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LTZ Autoride

OK guys - I have been reading this thread for an hour now - awesome info - thanks for all that you have posted here!

I just bought a 2007 LTZ with 111000 miles and its in very good condition and I too am getting a weird clunk and an occasional pop. The clunk feels like its toward the front of the truck and only happens on a straight acceleration from a stop light. The pop seems to come from around the drivers seat area when turning right.

The truck rides good, but I have never had auto ride so I don't know what to expect from it. Does this sound like a suspension issue and where and what do I start to check? As I read all the posts I get more confused!
Thanks in advance for your thoughts.
 
WOOOOHOOOOOO. Took this Female Dog into the stealer ship to get scanned. And all it needed was a factory ecm update. Whatever the fuk that's means. It was no charge for that thank god. That cleared my code and got my compressor running. Then they said that the rear shocks were not responding and needed to be replaced. DOH. So I had them pull the shocks and I returned them to who I bought them from. WARRANTY replacement. YESSS. New old shocks out and new  warranty Arnott rear shocks in. System works flawlessly for now... System cycles after every 2nd start or if there has been weight added or removed from box. Surprisingly not too loud in its new home. Had to hook up my camper and take it for a rip. Squats after hook up then levels out nicely and still rides like im sitting on my couch. Thanks to all who helped me out with all my endless questions and to all who have contributed to this thread.
Don't ever give up on these systems as they are a really a HUGE PAIN in the ass to fix at times but once working properly they are great. Just break it down piece by piece and without this thread I would have been royaly hooped.
 
Monkeyman, that is awesome news and you have the BLU FUZ relocation mod!!!!! Thank gawd the dealership service was FREEE and got your system rockin again.  :cool: (y)

Thanks for the update.
 
Arnott has been good to me too with replacement parts.  I went with their standard (non air) conversion package.  The "spoofer", (which splices into the ESCM under the spare tire) went bad from road salt and they promptly sent a new one.  And I recently had a conversation with them about my rear shocks feeling worn after 60k miles.  They said send 'em back for new ones. 
 
blu_fuz said:
The ass end of my truck has been really clunky over bumps the past couple weeks. Not sure what that's all about.



blu_fuz said:
I figured out why my truck was so clunky in the ass end recently........

Dave posted this info earlier in the thread that there is about 1" of shock shaft movement that is separate from the airbag. With my compressor failure and empty air bladders that 1" of movement ends up slapping against the empty air bladder causing the clunking noise I was hearing. When the bags are aired up, the bags expand and move WITH the shock and eliminates that 1" of play making the clunking noise go away.

No air = clunky Arnott shocks
Air = quiet Arnott shocks

^ this is going to be really annoying if I ever decide to not replace the air shocks again later. The truck will be clunking around even though the shock is still working but with an empty air bladder.




I have since purchased and installed AcDelco units and removed the Arnotts for 2 reasons. #1 troubleshooting the clunky noise over bumps, and #2 because of the bag-to-shock connection and to experience the ride quality difference.


#1 - The Arnott shocks had nothing to do with the clunky noise. After changing to AcDelco, the noise was still there. I'm happy to report that as of right now after replacing the rear brake pads and rotors, the noise was likely loose brake pads. The metal caliper clips that hold the brake pads were rotted away causing the pads to rattle in the caliper.  (y)

#2 - The  AcDelco shocks do ride noticeably different than the Arnotts, if you didn't try both you would never know. The AcDelco has a bit softer of a ride and the air bladder is supporting a load much better. With my camper hooked up, the Arnotts were doing their job but the truck still had about 1/2" reverse rake and now with the AcDelcos with the camper hooked up, the rockers are level.


I'm happy I switched, but I like OEM parts, so I could be bias  >:D.


IMG_5881_zpsnq7djjbj.jpg
 
Woolman24 said:
I had the same issue after a muffler shop did my install.  I called Arnott and they guessed that the shop forgot to re-attach a couple of rear clips.  I cannot remember what they are called, but they are located on TOP of the rear rails.  They are difficult to see so best if you climb under and feel for them.  I was able to see the passenger-side connection (color blue).  Sure enough, that was the problem and I was able to re-attach both very easily.

Fast forward a few months when I had a spring shop replace those same Arnott air shocks with the coil conversion kit.  The dashboard lit up with same warnings.  Sure enough, they TOO had forgotten to re-attach same 2 connections. 

The connections I'm referring to are oem (don't have anything to do with the Arnott wiring).  I've read that they detach very easily, so perhaps they just come undone without the installer realizing it??     

Sorry to bump an old thread, but I had to join to give props to this post - saved me from a trip to the dealer and having to pay a diag fee to get this figured out.  Changed the rear shocks on the Wife's 'burban and ended up with all the suspension related dash lights on after I finished.  Tried everything I could think of, including plugging in the old shocks, with no luck.  I was about ready to schedule something this coming week when I ran across this post.  I'm guessing I knocked the "blue connector" loose when reaching back to get to the upper shock bolt.  Reached up, snapped it back together, and voila, worked like a charm!!  Pretty sure it's the ABS sensor for the rear wheel (driver's side for me).

