Tell me you Avalanche quirks, I'll start

[2003VAAV]

2005 drivers side low beam works when it wants to. High beam works normal. I can begin to remove housing and it will start working just from moving it around. I have smacked it with my hand without taking it out and it comes on. In a couple of days it refuses to come back on. Rinse and repeat. All the head light to bulb connections look burnt in places so I’m wondering if this is a common problem? I gave up on the drl’s so when they burnt out for the umpteenth time I stopped replacing them. Could I have a bad low beam bulb connector?

Yes, either bulb, connector or both. Try swapping bulbs (D & P) and have a close look at the connector when you do, clean it up, put a little dielectric grease before connecting and see if the problem is resolved and/or now on the passenger side only/as well.

 

[gfh77665]

Driving along with fan on fresh outside air or A/C. Temp controls set at full cool. Suddenly scorching hot air blows out of the vents, like I had put on full heat. I shut truck off, wait 30 seconds, restart, and air is back to cool or cold. Or, A/C will spontaneously blow hot air on drivers side while passenger side is icy cold. This happens often. Mechanic told me the cold - hot slider electronic controls are working correctly. Any ideas?

 

[EXT4ME]

Driving along with fan on fresh outside air or A/C. Temp controls set at full cool. Suddenly scorching hot air blows out of the vents, like I had put on full heat. I shut truck off, wait 30 seconds, restart, and air is back to cool or cold. Or, A/C will spontaneously blow hot air on drivers side while passenger side is icy cold. This happens often. Mechanic told me the cold - hot slider electronic controls are working correctly. Any ideas?

The all too common blend door actuator.

Either it has gotten out of sync with the computer or it is beginning to fail.

 

[BainMan]

Driving along with fan on fresh outside air or A/C. Temp controls set at full cool. Suddenly scorching hot air blows out of the vents, like I had put on full heat. I shut truck off, wait 30 seconds, restart, and air is back to cool or cold. Or, A/C will spontaneously blow hot air on drivers side while passenger side is icy cold. This happens often. Mechanic told me the cold - hot slider electronic controls are working correctly. Any ideas?

Sounds like a faulty actuator. There are several actuators that control the heat/air, and which registers the air comes out of.

2004 CHEVROLET AVALANCHE 1500 5.3L V8 Heater Air Door Actuator | RockAuto

RockAuto ships auto parts and body parts from over 300 manufacturers to customers' doors worldwide, all at warehouse prices. Easy to use parts catalog.

www.rockauto.com

 

[AvPilot321]

Driving along with fan on fresh outside air or A/C. Temp controls set at full cool. Suddenly scorching hot air blows out of the vents, like I had put on full heat. I shut truck off, wait 30 seconds, restart, and air is back to cool or cold. Or, A/C will spontaneously blow hot air on drivers side while passenger side is icy cold. This happens often. Mechanic told me the cold - hot slider electronic controls are working correctly. Any ideas?

Mine just started doing this yesterday. Driver side blows full cold and passenger side blows full hot. Passenger side air controls have no effect on temp.

 

[gfh77665]

Its odd how shutting the truck off then restarting resets it. What would a mechanic typically charge to replace both?

 

[EXT4ME]

Its odd how shutting the truck off then restarting resets it. What would a mechanic typically charge to replace both?

Both of my trucks have done this at one time or another.

For me, I found the best way to "resync" the blend door actuator is to start the engine, then turn everything about the HVAC system to OFF.

Next, shut off the engine and disconnect the battery for a few minutes.

Reconnect the battery and start the engine.

Cycle the HVAC system slowly through every possible setting.

That has always done the trick for me.

Another important tip is to always try to turn everything on the HVAC system to OFF before disconnecting the battery for any reason.

This may not always be possible, but it appears that if the truck loses power, then the blend door actuators can sometimes get out of sync with the computer.

As an aside, whenever you disconnect the power and you have a sun roof, you sometimes have to run the sunroof to all extremes in order to resync it's positions with the computer.

You just got to love these computer controlled trucks.

 

[Prince Of The Timelords]

Forgot about this thread. I should add the quirk that happened to me earlier this year. The previous owner of my truck got an improperly (or at least, seems to me to be improperly) installed remote start. Never worked since I got the vehicle. Well, in May, while driving home one time, a wire on the remote start system shorted out and blew the main ignition fuse. So got the remote start system disabled. Then a couple weeks ago, it killed the truck while I was at college but luckily after the box fell down, it worked long enough for me to drive home. So I had the whole remote start system ripped out. After I got that done, it died on me the first day of getting it back but I have a feeling it just had to "relearn" the key without the remote start being in the way. After that one time, its been running fine for me.


TL,DR: Make sure you get your aftermarket remote starts installed properly or it may kill your trucks and blow the main ignition fuse.

