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no compressor noise at startup lately

No Tyme

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Jul 27, 2011
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466
Location
Monroe County Michigan
He fellow AV owners, I have a 13 LTZ with auto ride. The truck has always cycled the air compressor with each turn of the key, but the last several starts I have not heard it cycle. It has been very cold but that should not make a difference. I am going to grab the owner?s manual and see if there is a dedicated fuse for the compressor but think I may have a problem.
What are your thoughts?
 
Drop your tailgate, go around and turn the key on (you do not have to start the truck), and then have a seat on the tail gate.

The compressor should turn on to adjust for the drop of the rear of the truck after 10-20 seconds or so.

That should let you know if the compressor is still functional.
 
If it doesn't kick on after EXT4ME's test, check the fuses

Borrowed from suncoreindustries.com:
There are three fuses used specifically for the suspension, and if one fails it could be the cause of your issues. The Real-Time Dampening fuse is located in the under hood fuse block, labeled RTD and is usually a 30 amp fuse, and also located in the under hood fuse block is the STUD #1 fuse, which is often a 40 amp fuse. One more fuse is located in the instrument panel fuse block, labeled IGN 3 and is often a 10 amp fuse. Checking these with a multimeter on continuity will let you know if any are blown, and your suspension problems could be solved by simply replacing one of these components.
 
BainMan said:
If it doesn't kick on after EXT4ME's test, check the fuses

Borrowed from suncoreindustries.com:
There are three fuses used specifically for the suspension, and if one fails it could be the cause of your issues. The Real-Time Dampening fuse is located in the under hood fuse block, labeled RTD and is usually a 30 amp fuse, and also located in the under hood fuse block is the STUD #1 fuse, which is often a 40 amp fuse. One more fuse is located in the instrument panel fuse block, labeled IGN 3 and is often a 10 amp fuse. Checking these with a multimeter on continuity will let you know if any are blown, and your suspension problems could be solved by simply replacing one of these components.

Well, tried putting my 240 lbs. on the tailgate and that got no results to kicking on the compressor. So on to checking fuses, and under the hood. My 13 Owners manual shows under the hood #2 for Auto level Control Exhaust looks good, (my #1 shows right trailer stop/turn) # 54 which is labeled Automatic Level Control Compressor Relay, also looks good and

Well, tried putting my 240 lbs. on the tailgate and that got no results to kicking on the compressor. So on to checking fuses:
My 13 Owner?s manual shows under the hood #2 30 amp (just left of 5:cool: for Auto level Control Exhaust which looks good, continuity shows good. (my #1 shows right trailer stop/turn).
# 54 which is labeled Automatic Level Control Compressor Relay, (which is a fuse NOT a relay the way I see it) also shows good with continuity tester.
ON PAGE 10-38 I see #58 Auto level Control Compressor which is a larger fuse. Not quite sure how to remove, but the top came off and I did take continuity tester to the wires inside and it seems good.
I fine nothing at the end of the dash fuse block in the manual labeled for Auto Ride.
Will continue to look.

I know the compressor location has a lack of protection on the side facing the center of the truck and thought a couple of time to try and enclose it in a better way to protect it from road debri and such but not sure if that is the issue.
 
Test for power and ground at the compressor. Does your volt meter have a max value setting? Might be helpful as the power may be supplied momentarily and shut itself off quickly when the compressor doesn't start up.

Also, can the compressor be manually tested, as in supply 12v direct from the battery or some other 12v source? Let me know if you get this far, might be able to dig up wiring pinouts for that connector.
 
PM me your email address  :cool:

If and when we get your issue fixed, I want details on how you lifted the LTZ and are still using air ride. =)
 
BainMan said:
Test for power and ground at the compressor. Does your volt meter have a max value setting? Might be helpful as the power may be supplied momentarily and shut itself off quickly when the compressor doesn't start up.

Also, can the compressor be manually tested, as in supply 12v direct from the battery or some other 12v source? Let me know if you get this far, might be able to dig up wiring pinouts for that connector.

I do have a jump box that I could use as a temporary power source. I may look into this over the weekend if I can get it back into the heated shop.
 
My 230 pounds is enough to set off the compressor, so I'm sure your test weight is also plenty.

There is a member here that had moved his air compressor into the driver's side saddle bag for better protection.

I'm not sure if he is still active, but a search of the forum might yield some results for the project.
 
EXT4ME said:
My 230 pounds is enough to set off the compressor, so I'm sure your test weight is also plenty.

There is a member here that had moved his air compressor into the driver's side saddle bag for better protection.

I'm not sure if he is still active, but a search of the forum might yield some results for the project.

Ya, I seen that post. C@@L idea but I do have my side bags full of stuff and I still have a bumper to bumper on my 13 and that may be good enough reason to deny a bad compressor.
 
No Tyme said:
Ya, I seen that post. C@@L idea but I do have my side bags full of stuff and I still have a bumper to bumper on my 13 and that may be good enough reason to deny a bad compressor.
It's under warranty? I withdraw all previous statements, drive to the dealer.  (y)
 
BainMan said:
It's under warranty? I withdraw all previous statements, drive to the dealer.  (y)
I had hoped it was something simple, as the lift I have on the truck may just be enough for the dealer to void the warranty.
 
Well the word is the compressor will be replaced under warranty as well as one of the shocks. But now I am thinking I will have one new shock and one  shock close to 8 years old (my 13 was a very early build). Service manager doesn't think I need to replace the other one at my cost, but my thought is if the old shock would go, that could burn up the new compressor.
So I considered purchasing a pair of Arnott' for the truck for $425, which is less than the cost of 1 OEM air shock.
Has anyone been in this pickle before? What would you do? Another OEM or a pair of Arnott's?
 
I am not sure what Arnott products are available for your truck, but when I bought my Arnott replacement air shocks for my EXT back in 2012, the shocks were Bilstein air shocks and they came with the bypass resistors to attach to the wiring that went to the OEM air shocks.

If the Arnott shocks you are looking at have electrical connections the same as the OEM shocks, I see no reason to not go with the Arnotts.

Either way, my Arnott gear has been in service for over 7 years and more than 100K miles now with no complaints.
 
EXT4ME said:
I am not sure what Arnott products are available for your truck, but when I bought my Arnott replacement air shocks for my EXT back in 2012, the shocks were Bilstein air shocks and they came with the bypass resistors to attach to the wiring that went to the OEM air shocks.

I was on the web page for Arnott and in the chat session the fellow said the model AS-2708 are a direct replacement to the stock AutoRide shock, which is most likely a refurbished OEM GM shock. I like the life time warranty, just return the broken one and they will replacement. My best price is $535.60 but that includes the $100 return core charge. Now if I could find someone interested in the new OEM I just had installed this would be a no brainer for me.
 
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