Thoughts on PCV modification. & my 07 still some small problem i can't locate.

[Wpolonavyguy]

So my 07 LT 5.3l 4x4 flex fuel has been constantly worked on trying to flush out gremlins.
New parts: all transmission solenoids & pressure switch, thor torque converter from monster transmission, fuel pump, fuel rail pressure sensor, throttle body, electric gas pedal, break switch, mass airflow sensor, map sensor, cam sensor, crankshaft position sensor, all new fuel injectors, oil pressure sensor, oil screen, air temperature sensors, coolant temperature sensor, starter, plugs & wires, evap perge valve. Dash display had a lil soldier piece I self fixed aswell.
More probably I've done but that's what remember easily.
I cleaned engine when removed intake manifold, tightened bolts to cylinder deactivation plate most were loose.
I believe I may need to buy manifold gasket & try resealing as air leak only thing I can think of causing gremlin I'm seeing.
Intermittent Ritch bank 1&2 code, traction control kicks itself off & shifts hard during hiccup. If I use button to keep traction control off it dosnt happen? And truck shifts normal when used button to shut off traction control.
3 parts I'm debating rear wheels speed sensors havnt been replaced & possibility traction control getting odd readings those rear sensors. The intake manifold seal could have air leak but no trouble code indicates leak.
Any imput welcome borrowed a scan tool from brother inlaw to view live data, hoping can see wheel speed sensors if all in sync I can hopefully rule out rear wheel speed sensors.
I have a extra map sensor I can try switching out see if any changes aswell?
I had hoped if intake seal was leaking code would indicate b4 Ritch mixture both banks.

My other thought was running rigid tube from pcv ports both to passenger side intake hole, plug the hi vacuum side on top intake?
I have catch cans both sides pcv, passenger side almost 90% less oil caught. Hoped less vacuum pressure pull less oil from valve cover if T joined both pcv hosed b4 throttle body?
I may test out after I get gremlin issue fixed changing manifold gasket fairly big job.

 

[Wpolonavyguy]

I do know there is a slight leak of oil from oil pan, don't want remove 4x4 axle & all the parts to replace pan gasket again.
Mine has never gotten good seal even trying goo both sides last time I tried.
I am curious now if air getting in through oil pan seal & pcv hose to intake manifold could allow map sensor # to change or be off?
Such a slight change but enough to shut off traction control & sometimes rich condition code.
Going to drive a bit with live data see if can notice anything on meter

 

[EXT4ME]

Perhaps a smoke test would help locate your possible vacuum leak.

Late last year, we had a rare extremely cold snap with sub-zero wind chills.

My Avalanche was not happy before warming up while the ambient outside air temps were near zero.

The misfire error codes I got seem to indicate a vacuum leak somewhere on the intake.

Once the engine warmed up, all was fine.

And since that time, I have not had any error codes.

All I can figure is the extreme cold (for us) was allowing the old OEM original intake gaskets to let some air leak in while the engine was way cold, but once the engine warmed up, the air leaks either disappeared or are too small to matter.

During the time this was going on, I decided I would invest in a smoke machine so I could do some testing before taking the intake off to install new Fel-Pro intake gaskets.

I figured why not, because, well ....... tools.

As luck would have it, since the weather has returned to more normal, the problem has not returned and I have not busted out my new smoke machine to perform any tests.

Wouldn't be the first time a project got moved to the back burner around here.

Anyway, I bought the MR CARTOOL T100 Automotive EVAP Smoke Machine Leak Detector along with the TYRAREX Automotive Smoke Machine EVAP Adapter Universal Intake Adapter to perform my vacuum leak test.

I'm thinking that unless the misfire errors return, I will probably wait until sometime this spring before I break out these new tools and see what's up.

Oh, and did I mention I like buying tools?

 

[Wpolonavyguy]

Ya I was very close to buying smoke testing machine but I remember I mashed the vent hose raising gas tank after new fuel pump. Didn't see anything inspecting it till I plugged it back on. A tiny crack past O-ring pictures included.
Going to check junkyard for a replacement or break down & buy 80something $ after shipping costs.
Temporarily used hot glue outside connector & heated candle wax & poured inside to block air till ready to switch out.
Figured heat gun can soften wax when removing.

 

[Wpolonavyguy]

So that helped fix the fuel trim all over the place, but still have something small intermittent yet possible big issue.
Only trouble codes still show up are Ritch mix bank 1&2, transmission indicate drive with no drive ratio, & I'm hoping vaccume leak stuff resolved when I buy gas tank vent hose.
The reader I borrowed shows a category called other codes/ not trouble codes to set engine light... but looking at the list it's rediclieous, basically every sensor on the truck the ECU communicates with showing bad signals?
From voltage signals too low and too high, to resistance signals too low & too high?
So thinking it's the Alternator giving off too high of voltage Ecu can't figure balance. Or the ECU itself corroded inside itself & just not communicating how it should.
Any suggestions not sure any way to test ECU itself if just low crap capacity.
No dimming lights or appearant voltage issues battery & alternator seem pretty consistent.
Is there a regulator somewhere? I know fuses & large battery fuse, just can't figure out why computer thinks communicating with every system is bad.
New grounding and a new ground sensor on battery negative line.

 

[Wpolonavyguy]

Other codes some of the many.