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Torque Converter Failure P0894 - Transmission Running Hot 4L85e

Thanks! I hope my pics help someone else. Or at least gives some courage to do something like this. There wasn't too much info out there on the 8.1L and 4L85e. And prices/labor costs and lead times on everything are ridiculous right now. The only sketchy part so far has been removing the transfer case, i had to shoulder press it out since you have to pull back and then rotate the front down in order to clear the 2 cross members. And also after i got the trans unbolted, my jack wouldn't go low enough to get it out from under the truck. I had to raise my lift as high as it would go and snake the bellhousing out just behind my front tire. So maybe when the new one goes in, I won't use that wood under the jack and I'll ask a friend to give me a hand. Now just a waiting game for the new one to get here. About to place an order at RockAuto for the other parts I need. I order the Case Saver for the t-case too since it's a known problem and i have it out.

I just realized there was a bolt missing in the bellhousing on the right side. There should be 7 holding it to the engine but mine had 3 on the left, the 1 center, and 2 on the right.. But it looks like everything was factory, meaning it's never been out before so makes me wonder if it came like that from the factory.

For the trans cable, there's a little u-shaped clip you pull out (don't drop the clip). Then the very end just pops off the ball joint, I gently pried with a screw driver. Then press those 2 little ears in and the shifter cable comes right out.
 

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in the pictures it looks like the pan gasket. It doesn't look like the seal is leaking there is no oil between crank and the seal.. But I would replace it anyway..
 
Good news, it is just the oil pan gasket leaking! I cleaned it off with some brake clean and a rag this morning and just went out to check it. Sure enough, RMS is good, Oil pan gasket is leaking.

You guys gonna call me crazy if I don't change it? Or say "I told ya so" when the rear main starts leaking 15 days after i get the new trans in? :ROFLMAO:

If it ain't broke, don't fix it..
OR
While you're in there...

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but rear mains will really only leak when crank is spinning and engine running.

Like said above... they are known issue of leaking and you will be pretty close to having everything off you would need to change it.
Not expensive part.

Better safe than sorry?
 
Considering what is required to access the rear main seal, I think changing it while you can see it would be a good move.

When I had the rear main seal replaced on my EXT with the 6.0, I had the entire rear main seal plate and rear main seal replaced as an assembly.

The entire assembly is not very expensive.

The assembly kit also came with new bolts.

Just pop the old plate and seal off and pop the new assembly back on.

Testing beforehand with a UV leak detector showed the rear main seal and plate were both leaking oil.

I can tell you right now that when the transmission comes out of my Avalanche sometime in the future, the engine is also getting a new rear main seal.

That decision has already been made.
 
So here's my thought process. The 8.1L is a totally different design than the 6.0, 5.3, 4.8 etc. It doesnt have that plate like the SBC engines and also isnt necessarily prone to leaking. Alinment of the seal isnt related to a plate or the oil pan like the small blocks.

I definitely won't install this seal without the right tools. No block of wood or harbor freight universal seal driver. So this means about another $450. removal tool: Kent-Moore J-43320 and an install tool: Kent-Moore J-42849.

Cost aside, I just hate to potentially cause a problem when there currently isnt one. Maybe I'm just paranoid. Probably am paranoid. 😬

With that said, I already bought a $23 Fel-Pro RMS. Ordered last night. I know at 18yrs old and 205k miles it's time. I'll probably just change it and be done.

I'll post a pic of all the other parts i ordered last night once they get here. All kinds of "while I'm in there" stuff. :D

I appreciate all the feedback and comments!
 
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There's a guy on eBay that has both, the removal tool $71.00 and the install tool $308.. If you contact him and make an offer he may sell both at lower price like $275-$300 for both..
 
Yep that's the one i was eyeing. I Just asked him so let's see. I sell some stuff on eBay too and just gave a guy a deal on a set of lower control arms where i pressed in some new bushings for way less than anyone else and way less than I had them listed just because he asked. Maybe it'll come back my way.

Rock Auto shipped my order today. Gotta head to a supplier tomorrow and Thursday then supposed to camp at Table Rock State Park this weekend. May see if my Yukon will pull the camper while the Avalanche is down. Stay tuned.

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*edit* eBay guy said no. Basically he feels the price is right where it's at..

But some of my RA order came in today, still waiting on the other half. My transmission mount was completely shot..

Engine oil cooler line
Trans mount
Trans/T-case gasket
T-case 'case saver'
Exhaust gasket, clamp, studs
Trans distick seal
Trans oil line fitting x2
Rear main seal
Oil pan gasket seal
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Fel-Pro FTW!
 
