This writeup is for anyone who has a dash that's beyond use and for those who don't want to buy a replacement dashboard. It's outlandish and unconventional but I tell you that I does work, and well.
2 Parts
Part 1, the why, the way and the madness.
Part 2, the method and walkthrough.
Back in 2019 I bought my first AV and had no idea the dash was beyond use. When I did my first cleaning on it I removed the rug cover lay to find a severely cracked dash with so many pieces missing. I bought the DashSkin as many of us do, but there wasn't enough to adhere it to so I just set it on top and drove for a few years while deciding how to fix it.
After talking to a few people I know and hearing the same thing over and over, buy a replacement dash that would either be cracked or crack in time.
I knew I wanted a permanent repair that wouldn't make noise, crack or need replacing. I also knew I wanted ease of removal. I despise any and all dash work because the dashboards are always in the way. Having these two goals I set to thinking.
At first I thought of using 3M hard Velcro to secure the skin as that stays fastened well and it's adhesive backing holds up in the Florida heat but decided against it because bit holds a little too well and removing the skin would be difficult and possibly tear it.
I then recalled how I fixed the read console cup holder door. I used a small piece of magnet to hold it closed.
That's when the wheels really began turning...I still had no direction or clue as to how I'd pull it off, but I knew this was what I was going to do.
Amazon sells neodymium magnets in a bar shape for about 12$ for 16 that have some serious holding power. I had already bought a set for my fridge and figured they'd be perfect. Plus this is what I used on the cup holder.
At first I had thought to use magnets on both sides, the frame and the skin, but then came across another product on Amazon. The small rectangular plates used in the back of cell phone cases to use in the car. I bought a set of 24, 12 round, 12 rectangular for about 12$ too.
Then I grabbed some JB Quick weld for the adhesive knowing this would hold long after the dash skin deteriorated from age, use or nuclear fallout.
My last piece to this puzzle was noise reduction. I searched and searched for stuff but kept coming across the sound deadener for cars. Not what I wanted, so I let the project sit a while longer.
Finally I came across a small piece of neoprene rubber in my unorganized mess of junk while looking for a specific screw size and thought this would be perfect. Back to Amazon for sourcing this. The widest I found was 17" by 60". Just too narrow but almost the 63" across I needed. I figured I'd use the 3M 90 headliner adhesive but the cost was wicked high and the availability was virtually non-existent.
I let the project stew for a while longer while I figured out a way to keep the squeaks and rattles down. Cardboard, rubber, felt, velour or velvet is what ran through my half functional mind.
Finally I decided on using the velour as I saw it used in a few spots around the truck. Just small pieces to keep parts from rubbing. Instead of buying it, I ran down to the local thrift store and bought a piece of clothing for under a buck.
At this point I knew I'd need a few more things. Time, a plan of attack, patience and the right tools.
TOOLS USED:
Phillips screwdriver
Flat screwdriver
Razor knife
Small bar clamps
Tin snips to cut the plates.
A used gift card for mixing and applying the epoxy
Scissors to gently trim the skin around the A pillar.
MATERIALS USED
DashSkin for AV
Small pieces of velour fabric for noise reduction
A little foam open cell also for noise reduction
A bit of aluminum tape to hold down the foam during fitment and testing
JB Quick weld
L Brackets 1" to secure the front lip of the skin to the frame
YOU MUST KEEP THREE PIECE OF YOUR OLD DASH
The passenger side from the fuse cover to the arm grab including the vent.
The middle vent to the arm grab.
The driver's side from the fuse cover to anywhere high enough to have something to secure it to.
Pictures in post 2 will show what I mean.
ESTIMATED TIME SPENT
This can be completed in a full day if motivated and everything is at your fingertips.
I spent four days on this as I live on an apartment and am on the second floor so I broke it up into steps.
Remove the original plastic off the dash. ( I just grabbed and snapped it out )
Test fit the skin and pre-measure.
Pre-measure and Mark in pencil
Epoxy the magnets and metal plates in place. Bar clamps hold securely till set.
Test fit several times to allow for additional magnets points.
Measure and epoxy more magnets, then test fit again.
Add velour at any contact points making noises.
Fit again and it was solid and quiet
Remember I had a front bezel to put on that had no place to clip into. Magnets to the rescue again... This time I had to build up the height of the magnets as the clips pressed pretty far into the original plastic dash that the skin didn't have.
I epoxied cut metal plates over the frame areas where the clips used to go and added small pieces of magnets to the top of the clip holders on the bezel. I only did the top four and left the bottom clips for insurance in keeping it from moving.
Test fit again, add more small magnets pieces to the bezel and fit again.
Once satisfied on fitment, I cut the velour to fit in specific places and glued it to both the skin and frame. Reattached the skin and bezel and it was done.
