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Magnetic DashSkin Write Up

Tacocat

Full Member
Joined
Mar 30, 2019
Messages
175
Location
South Fl
This writeup is for anyone who has a dash that's beyond use and for those who don't want to buy a replacement dashboard. It's outlandish and unconventional but I tell you that I does work, and well.

2 Parts
Part 1, the why, the way and the madness.
Part 2, the method and walkthrough.

Back in 2019 I bought my first AV and had no idea the dash was beyond use. When I did my first cleaning on it I removed the rug cover lay to find a severely cracked dash with so many pieces missing. I bought the DashSkin as many of us do, but there wasn't enough to adhere it to so I just set it on top and drove for a few years while deciding how to fix it.
After talking to a few people I know and hearing the same thing over and over, buy a replacement dash that would either be cracked or crack in time.
I knew I wanted a permanent repair that wouldn't make noise, crack or need replacing. I also knew I wanted ease of removal. I despise any and all dash work because the dashboards are always in the way. Having these two goals I set to thinking.
At first I thought of using 3M hard Velcro to secure the skin as that stays fastened well and it's adhesive backing holds up in the Florida heat but decided against it because bit holds a little too well and removing the skin would be difficult and possibly tear it.
I then recalled how I fixed the read console cup holder door. I used a small piece of magnet to hold it closed.
That's when the wheels really began turning...I still had no direction or clue as to how I'd pull it off, but I knew this was what I was going to do.
Amazon sells neodymium magnets in a bar shape for about 12$ for 16 that have some serious holding power. I had already bought a set for my fridge and figured they'd be perfect. Plus this is what I used on the cup holder.
At first I had thought to use magnets on both sides, the frame and the skin, but then came across another product on Amazon. The small rectangular plates used in the back of cell phone cases to use in the car. I bought a set of 24, 12 round, 12 rectangular for about 12$ too.
Then I grabbed some JB Quick weld for the adhesive knowing this would hold long after the dash skin deteriorated from age, use or nuclear fallout.
My last piece to this puzzle was noise reduction. I searched and searched for stuff but kept coming across the sound deadener for cars. Not what I wanted, so I let the project sit a while longer.
Finally I came across a small piece of neoprene rubber in my unorganized mess of junk while looking for a specific screw size and thought this would be perfect. Back to Amazon for sourcing this. The widest I found was 17" by 60". Just too narrow but almost the 63" across I needed. I figured I'd use the 3M 90 headliner adhesive but the cost was wicked high and the availability was virtually non-existent.
I let the project stew for a while longer while I figured out a way to keep the squeaks and rattles down. Cardboard, rubber, felt, velour or velvet is what ran through my half functional mind.
Finally I decided on using the velour as I saw it used in a few spots around the truck. Just small pieces to keep parts from rubbing. Instead of buying it, I ran down to the local thrift store and bought a piece of clothing for under a buck.
At this point I knew I'd need a few more things. Time, a plan of attack, patience and the right tools.

TOOLS USED:
Phillips screwdriver
Flat screwdriver
Razor knife
Small bar clamps
Tin snips to cut the plates.
A used gift card for mixing and applying the epoxy
Scissors to gently trim the skin around the A pillar.

MATERIALS USED
DashSkin for AV
Small pieces of velour fabric for noise reduction
A little foam open cell also for noise reduction
A bit of aluminum tape to hold down the foam during fitment and testing
JB Quick weld
L Brackets 1" to secure the front lip of the skin to the frame
YOU MUST KEEP THREE PIECE OF YOUR OLD DASH
The passenger side from the fuse cover to the arm grab including the vent.
The middle vent to the arm grab.
The driver's side from the fuse cover to anywhere high enough to have something to secure it to.

Pictures in post 2 will show what I mean.


ESTIMATED TIME SPENT

This can be completed in a full day if motivated and everything is at your fingertips.

I spent four days on this as I live on an apartment and am on the second floor so I broke it up into steps.
Remove the original plastic off the dash. ( I just grabbed and snapped it out )

Test fit the skin and pre-measure.

Pre-measure and Mark in pencil

Epoxy the magnets and metal plates in place. Bar clamps hold securely till set.

Test fit several times to allow for additional magnets points.

Measure and epoxy more magnets, then test fit again.

Add velour at any contact points making noises.

Fit again and it was solid and quiet

Remember I had a front bezel to put on that had no place to clip into. Magnets to the rescue again... This time I had to build up the height of the magnets as the clips pressed pretty far into the original plastic dash that the skin didn't have.
I epoxied cut metal plates over the frame areas where the clips used to go and added small pieces of magnets to the top of the clip holders on the bezel. I only did the top four and left the bottom clips for insurance in keeping it from moving.

Test fit again, add more small magnets pieces to the bezel and fit again.

Once satisfied on fitment, I cut the velour to fit in specific places and glued it to both the skin and frame. Reattached the skin and bezel and it was done.

Next will be the step by step and pics.
 
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Chevrolet Avalanche Magnetic Dash and Bezel

Note: When removing the original dashboard plastic, be careful not to damage the 2 passenger side vent holders or the drivers side corner. Not having these pieces will make the project more difficult and require fabrication of something to hold the 2 vents and the 2 fuse covers in place.

