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Solid truck or money pit?

D

diditmyself

Full Member
Joined
Feb 23, 2022
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Hey all, I'd love to get some experienced thoughts on an Avalanche I'm considering buying. I'm mechanically inclined and pretty handy but I don't know the full ins and outs of the truck world yet.

2004 Z71 trim, 196k miles. Upstate NY car, but the entire frame is extremely solid. Typical rust but the best frame I've seen in NY on a 18yr vehicle. Asking just under $7k.

In the past year, the owner has replaced plugs and coils, done oil changes regularly, rebuilt front and rear suspension almost completely, added a brand new borelli custom dual exhaust, rear air lift bags for the suspension, transmission cooler, new battery and alternator. Comes with a full set of new winter rims and tires as well as rims for summer tires.

As for the bad, it needs a new front windshield, new glovebox cover, new summer tires, would need some body panels redone in a couple years from rust, new foot treads for the side steps, couple little odds and ends.

The big kicker though is immediately after he replaced the alternator and battery the dash gauges are all dead, battery and ABS lights are on, window and door locks are dead, but the radio stays on. Seems upfront like a simple fix but I don't want to have to immediately dive into a huge electrical or ecm/BCM issue if it is that complex. Starts and runs just fine as is though.

I was concerned about someone wenching on the truck themselves with parts from who knows where, but he seems like he has a legit shop and repairs his landscaping equipment there as well. As a wrencher myself I got the feeling he knew what he was doing.

I'd really appreciate some advice here as Im a little stumped on whether to buy or pass.
 
When I read about electrical issues and rust on the same vehicle, the vehicle grounds always come to mind for me.

There are several ground points on these trucks and a couple of the main ones are in the common rust zones.

I would start by locating all of the ground points and clean and verify each one.

There are posts in this forum that discuss the ground point locations along with common problems and fixes.

Best of luck with your new truck.

:) (y)
 
Some of your questions can be answered in this thread:

Things to check and consider before buying a used AV or EXT

Many threads have been started by members asking if an AV is a good deal or does it have problems etc. While nobody can come up with an all inclusive list of ideas and concerns here are some areas to consider and will be added to over time. Those replying to this post feel free to add your...
www.chevyavalanchefanclub.com www.chevyavalanchefanclub.com

Since the owner has done much of the work himself there may not be much of a paper trail to check for maintenance, accidents or flooding etc.
Good luck with your decision, only you can decide f you have the money, time and skills to restore that particular AV.
That being said assuming it hasn't been neglected or abused, once restored you may have an AV that goes 300,000 miles or more.

Welcome to the website!
 
In comparison, Last October I bought an 04 Avalanche 1500 4X4 Z71, 180K miles, I got her quite cheap but in need of TLC... runs good, just like you describe, my hammer test on the frame is good, rust around the wheel wells and rockers, had a broken W/S,
all in all I
Had the W/S replaced for just under $300,
Installed power trailer towing mirrors cause I like 'em better $150,
New hinge pins for front doors $20 so they would close correctly.
Front window regulators $80. so the passenger window would work again, Drivers side still works, a good weather day and these parts can be installed.
Junk yard driver side door switch assembly $30,
Parts to fix tailgate latch <$20 (plus a day of my life),
<$50 for synth oil and all filters,
<$20 worth of junkyard plastic trim crap for the interior,
The spare tire rim was so rusted the rim proper was (is) an airleak, a junkyard replacement rim w/ a good tire was $40.
Replaced the non functional cigar lighter with a USB port so my wife can plug in her phone <$5.
With what I paid for her and parts I've bought so far: I've got about $1 k in her..+ registration fees. Note there are no $$$ allotted for my time/ labor. Even though I didn't put full coverage on her my insurance guy (makes a living by SEELING me insurance) suggested I do get full coverage, because he alleges it is worth $4K...

Granted there are still issues to address, the radio is intermittent (I believe the pins inside the radio are bad), The digital HVAC controls only have 1/2 of the lights working, the tachometer works about 50% of the time, but all the other gauges seem accurate. (inst panel rebuild is around $100 when I decide to send it out to be done). The drivers side floor pan has a rust hole, I covered the hole w/ plywood until winter is over and I can replace it. These are annoyances that I plan to address after the winter cold and the need for a 4X4 on the road is replaced by summer weather. The downside is, once I fix all that crap, my wife might want to drive the AV :D :D ...

Even though anything new is in the $50K range, and considering it is NY state, where everything costs more due to everyones tax burden: to ME $7K seems high, $5K or less seems fair, knowing it will take some time and dollars to bring it to where you want it. Take my $$$ / value opinion with a grain of salt, seems every used car nowadays costs significantly more than I think it should..
 
