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Transmission Fluid And Filter Change

the old collar came off too but wont it still pick up fluid fine? the filter sits on the bottom of the pan right? when i pushed it up there it stayed.
 
I haven't posted on this forum since 2009!
Still have my AV tho', and getting ready to do a tranny filter change.

I came across this video on youtube.....

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6THHOWxyV6I

I also found this site that explains it.....

http://www.ehow.com/how_4519916_change-automatic-transmission-fluid-chevy.html


But this paragraph I found interesting in that explanation....

Disconnect the fluid line that links the transmission to the radiator by loosening the clamp with an adjustable wrench and then pulling on the line gently. The ATF will be hot, so be careful that you don't burn yourself. The transmission is attached to the dipstick well. Place the open end of this line into an empty container, such as an engine oil drain pan.


Start the engine. Make sure that you leave the emergency parking brake engaged. Watch the ATF line to see when the ATF stops flowing. Turn off the engine as soon as the flow of ATF stops. Reattach the line to the transmission.

Is this a good idea? Should you run the pumps dry? Does it empty the torque converter?
More importantly, has anybody tried this?
 
RIKrotorhead said:
But this paragraph I found interesting in that explanation....

Is this a good idea? Should you run the pumps dry? Does it empty the torque converter?
More importantly, has anybody tried this?

I certainly wouldn't think that running the transmission out of fluid is a good idea.

I use a similar method when I flush my transmission. First thing I do is to drain the transmission fluid out of the pan and then change the filter. I have a 2002 so I have a drain plug on my pan which makes the process a little bit less messy. I don't believe other years with the 4L60 transmission have a drain plug so you have to loosen some of the pan bolts and let the fluid drain that way which makes a big mess. After I change the filter and reinstall the pan, I refill the transmission to the full mark on the dip stick. Then I disconnect the line that comes from the transmission the the radiator and but an approximately 5' long hose on it with the other end in a bucket. Then I start the truck and let the transmission fluid run out into the bucket. While that is happening, I start feeding new fluid into the dip stick using a long funnel. The fluid coming out into the bucket is coming out at approximately the same rate that you can feed it into the transmission using the funnel. I keep doing this until the fluid coming out into the bucket is a nice cherry red color. Be sure that you do not overfill the transmission while you are doing this. It take approximately 12 pts of transmission fluid to completely flush it. I don't remember which line going to the pan I remove but I am pretty sure it is the one on the top of the radiator.

I only flush the transmission if the fluid is dark in color. If the fluid is still cherry red, a flush is not needed. Changing the fluid in the pan when you change the filter is sufficient if the fluid is still cherry red. Changing the fluid in the pan changes approximately 30% of the fluid since I normally can only get about 3-4 qts back in after draining the pan and changing the filter. I think that the total transmission capacity is around 11 qts including the torque converter.
 
Ok I know most ppl don't like reviving a thread this old but hey that is what the search button is for right?

I am going to change my trans fluid soon and after reading all the great information on this forum a thought occurred to me and I would like to get some opinions on it. 

My thought is:
1  get a 5 gal pail of transmission fluid (should be around $60-$80). 

2  Disconnect the trans lines going to the radiator or cooler. 

3  Attach pieces of hose the lines.

4  Put the suction side line into the pail of trans fluid and the return line into an empty 5 gal pail

5  Start the engine, when the 5 gal pail is almost empty shut it off.

6  replace trans lines, start the engine and check fluid level, add additional fluid as needed.

My thinking is that you've flushed 20 quarts of fluid through the trans and should be a relatively easy job?

Ok, hit me with opinions and experience.

 
Um, the fluid is pushed through the cooler not pulled, so there is no "suction side line".

The filter plugs directly into a port on the bottom of the pump.  There is no suction outside of the filter and pump.
 
Here is how I do it:

1. Change the transmission filter, then refill.
2. Pull off one of the lines going from the transmission to the radiator (I think it is the top line on the radiator)
3. Attach a long piece of hose to that line and put the other end in an empty bucket.
4. Start the truck and start pouring transmission fluid into the funnel as fast as it will take it while the old fluid is flowing into the bucket. If the fluid is burnt, keep this process going until the fluid coming out is bright red. If the fluid coming out is already bright red, continue until the have put in a total of about 14 qts (3.5gals)
5. Turn off truck, check fluid level. If fluid level happens to be too high, start truck again and let more fluid run into bucket, then turn off truck and check again. If fluid level is low, disconnect hose from transmission line, reconnect to radiator then top off fluid.

A few words of warning: don't fall behind on the fluid you are pouring in otherwise the fluid level will drop too low and you will burn your transmission up in no time. So have the tops of the transmission fluid bottles at least loosened if not off all together ahead of time.

Just saying that is the way I do it, I am not responsible for damage to your transmission if this does not work for you!

 
This thread was very helpful...  Well about a month ago I changed my transmission filter and fluid because I'd flushed it but never changed the filter and was coming up on 200,000 miles.  I spoke to a guy at Summit Racing who has an 07 EXT; he told me it was the same.  Understanding this I chose to purchase his recommended deep aluminum pan with a drainplug.  I thought it might help in the future.
:beating:
Thank God for having a lift at the Fort Lewis Auto Craft Center.  Well I get my pan bolts loose and just like it's stated above the shift linkage bracket is in the way.  I CANNOT get my hand in any viable position to loosen the T40s so I bent the bracket.  The pan comes off AFTER you pull the filter and it is a mess.  I get the gasket off and begin to work on the filter gasket up inside the transmission because, well, they sent me a new one so I must need to replace this one.  Hint:  DO NOT REMOVE THIS EVER!  :E:  You new filter will work just fine with the one that's been in there since it was born.  If you are brave enough to try to take this out be prepared to swear and yell and be so darn frustrated that even beer will not help.

I eventually manage to remove it and fit the new filter gasket.  I grab the pretty new deep pan (It's finned as well.) and attempt to fit it and realize the exhaust crossover is in the way.  I pop the hangers loose and it still will not fit.  I say some bad words and return to my OEM pan which is still sitting in drain catch.  I look at the filter because I hadn't yet and it is complete mush.  :9:  I clean the pan and get ready to strap the OEM back on but it won't seat.  Why?  Because the new filter is very slightly larger than OEM.  More bad words until a guy who works at the shop takes me to Auto Zone who luckily had the filter.  (y)  We get back and I get it all back together.  Eight hours and six quarts of Dex VI later it's running just fine.

The end.  :cool:
 
Hell of a story Ranger. I live in University Place, so P M me when you get a chance and you can tell me the story over a beer, my treat.  :cheers:
Happy Father's Day everyone!!
 
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