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Relocating The Trailer Wiring Plug

jackalanche

jackalanche

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ok, after some heavy off-road fun on Sunday (very wet and muddy here in the northeast) which invloved some really deep ruts, I again ended up abusing the area of the trailer wiring plug, the metal face plate gets it and tends to bend back, not to mention the abuse to the back side of the plug unit and the wiring. Too much more of this abuse and I fear for this plug thing :3:

Y'all probably know just what I mean. Question is have any members relocated this unit to a less exposed location ?
 
I have not moved it, but I would also be interested in moving mine (I bent it yesterday as well) :cautious:
 
Crexis said:
I have not moved it, but I would also be interested in moving mine (I bent it yesterday as well) ?:cautious:
Click to expand...

How about a heavy duty "U" bracket to act as a skid plate?
 
I need to move mine as well. It got out of wack the same time the cladding over the rear bumper got torn. any one else have this problem? I wonder if there's a glue that would fix a tear so I wouldn't have to buy the whole thing. It's bad enough my wife saw it. Good thing I built an extra big doghouse!! Joe
 
xrover, got my eye on that spot too - but I need NASA to help me put a hole in that steel there. :p
 
jackalanche said:
xrover, got my eye on that spot too - but I need NASA to help me put a hole in that steel there. :p
Click to expand...

Thats what light sabers are for. ;D

Try a small body shop, they might work with you for a small fee.
 
The area to the left of the license plate is prime real estate. Had my bumper off to fix accident and the metal there is rather thin. Should be no problem.

Legend
 
I did it yesterday !!!

I removed the Plug and had the bracket torched off. I cut a 2" hole to the left of the License Plate using a Bi-Metal Hole Saw. I notched out the plastic cladding just like the bracket is nothced. I had to trim some plastic from the plug mounting base so that it would squeeze in between the bumper and the plastic bumper cover.

It is a very tight fit !!! but is secure.

I placed some sealant around the edges to keep water from running back onto the bumper. I still need to trim the sealant once it is dry so that it looks more professional.

TrailerPlug.jpg
 
Thanks G Man,

I am a little dissapointed in my finishing detail but It is a work truck not a show truck. Nevertheless, I still need to clean up the sealing job.
 
Great job! I looks wonderful! I'll give it shot maybe next weekend. Do you have a torch or did you take it somewhere to have the old bracket removed? I was thinking of my sawzall and shot of black spraypaint on the raw edge, but a flame cut would be much cleaner.

Again, great job!
 
While I was at the muffler shop I had the guy torch it off.
By the way, I exchanged my Flowmaster 40 series for a 70 series. No more in cab resonance..

Cutting the hole through the metal backing requires a good sharp hole saw. I first attempted it with my standard Blu Mol hole saw which turned to crap. I had to go buy a new BI Metal one which cut right through it.
 
Not yet having pulled the plug assembly out ot measure it, can you tell me how big the hole saw needs to be to get a nice snug fit? When the guy torched off the old bracket, did you have the plastic off the bumper? Just wondering about a torch cut that close to plastic causing melting...?
 
Hi Crexis,

1 15/16 to be exact. I don't think you'll find a hole saw that size though. I used a 2" because that was what was available at the stores.

I left the plastic on when the guy torched off the bracket. The plastic in that area is easily moved out of the way with your hand so there was no melting or damage. If the torcher knows what he/she is doing, there will be no problem.
 
What's the mechanism for holding the unit in place? Does it bolt/screw into the new position or are there some type of locking tabs?

Think it would be possible to make a gasket from an old inner tube to seal between connector and bumper cover?

Great job, X.
 
What is the small rectangular door looking thing to the RIGHT side of the license plate when viewing from behind? Would be great if there was a way to duplicate that (new door, reversed and placed on the other side) to cover the 7-pin wiring harness so everything looked all nice and symmetrical.

Just a thought.

 
TXAVy said:
What is the small rectangular door looking thing to the RIGHT side of the license plate when viewing from behind? Would be great if there was a way to duplicate that (new door, reversed and placed on the other side) to cover the 7-pin wiring harness so everything looked all nice and symmetrical.

Just a thought.
Click to expand...

That is the cover door for the lock cylinder you remove for the spare tire lowering mechanism.

 
HBear said:
That is the cover door for the lock cylinder you remove for the spare tire lowering mechanism.
Click to expand...

Found a pic (attached) of what I was talking about on SimTechRay's site. So what do you think about duplicating that door on the other side to be a Wiring Harnes Cover?


[attachment deleted by admin larger then 100KB]
 
Hey TXAVy,

I don't think you would want to use the same style door as the spare tire lock cover. It is just a cover. The spring loaded and weather sealed Hitch Plug cover is really outstanding for what it was designed for. It really keeps the plug sealed off from the elements when closed. When the trailer plug is inserted, the spring loaded cover keeps the plig in place and prevents it from working loose.

Hey Timcosco,

The unit is just installed with a 1/4 turn rotation and then it clicks into place. There is a little tab on the end of one of the lugs which holds it from rotating in the stock metal bracket. After installing it in the bumper, It was such a tight fit that I wasn't concerned with it moving around. Nevertheless, I did put a screw through the bumper cover and plug.

http://home.earthlink.net/~tacorp/_uimages/TrailerPlug2.jpg
 
XRover said:
The unit is just installed with a 1/4 turn rotation and then it clicks into place.
Click to expand...
Got it... thanks. Found a 2" hole saw in the toolbox here at work, but didn't have a chance to try it out over the weekend. Maybe next weekend. This is a really great mod, IMO. Thanks again for posting the info and pics.
 
Hey Timcosco, Just make sure the hole saw's theeth are sharp and more important, that is a Bi Metal saw. The standard Hole Saw Blades are for wood and will dull rather quickly when it hits the metal bumber. I found this out the hard way.... :(

Good luck

Lenny
 
The other day I was out with a buddy truck shopping and he was looking at Ford's and Dodge's.

I tried to get him to consider the AV route :(

I noticed that Ford positions their bracket the same as Chevy. Now I will have to give credit to Dodge. They have their bracket on the back, but it is above the hitch and in a steel frame, so it won't get bent.

I wonder if Ford and Chevy have noticed this improvement by Dodge.

 
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