Moving from Buffalo NY to Colorado (where they don't use salt on the streets) I'd never buy any vehicle that's been infected with road salts. I'm pretty spoiled here. It seems like a lot of money for an older AV exposed to NY road salts. Maybe do a CL search for states that don't use salt ? Older rust-free Av's here in CO go for $5-7k and are solid.

i.e. My 02 Av has 240k on it and still has the original stock muffler. No a bit of rust anywhere and working on it is a breeze. I shutter just thinking on working on rust-laden vehicles from when I lived in NY.
 
UPDATE: I looked at it again, the electrical issue was solved by a brand new battery so that's good.

Also while looking at it we noticed a fuel line leak under the rear seat area while the fuel line was pressurized. Sounds like things may be starting to go on it.

Here's what else it needs now or down the road.
- new windshield
- aforementioned fuel line repair
- some interior door lights
- glove box latch
- new side steps on both sides
- front passenger airbag sensor
 
kirkdc said:
Moving from Buffalo NY to Colorado (where they don't use salt on the streets) I'd never buy any vehicle that's been infected with road salts. I'm pretty spoiled here. It seems like a lot of money for an older AV exposed to NY road salts. Maybe do a CL search for states that don't use salt ? Older rust-free Av's here in CO go for $5-7k and are solid.

i.e. My 02 Av has 240k on it and still has the original stock muffler. No a bit of rust anywhere and working on it is a breeze. I shutter just thinking on working on rust-laden vehicles from when I lived in NY.
Click to expand...
I do have a lead on one from AZ but they're up charging a TON. I posted an update below with more I've found about this one
 
joendoodle said:
In comparison, Last October I bought an 04 Avalanche 1500 4X4 Z71, 180K miles, I got her quite cheap but in need of TLC... runs good, just like you describe, my hammer test on the frame is good, rust around the wheel wells and rockers, had a broken W/S,
all in all I
Had the W/S replaced for just under $300,
Installed power trailer towing mirrors cause I like 'em better $150,
New hinge pins for front doors $20 so they would close correctly.
Front window regulators $80. so the passenger window would work again, Drivers side still works, a good weather day and these parts can be installed.
Junk yard driver side door switch assembly $30,
Parts to fix tailgate latch <$20 (plus a day of my life),
<$50 for synth oil and all filters,
<$20 worth of junkyard plastic trim crap for the interior,
The spare tire rim was so rusted the rim proper was (is) an airleak, a junkyard replacement rim w/ a good tire was $40.
Replaced the non functional cigar lighter with a USB port so my wife can plug in her phone <$5.
With what I paid for her and parts I've bought so far: I've got about $1 k in her..+ registration fees. Note there are no $$$ allotted for my time/ labor. Even though I didn't put full coverage on her my insurance guy (makes a living by SEELING me insurance) suggested I do get full coverage, because he alleges it is worth $4K...

Granted there are still issues to address, the radio is intermittent (I believe the pins inside the radio are bad), The digital HVAC controls only have 1/2 of the lights working, the tachometer works about 50% of the time, but all the other gauges seem accurate. (inst panel rebuild is around $100 when I decide to send it out to be done). The drivers side floor pan has a rust hole, I covered the hole w/ plywood until winter is over and I can replace it. These are annoyances that I plan to address after the winter cold and the need for a 4X4 on the road is replaced by summer weather. The downside is, once I fix all that crap, my wife might want to drive the AV :D :D ...

Even though anything new is in the $50K range, and considering it is NY state, where everything costs more due to everyones tax burden: to ME $7K seems high, $5K or less seems fair, knowing it will take some time and dollars to bring it to where you want it. Take my $$$ / value opinion with a grain of salt, seems every used car nowadays costs significantly more than I think it should..
Click to expand...
yeah that sounds like the one I'm looking, pretty solid but things are starting to go and need replacing
 
kirkdc said:
Moving from Buffalo NY to Colorado (where they don't use salt on the streets) I'd never buy any vehicle that's been infected with road salts. I'm pretty spoiled here. It seems like a lot of money for an older AV exposed to NY road salts. Maybe do a CL search for states that don't use salt ? Older rust-free Av's here in CO go for $5-7k and are solid.

i.e. My 02 Av has 240k on it and still has the original stock muffler. No a bit of rust anywhere and working on it is a breeze. I shutter just thinking on working on rust-laden vehicles from when I lived in NY.
Click to expand...
Sadly I live in the mitten (Lower Peninsula) of Michigan, where salt is overused. The UP (Upper Peninsula) doesn't use salt, they use sand, once it snows, they plow down to about 3/4" and pack sand onto it.. Roads stay in better shape, cars don't rot, but you have to powerwash the engine compt each spring to remove all the sand.
 
Got my zero rust 2004 Z71 in Greeneville, SC. It spent all of its life in central Georgia according to Carfax. Drove it home to Northern Indiana several years ago. Do Krown rustproofing each year in Monroe, MI near Detroit. Always gets amazing comments by the person that does the rustproofing. Found it through CarGurus and paid serious $$$ for it. Why?? Indiana gives you no discount for rust on a truck.
 
In younger days (19 yrs old) I bought a 66 Chevelle from east coast Florida on a whim. Guy lived right off the beach. Got it home and gave it a good lookover. Rust everywhere!