Anyway, thanks again!!

David
 
^ great to hear. That's why we all post these tid-bits of information. Saves us all money and we learn more about our trucks.  (y)
 
Checking my suspension today (08 LTZ 4x4) as I've had some uneven front tire wear even with frequent rotations. Fully expected to see AutoAdjusted suspension but all I see are 4 red shocks!
No hoses or wires to shocks, exposed Shrader valves only.
My AVY has always been & ran level while towing. Can't remember ever hearing a compressor.
The rear of the truck has never had that jacked up rear end like alot of others I've seen

Can anyone school me on my suspension package and what shock part# I should be looking for? Again, red shocks with a plastic sleeve on the tops. Looks simple.
 
Here is a picture of my original OEM blown out rear air shocks.



Note the air bladders that are blown out.

The one on the left shows the electrical connector at the top of the shock on the top mount.

The air connector is the capped part seen here below on the upper shock body right above the label.

I would imagine the LTZ shocks would be similar.

You can also see the air pump on your truck on the outer frame rail right behind the driver's side rear tire.

You can see it through the wheel well.

I'm not familiar with the shocks on the LTZ, but I don't remember anyone saying they were red.
 
I'm really hoping these are just premium gas shocks and No Autoride! But, I got the impression that LTZ71's would all have Autoride.

OK, I have "Premium Smooth Ride Suspension" and "Z71 Off Road Suspension Package"....apparently not "Autoride".
 
Hello,
Can anyone steer me toward the part number/parts fiche picture of the ESC module for a 2010 Avalanche LTZ?  May have to replace after I get diagnoses done and want to see/prepare myself for cost and location on the vehicle...

Thanks!
-John
 
Rear autoride shocks for 07+ are on sale again on Amazon for only $177 each with free shipping:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EDQ19EI?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00
 
I know this thread is old but I'm looking to see if anyone have purchased any shocks and a compressor lately. Looking for the best price to buy. Thanks
 
Not very old at all.

All of the information here is still relevant.
 
Just a note, I replaced all 4 shocks but needed to also replace UCA's and Lower ball joints....check them too.                                                                                                                                           
 
PakDoc said:
Just a note, I replaced all 4 shocks but needed to also replace UCA's and Lower ball joints....check them too.                                                                                                                                           

I just did my upper and lower control arms (with balljoints) as well as outer axle seals.  Huge job.  Pack a lunch.  I wrote a how-to... not my best work, but something.

http://chevyavalanchefanclub.com/cafcna/index.php/topic,147539.msg2115666.html#msg2115666

 
Hello,

Spent an hour or so reading this thread. I'm certainly not on the level of the people posting here in terms of mechanical knowledge. However, I have a 2007 Avalanche LTZ Autoride with about 131,000 miles.

About a week ago she developed a clunky noise coming from the front suspension. So I took it in to the shop today and the got the diagnosis. He told me that it would need a new strut (I assume this means the same as shock) and would be approximately $500 for the strut (shock?) alone. I told him I wanted to do some research and would get back to him. So after reading this page and replacement possibilities, I'm considering ordering some on my own to save some money. However, I don't want to order the wrong part. So here is what I'm considering:

http://www.jegs.com/i/ACDelco/065/580-372/10002/-1 (This is AC Delco Part # 580-372) Price - $303
http://www.gmpartsdirect.com/oe-gm/20810269  (This is from GM Direct Part # 20810269) - Price $421
http://www.gmpartsgiant.com/parts/gm-absorber-19300038.html?Vin=3GNFK12307G158756&Filter=()&Location=pd:, (GM Part No.: 1930003:cool: Price- $252
Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
 
EXT4ME said:
Just a couple of observations to pass on.

My air pump does not run on a daily basis and even after having sat up for several days.

The air shocks hold their air, no problem.

The only time I hear the pump running is when I lower my boat trailer on to the hitch and the hitch drops a couple of inches.

Even then, there is a delay of a minute or so before the pump kicks on.

I am sure this is to prevent the pump and release valve from cycling off and on during normal driving.


I have questioned how your system isn't firing the compressor on every time you turn the key over. With my arnott rear air shocks and now the AcDelco rear air shocks, my compressor would still turn on pretty much every time I would turn the key forward. No leaks, bags are tight, etc..... it has baffled me for a couple years now.


So check this out, I just replace with brand new OEM parts the rear track bar, rear upper control arm, rear lower control arm, and sway bar bushings (did endlinks and air shocks a year ago). Since replacing the worn out 180,000 mile arms the truck not only feels much better but my compressor does not run when I turn the key forward!  :cool:  I'm guessing that over the years/miles the rear end of the truck sags with no support from those worn arms/bushings and the ride height just sits below the point that the compressor kicks on, causing it to run when it isn't needed.

