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LTZ Autoride

The rebuilt OEM shocks have ONLY the bladder rebuilt. The fluids/seals/etc are all used with unknown miles.


For the cost, even though they still have a warranty on the rebuilts, I would suggest go with new OEM.
 
Yup :) I verified this with Arnott during several phone calls...made the decision E-Z  (y)

blu_fuz said:
The rebuilt OEM shocks have ONLY the bladder rebuilt. The fluids/seals/etc are all used with unknown miles.


For the cost, even though they still have a warranty on the rebuilts, I would suggest go with new OEM.
 
Just "Slightly"

Also...makes one wonder if the quality/level of the rest of their stuff is really that good...

Based on the results of their compressors from other members...

montoya32 said:
Kind of misleading to say they are rebuilt shocks, then.
 
40,000 miles + on my Arnott (new, not rebuilt) front shocks and rear air shocks and air compressor.

Absolutely perfect up to this point.

Will be high on my list of considerations if I need to replace these items in the future.

And my truck STILL rides like a Cadillac.

(y)
 
Arnott did replace my compressor, but I did find out that it was not the compressor from Arnott that was failing, it was the SENSOR mounted to the dryer canister. You don't get a new dryer or sensor with a new compressor purchase. The sensor has been updated since 2009 on new dryer units from GM. I replaced mine and all is well.
 
Not trying to offend anyone, but the LTZ with electronic Dampers rides significantly better than passive shocks. Drive any LTZ and immediately jump into a non LTZ and the ride difference is significant.

Caddies go one step further, they have Magnetically attenuated Dampers...they ride even better than the LTZ's by-state internal electronically controlled-valve dampers.

The Arnots do not drive like the factory LTZ electronic dampers. They have Plastic air reservoirs. Ive driven on both on my same truck...To my knowledge, Im the only person to have physically driven on a brand-new set of Arnott Passives and then OEM electronics in the same day.

The OEMs provide a much firmer ride with less bounce and far less fish-tail and sway than the Arnotts do. I tested with and without Load in the back of my truck (over 1000lbs of Boulders). It was indeed the bounciness and amount of roll/sway on the Arnotts that made me send them back and buy the OEMs.

Again - not trying to offend, but anyone looking for the best ride will not go to a passive damper vs the electronics.
 
No offence taken.

It's all good.

If the OEMs cost the same as the Arnotts then the OEMs would be my first choice.

But since I have driven both on first gen EXT's and I felt no seat-of-the-pants difference in the two, I will opt for the Arnotts primarily due to cost.

Your second gen truck it most likely laid out differently than my first gen so we are comparing apples to oranges.

I am glad you found a configuration you are happy with.

That is all they really matters.

But I don't think it is fair to make a blanket statement that the Arnott products should be completely avoided in all cases just based upon your preferences.

There are members here that may opt to not even get their trucks repaired because the cost of OEMs makes that prohibitive, but the lower cost and good performance of the Arnott products might just get their rig functioning correctly again.

I understand and concur with your statements, but I think the Arnotts make a good choice for some people and keep them from trying to jury-rig something to deal with DIC errors and sagging rear ends.

We see people here all of the time that have simply replaced their Auto-Ride gear with plain old shocks and they come here trying to figure out how to turn off the error in the DIC.

Not everyone is going to be able to shell out the dough for the OEMs.

Maybe the Arnotts would at least get things working properly again.

The Arnotts serve their purpose for me and I plan to stick with them until either I need to replace them with lower cost OEMs or another set of Arnotts.

I'm cool with either scenario.

As a side note, I was turned on to the Arnott product line by a good friend of mine that owns an exclusive repair shop that specializes in high-end European sports cars and luxury sedans.

Many of those cars, as you can imagine, have some pretty exotic suspensions.

This shop uses Arnott products to repair many of these vehicles.

Some of which cost more than my house.

I'm good with Arnott.
 
Its all good.


If I had the $$$ at the time, I would have gone with the OEM units as well. Simply came down to keeping as much of the original system functions for the least amount of money.

There might be a day I go back to a OEM rear shock (already have new OEM fronts), but for now, I'm content with my setup as well.
 
Oh yeah, the underside of the 2nd Gen Avs is completely different than the 1st gen...no torsion bars, and entirely different set up.

The OEM replacements up until about 1-yr ago were $750 per wheel - OUCH...they are now down to under $300/wheel so it made it an easy choice.

My 05 was a Z71, nice and stiff...the 07 LTZ actually has a smoother ride, but just as stiff as my 05 Z71. I test drove several newer model non LTZ non Z71 and the feeling was quite a bit different than the LTZ, at first I wanted a 2nd Gen Z71, but the LTZs had me sold. :)

thanks!  (y)

EXT4ME said:
No offence taken.

It's all good.

If the OEMs cost the same as the Arnotts then the OEMs would be my first choice.

But since I have driven both on first gen EXT's and I felt no seat-of-the-pants difference in the two, I will opt for the Arnotts primarily due to cost.