Atlantic Ocean saltwater. ...lesson learned.
 
Rust is sometimes a big pain in the butt, I found naval jelly, or a non toxic rust desolving product both work well. Clean & wire brush best you can then paint if possible. I also found the same stuff used to waterproof underneath most vheicles is a wax spray you can buy & spray on yourself.
I plan on re spraying underneath my avalanche as cleaning grounding areas & other trouble spots I removed wax & paint from many areas.
Any older vheicle is going to have repairs & maintenance more than newer models.

I'll suggest checking condition of these areas I wish I checked b4 got mine.
If possible mirror, flashlight, & or bore camera would be awesome to check with.
* Exaust bolts far rear usually by frame breaking off into block. (Both sides mine were busted) purchased aftermarket bracket to hold where bolts broke big$ drilling out those broken bolts.
* rear main seal- inspect hole flywheel area for any oil.
Top of engine between intake manifold and block hard to see but look for oil leaking from AFM plate many were loose and leaking slowly over years some caused lifters fail & engine damage.
Front ball joints both sides,
Rubber condition on 4x4 axle grease joints, rubber on steering shaft knuckle.
 

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Rust Never Sleeps. It's like a damm' cancer too.

240k miles on my Av (here in Colorado) and I could easily take the stock exhaust manifold bolts off with ease. Brake rotors pop right off. In NY I had to heat-n-beat rotors off for hours and this was on 1-2 year old vehicles ! Try dropping a fuel tank in NY? NIGHTMARE!!!! Eat rust, poop gets in your teeth, ears, down your shirt.... nasty.
 
I keep wanting to salvage my 2002 AV 1500 but it has been sitting in my yard 2.5 years. The fuel pump failed at 199,750 and the shop would not quote a price to replace it, saying the rust was so bad they had no idea what they would be getting into. Very bad timing on the failure - I really wanted to see it roll over 200K. The shop also said most likely the fuel lines would be rusted out. The truck has rust issues, with the front ABS sensors being replaced 3x and once I paid attention, I saw the rocker panel in the passenger areas is rusted through... I need to figure out how judge if the frame is strong enough to play with, but the rust looks pretty bad. The thing is, every Avalanche I have looked at, even the 2013 they were asking $29K for is very rusted underneath. (One had paint slapped over the rust!) Right now, mine is sitting in my yard in case I get another and this becomes a parts donor... The engine was running strong, despite having a light knock when cold for the past 100,000 miles. I loved the rear seat pass through and general comfort. Sad. I think GM used poor steel for these. The aluminum truck bed on the new Fords is tempting me... but they come from the factory with rust on the pumpkin.
 
Last edited:
safieradam said:
I keep wanting to salvage my 2002 AV 1500 but it has been sitting in my yard 2.5 years. The fuel pump failed at 199,750 and the shop would not quote a price to replace it, saying the rust was so bad they had no idea what they would be getting into. Very bad timing on the failure - I really wanted to see it roll over 200K. The shop also said most likely the fuel lines would be rusted out. The truck has rust issues, with the front ABS sensors being replaced 3x and once I paid attention, I saw the rocker panel in the passenger areas is rusted through... I need to figure out how judge if the frame is strong enough to play with, but the rust looks pretty bad. The thing is, every Avalanche I have looked at, even the 2013 they were asking $29K for is very rusted underneath. (One had paint slapped over the rust!) Right now, mine is sitting in my yard in case I get another and this becomes a parts donor... The engine was running strong, despite having a light knock when cold for the past 100,000 miles. I loved the rear seat pass through and general comfort. Sad. I think GM used poor steel for these. The aluminum truck bed on the new Fords is tempting me... but they come from the factory with rust on the pumpkin.
Click to expand...
Just my opinion but I don't blame GM and thing they used bad steel, the rust issue is universal of all brands especially in the rust belt. The problem seems to be more about chemicals on the roads. Maybe some fault with manufactures using thinner metals to decrease weight to try and meet tougher gas mileage requirements too.
 
Unfortunately people don't wash the undercarriage of vheicles & car design dosnt help has so many areas to trap & hold crud, water, salt, etcetera.
I would like to start a business that cleans undercarriage only think many owners people just don't care if area not visible.
I like the wax spray idea undercarriage or larger splash shielding would also be preferable.
I did start cleaning under my truck as often as I'm able, making my own belly shields out of sheet meatal.
 

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With Chevrolet, the rust kicks off from the foam insulation/vibration dampening they use. These hold moisture. I’ve had every panel off my Av that I can remove without cutting. I’ve also have the quarter panels 1/2 way off. This foam is garbage. I’ve removed every piece of that crap I can find while cutting out the rust. Now the rockers don’t have this, so I’d blame it on poor undercoating treatment. Sure there are drain outlets built into the panels, but these clog and yadda yadda yadda. POR-15 is amazing, just be sure to do the prep work.
 
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