chevy04
Full Member
I was interested in forcing more air, and cooler air down the intake tube from the air box, so today I created a triangle lid top box that is fastened to the top air box lid giving aproximately twice the volume of air in the stock box and having it push/pulled into the intake.
I cut the original lid leaving a lip to attach the tiangle box with the slant facing the intake tube. I figured since the air pickup was located on the bottom left of the stock air box, this would make the best force intake. I did not have to ruin any factory parts like the intake tube and sensor connection as they are fitted to the triangle top, and continue to act as they did original except at a angle now. The neat part is this is very inexpensive to do. I used plexiglass (1/4 inch), and just bonded all sides and parts togeather to make a air tight lid. I left it clear to see what is passing through the filter (K&N) to the intake.
I had very good engine response from the increased air space collecting more air. I think I will add the extra air capacity chamber the factiry uses and calls high intake. There was no addtional engine noise to give a vacum sound, but there was more lower end power definatly. I have added my Davis Carchip and will run it a day and see the results. I am going to trade info with Redshift to see how the engines compare since the Carchip is collecting the data on air flow. I already have the before info, now I am going to see if this really is something or just inmagination. The collection numbers won't lie. I am hopeing this will give more forced cooler air with a push/pull effect, and no water intake worries since the slant faces the intake tube. Whatever the engine air calls for, this mod I hope will do the job. It also does not need any hood seals or anything like that. The cut factory lid works well since I needed both pieces.
If this fails, and I don't think it will, all I need to buy is a new air lid. If anyome has tried this already please let me know your results.
Thanks,
Steve
I cut the original lid leaving a lip to attach the tiangle box with the slant facing the intake tube. I figured since the air pickup was located on the bottom left of the stock air box, this would make the best force intake. I did not have to ruin any factory parts like the intake tube and sensor connection as they are fitted to the triangle top, and continue to act as they did original except at a angle now. The neat part is this is very inexpensive to do. I used plexiglass (1/4 inch), and just bonded all sides and parts togeather to make a air tight lid. I left it clear to see what is passing through the filter (K&N) to the intake.
I had very good engine response from the increased air space collecting more air. I think I will add the extra air capacity chamber the factiry uses and calls high intake. There was no addtional engine noise to give a vacum sound, but there was more lower end power definatly. I have added my Davis Carchip and will run it a day and see the results. I am going to trade info with Redshift to see how the engines compare since the Carchip is collecting the data on air flow. I already have the before info, now I am going to see if this really is something or just inmagination. The collection numbers won't lie. I am hopeing this will give more forced cooler air with a push/pull effect, and no water intake worries since the slant faces the intake tube. Whatever the engine air calls for, this mod I hope will do the job. It also does not need any hood seals or anything like that. The cut factory lid works well since I needed both pieces.
If this fails, and I don't think it will, all I need to buy is a new air lid. If anyome has tried this already please let me know your results.
Thanks,
Steve
