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Step By Step Oil Change Instructions

mrowe8

Full Member
Joined
Jun 5, 2002
Messages
155
I was hoping someone could post there step by step instructions for how they perform an Avalanche Oil Change. Maybe even with pictures. Just a way to see how folks do it.
 
My advice, put the drian pan back farther than you think, or you will have a big mess to clean :8:
 
i found that when i use the ramps the oil shoots way back when the plug is removed. i changed it oneday without jacking the truck up. the oil drained more down than out. in other words it went straight into the drain pan instead of firing out towards the back of the truck.
 
Well first you invite Edward K over for the weekend - then ;) Well OK so I just think I am funny and this post really doesnt help but if Eds e-mail didnt answer your questions then drop me a line and I can go through it again for ya. ;) Course knowing Ed he probably wrote it step by step and supplied 24 color glossy pictures with writing on the back of each one - - OK what movie is that from?
Funny huh! ;D
 
STEP 1. Drive to Oil Can Henry's

STEP 2. Tell them you want synthetic oil.

STEP 3. Laugh as they talk crazy to each other.

STEP 4. Pay and drive out. No Mess!

STEP 5. If you go down at all - Take back for a free top off!
 
Best thing I learned when changing the oil on the Av . .

Before removing the filter, punch a hole in the bottom with an awl and let it drain . . . if you don't, there's a WHOLE BUNCH of oil above the filter that WILL make a mess - likely down your arms, on the floor, on your skid plate, etc.

I usually pull the drain plug, punch the filter, let it all drain for 20 or so minutes, then the rest is a snap. Don't forget to pre-fill the new filter before installing - oil pressure much quicker!

Good luck.
 
For those that did the first oil change yourself; How tight was the filter? Could you get it off or did they have a 200 ft lb of torque applied at the factory?

 
BIGG_LEE said:
STEP 1. Drive to Oil Can Henry's

STEP 2. Tell them you want synthetic oil.

STEP 3. Laugh as they talk crazy to each other.

STEP 4. Pay and drive out. No Mess!

STEP 5. If you go down at all - Take back for a free top off!

Hey Bigg Lee, that's my answer too. Step One is different but the rest is the same. ;)
 
1. Get a 6 quart or preferrable larger oil drain pan from the local parts store.
2. Get a sales representative at that store to look in their computer for an oil filter to fit your truck.
3. Using the oil filter he/she produces, find an oil filter tool that will fit the filter you have in hand. (probably 15 flutes) meaning number of edges all the way around the filter end,
4. Once you've found the tool that fits the filter in your hand, ask to carry it outside to make darn sure it will fit the filter on your truck.
5. Buy whatever oil you want to put back in, 6.5 quarts with a filter change on 5.3 L
6. Find some spare time and a curb or ditch to do this in.
7. Find a socket that will fit the oil pan screw, probably that darn metric stuff, and ratchet 3/8 inch with short extension to use with the new oil filter tool you just bought.
8. Having your drain pan ready loosen the oil pan screw with the ratchet until loose, then hold the drain pan up and quickly unscrew it the rest of the way until it falls onto the screen in the oil drain pan. The oil shoots further out than you think it will so be careful.
9. Loosen the oil filter to hand loose with the oil filter tool and then take a two liter coke bottle cut to the length of the filter and finish unscrewing the filter letting it drop into the coke bottle (no mess)
10. After you're satisfied that the oil has finished draining, put the oil pan screw back in and tighten with the socket, you don't have to put all your strength and might into it, just reasonably tight is enough
11. Using the oil you bought, oil the new seal on top of the new oil filter and screw the new filter on and tighten to just good and snug with the oil filter tool.
12. Get out from under your truck
13. Pour in 6.5 quarts of your favorite oil into the oil fill hole under the hood.
14. Crank up the engine and hold your breath until the oil pressure guage starts to read.
15. Drive the truck to its sleeping place in the garage
16. Check the oil level one more time and add as necessary.
17. Check the oil level the next morning just to make sure
18. Reset the oil life computer in the Driver Information Center.
 