Next will be the step by step and pics.
2 Parts
Part 1, the why, the way and the madness.
Part 2, the method and walkthrough.
Back in 2019 I bought my first AV and had no idea the dash was beyond use. When I did my first cleaning on it I removed the rug cover lay to find a severely cracked dash with so many pieces missing. I bought the DashSkin as many of us do, but there wasn't enough to adhere it to so I just set it on top and drove for a few years while deciding how to fix it.
After talking to a few people I know and hearing the same thing over and over, buy a replacement dash that would either be cracked or crack in time.
I knew I wanted a permanent repair that wouldn't make noise, crack or need replacing. I also knew I wanted ease of removal. I despise any and all dash work because the dashboards are always in the way. Having these two goals I set to thinking.
At first I thought of using 3M hard Velcro to secure the skin as that stays fastened well and it's adhesive backing holds up in the Florida heat but decided against it because bit holds a little too well and removing the skin would be difficult and possibly tear it.
I then recalled how I fixed the read console cup holder door. I used a small piece of magnet to hold it closed.
That's when the wheels really began turning...I still had no direction or clue as to how I'd pull it off, but I knew this was what I was going to do.
Amazon sells neodymium magnets in a bar shape for about 12$ for 16 that have some serious holding power. I had already bought a set for my fridge and figured they'd be perfect. Plus this is what I used on the cup holder.
At first I had thought to use magnets on both sides, the frame and the skin, but then came across another product on Amazon. The small rectangular plates used in the back of cell phone cases to use in the car. I bought a set of 24, 12 round, 12 rectangular for about 12$ too.
Then I grabbed some JB Quick weld for the adhesive knowing this would hold long after the dash skin deteriorated from age, use or nuclear fallout.
My last piece to this puzzle was noise reduction. I searched and searched for stuff but kept coming across the sound deadener for cars. Not what I wanted, so I let the project sit a while longer.
Finally I came across a small piece of neoprene rubber in my unorganized mess of junk while looking for a specific screw size and thought this would be perfect. Back to Amazon for sourcing this. The widest I found was 17" by 60". Just too narrow but almost the 63" across I needed. I figured I'd use the 3M 90 headliner adhesive but the cost was wicked high and the availability was virtually non-existent.
I let the project stew for a while longer while I figured out a way to keep the squeaks and rattles down. Cardboard, rubber, felt, velour or velvet is what ran through my half functional mind.
Finally I decided on using the velour as I saw it used in a few spots around the truck. Just small pieces to keep parts from rubbing. Instead of buying it, I ran down to the local thrift store and bought a piece of clothing for under a buck.
At this point I knew I'd need a few more things. Time, a plan of attack, patience and the right tools.
TOOLS USED:
Phillips screwdriver
Flat screwdriver
Razor knife
Small bar clamps
Tin snips to cut the plates.
A used gift card for mixing and applying the epoxy
Scissors to gently trim the skin around the A pillar.
MATERIALS USED
DashSkin for AV
Small pieces of velour fabric for noise reduction
A little foam open cell also for noise reduction
A bit of aluminum tape to hold down the foam during fitment and testing
JB Quick weld
L Brackets 1" to secure the front lip of the skin to the frame
YOU MUST KEEP THREE PIECE OF YOUR OLD DASH
The passenger side from the fuse cover to the arm grab including the vent.
The middle vent to the arm grab.
The driver's side from the fuse cover to anywhere high enough to have something to secure it to.
Pictures in post 2 will show what I mean.
ESTIMATED TIME SPENT
This can be completed in a full day if motivated and everything is at your fingertips.
I spent four days on this as I live on an apartment and am on the second floor so I broke it up into steps.
Remove the original plastic off the dash. ( I just grabbed and snapped it out )
Test fit the skin and pre-measure.
Pre-measure and Mark in pencil
Epoxy the magnets and metal plates in place. Bar clamps hold securely till set.
Test fit several times to allow for additional magnets points.
Measure and epoxy more magnets, then test fit again.
Add velour at any contact points making noises.
Fit again and it was solid and quiet
Remember I had a front bezel to put on that had no place to clip into. Magnets to the rescue again... This time I had to build up the height of the magnets as the clips pressed pretty far into the original plastic dash that the skin didn't have.
I epoxied cut metal plates over the frame areas where the clips used to go and added small pieces of magnets to the top of the clip holders on the bezel. I only did the top four and left the bottom clips for insurance in keeping it from moving.
Test fit again, add more small magnets pieces to the bezel and fit again.
Once satisfied on fitment, I cut the velour to fit in specific places and glued it to both the skin and frame. Reattached the skin and bezel and it was done.
Next will be the step by step and pics.
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