Your second gen truck it most likely laid out differently than my first gen so we are comparing apples to oranges.

I am glad you found a configuration you are happy with.

That is all they really matters.

But I don't think it is fair to make a blanket statement that the Arnott products should be completely avoided in all cases just based upon your preferences.

There are members here that may opt to not even get their trucks repaired because the cost of OEMs makes that prohibitive, but the lower cost and good performance of the Arnott products might just get their rig functioning correctly again.

I understand and concur with your statements, but I think the Arnotts make a good choice for some people and keep them from trying to jury-rig something to deal with DIC errors and sagging rear ends.

We see people here all of the time that have simply replaced their Auto-Ride gear with plain old shocks and they come here trying to figure out how to turn off the error in the DIC.

Not everyone is going to be able to shell out the dough for the OEMs.

Maybe the Arnotts would at least get things working properly again.

The Arnotts serve their purpose for me and I plan to stick with them until either I need to replace them with lower cost OEMs or another set of Arnotts.

I'm cool with either scenario.

As a side note, I was turned on to the Arnott product line by a good friend of mine that owns an exclusive repair shop that specializes in high-end European sports cars and luxury sedans.

Many of those cars, as you can imagine, have some pretty exotic suspensions.

This shop uses Arnott products to repair many of these vehicles.

Some of which cost more than my house.

I'm good with Arnott.
 
Peace of Mind/reliability can be another factor to consider.  As noted in this thread many posts ago, I went with the same setup as EXT4ME (Arnott air shock kit) only to downgrade after 5 months to their spring conversion kit.  Reason: my ESCM went bad, and dealership was quoting $850+ to replace....at which point I decided reliability was my top priority.
Do I miss the ride every time I cross RR tracks? Absolutely.  But with 180k on my Suburban now, and several other systems that can potentially fail, it's comforting knowing that I'll never have to fuss with the suspension system again.
BTW - in case anyone is interested - I finally got around to posting those slightly used Arnott kits in the For Sale section.   

 
 
Little update on my shocks. These are right at a year old and have about 5k miles. Never had a trailer on it or anything in the bed. I think there is a issue with these somewhere down the line. They are under warranty so I'm getting it replaced but I am taking about a 3k mile road trip for vacation and wont have the new shock in until I get back. This is the passenger side, driver looks fine and were ordered and replaced at the same time. It looks to me like the bellow isnt rolling under its self and it rubs a hole in it. You guys that have bought these may want to take a look at yours. I just happened to notice it while rotating the tires. The compressor is running for about 3 sec like its suppose to so I'm guessing they are not leaking yet.



 
Thats not good! ouch.

Ive been riding on mine for a while now, and Ive been under the truck several times, having notices and issues...hopefully its just a 1-off problem, if not, BWI is going to be replacing a lot of rear air shocks!
 
Well the truck made it the 3500 total miles but the shock is shot. The service suspension light came on the last 3 days but the compressor was still airing the driver side up. Have the new shock, just have to get it swapped out.
 
I have swapped the shock and its working properly. The service suspension light still comes on randomly at start up. The compressor is running as it should so I'm lost. How do you pull those codes?
 
Dealer only to pull the codes.

It sounds like mine was doing the same thing as yours. Suspension light at startup, pump would run for a few seconds and full suspension, but if I put a load on the hitch it wouldn't pump up.

Pressure sensor was bad on the dryer canister. The were $93 when I bough mine, then down to $65, now back up to over $100 on ebay.

Part number for new dryer, sensor, and harness adapter 22964558


http://chevyavalanchefanclub.com/cafcna/index.php/topic,131766.msg2078201.html#msg2078201
 
I have replaced the entire compressor assembly. It honestly feels like the front shock on the passenger side has taken a dump. Yes they are new as well.
 
I have a couple buddies. They use a tech II? I'm guessing the code is on the BCM correct? My HP Tuners wouldn't pull anything.
 
Used a snap on scanner and it pulled the code C0580 (awesome having friends)....right front damper malfunction. The new shock I bought from amazon failed. I called amazon and told them I needed a warranty replacement and was immediately told to contact the manufacturer. I wasn't satisfied with that so I called back and told them I had a defective item and they got me a replacement shipped out with overnight shipping and sent me a return shipping label....be aware of wording, it makes a difference  (y). I also noticed that I have got them infamous cracked dash so I'm getting frustrated with this truck. I guess I will replace that while I'm at it and cross my fingers that I can get a few months without something else breaking lol. 
 
Got the front strut swapped out last night?what a nightmare. As I'm jacking the truck up the defective struct basically blew apart, blowing the oil all over everything and scaring the poo out of me. Now the real issue wasn't the oil, its figuring out that the shaft that goes though the strut had actually came unscrewed and now I have a live, loaded spring with no way to get a spring compressor on it. After carefully taking the front end apart, I finally got the damn thing out without any casualties. I've never seen a strut/shock do this in my life. Heads up for some of you other folks. It looked like the shaft was cross threaded in when it was made because the threads were worn flat on one side.
 
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