 

[Wpolonavyguy]

Bright high beams come on when using right turn signal, radio is dead for first 5 min in hot weather, first 10-15 min in cool weather. Right rear side compartment lids swings open at highway speeds, even if securely locked, Instrument cluster give false "brake booster" message every start up, right rear window does not work, tailgate will sometimes lock with keys, sometimes not. A/C will spontaneously blow hot air on drivers side while passenger side is icy cold.

My truck is possessed. If anyone has ideas/solutions for the radio or AC - PLEASE let me know, thanks., I can live with the rest of the issues.

Sounds like loose connection somewhere in dash drivers side. I've seen stickey liquid spills cause shorts in different temperature settings, temperature can expand & contract material allowing connection temporarily/intermittently.
Rear window likely motor, check drivers control switch & door switch not likely both switches bad same time.
My drivers side a/C does same thing, the door control solenoid is at passenger left foot underneath dash. I bought new one but while waiting for delivery opened old one cleaned electrical contacts inside & removed excess grease on gears. It's working great again hasn't messed up since/ still have new waiting if fix dosnt hold.
Research grounding points check for corrosion & good meatal to meatal connection.
If not grounding I'd guess loose connection drivers side dash

 

[Oberloh]

2003 had 99k miles when I got her 3 years ago, now 154k.
First dash would completely go dead when driving but everything else good....it fixed it self.
Second ever consistent engine light for fuel codes, all benn run through and fixed, still lights everyone and then so I guess she is super picky on fuel.
Key f.o.b. don't work and the passenger door says it's locked when not and unlocked when locked.
Seems windows would freeze up on middle of July.
I love my truck even with it Chev issues

Wow. Sorry to hear about all the pain in the arse issues. I’ve had my ‘03 15oo since new and have 220k+ Hard miles on it.

I continually have trouble with the drivers door rods and the clips that hold them to the ley lock and door lock mechanisms. The plastic connect pieces don’t last long at all. About 150k miles I send my dash I’m for a full rebuild with new gauges d bibs and have been happy with it since.

I recently did have the dash go dead as you did, but I couldn’t find any blown fuses. A day later, as yours also did, it fixed itself.

I caught some jerk-offs stealing my truck in ‘o8 with a stupid electronic scanner of sorts that plays a zillion random codes and the car that lights up is the winner! I totally disabled the ability to use the key fob and don’t mind manually unlocking my door from the outside.

Best of luck with your in the future. I plan on keeping mine for another 20 years.

 

[Oberloh]

Wow. Sorry to hear about all the pain in the arse issues. I’ve had my ‘03 15oo since new and have 220k+ Hard miles on it.

I continually have trouble with the drivers door rods and the clips that hold them to the handle lock and door lock mechanisms. The plastic connector pieces don’t last long at all. About 150k miles I sentence my dash I’m for a full rebuild with new gauges and bulbs and have been happy with it since.

I recently did have the dash go dead as you did, but I couldn’t find any blown fuses. A day later, as yours also did, it fixed itself.

I caught some jerk-offs stealing my truck in ‘o8 with a stupid electronic scanner of sorts that plays a zillion random codes and the car that lights up is the winner! After that I totally disabled the ability to use the key fob and don’t mind manually unlocking my door from the outside. By the way, even though I had them tied up and sitting next to my truck, when the LEOs finally got there, they could only charge them with entering a vehicle, like trespassing, because they didn’t actually finish stealing it. Go figure!

Best of luck with your in the future. I plan on keeping mine for another 20 years.

 

[Wpolonavyguy]

Wow. Sorry to hear about all the pain in the arse issues. I’ve had my ‘03 15oo since new and have 220k+ Hard miles on it.

I continually have trouble with the drivers door rods and the clips that hold them to the ley lock and door lock mechanisms. The plastic connect pieces don’t last long at all. About 150k miles I send my dash I’m for a full rebuild with new gauges d bibs and have been happy with it since.

I recently did have the dash go dead as you did, but I couldn’t find any blown fuses. A day later, as yours also did, it fixed itself.

I caught some jerk-offs stealing my truck in ‘o8 with a stupid electronic scanner of sorts that plays a zillion random codes and the car that lights up is the winner! I totally disabled the ability to use the key fob and don’t mind manually unlocking my door from the outside.

Best of luck with your in the future. I plan on keeping mine for another 20 years.

