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Tell me you Avalanche quirks, I'll start

Weird noises coming from behind dash (dings, bells and chimes), even with battery disconnected (UH???).
Crappy, cheap, plastic tailgate lock rod supports that crumble apart in the hands... My solution? 2500lb Linear Actuators, and a Lock/Latch Delete!
Weak, slow front door window motors (gonna install new ones in front)
Random guage/radio blackouts (as if a bad central ground) while truck is moving that can't be replicated when stationary and yanking on ground wires (doesn't turn truck off, and comes back randomly).
OEM Bouncy/Soft suspension from Suburban, even though the daggone truck is a Silverado at heart. Spring Lifts (REAR) and new torsion keys (FRONT, +1.5" REAR, +2.5" FRONT) helped, but my final solution? BILSTEINs!!
HORRIBLE RAIN CHANNELS... you just have to use a blower and vacuum regularly to keep clean. I actually gave in and bought a cover for the daggone Monster, but at 52yrs old w/ back issues, climbing on top of it to put cover on is a nightmare!
 
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2005 drivers side low beam works when it wants to. High beam works normal. I can begin to remove housing and it will start working just from moving it around. I have smacked it with my hand without taking it out and it comes on. In a couple of days it refuses to come back on. Rinse and repeat. All the head light to bulb connections look burnt in places so I’m wondering if this is a common problem? I gave up on the drl’s so when they burnt out for the umpteenth time I stopped replacing them. Could I have a bad low beam bulb connector?
Maybe that is what happened to my original lights... burnt out DRLs... Hmmm... I replaced entire front lighting assemblies with aftermarket projector beam headlamps w/LED DRLs, LED Hi/Low bulbs, and LED Turn/Park lamps.
 
fyi avy is made on Suburban frame and has more common with burb than silverado
 
fyi avy is made on Suburban frame and has more common with burb than silverado
I know... Ain't it a shame? LOL!!
Took a lot of self/mental adjusting, and the suspension lift/new wheels if I'm being honest... and that 4500 miles through the mid-west with the 30' RV, for me to be cool with the ride. Still getting used to it. I fell in love with the stiff, IN-YOUR-FACE, ride the Bilsteins and frame stiffening gave the ZR2 over a regular Blazer, so I'm still adjusting. I figure by the summer, when I put on the new Bilsteins, I'll be loving her. I've never been a fan of "floaty" vehicles. I like to "KNOW" the body is going to stay over the wheels. It really is a "me" problem; nothing wrong with the truck (as far as the suspension goes).
 
Please do not apply the heat gun myth to your cladding.

There are many, many better ways to restore your cladding that do not end up destroying the plastic material.

It may also be important to note that the cladding on the 2002 model trucks ALL came FROM THE FACTORY with a lighter grey color than any of the later model trucks.

That light grey color is unique to the 2002 model year.

If you use the heat gun to restore your plastic, that process will destroy the plastics and make them brittle and splotchy.

At that point, your only option will be to either replace the cladding, which is damn near impossible to locate especially in the rare 2002 light grey color, or to have your ruined cladding painted.

Like I said, there are better methods available and those methods are discussed at length in this forum.
I just used Ceracote trim coating and it looks marvelous . There're 2 places on front bumper that are white splotches. I assume previous owner tried using heat gun and failed to do what Ceracoat and other like products do. Thanks for keeping me from trying the heat gun
 
212k on mine.
I fix most things when the come up.
1 annoying issue is the shift clunk I get as I am slowing then give it gas as it downshift, been doing it for 10 years. No harm.
Also an annoying leak in my front passenger side front axel at the front diff.
 
My 03 AC/Heat display is so dim I can't read it, especially in bright sunlight. Is there any way to brighten it up?
 
About once a month I'll start the truck and it will die when I move the gear selector, and I get the message 'Service Theft Deterrent System'.. Turning the key again starts the truck immediately without further issue. Guessing issues with the ignition switch but it hasn't bothered me enough to diagnose further yet.. I should probably do that before it leaves me stranded..
Yeah those are tricky
 
Gear indicator lights were off and on, had them replaced
Some dash lights off and on -had all motors in dash replaced and RGB LEDs installed plus trans temp
Random service charging system warning - ignore it - might need an alternator with more balls
Front bumper was rooted out inside but was replacing with winch bumper when I found it (Silverado bumpers work front and back - non-clad)
Headlights were useless - replaced with LEDs
 
The adjustment buttons on the driver's seat are backwards. The forward button makes the seat move backward...and the seat heaters are flip flopped.
 
245k on my 02 Z71 (with brand spanking rebuilt/upgraded trans)


Some dashlights are out.
Rear drivers side window motor is slow as molasses.
Lots of warning lights on (ABS, e-brake, service engine, etc)..although it runs just fine. Meh.
Upper bed cladding faded. (need to paint it)
E-break is in-op, everything rotted off including those damn factory backing plates.
Brakes are spongey ( all new brakes calipers, etc) Probably needing a master.
Front headlight lenses are fogged up bad, can't barely see at night even with highbeams on.
Lots of rattles on rough roads. Meh.
Smells like pipe tobacco. Good for me, :)

It's shame they didn't make the AV's with an optional manual 5 speed.
My Avalanche was purchased when it was 1 year old. It’s a 2011. Now close to 90k miles runs great. I recently moved to Florida from Alaska. I have dealt with a musty smell. I suspect debris in the area near the ac condenser. It sucks it doesn’t have a cabin air filter. I’ll be installing the retrofit kit and hope to clean out what I can reach in there. Otherwise I love my Avalanche.
 
Sometimes when I go to adjust my side mirrors (which don't always work at all), they fold up. I think my contacts, switches need cleaning, replacing. My wind deflector does not fold back down to allow my sunroof to close all the way. I have to stop it just before, put my finger on the deflector and press it down a little, then at the same time, close the sunroff the rest of the way. Im sure theres a broken bit on the deflector, or track. I just dont use it that much to fix it.
 
'02 2500 w/80,xxx miles.

The lumbar support in my leather seat doesn't work but the side bolsters will move to crush my sides. It feels like I'm sitting with a barrel for a seat back. Any suggestions on a fix?
 
PRNDL light is out- seems to be a common problem, both the knobs- left and right side for the heat temperature are whacky.. I turn them and it just kind of does what it wants as far as changing the temperature.. I just sort of spin them and hope it changes to a temperature I want. No AC so im thinking when i fix that ill invest in a new temp control unit thing
 
PRNDL light is out- seems to be a common problem, both the knobs- left and right side for the heat temperature are whacky.. I turn them and it just kind of does what it wants as far as changing the temperature.. I just sort of spin them and hope it changes to a temperature I want. No AC so im thinking when i fix that ill invest in a new temp control unit thing

Both issues you mentioned are common and fixable.

The display on the cluster is a common problem with poor solder joints on the cluster circuit board.

There was a factory recall for defective clusters way back in the day, but that recall is not longer enforced, so you are on your own for the repair.

If you are handy with a soldering iron, you can find one of the many Youtube videos online and make the repair yourself.

Or, you can send the cluster in and have it repaired and/or upgraded from any of the online repair vendors.

One such vendor would be Dr. Speedometer.

The fix for the dual temperature knob controls is much simpler and cheaper.

Grab yourself a can of CRC 05103 QD Electronic Cleaner.

Pull each of the temp knobs straight off of their shafts.

Spray the contact cleaner down each shaft while turning the shaft back and forth.

I did this with the A/C turned on.

When the temp readings show better alignment with the shaft turns, reinstall the knobs until next time.

Done.
 
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