The rest of my RA order came in and AAP called and said the transmission is ready to pick up. Time to get to work!

The 95 yukon did pretty good pulling the camper. I pulled in 3rd the whole way, averaged 45-60mph. Its about 45-55min from my house, about 40 miles. It was super hot going there and beatutiful coming back. I dont have a trans temp gauge but engine temp pretty much stayed the same coming back and only a tad higher on the way there when it was 95+ outside.

Yukon has the SBC 350, the year before the Vortec, so has the TBI. 4L60 trans and 3.73 gears with 6" RC lift, 2" BL, and 33x12.50 Mickey Thompsons. Did better than i expected. Makes me feel like the Avalanche should have no problem whatsoever once fixed.

Table Rock State Park is really nice if you're ever in the area, Salem/Pickens SC. Stay in the White Oak campground if you can.

(Ok enough non-avalanche related material :p)

Engine oil cooler line (other one)
Trans cooler lines x2
Transfer case fluid x2

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Haven't towed anything significant {nothing over 3500#, yet) with the AVY ('04 with a 4 spd) Of course not very long distance 100miles. I routinely pull just under 8K with my LWB 09 F150 w/ integrated brake controller and sway control, 450 mile trips each way, no drivability issues, never seen over 200 on the transmission temp. It did get a workout pulling in the mountains in PA a few years ago.. but it hacked it.
 
Transfer case: 1
Me: 0
It got me tonight. I wasted an hour and a half trying to get the case apart but couldn't get past this snap ring. I'll pick up some pliers tomorrow and try again. I forget the name of them but you need the spreader pliers that have a flat head on either side. Helps to have the right tool. All the needle nose pliers, screw drivers, and snap ring pliers I have, none worked like the right tool. Sometimes it doesn't go your way. 0620222054c.jpg0620222056.jpg0620222149.jpg0620222150.jpg
 
I couldn't wait. 5 min and I had it off. You have to kind of jiggle the case to get it off.

If you haven't done the case saver, you should. Sooner or later the pump will eat through the case. You can see the little tab was broken off already and some wear on the inside of the case already.

To be continued..

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I hope that you can reach with that plier. "They" do make some with interchangeable tips so you can use a 90° or 35° if needed.
I have several sets of snap ring pliers but no lock ring pliers. You could do it without them but you need an extra hand. The pliers just let you do it much easier and by yourself. But I got it off!
 
I couldn't wait. 5 min and I had it off. You have to kind of jiggle the case to get it off.

If you haven't done the case saver, you should. Sooner or later the pump will eat through the case. You can see the little tab was broken off already and some wear on the inside of the case already.

To be continued..
You're having too much fun! Looking good!
 
That TC was defiantly on its way to leaking..
 
Yes it would have leak in the near future for sure!

I just got it bolted back together. It went together much easier than it came apart. I also cleaned the magnet and the filter, they were nasty. I changed the o-rings on the sensors and the output seal since it looked easy and came with the kit. We're going camping again tomorrow so not much real work getting done til next week.
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I worked on the avalanche some last night after we got back from camping. I got the oil cooler lines off, transmission lines off, and oil pan off. How nasty! Each item had about 12 gallons of oil in it. So I basically rolled around in oil and cat litter all night.

Oil pan was a pain to get off because no clearance to the drag link, by only a few mm too. So i took the idler arm off, tie rod loose and the steering box loose and finally had enough clearance for the pan to clear the crossmember and oil pickup. I pretty much spent about 4 hours doing all that, then another hour washing all the oil and grime off my face and arms..

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And a few non-avalanche related pics. Lake Jocassee is really nice. We didn't even go to the public beach area because there are other nice areas to swim. I also took the jon boat even though everyone else was in pontoons, jet skis, ski boats, kayaks.. It was fun though. The ole '73 Johnson 6hp did well!

I cheated this time and put some stock size wheels on my Yukon. It was marginally better but not as big of a difference pulling the camper as i thought it would be. Sure does look funny though. I'm ready to get my tow vehicle back!

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I got another 2.5 hrs in today. Oil pan is back on with a new Fel-Pro gasket and RTV in the corners, front and back.

Also got the new Fel-Pro rear main seal installed with the Kent Moore tools (thanks Randy!) Super easy with the right tools. I would never attempt it without them. I aint gonna lie, I was a little nervous drilling that first screw through the old seal. But glad i got it changed, it was time. I also pressure washed the oil pan last night while i had it off since it was covered in gunk. I'm ready to get her back on the road.

I also realized while taking the tie rod off, I need new ones. Is Cognito worth the price? Or other suggestions? I normally go with Moog.

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