Make 12v power outlets switched

[Djurre-Avalanche]

I found this solution on this forum:

"I also have a Garmin GPS which I plug into the dash power outlets. I was pissed to see that my 2007 AV dash outlets are hot all the time.

I could not find a quick fix via the drivers side fuse box. What I did learn is that the these power outlets are also on the same circuit as the OBD Diagnostic Port. (Plug under dash for plugging in a Programmer or Diagnostic scan tool).

I found and removed the fuse for the Dash power outlets/ cigar lighter under the hood fuse box # 53 (20 amp) and tried to jump the load side of it to another fused circuit used by the backup camera circuit (10 amp) fuse # 43 using a jumper wire on the load side.

That converted my Power outlets to only be hot when the ignition is on.

I bought a Predator Programmer and when I tried to install the tune, it failed when I was asked to cycle the ignition key on and off.  Jumping the Acc. Power Outlet Circuit to a ignition only circuit killed the Diagnostic Port's "Hot all the time" requirement.

Fuse Number 43 under the hood is on the ignition circuit so if you tap into that fuse you will have a ignition only hot wire. "

Will this solution work on a 2003 AV also?

What are the pro's and con's?

 

[chavey]

As and ye shall receive: Switched Cigarette Lighter

Fuse box should be the same for 2003-2006.  (Not sure for 2002s)

 

[Djurre-Avalanche]

As and ye shall receive: Switched Cigarette Lighter

Fuse box should be the same for 2003-2006.  (Not sure for 2002s)

Yes I had read that solution, but I don't want to run whole new wires from the sockets.
I just want to make a modification in the underhood fuse box so my outlets will be switched, just as described in the solution I found.
Is such solution available for a 2003 avalanche?

 

[Djurre-Avalanche]

Anyone?

 

[ygmn]

you could cut wires to them
Then reconnect them to a relay that is then turned on by Ignition wire...

 

[seanriddle]

I know this is an old post, but I came across it a few days ago from Google and it has the best info.

I've got a 2012 LTZ that has 4 power sockets, all of which are powered all the time.  I wanted to have the right dash socket and the one in the console turn off with the vehicle, and I didn't care about the other 2.  I didn't want to cut or splice any wires, or even remove any trim.

I started with the fuse box under the hood.  On my vehicle, fuse 53 protects the left socket and the OBD, but not the other 3 sockets.  After some more poking around, I discovered that fuse 72 protects the other 3 sockets, but many other things as well.

I moved on to the driver side fuse box; fuse 16 protects just those 3 sockets, as far as I can tell.  So I figured I'd reroute power using a couple of add-a-circuit cables (like the Buss BP/HHH).  I'd use one as normal to tap into a switched power circuit, then use another differently- I'd only install the upper fuse, and plug the cable in so that its wire was connected to the sockets.  Then I'd connect the wires from the 2 add-a-circuits, and the sockets would be powered from the switched circuit.

The only problem is that only one circuit in the driver side fuse box is switched- all the others are hot all the time or are for the power locks.  The one that's switched is for the steering wheel controls backlight, and is only rated at 2A.  I figured I'd try it anyway, since I'm not going to be drawing much.  But my equipment acted funny, turning on and off on its own.  My next idea was to use the 2A circuit to power a relay to switch the sockets on and off from the 20A circuit, but then I realized the problem- since the 2A circuit is for backlights, it was under control of the daylight sensor, and was turning off when it was bright out.  So in my garage it would usually work, but on the street during the day it would not.  So back to square one.

I did some more digging here and found the link to the electrical diagrams on the GM Upfitter site, which showed me the MBEC.  I used an add-a-circuit cable in the driver side fuse box on fuse 16 (with just the upper fuse installed, and the add-a-circuit oriented correctly) and spliced it to a longer cable that ended with a spade connector that I pushed on the open MBEC connector pin 7 Run/Crank feed 10A.  Now those 3 sockets are only on when the key is on!  It's an easy feed from the driver side fuse box to the MBEC.  No cuts, splices, tear down, holes drilled, etc, and it's completely reversible in just a couple of minutes.

 

[SNES Kirby's Avalanche]

I did some more digging here and found the link to the electrical diagrams on the GM Upfitter site, which showed me the MBEC. I used an add-a-circuit cable in the driver side fuse box on fuse 16 (with just the upper fuse installed, and the add-a-circuit oriented correctly) and spliced it to a longer cable that ended with a spade connector that I pushed on the open MBEC connector pin 7 Run/Crank feed 10A. Now those 3 sockets are only on when the key is on! It's an easy feed from the driver side fuse box to the MBEC. No cuts, splices, tear down, holes drilled, etc, and it's completely reversible in just a couple of minutes.

Old Thread but does anyone see an issue with replicating what this user did years ago?

Essentially they used the Add-a-circuit to move power feed from the battery to the MBEC Connector Pin 7 Run/Crank. My concern here is should this have a diode and the stock fuse is 20A while the MBEC only feeds 10A.