Now it only runs when I hook up our travel trailer and seems to be up about 1/4" from where it use to be in the back. This must be how the system was intended to be and now mine is working as it should.
 
blu_fuz said:
I have questioned how your system isn't firing the compressor on every time you turn the key over. With my arnott rear air shocks and now the AcDelco rear air shocks, my compressor would still turn on pretty much every time I would turn the key forward. No leaks, bags are tight, etc..... it has baffled me for a couple years now.


So check this out, I just replace with brand new OEM parts the rear track bar, rear upper control arm, rear lower control arm, and sway bar bushings (did endlinks and air shocks a year ago). Since replacing the worn out 180,000 mile arms the truck not only feels much better but my compressor does not run when I turn the key forward!  :cool:  I'm guessing that over the years/miles the rear end of the truck sags with no support from those worn arms/bushings and the ride height just sits below the point that the compressor kicks on, causing it to run when it isn't needed.

Now it only runs when I hook up our travel trailer and seems to be up about 1/4" from where it use to be in the back. This must be how the system was intended to be and now mine is working as it should.

Interesting that you bring this post back up.

It seems that now, some 3+ years later, my pump DOES kick on for a few brief seconds after the truck has sat overnight.

But back in the days of my earlier post, I never experienced the pump turn on unless I attached my party barge trailer and dropped the rear of the truck a couple of inches.

The pump doesn't run very long at start up but I can assume after some miles and years, the system may be starting to leak down more than when new.

It's hard getting old.

(y)
 
Hello All
Longtime lurker here..just picked up 2008 ltz which is third avy ive owned...read through these forums many times and particularly this thread...on my last avy I had replaced compressor and autoride/leveling was back to normal...on this new to me 2008 with 100k miles I have replaced the struts on all four corners with oem and replaced compressor unit oem as well.  my ride is harsh...my thoughts are the suspension control module is no good...rear leveling does work now that I replaced compressor unit..have no service suspension messages before or after replacing struts/compressor...have checked fuses and connections to struts...if I disconnect wires to struts get no error message...however still rides like shocks are set to very hard level...thoughts?
 
Sorry to bump the thread, but figured it has 4 years worth of knowledge in it - someone would sooner or later. This thread is A-MAZ-ING! Took me 3 hours over 2 days to read it in its entirity, but I DID IT! A major thanks to everyone who has contributed. I was heading down the road of the cheaper Arnott replacements but decided to do more research on if I was going to lose anything with those. Sure nuff', they are not the full autoride that I want to keep. SO glad I found this thread.

I had my 09 with 65,000 miles into the dealership for an oil change last week (I'm not that mechanically inept, just cannot argue with them @ $35 and they pick-up / drop-off from my work, rotate tires, lube everything, car wash and vacuum). They said that my rear air shocks were leaking. Up to this point I knew they were going to leak at some point, but thought 65k mi was awfully soon. My 07 Tahoe lasted 95k before the system failed (at day 89 of my 90 day 100% CarMax warranty :D )

According to all of the reports of a good vs. failing vs. totally failed system, mine seems to be good. I rarely hear my compressor kick on, and never notice any visible sag. Ride is impecable (this is my second LTZ and I will only own an LTZ due to the ride) and it lifts and vents properly when I hitch/remove a trailer. The rear end barely touches the water when launching my jet-skis and the underneath is very clean - very little rust. This weekend I plan on crawling under with some soapwater for my own diagnosis. After reading this thread I feel like an expert and nothing can stop me!



Now to my question. I've found the Amazon post everyone links to has this listed:
THIS PART HAS BEEN REPLACED BY NEWER ACDelco PART # 580-1094

Has anyone ordered the new 580-1094 https://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-580-1094-Original-Equipment-Absorber/dp/B014VZLJ7C/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1473828152&sr=1-1&keywords=580-1094?
 
HellHoof said:
Now to my question. I've found the Amazon post everyone links to has this listed:
Has anyone ordered the new 580-1094 https://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-580-1094-Original-Equipment-Absorber/dp/B014VZLJ7C/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1473828152&sr=1-1&keywords=580-1094?

Good on you for reading the whole thing.  So much great info!

I have a strong suspicion that part is identical just with a new sticker on it.  That price isn't the best we've seen, but it ain't bad either.  The rear shocks are an easy swap and you'll be happy you did it.  The fronts are more of a nuisance. 
 
That looks to be the most current updated part number and you should have no problem with install.

No pun intended but I am shocked your OEM ones are leaking already, but oh well.

I'm glad to have shared everything I learned even if it takes forever to read through. Good luck on the swap!
 
blu_fuz said:
No pun intended but I am shocked your OEM ones are leaking already, but oh well.


I can't find any evidence of a leak. I think the dealership was just looking for a payday. Oh well, when the time DOES come, I'll wait for Amazon prices to lower and do it myself. Thanks for all the help guys
 
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