I hope theif was arrested, persons I caught messing with my Avalanche sent surveillance video to PD but they were never caught. Police can't do much with video evidence faces apparently unless license plate # or names they can't locate person. It can be evidence if they get arrested then tape can help if anyone connects face.
Mine the person tried prying drivers handle away from sheet meatal, to try tool or hook lock rod. I'd think better luck or easier if they used window slide area?
Happened twice second time finger prints & hand prints left all over rear window driving side. Sent pictures of very visible prints to PD also with no luck getting person caught.
Fixing handle I added sheet meatal inside help block access to inner lock rods.
May or may not work will see, added motion sensors from harbor freight to front yard both sides driveway towards home. So passing cars don't trip motion Beeping/ installed noise speakers in garage. Had one inside to wake me try catching in act trespassing but I got annoyed by cats too often . Put all speakers in garage.
Noise in garage & in ability to move in driveway or yard quietly has kept away any further tampering or attempts.
I added x2 visible cameras pointing both directions also to detur persons on my street lamp. In hope of recording license plate & or better vheicle description of trespassing individuals.

 

[Oberloh]

It would take a little bit of work but would be great to run wires from your battery(or hot wire in dash) to a switch in your cab, then to the lock rods in your front doors. Flip it on before you exit or better yet, coordinate it it with you key fob.

I would think that a peep would use metal tools suck as a needle nose and screw driver.

It’s so easy to break into any car/truck that a series of kill switches /and or battery isolators seem to be needed.
I used to have to remove my distributor rotor (and take it with me) in my 87 convertible mustang cobra. Was a bit of a pain in the arse when just running to the store, but I never had it stolen.

 

[Oberloh]

I cannot describe the mechanism, but if you remove the tailgate handle, it is pretty obvious / simple how the lock works, you may just see that all is needed is a slight bend / tweak.

Recently my tailgate lock came open and I lost a large top box and spare time on the freeway.’ I installed these latches between the factory grab handles and the tonneau cover, and can use padlocks on them.. they barely show when being used.

Anyone want more details I’m happy to send or post, they Amazon links and instructions of what I did. I could not come up with any totally internal latching/ locking designs, but I am totally stoked about how firm and secure it is now

 

[Oberloh]

2003 had 99k miles when I got her 3 years ago, now 154k.
First dash would completely go dead when driving but everything else good....it fixed it self.
Second ever consistent engine light for fuel codes, all benn run through and fixed, still lights everyone and then so I guess she is super picky on fuel.
Key f.o.b. don't work and the passenger door says it's locked when not and unlocked when locked.
Seems windows would freeze up on middle of July.
I love my truck even with it Chev issues

I too have problems with my drivers door lock, it’s my linkage bars though. Even new ones haven’t helped all that much. The lock works manually inside and out but no Joe fob works. No big deal, I don’t when auto lamps flash when using key fobs.

I bought my 03 new in Northern Indiana and never had a vehicle work better in the snow. Even with only the G-80 in the rear and not locker available for the front, I was never stuck in the snow. Actually I pulled out trucks, a school bus, even LEOs SUV’s.

 

[joendoodle]

Necessity is the mother of invention

 

[Oberloh]

100% agree

Absolutely and a better frame and heavy duty options for the 1500

 

[Oberloh]

245k on my 02 Z71 (with brand spanking rebuilt/upgraded trans)


Some dashlights are out.
Rear drivers side window motor is slow as molasses.
Lots of warning lights on (ABS, e-brake, service engine, etc)..although it runs just fine. Meh.
Upper bed cladding faded. (need to paint it)
E-break is in-op, everything rotted off including those damn factory backing plates.
Brakes are spongey ( all new brakes calipers, etc) Probably needing a master.
Front headlight lenses are fogged up bad, can't barely see at night even with highbeams on.
Lots of rattles on rough roads. Meh.
Smells like pipe tobacco. Good for me,

It's shame they didn't make the AV's with an optional manual 5 speed.

Hey Kirkdc, it seems that I have, or had, quite a few of the same problems as you have. I charged the in cleanable foggy lights and they fogged up too. I did find a solution that fixes them perfectly but only for about a year in Ca Sun. I’ll post the name when I get out to my garage.

My e-brake backing plates rusted out in 5-6 years but that was spent in Northern Indiana with no garage. I have never put the new shoes and plates in though. Just to lazy I guess.

My brakes have been spongy since I bought this 03 new in 04. I have tried everything but the master cylinder and the booster?
C which both meet all the factory specs as far as movement when it starts up etc. I replaced rotors with aftermarket drilled & slotted, ceramic pads, new brakes lines. It is still spongy, I can lock them up at will though still (so much for anti-lock brakes).

I’ve found that if I remove the window motors and clean them well and degrease them. As well as a light hand sanding and silicone spray on the glass track mechanism they go back to fast up/down

Every 6 months I spray my cladding, sail wings, and bed cover with McGuires tire shine, won scrubbing. Wipe off the excess and looks brand new for 5-1/2 months or so.