Note 2: The magnets draw up the epoxy because it is steel based. If the epoxy curls up around the top of the magnet, don’t worry. Just before it is completely set, you can carve it away with a sharp blade. (see pic of brace)

I had to source the vent parts from a junker vehicle as I didn’t have the foresight to save mine.

1.Begin by removing the bezel. Turn the key to the on position and shift into 1st. Then pull forward on the bezel. It will pop out. Tilt it forward at the top to clear the dash and lift out.

2. Remove the bolts securing the front lip of the dash and toss into the cup holder.

3. Remove the vents on the passenger side. They pry out easily using a small plastic putty knife. Remove the screws inside each vent hole and the screws on each side of the dash under the fuse covers.

4. Remove the passenger grab bar using the 2 buttons inside the passenger vent holes. It slides out easily.

5. I continue to remove plastic parts from the dash. Again take care not to damage the areas that secure the vents and both sides of the dash. There is a screw in the bottom of each vent. It’s pretty long and needs to be used along with the original piece of dash here.

6. When working near the windshield and light sensor, be careful of the wires. Also note: Keep the 6 clips along the windshield side of the dash. They will be used to secure the new skin to the frame.

7. Once everything is out, clean the dash with a shop vac, then use the small 1” L brackets for securing the skin to the front of the frame. You’ll need to bend the bracket outwards a little as the original dash had a slightly raised curvature. Magnet on bracket to show fitment.
PXL_20210626_140910097.jpg

8. Take the dashskin and test fit. Then mark the places on the front of the skin where the front lip L bracket bolts align and also the places where the bezel clips, clip into. If you need to, mock fit the bezel to see where the clips go. Also, look for any areas you might want to add cushioning like above the airbag or near the instrument panel.
PXL_20210530_155051065.jpg
9. Pull the skin forward some so you reveal the front of the dash frame and part of the 6 clips. When you see where the 6 clips are, mark these locations as well. This is where we will epoxy metal plates to.
Image: 3 clips near the windshield without the braces.
PXL_20210516_130633243.jpg
10. Prep your work space for the epoxy job. Get your skin, cell phone plates, the 6 braces, small bar clamps, magnets and an old gift card. I cut the card into small mixers that I also used to apply the epoxy.

11. Scuff the underside of the skin and apply epoxy onto the center of the scuffed area. Remove the adhesive backing from the cell phone plate and place it onto the skin where the epoxy is. Clamp firmly with a bar clamp. While the epoxy is still malleable, spread more of it around all the edges.
PXL_20210529_162118301.jpg
12. Break in half and fasten those magnets to the areas on the front lip where the marks for the L brackets are. Scuff and epoxy the magnets into place. A small piece works fine. I did not use clamps here because the magnets were so small. Instead I just held it in place till set. Use acetone to remove any from your hands.
PXL_20210530_155921466.jpg
13. Epoxy magnets to the top of each arm of the 6 braces for the front windshield part of the dash frame. I used a lot of epoxy here and covered the back side as well, hoping for a truly secure hold. It was here that the epoxy began to curl over the top of the magnet. Let it almost set, then come back across the surface with a flexible razor blade shaving it off.
PXL_20210529_194440176.PORTRAIT.jpg
14. Epoxy the braces into the clips by the windshield. This prevents them from coming out with the skin and helps keep the skin in place more securely.
PXL_20210530_154436405.PORTRAIT.jpg
15. Epoxy metal plates to cover the dips in the front frame which we will secure the bezel to. I roughly cut the plates into narrow strips, scuffed the dash frame and held them in place by hand as the epoxy set. I left these to fully cure before test fitting the bezel. The one that fell off was the driver's top corner. I haven’t repaired it yet.
PXL_20210626_140759556.MP.jpg
16. On the bezel, scratch the 4 top clip holders down the sides with a sharp object, then mix and lay some epoxy down. I allowed the epoxy to semi-set before applying so it would not drip or sag too much. Now sit the magnet piece on top and hold it centered in place until set. Add more epoxy as needed to ensure a secure hold.

17. Test fit again in several hours after the epoxy has cured. Mark any areas needing magnets or metal plates. I needed two right above the air bag. I then set out to secure the sides using the saved pieces from the original dash.


Note: Since I had to source from a junker, the pieces I got were in such poor condition, I needed to fabricate the place where the screw went through. Again, I used epoxy and drilled through it after marking.
PXL_20210626_140822356.jpg

18. Using a dremel, I cut away a large hole in the side of the right most passenger vent piece. I then epoxied a magnet into place flush with the piece. On the skin, I epoxied a metal plate. Repeat for the driver side.

Afterthought: cut a smaller hole in the side and flush fit the magnet into the dash.

19. Install and take a ride. Listen for any squeaks, scraping sounds or noises. Identify their locations and use any sound deadener where needed. I used some open cell foam just above the air bag and near the A pillars, then a little velour on the frame edge in some spots.

Overall I believe this to be a solid modification using the cheapest method available that will provide both ease of access and longevity in repair. The magnets are rated for temps higher than the car's interior gets. The epoxy will hold long after the truck disintegrates and the ABS skin should remain flexible for years and years. Besides, it looks like a factory job.

Hope you all enjoyed listening to me ramble on about the project, but more so, hope you can use it.

Added several pics.
 

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