.  :E:


Here is the same print out the dealer gave me:
http://www.archivedsites.com/techlink/2011/09/low-vehicle-trim-height-under-heavy-load.html


Also, I found this nifty posting:

"2001-2012
Symptom:
Escalade, Escalade ESV, Escalade EXT, Avalanche, Tahoe, Tahoe LD, Suburban, Yukon, Yukon XL LD, Yukon Denali, Yukon Denali XL - Suspension DTCs C0696 or C0711, incorrect trim height, compressor inlet hose loose, or compressor self test inoperative

DO:
Repair or replace only the failed component

DON'T DO:
Replace the entire compressor assembly

Reference Information / Bulletin Number:
PIT4954B
 
I would trust that C0696 means there is a short in the level sensor wire, maybe it is intermittent when driving. Wondering if the dealer tried to twist the harness around during testing or just did a static test with the vehicle sitting still.
 
^ yeah I don't know, that could be.


I think they are getting terms confused, so I called the dealer again, they said the C0696 Suspension position sensor overcurrent is for the PRESSURE SENSOR located on the dryer canister. The C0696 doesn't have anything to do with the LEVEL SENSORS located on the trailing arm of the suspension.


Dealer still suggest replacing the dryer assembly that comes with a new style pressure sensor and harness adapter.....  ??? :help:


 
OK I understand what's going on GM is using C0696 for the pressure sensor, the generic OBD chassis code is for "position sensor."
 
^ I agree with that. Their description of that code is a little too vague considering how many parts of the system are actually some type of 'position sensor' weather it is for pressure or for level, they both kind of are a position sensor of some sort.....


I guess I need to drop another $100 on the dryer with new pressure sensor just to see if that works.  :E:





Arnott thinks the 'pressure switch' code should be C0712.
The research I did for the C0712 code reads this 'c0712 -level control compressor rely circuit'.

^ either way I'm not throwing the C0712 code, I just need to figure out what the problem is and keep info available for anyone else running into this problem.
 
The first code is probably for the shorting fault and the second code is probably for an out-of-range condition, you'd probably get either or both if the sensor really is bad. The only way to know is to look it up in the service manual but I would suspect replacing the sensor is the way to go.
 
Damn, the new part showed up quick! It was here last night and couldn't wait to put it in  :cool:.

I got the 22964558 dryer canister with updated pressure sensor and harness adapter. $93 shipped from ebay. It is already packed with new dryer pellets and ready to install right our of the box but it doesn't come with a new small o-ring where it enters the compressor. No biggie, just use the original o-ring.


Fired it up it ran for 5 seconds and didn't fill the air bags tight but the service suspension light did go off.

I thought, I'll hook up our camper to make it cycle. Sure enough, it actually works again! Pumped the truck up and ran like it is supposed to.

Here is the updated dryer. The dryer itself isn't any different but the pressure sensor and the harness adapter are what changed.
22964558updateddryer_zps22d46283.jpg



Here is the video of me hooking up the camper:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nth1Pv-jE38


So, if your truck has a service suspension light and is throwing a "C0696 Suspension position sensor overcurrent" code, buy the new dryer assembly from GM and be done with it.
 
If it is the 'updated' sensor, then the unit you have should have the harness adapter. The sensor is different than the original units, hence the harness adapter.
 
Has anyone been able to have the dealer replace their blown stock rear shocks with the rebuilt Arnott shocks? They are cheaper and come with a lifetime warranty.
 
IMO you are better off keeping the GM function. I have replaced all four of mine and the complete compressor unit. The ride quality is incomparable between the GM shocks and the Arnotts. I have ridden in both. Thats just my opinion. The shocks are very easy to change on the rear. You should be able to do it yourself in your driveway in under and hour. Its just 4 bolts and connections.
 
I installed the Arnotts...I un-installed them. I bought OEM GM ones.

There is no comparison.

Yes, the GM system is "more complicated"...yes the compressors tend to need to be replaced every 50-60K miles (mine is still good at 95K miles).

Yes ALL shocks/struts wear out - tyhey are a Moving part.

yes ALL air bladder will eventually fail, they are a moving part.

Is 60, 70K, 80K+ miles acceptable for shocks - well compared to cars all the way up until the late 90's, anything more than 40K miles was outstanding, Id say for a heavy truck thats constantly adjusting ride height, and adjusting the shock stiffness in 2 different ranges 500 times per second...is really good.

Why buy a corvette then put a 4-cylinder engine in it? Why gut the LTZ's rather robust and high-tech ride system for a 1970's system?

Everything other than the ride height sensors and control module are priced affordable, and easy to change.

pwtr02ss said:
IMO you are better off keeping the GM function. I have replaced all four of mine and the complete compressor unit. The ride quality is incomparable between the GM shocks and the Arnoitts. I have ridden in both. Thats just my opinion. The shocks are very easy to change on the rear. You should be able to do it yourself in your driveway in under and hour. Its just 4 bolts and connections.
 
I was specifically speaking to the Arnott rebuilt OEM shocks. Not talking about the passive or Arnott shocks with sensor plugs.
 
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