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Unbelievable problems with the brakes!

R

rockman101961

New Member
Joined
Jun 16, 2004
Messages
3
I did some searching here and didn't find much relating to the issues that I am experiencing, and certainly don't find anything that compares to the problem(s) I am dealing with. Please help if you can. I am new to the Avalanche (I bought my 2003 1500 Victory Red only 2 months ago!) and new to this forum. I bought it with 27,000 miles and it now has 31,000. Here's the situation in a nutshell; I have what I consider to be "hard" brakes and have had the "ABS" and "Brakes" lights on and off since I have owned it. Here is the list of what has been done since November of last year:
1). H2505-Module, (Electronic Brake and/or Traction Control) replaced twice!
2). H1220 Booster Assembly, replaced
3). N6600- Wiring/Connector replaced
4). H2820 Cable and Handle Assembly, Parking Brake Release replaced
5). Master Cylinder replaced
6). Front Rotors replaced
7). All 4 pads replaced
And finally, 3 reprogramming downloads!
And...My brakes still suck! What would you do?
:8:
 
What do you mean by "hard" exactly?

Hard to stop? The pedal feels hard?

You want the brakes to feel "softer"?
 
Hard as in, when you apply normal pressure that should stop the vehicle, the pedal doesn't depress much and there is no stopping power. A couple of times, I have had to sit up off my seat and put my weight into it, and still ended up in the middle of an intersection!!!
 
Sounds like a pinched brake line to me. Or, plugged line.
One more idea, siezed caliper piston. HTH
 
has the pedal feel changed since you bought it or is this the way it has been?

 
It has had poor brake Performance since I got it. It has improved some and the ABS lights no longer come on (they have now replaced the ignition switch, they said that was also causing the light to come on!), but they are still not right. The dealership wants the vehicle for another 2 or 3 days to try to get them "right". Someone please assure me that someday this will be worth the hassle!!!
 
Just a long shot but you may want to check to see if one or more of your brake calipers are hung up and dragging the brake pads abnormally on your rotors. It's fairly easy to check. Find a stretch of road where you can drive for 2-3 miles w/o having to brake. Pull over to the side of the road and get out of your AV and put your finger tips near each of your brake rotors. If any feel extremely hot, it's not normal. I had the same problem with an '88 Cutlass Supreme. Brakes weren't worth a crap and the dealership keep replacing pads, rotors, etc. One time after I'd just driven it home from the dealer I happened to walk around the car and put my hands down by the rotors. Both front rotors were throwing off the heat big time while the back two were cool enough to touch. Both front calipers were hung-up and excessively dragging the pad on the rotor. This was leading to pad glazing and brake fade which translated into a hard pedal and no stopping power.
 
Since it is under warranty and still has not been fixed right and still having the same brake problem that is very unsafe. I would enact the lemon law... and get a new one ;D
 
MOTOX6 said:
Since it is under warranty and still has not been fixed right and still having the same brake problem that is very unsafe. I would enact the lemon law... and get a new one ;D
Click to expand...

He bought it used, if you read the initial post.

Lemon law will not apply on a used vehicle purchase, regardless of warranty or not. Lemon law applies to initial purchaser only.
 
DougD said:
He bought it used, if you read the initial post.

Lemon law will not apply on a used vehicle purchase, regardless of warranty or not. Lemon law applies to initial purchaser only.
Click to expand...
Not so sure about that. Depends on state. Here in MA doesn't matter, new or used! Look into your state laws regarding this issue. Don't waste anytime, certain time limits apply. Do a search about "Lemon Laws". There is a ton of stuff, keep looking, it's there. I had to do this on my last car due to a finding on a web site that shows a vehicle's history per it's VIN #. I don't want to say which site, but I'm sure you know which one I'm talking about! It said my car was a lemon, which was news to me. Long story short, it was not a lemon, incorrect info from web site, but...
had it been and dealer didn't disclose it to me, problem was in more than three times for same problem and not fixed, lemon!!! I'm sure if you find local laws and show them to the dealer, they will make sure it's fixed the right way next time!!
 