My reverse lights, which are wired to one of the horns always blows the fuse and has since new. I got tired of taking it into shop only to get excuses and no fix. I hooked up a new in line fuse and manual switch to the back up lights.

220k miles and the motor still fires up every morning with no smoke yet.

Don

https://www.chevyavalanchefanclub.com/cafcna/index.php?forums/cafcna-news.

 

[Oberloh]

100% agree

I also agree. 2500 or even 3500 but with the 6.0 but pump it up to at least 400 hp. (dare I say diesel?) instead of the gas sucking 8.1. Build it with 10-1/4 In the rear and Dana 60 front, both full floating and with real lockers. 5-6 speed and manual with a granny low for real crawling.

Hmmmm! Yeah, a 60-40 split midgate to work with the seats. (Looks like the $90k electric Silverado/Avalanche has the split midgate coming).

 

[ruckus520]

I would think that since the high beam/flash and turn signal are activated using the same control that would be a good place to start. Maybe the contacts are bad or corroded, or some wires are worn/touching, etc.

I would also check the Inline Connector (6) (see image below) just to be sure it has clean terminals and it is connected properly.

View attachment 234654

FIGURE Headamp/DRL Controls(c)​

View attachment 234653

I had the same issue, It's the turn signal/highbeam switch

 

[joendoodle]

I’ve found that if I remove the window motors and clean them well and degrease them. As well as a light hand sanding and silicone spray on the glass track mechanism they go back to fast up/down

https://www.chevyavalanchefanclub.com/cafcna/index.php?forums/cafcna-news.

I like this idea, may have to give it a try.

 

[nokaoiken]

2002 2500 Avy purchased 1-22 195K miles.
1. Replaced foggy looking lights with new ones and they look like new
2. Front end seems to shake pretty hard when I hit a pothole, perhaps balljoints need replaced? My last truck was 04 RAM 2500 so I am used to 3/4 tons
3. Water logged carpet in back seat. Rains a lot here in WA winter months. I cleaned out bed, bed drains, wheel well drains and side drains. There were leaves and such stuffed in there and drains were clogged. Also, the spring loaded filter thing that keeps stuff away from the midgate was missing. Found one at local auto wrecking yard. So far no more water in back seat
4. Gray cladding faded. I saw a video of someone using a heat gun cautiously to restore original color. I plan on trying this soon.
5. Overhead cloth head liner wrinkled and falling down. Seems to be common problem. My 04 2500 Avy has similar situation
6. I kind of wish I had a canopy so I had a little more room available in bed. I went to RC swap meet last month and could not get another thing in truck with midgate open. The last plane I put in bed was upside down to clear the rudder when I reinstalled bed panels.

 

[EXT4ME]

4. Gray cladding faded. I saw a video of someone using a heat gun cautiously to restore original color. I plan on trying this soon.

Please do not apply the heat gun myth to your cladding.

There are many, many better ways to restore your cladding that do not end up destroying the plastic material.

It may also be important to note that the cladding on the 2002 model trucks ALL came FROM THE FACTORY with a lighter grey color than any of the later model trucks.

That light grey color is unique to the 2002 model year.

If you use the heat gun to restore your plastic, that process will destroy the plastics and make them brittle and splotchy.

At that point, your only option will be to either replace the cladding, which is damn near impossible to locate especially in the rare 2002 light grey color, or to have your ruined cladding painted.

Like I said, there are better methods available and those methods are discussed at length in this forum.

 

[nokaoiken]

Please do not apply the heat gun myth to your cladding.

There are many, many better ways to restore your cladding that do not end up destroying the plastic material.

It may also be important to note that the cladding on the 2002 model trucks ALL came FROM THE FACTORY with a lighter grey color than any of the later model trucks.

That light grey color is unique to the 2002 model year.

If you use the heat gun to restore your plastic, that process will destroy the plastics and make them brittle and splotchy.

At that point, your only option will be to either replace the cladding, which is damn near impossible to locate especially in the rare 2002 light grey color, or to have your ruined cladding painted.

Like I said, there are better methods available and those methods are discussed at length in this forum. Thanks for your help, K

 

[ClintieBraidz91]

245k on my 02 Z71 (with brand spanking rebuilt/upgraded trans)


Some dashlights are out.
Rear drivers side window motor is slow as molasses.
Lots of warning lights on (ABS, e-brake, service engine, etc)..although it runs just fine. Meh.
Upper bed cladding faded. (need to paint it)
E-break is in-op, everything rotted off including those damn factory backing plates.
Brakes are spongey ( all new brakes calipers, etc) Probably needing a master.
Front headlight lenses are fogged up bad, can't barely see at night even with highbeams on.
Lots of rattles on rough roads. Meh.
Smells like pipe tobacco. Good for me,

It's shame they didn't make the AV's with an optional manual 5 speed.