cwharper said:
1. Get a 6 quart or preferrable larger oil drain pan from the local parts store.
2. Get a sales representative at that store to look in their computer for an oil filter to fit your truck.
3. Using the oil filter he/she produces, find an oil filter tool that will fit the filter you have in hand. (probably 15 flutes) meaning number of edges all the way around the filter end,
4. Once you've found the tool that fits the filter in your hand, ask to carry it outside to make darn sure it will fit the filter on your truck.
5. Buy whatever oil you want to put back in, 6.5 quarts with a filter change on 5.3 L
6. Find some spare time and a curb or ditch to do this in.
7. Find a socket that will fit the oil pan screw, probably that darn metric stuff, and ratchet 3/8 inch with short extension to use with the new oil filter tool you just bought.
8. Having your drain pan ready loosen the oil pan screw with the ratchet until loose, then hold the drain pan up and quickly unscrew it the rest of the way until it falls onto the screen in the oil drain pan. The oil shoots further out than you think it will so be careful.
9. Loosen the oil filter to hand loose with the oil filter tool and then take a two liter coke bottle cut to the length of the filter and finish unscrewing the filter letting it drop into the coke bottle (no mess)
10. After you're satisfied that the oil has finished draining, put the oil pan screw back in and tighten with the socket, you don't have to put all your strength and might into it, just reasonably tight is enough
11. Using the oil you bought, oil the new seal on top of the new oil filter and screw the new filter on and tighten to just good and snug with the oil filter tool.
12. Get out from under your truck
13. Pour in 6.5 quarts of your favorite oil into the oil fill hole under the hood.
14. Crank up the engine and hold your breath until the oil pressure guage starts to read.
15. Drive the truck to its sleeping place in the garage
16. Check the oil level one more time and add as necessary.
17. Check the oil level the next morning just to make sure
18. Reset the oil life computer in the Driver Information Center.

That pretty much sums it up. But I'd like to add a few notes considering I just did this last night.

  • Use only 6 quarts of oil.
    The manual says 6 quarts, and that is what I put in (with an oil filter change) and the oil goes to exactly the top of the crosshatch. Do not overfill.
  • Use a 15mm socket on the drain plug
    Six point is best.
  • Punch a small hole in the oil filter
    to drain most of the oil out of the filter before unscrewing as someone else suggested a couple of posts ago. I did this and it helped a lot.

    AVPokeHoleInOilFilter.sized.jpg


  • Seriously consider getting an oil filter wrench
    Well worth the $3 I paid at walmart for it.

    AVOilFilterWrench.sized.jpg

  • Consider using only AC Delco filters
    I got mine from one of our dealer sponsors for 3.84 a filter. Cheaper than fram and better from what I hear. Plus you'll get less warranty headache claims.
  • Stuff a rag between the skid plate and engine
    If you have a Z71. It keeps the oil from spilling onto the skidd plate making a mess.

Last night had to be the easiest (and cleanest) oil change I've ever done on *any* vehicle. Hell, being able to crawl underneath the truck without jacking it up was awesome. Not something I can due too often.

-Ed
 
A great trick I learned when removing the oil filter is to reak the seal and then wrap it in a very small baby diaper for the final few turns to remove it. The diaper will catch the oil and doesn't leak oil everywhere.

They can also be used as oil pads for drips during the change.
 
Anyone else out there have an 00' Silverado 4x4 with the 5.3, where when you remove the drain plug, half the oil hits the front skid plate, resuling in oil going EVERYWHERE (*&^%$#!)?

I love on my 8.1 how the front driveline is directly beneath the engine oil filter. I think I 'll try the hole punching trick next time, as my elaborate aluminum foil shield wasn't particularly sucessful.
 
And, don't forget to check that the OLD oil filter gasket did not remain on the truck. Otherwise you'll have fresh oil everywhere when you screw on the new filter and 'er fill up.
 
all good advice. Since I have been doing all my own stuff on my and my family's vehicles for 25 years now, let me add a few things:

If you plan on being under your Av or other cars, do yourself a one-time favor and buy some heavy-duty ramps from Sears, etc. Next to my daily-use socket wrenches and screw drivers, easily the most used item in my garage over the years. (I have these two-part ramps from Sears where the little ramp plugs into the stand, the stand also makes a great little stand for me when getting a better angle under the hood is required).

As for the Silverado person, and any auto owner that wants a real easy way to drain oil (and not have to worry about goofing the threads on the drain plug when doing oil changes every 3K miles over the course of a 150K lifespan) get a Fram sure drain or a Fumoto Valve (I have the latter - http://www.fumotovalve.com/ ) and you can even put some high temp hose on the end and direct it straight into the oil catch pan, weight the end of the hose with a large nut. Change the oil on a windy day and you'll understand the wisdom of this.

yes, there will definitely come a time where an oil filter cannot be removed by hand, plus if you change it when hot, that sucker is hot. Do yourself a favor and spend all of $5 or so on the oil filter wrench pictured above, the kind that fits into the indentations on thte top of all filters. I have one for each of my vehicles (motorcycle, Miata and Av have diff sizes).

yes to punching a hole in the bottom of the oil filter, any phillips head will do. Might not be able to do this at the same time as the main drain is open, depends on the size of your catch pan.

one more thing - not mentioned above, but take the oil filler cap off first before draing the oil, flows much faster.
 
pedr0 said:
And, don't forget to check that the OLD oil filter gasket did not remain on the truck. Otherwise you'll have fresh oil everywhere when you screw on the new filter and 'er fill up.

oh so you were there when I made that mistake once? Good point, trust me it does happen :rolleyes:
 
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