I say the squeaky wheel gets the most grease!!!! :8: threaten lawsuit, call the news media, They have a segment where I live that attacks (with cameras) the people including dealerships if the victim is getting the run around!!! I had a S-10 that I used to haul dirt bikes in... The side rails started to crack. After thier feable attempts of welding and after calling the Fox news channel in my area, BINGO fixed in a jiffy (new bed in the S-10)!!! (y)
 
My (82) S10 had clutch chatter, 5 to 6 times in, modified release lever support, aftermarket clutch parts (at one time) broken pressure plate, then when the transmission turned to mush and I replaced it and new clutch parts @80K, I noticed that when I went to remove the ($5.60) pilot bushing from the crank, there was none! It didn't disappear, they just never put it in! :2: Mr. Goodwrench! :2:.
So, replacing everything and installing the bushing, wow! No chatter for the first time I owned it..but @ 80K miles. Works great still @ 133K.

So I'm not surprised at all with your brake delimma..
 
Did you see a "Reduced Brake Power" warning?

Certain versions of vacuum boosters had problems plugging up. If yours was built between June 13, 2002 and August 9, 2002, it may have the fault.

If so, have them refer to Document # 1022899.

Edit: This info was pulled for a 2003 vehicle; I guess they started to build them early that year ???
 
Was the P/S pump checked? (Valve for hydro assist.)

Was this done? :

Power Brake Booster Outlet Hose Replacement​

Removal Procedure

Notice

Do not start the vehicle with any power steering gear inlet or outlet hoses disconnected. When disconnected, plug or cap all openings of components. Failure to do so could result in contamination or loss of power steering fluid and damage to the system.

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1. Install a drain pan under the vehicle.
2. Remove the brake booster outlet hose (1) from the brake booster (2).
3. Remove the clamp retaining the brake booster outlet hose to the power steering pump.
4. Remove the brake booster outlet hose from the vehicle.

Installation Procedure

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Notice

The inlet and outlet hoses must not be twisted during installation. Do not bend or distort the inlet or outlet hoses to make installation easier. Failure to follow these procedures could result in component damage.

1. Route the hose in the same position the hose occupied prior to removal.
2. Install the brake booster outlet hose (1) to the brake booster (2).
3. Position the clamp at the end of the hose. Install the brake booster outlet hose to the power steering pump (4).
4. Position the clamp at the end of the hose. Remove the drain pan from under the vehicle.
5. Bleed the power steering system. Refer to Bleeding the Power Steering System .

Document ID# 651019
2003 Chevrolet Avalanche​
 

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If it is the hydro-boost, did they bleed it?

Next.....
 
I found an "SBA" fuse for ""supplemental Brake assist". Anyone seen it in an Av?
Maybe it's for large Kodiac trucks... The print didn't say.

If so, could it be ???

 
I'm with Rockman...although I haven't been down this bad of a road!!

I have had the rotors turned, pads replaced, master cylinder replaced, brake assist pump replaced...I have had a one time incident of "Reduced Brake Power" on the DIC.

If I had 5,000 I would replace rotors, pads and calipers all around with brembo's...CUZ THE OEM ONE'S SUCK!!

And I know it's not just mine, because I drove another '03 (mine is a 2003 Z-71 with 21,000) very similar and had at least as hard of time stopping as mine! Drove an '04...STOPPED ON A DIME!!

GM denies any changes from '03-'04...but sometime look under the hood...TOTALLY DIFFERENT MASTER CYLINDER!! And markedly better feel and stopping distance as I noticed! They claim the only change was removing the Brake Assist...which activates if you have no engine power...so you can still stop (I'm sceptical).

Let me know what you find out...I gave up on this one!!

R.J.
 
Hey guy's I'm new to the site. I've been reading all the comments and answers, I to am having break problems with my 2003 Chevy avalanche. I've done everything you guy's have done. new, abs,rotors, calipers break's, master cylinder, and booster. and my break's were still crap. at slow speed stops, on the freeway we all die. I've been dealing with this for a little over a year. so I decided to change the stereo, I unplugged the factory unit and installed an aftermarket stereo. I lost the key ding,and the radio staying on after you turn off the key. started the truck hit the gas truck took off like a bat out of hell and the break's stoped on a dime. so I did some research and it turns out that the factory stereo controls the, check engine light, reset oil light, and the the abs breaking system, it mite not set off a code or a light. So if you still have the factory stereo then that mite be your problem. I found this out by accident. simple way to find out is to just unplug your stereo and then test your truck. I hope this helps. I'm freaking excited. if you want to install a new stereo your going to need an adapter from crutch field.

Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android
 
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Tals avalanche said:
Hey guy's I'm new to the site. I've been reading all the comments and answers, I to....
Click to expand...

Once per thread is enough no need to put in every thread either.
Thanks for info
 
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